Throttle Body Alignment

[40valve]

I was having some issues with the throttle where it was not responsive enough or sometimes not at all in situations where I would be rolling down the hill and I think I will be stopping so I would just clutch in and roll in neutral but then the traffic clears so when I try to rev-match to 2nd or 3rd depending on speed the throttle is completely useless and it does nothing until I hit it pretty hard and almost to the floor 2-3 time and then the RPM's will start to go up.

Doing TBA will clear this issue. So just FYI is you are experiencing the same, TBA will fix the issue.

Drive-by-Wire (DBW) Engines using KWP-2000 or CAN

(These are engines WITHOUT a physical cable between the accelerator and the throttle. Check to see if the engine speaks KWP-2000 or CAN by looking in the top left of the Open Controller Screen. An example of a KWP-2000 engine controller is the 2002+ B6 Audi A4 1.8T. Some examples of CAN engine controllers are the Mk5 Golf 2.0T FSI)

Turn the key on but do not start the car.

* [Select]
* [01 - Engine]
* [Basic Settings - 04]
* Group 060
* [Go!]

It should say "Basic Settings: OFF" on the top of your screen.

* Click [ON/OFF/Next] to turn on Basic Settings.

It should now say "Basic Settings: ON" on the top of your screen. Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switched basic settings on. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.

* Click [ON/OFF/Next] to turn off Basic Settings.

It should now say "Basic Settings: OFF" on the top of your screen

* Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/...Alignment_(TBA)

[jaybquick@JHM]

Thanks for sharing.

Now for the poor mans way.
I have also found that just unhooking the battery for a couple minutes, then hook it back up. Then turn the key to the run position without starting the car and let it sit for one minute. Then start her up.

If you leave the hood up and listen near the throttle body at the rear of the motor once you turn the key on you will hear it do this.


We do it this way when we have done a motor pull since the battery had already been disconnected and we are usually too greasy for the laptop.

[40valve]

Forgot to mention that. I figured TBA is general knowledge but I have not seen anyone else mention the issue I was having so figured if anyone else is having the same problem this might help.

[cabracco85]

Thanks for sharing.

Now for the poor mans way.
I have also found that just unhooking the battery for a couple minutes, then hook it back up. Then turn the key to the run position without starting the car and let it sit for one minute. Then start her up.

If you leave the hood up and listen near the throttle body at the rear of the motor once you turn the key on you will hear it do this.


We do it this way when we have done a motor pull since the battery had already been disconnected and we are usually too greasy for the laptop.

Was gunna mention that way too, but you beat me to it.

[mad70sx]

Thanks for sharing.

Now for the poor mans way.
I have also found that just unhooking the battery for a couple minutes, then hook it back up. Then turn the key to the run position without starting the car and let it sit for one minute. Then start her up.

If you leave the hood up and listen near the throttle body at the rear of the motor once you turn the key on you will hear it do this.


We do it this way when we have done a motor pull since the battery had already been disconnected and we are usually too greasy for the laptop.

I'd like to try this! Is ir really that simple? Is there anything else I need to know?

[Celtic]

Thanks for sharing.

Now for the poor mans way.
I have also found that just unhooking the battery for a couple minutes, then hook it back up. Then turn the key to the run position without starting the car and let it sit for one minute. Then start her up.

If you leave the hood up and listen near the throttle body at the rear of the motor once you turn the key on you will hear it do this.


We do it this way when we have done a motor pull since the battery had already been disconnected and we are usually too greasy for the laptop.

That's interesting. I have read that the following procedure should/would work:

1. Turn ignition on, but don't start the engine.
2. Step on the gas and hold the pedal to the floor for 5 secs
3. Turn the ignition off but don't remove the key, release the gas pedal
4. Wait for about 2 mins
5. Done.

I have done this multiple times and it has worked. I was also able to hear some noises and clicks during the 2 mins, so something was doing something.
My question is: Does that do the same as the steps you posted?


I find myself repeating the procedure every two or three weeks to reduce the throttle delay that keeps creeping up on me. This is really one of the few gripes I have with the car. I wish I could get the computer to stop analyzing and adjusting and just do what he's asked to do right away instead of deliberating first, if I really meant it when I stepped on the gas.
Is there nothing one can do other than getting a chip or a new Audi with drive select?
I know the answer is probably no ...

[jaybquick@JHM]

I'd like to try this! Is ir really that simple? Is there anything else I need to know?

Simple as that. Except if you unhook the battery long enough you may reset your clock and radio. There are fuses you can pull to the ECU as well but like I said before we usually do this on jobs when the battery was unhooked already.

That's interesting. I have read that the following procedure should/would work:

1. Turn ignition on, but don't start the engine.
2. Step on the gas and hold the pedal to the floor for 5 secs
3. Turn the ignition off but don't remove the key, release the gas pedal
4. Wait for about 2 mins
5. Done.

I have done this multiple times and it has worked. I was also able to hear some noises and clicks during the 2 mins, so something was doing something.
My question is: Does that do the same as the steps you posted?


I find myself repeating the procedure every two or three weeks to reduce the throttle delay that keeps creeping up on me. This is really one of the few gripes I have with the car. I wish I could get the computer to stop analyzing and adjusting and just do what he's asked to do right away instead of deliberating first, if I really meant it when I stepped on the gas.
Is there nothing one can do other than getting a chip or a new Audi with drive select?
I know the answer is probably no ...

That procedure works too. There are fuses you can pull to the ECU as well but like I said before we usually do this on jobs when the battery was unhooked already.

Yeah they learn too well sometimes and will slow down. We haven't had this complaint with our tuning yet.

[40valve]

Yeah they learn too well sometimes and will slow down. We haven't had this complaint with our tuning yet.

is it possible to have it turned off with a tune? That would be a good enough reason to wipe out APR.

[jaybquick@JHM]

is it possible to have it turned off with a tune? That would be a good enough reason to wipe out APR.

This is probably from the torque limitations left in most tunes (the computer will limit how much power can be made based on what it should be). We turn all of the torque limitatinos off and that is all that can be done for this problem. So this is why we haven't had such complaints.