Intake flap motor replacement on 2.0T fsi
First of all part that You need and tools:
If You had intake flap motor (IFM) with number 06f-133-482 You need to replace it with the same part.. without any letter on the end of part number. I’ve made that mistake and had to send it back.
Tools:
Torx 27 socket
10mm socket
Extensions
Slim extension or screwdriver type tool
Phillips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver
Step1:
Remove windshield washer reservoir (one Phillips screw on top and there is a electrical connector on the bottom) and move on side
Step2:
Remove two connectors that are in the way to IFM, unscrew that silver metal holder with 10mm socket ( be careful not to drop that little nut !) Pic#2
Move aside all hoses and that metal holder.
Step3
With long extension unscrew first bolt from the bottom of engine bay
Step4
unscrew two other bolts with slim extention that You need to push thru those two metal pipes ( I’ve used that screwdriver type of tool)
AS SEEN ON PICTURE #2
Step5
remove that arm that moves intake flap with flat screwdriver and remove IFM .
Step6
Install new IFM and then push that Intake flap arm back on new IFM
Step7
reconnect everything back
Step8
Go to your friendly napa or autozone to clear the codes and enjoy ( if the cel will come back You will have to go to dealership to adapt the IFM – I did not have to)
I just replaced mines over the weekend. It doesn't appear that it resolved my issue. I'm still getting p2015 CEL code. How can you test it to make sure its working. The one i removed was 06f-133-482d i replaced it with 06f-133-482 according to the dealership when they input my VIN that was the correct part number.
yes cleared the codes. came back after i drove for a while.
well then maybe You need to go to dealership to adapt new motor to Your engine. That'll be around $115. like I said service guy at my dealer told me that I need to replace mine with exactly the same revision as the broken one
GL!
Hey, I just started getting the p2008 and p2015 codes a few days ago. I read a few places, including some of your old posts I believe about going to the dealer and getting the car reflashed. Did you do this before you decided to change the flap motor? I am just wanting to make sure it is the flap motor before I replace it, as I have seen some people say they switched it out and got the code again a few hours later. Also, did you buy the new motor online? If so, where did you buy it. Thanks for any help.
Just did this tonight, only took about 2 hours, but it was the biggest pain in the ass. There's no easy way to access any of the bolts, or the IFM arm in the rear (which does not go on easily either. Not really hard, but you just have to wiggle around a lot. Great writeup!
awesome DIY! just had the MIL light come on and flash that code, will def be doing this myself rather than goin to the dealership! Thanks for the thread
got one of the codes related to IFM, P0642. The ECU was flashed a few months ago, so I know I am on the latest software. Ordered the part from dealer, $195, will pick it up tomorrow to replace. will report back on the experience...
as promised, I am happy to report that I replaced the IFM. took about 1.5 hours... the hardest part was actually removing the motor. I mean, pulling it out from under all the hoses, wires and pipes. ideally, you want to remove the corrugated crankcase hose that connects to the PCV but you can work your way around it. also, undoing the top two torx bolts you can wiggle an extension between the two cooling pipes by actually pulling on the top one with one hand while sliding the extension between the pipes with the other. you won't damage it unless, of course, you are some sort of Hercules or something. in that case, take it easy on it. Torque spec for the three bolts that hold the IFM is 7 N-m or approximately 62 in-lb. good luck. any questions feel free to PM me.
well, I thought, I was out of the woods when I replaced the IFM but a different code popped up. in fact, I think it was there all along after I installed a new motor: 012599 - Intake manifold runner control: basic setting not completed, P3137. Funny thing is, when I try to run basic setting it errors out! I am wondering if the dealership sold me a wrong part. I had 06F 133 482B installed and the parts department sold me the one without a letter at the end. I am wondering if I need to get the letter coded one. I think, the latest is "E", so 06F 133 482E is what I need. ECS has it and I am sure I can order one from the dealer. I won't be able to return this one, I don't think but I can try, since I kept the original packaging... does anyone know for sure?
If your IFM has a letter on the end, you need the "E" revision. If your IFM has no letter on the end, then you need the same pn.
Sounds like you've got the wrong one in there..
Thanks for confirming this. The really strange part of this is that two dealerships I phoned, including the original one, claim that in the ETKA for my car's VIN it states that non-letter coded part needed! Basically, it says that for early production VINs, before August 2006 (which mine is) it requires 06F 133 482! For those August 2006 onwards, 06F 133 482E. So, I installed what they sold me relying on the system being correct and did not even look at the part number of the one I took out. I ordered the E revision IFM and will be installing it tomorrow. Since I have pretty good relationship with the dealership's parts department, they will take the original part in exchange once I get it out. I'll report back with the results. Oh, and the E revision part is much cheaper, like $150 as compared to $195 I paid for the other one.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but there isn't much harm if you have the codes come up to replace this part and you dont right? I know check engine light will come on, but as to adverse effects I havent heard of any really, is there truth to this?
I can only attest to the specific code that I have, which is 012599/P3137. The car is running but its cold start idle is a bit up and down, not even... Once it's warmed up no problems. I've been driving with the wrong motor for a month now. I have no CEL but the code is stored in the ECU and when I try to clear it it pops right back. I am sure there could be a problem long-term like the intake flaps might eventually wear prematurely or something. To add to that, I can't pass state inspection because of the code in the ECU. I got my replacement motor and will be putting it in tonight/tomorrow.
Happy to report that after replacing IFM with the correct one the basic setting ran successfully. Hopefully, this is the end of my IFM troubles. Just to reiterate, you really need to know what the motor part number is before you order one. As I learned dealership parts database might produce erroneous results. If you have IFM part number that ends with a letter you need to replace it with the part that end with a letter one! No letter code, replace it with the same as OP pointed it out. Also, the dealer wanted to replace it for $300 in labor. I refused and SA got all pissy with me. I did it yesterday and it took all of 30 minutes...
Last edited by illegitimus; 09-02-2010 at 10:56 AM.
Hey guys sorry to bring this up, but I have followed this DIY last night and got mine replaced.
It was a total pain in the ass to do this job, it too me and a good friend of mien about 1.5 hours in my garage while freezing my ass off.
Anyhow, i seen there were some questions about the part numbers, i would suggest for anyone that is about to replace the unit to call your Audi and ask them to look it up under your vin number!
I have noticed few things while driving to work this morning, the gas pedal has a new feel to it, the car pulls a lot better than it did before, I have also noticed a better gas milage, and smoothing shifting with easier rpm adjustment.
Thanks Once again for this DIY of how to replace it... there few other tricks that you will learn on the way while doing this job...
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Originally Posted by AWDTURBO
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