DIY: Intake Flap Motor Replacement

[remOOOO]

Intake flap motor replacement on 2.0T fsi
First of all part that You need and tools:
If You had intake flap motor (IFM) with number 06f-133-482 You need to replace it with the same part.. without any letter on the end of part number. I’ve made that mistake and had to send it back.
Tools:
Torx 27 socket
10mm socket
Extensions
Slim extension or screwdriver type tool
Phillips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver




Step1:
Remove windshield washer reservoir (one Phillips screw on top and there is a electrical connector on the bottom) and move on side

Step2:
Remove two connectors that are in the way to IFM, unscrew that silver metal holder with 10mm socket ( be careful not to drop that little nut !) Pic#2





Move aside all hoses and that metal holder.

Step3
With long extension unscrew first bolt from the bottom of engine bay



Step4
unscrew two other bolts with slim extention that You need to push thru those two metal pipes ( I’ve used that screwdriver type of tool)
AS SEEN ON PICTURE #2

Step5
remove that arm that moves intake flap with flat screwdriver and remove IFM .

Step6
Install new IFM and then push that Intake flap arm back on new IFM

Step7
reconnect everything back

Step8
Go to your friendly napa or autozone to clear the codes and enjoy ( if the cel will come back You will have to go to dealership to adapt the IFM – I did not have to)

Step9
Have a beer

[DnastyDnB]

how long did the whole procedure take? Did you have to remove the intake manifold? anymore pics.
thanks for the help. mine went bad.

[remOOOO]

like an hour? no I did not remove manifold. It's tight there but You can do it.
GL

[tmqv34]

wtf, I paid $600 to get it replaced. It took a day. I can't believe it lol.

[illegitimus]

Good DIY. it sounds pretty straightforward. Can you share the codes that warrant the IFM replacement? I would rep if I knew how.

[xcuter]

I just replaced mines over the weekend. It doesn't appear that it resolved my issue. I'm still getting p2015 CEL code. How can you test it to make sure its working. The one i removed was 06f-133-482d i replaced it with 06f-133-482 according to the dealership when they input my VIN that was the correct part number.

[AWDTURBO]

did you get the code cleared after the new one was in?

[xcuter]

did you get the code cleared after the new one was in?

yes cleared the codes. came back after i drove for a while.

[remOOOO]

yes cleared the codes. came back after i drove for a while.

well then maybe You need to go to dealership to adapt new motor to Your engine. That'll be around $115. like I said service guy at my dealer told me that I need to replace mine with exactly the same revision as the broken one
GL!

[bprater13]

Hey, I just started getting the p2008 and p2015 codes a few days ago. I read a few places, including some of your old posts I believe about going to the dealer and getting the car reflashed. Did you do this before you decided to change the flap motor? I am just wanting to make sure it is the flap motor before I replace it, as I have seen some people say they switched it out and got the code again a few hours later. Also, did you buy the new motor online? If so, where did you buy it. Thanks for any help.

[CleverA4Name]

Just did this tonight, only took about 2 hours, but it was the biggest pain in the ass. There's no easy way to access any of the bolts, or the IFM arm in the rear (which does not go on easily either. Not really hard, but you just have to wiggle around a lot. Great writeup!

[joeygriebel]

awesome DIY! just had the MIL light come on and flash that code, will def be doing this myself rather than goin to the dealership! Thanks for the thread

[illegitimus]

got one of the codes related to IFM, P0642. The ECU was flashed a few months ago, so I know I am on the latest software. Ordered the part from dealer, $195, will pick it up tomorrow to replace. will report back on the experience...

[illegitimus]

as promised, I am happy to report that I replaced the IFM. took about 1.5 hours... the hardest part was actually removing the motor. I mean, pulling it out from under all the hoses, wires and pipes. ideally, you want to remove the corrugated crankcase hose that connects to the PCV but you can work your way around it. also, undoing the top two torx bolts you can wiggle an extension between the two cooling pipes by actually pulling on the top one with one hand while sliding the extension between the pipes with the other. you won't damage it unless, of course, you are some sort of Hercules or something. in that case, take it easy on it. Torque spec for the three bolts that hold the IFM is 7 N-m or approximately 62 in-lb. good luck. any questions feel free to PM me.

[prospero]

just had this issue come up along with a coil pack issue (replaced).

after you did this yourself, how did you clear the CEL? is there any additional cost other than those of the parts?

dealer wanted ~$580 to fix

$200 part, that's about $380/hour

[illegitimus]

you would need to run adaptation using Vag-Com. Instructions here

[illegitimus]

well, I thought, I was out of the woods when I replaced the IFM but a different code popped up. in fact, I think it was there all along after I installed a new motor: 012599 - Intake manifold runner control: basic setting not completed, P3137. Funny thing is, when I try to run basic setting it errors out! I am wondering if the dealership sold me a wrong part. I had 06F 133 482B installed and the parts department sold me the one without a letter at the end. I am wondering if I need to get the letter coded one. I think, the latest is "E", so 06F 133 482E is what I need. ECS has it and I am sure I can order one from the dealer. I won't be able to return this one, I don't think but I can try, since I kept the original packaging... does anyone know for sure?

[Mike@PureMS]

If your IFM has a letter on the end, you need the "E" revision. If your IFM has no letter on the end, then you need the same pn.

Sounds like you've got the wrong one in there..

[illegitimus]

If your IFM has a letter on the end, you need the "E" revision. If your IFM has no letter on the end, then you need the same pn.

Sounds like you've got the wrong one in there..

Thanks for confirming this. The really strange part of this is that two dealerships I phoned, including the original one, claim that in the ETKA for my car's VIN it states that non-letter coded part needed! Basically, it says that for early production VINs, before August 2006 (which mine is) it requires 06F 133 482! For those August 2006 onwards, 06F 133 482E. So, I installed what they sold me relying on the system being correct and did not even look at the part number of the one I took out. I ordered the E revision IFM and will be installing it tomorrow. Since I have pretty good relationship with the dealership's parts department, they will take the original part in exchange once I get it out. I'll report back with the results. Oh, and the E revision part is much cheaper, like $150 as compared to $195 I paid for the other one.

[audifan22]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but there isn't much harm if you have the codes come up to replace this part and you dont right? I know check engine light will come on, but as to adverse effects I havent heard of any really, is there truth to this?

[illegitimus]

I can only attest to the specific code that I have, which is 012599/P3137. The car is running but its cold start idle is a bit up and down, not even... Once it's warmed up no problems. I've been driving with the wrong motor for a month now. I have no CEL but the code is stored in the ECU and when I try to clear it it pops right back. I am sure there could be a problem long-term like the intake flaps might eventually wear prematurely or something. To add to that, I can't pass state inspection because of the code in the ECU. I got my replacement motor and will be putting it in tonight/tomorrow.

[illegitimus]

Happy to report that after replacing IFM with the correct one the basic setting ran successfully. Hopefully, this is the end of my IFM troubles. Just to reiterate, you really need to know what the motor part number is before you order one. As I learned dealership parts database might produce erroneous results. If you have IFM part number that ends with a letter you need to replace it with the part that end with a letter one! No letter code, replace it with the same as OP pointed it out. Also, the dealer wanted to replace it for $300 in labor. I refused and SA got all pissy with me. I did it yesterday and it took all of 30 minutes...

[Jmaak]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but is there a way to read the part number without actually removing it first?
Thanks

[quickaudi07]

Hey guys sorry to bring this up, but I have followed this DIY last night and got mine replaced.

It was a total pain in the ass to do this job, it too me and a good friend of mien about 1.5 hours in my garage while freezing my ass off.
Anyhow, i seen there were some questions about the part numbers, i would suggest for anyone that is about to replace the unit to call your Audi and ask them to look it up under your vin number!

I have noticed few things while driving to work this morning, the gas pedal has a new feel to it, the car pulls a lot better than it did before, I have also noticed a better gas milage, and smoothing shifting with easier rpm adjustment.

Thanks Once again for this DIY of how to replace it... there few other tricks that you will learn on the way while doing this job...


Thanks aLot.

[Hungrypilot]

Is this the same as the IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control)?? My CEL says mine is stuck closed. I'm assuming this is the same part?

[AudiCVT]

Just did this tonight, only took about 2 hours, but it was the biggest pain in the ass. There's no easy way to access any of the bolts, or the IFM arm in the rear (which does not go on easily either. Not really hard, but you just have to wiggle around a lot. Great writeup!

This happened to me, the arm came out in the rear before I had the chance to get the arm out of the flap motor. The way I got the arm to go back in the rear was to put a long screwdriver through a crevice right by the HPFP. Then it was easy to snap the arm back in using leverage on the screwdriver. (2.0T motor)

I suggest disconnecting the arm by the motor flap first before unscrewing the bolts, but it may be hard if one has big hands...

[IdkJosh]

If anyone is confused about what part number you need its relatively easy to visually confirm. If you follow this DIY through step #2 (Removing the metal bracket that holds the electrical connectors) you can poke your head down and just barely make out the part number on the side of the IFM.

This saved me from removing my old one just to find out that I got the wrong part. Hopefully this helps!

Oh, and if anyone have the revised one (with the letter at the end) and needs the non-revised one, I'll trade!

[quickaudi07]

If anyone is confused about what part number you need its relatively easy to visually confirm. If you follow this DIY through step #2 (Removing the metal bracket that holds the electrical connectors) you can poke your head down and just barely make out the part number on the side of the IFM.

This saved me from removing my old one just to find out that I got the wrong part. Hopefully this helps!

Oh, and if anyone have the revised one (with the letter at the end) and needs the non-revised one, I'll trade!

Get these http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis...-c5-p-772.html

Thats what I have now and love it also you could replace snub mount for transmission.

http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis...d-p-13300.html


Great improvements!

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

[A4Amit]

Good write up, took me and a friend over 2 hours, but thats because its a super tight fit, not to mention I hadnt noticed the two guides that the motor sits on. Also I found that to get the arm off I reached in from the back of the engine compartment to hold the arm while applying contradicting pressure. To put it back on, I went in from the back of the engine compartment with a ratchet and a bit that was deep (not wider than the head of the arm) and just used the back of the ratchet to push the bit resting on the arm...and pop straight on.

Huge pain in the ass overall, but would have been impossible if it wasnt for this write up. Thanks a ton

[RoguesGambit]

Wait, I have to do this?

Guess I'm pointing this out to my teacher

[BenMTL]

Guys....I'm having a serious issue after following this guide My car is an early production date, so I bought a new VDO IMRC (06F133482, no E). I confirmed that is the right part because that is was what I already had on there when I removed the OEM factory part....I expected to have an error after replacement BUT I expected to be able to adapt it via VCDS but I can't My check engine light is now permanently on and I have a p3191 error code....I have vagcom but when I go and try to adapt the new IMRC, the adaption doesn't run and just always returns "ERROR".

What is worse, I've now just taken to my local Audi dealer and they can't adapt it either!! They use some other kind of software (OTIS/ODIS?) and it is the "official" Audi diagnostic software and it can't even communicate with my new VDO IMRC....Even more worse, they tried putting in back my original OEM part back in and can't adapt it either!!!

Do I now have this permanent error code? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...9/P3193/012691

$50 USD PAYPAL BOUNTY TO ANY INFORMATION LEADING TO THIS RESOLUTION (SERIOUSLY).

[BenMTL]

Update....After 20 days of leaving my car at the only local Audi dealer, I ultimately had to pay $690 USD

New OEM IMRC, several hours of diagnostic, replacement etc etc....Cost me a fortune but I was never so happy to pay the dealership so much, just to remove this 1 error code

I would highly recommend avoid doing this yourself, I'm not the only one that had this problem and couldn't ultimately adapt the part even with a full version of VCDS.

[Rodralex3]

So once I install the new IFM, is it okay to drive it to audi to get it adapted? Or will I /should it get it towed?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

[BenMTL]

So once I install the new IFM, is it okay to drive it to audi to get it adapted? Or will I /should it get it towed?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

Start it and see...If it runs rough, don't drive it and get it towed. Mine ran OK (just slightly more rough idle) so I drive it.

Beware however, if you bought and install the part yourself, maybe the dealership will not want to just do the adaption part.

That is why I recommend to everyone to get OEM part via VIN from them, install from them, and adaption from them. Only way you can guarantee no error codes, warranty, etc

Most things I do myself, but this I won't anymore...