USP Front Lip Conversion: Fabrication & Fitment (Lots of pics)

[A4TUNE]

What's up guys? Just finished fabricating my stock bumper to fit the USP front lip.

I followed Matt Devo's (big thanks!) DIY writeup and just kept trimming very little until I reached perfect fitment. I don't think I trimmed as much as Matt did on his DIY but his instructions and pics helped a great deal with the fabrication.

I actually expected the job to be a lot harder than it was, really I only trimmed up the fog light areas and cut out a few center pieces. I was able to use a few of the original tabs as well so it fits correctly. One thing I recommend is trimming a very little bit then test fitting the front lip after each altercation, this helped me know what I needed to trim and how much needed to be shaved off.

Next on my list will be painting both front pieces, the lowers, and the rear. I will then secure the two front pieces together with screws, zip ties, and epoxy as cleanly as possible then reinstall each piece on my car. Also will be picking up the USP left, right, and center grilles shortly.

I'm posting these pics on here so anyone who is looking to do the conversion can have another source of reference when doing the fabricating. So here you go, hope this helps. Also if anyone has any questions about the install just post up and I'll try to help as best I can.

















And the mess haha, just to give you an idea of how much was trimmed:

[F16HTON]

Keep these threads coming!!! I am excited to see all of the DIY USP posts Friday I have a meeting with Audi to try to negotiate 5% more off of bumper parts. If I am successful the savings gets passed on to you guys.

[A4TUNE]

Greg I'm going to be needing those grilles soon, if you can give me a good price I will definitely pick them up from you.

[Old No.7]

Looking good! Good feeling to get this project done huh?

[akademiks120]

i need to do this sometime soon......

[A4TUNE]

Damnit I just realized I am going to need to trim the two center supports off so my FMIC can fit. I wonder how sturdy this is going to be now.. anyone got any ideas on how to support it otherwise?

[Allwheel Driver]

If you trim a little more of the front part of the upright supports, you can get it to snap into the factory holes. The tabs line up, you just need to give it room to snap in. Mine is attached there and it's holding very well.

(7th picture, the right piece on the upper)

[A4ringedONE8T]

Im glad I just bought mine like that

[akaEsCo01]

Im glad I just bought mine like that

Same here doesn't look like much work but I wouldn't want to do it

[RLB6]

Damnit I just realized I am going to need to trim the two center supports off so my FMIC can fit. I wonder how sturdy this is going to be now.. anyone got any ideas on how to support it otherwise?

I was hoping I didn't have to do that. Let me know if you need to do any triming of the lower because of the ER FMIC. You're the only one with the same FMIC and doing the same conversion. So, you're my only DIY option

[yioryo nyc]

does the color match the rest of the unpainted lowers? If not is it noticably different? I have a silver car with gunmetal wheel and really want to do the USP mod but do not want to paint my lowers.

[Allwheel Driver]

Damnit I just realized I am going to need to trim the two center supports off so my FMIC can fit. I wonder how sturdy this is going to be now.. anyone got any ideas on how to support it otherwise?

It should still be ok.
Those center pieces don't really do anything. You can put a screw through them like Matt did, but if they're gone, it will still be attached pretty well.

[F16HTON]

does the color match the rest of the unpainted lowers? If not is it noticably different? I have a silver car with gunmetal wheel and really want to do the USP mod but do not want to paint my lowers.

Perfect match for the unpainted lowers

[SKIDMRK]

Perfect match for the unpainted lowers

au contraire. The USP primer finish is close, but no where near a perfect match. Keep in mind that it is primer and not a "finish." IIRC, there is a paint code for the lower gray. I've never ordered it, but www.paintscratch.com lists it as LV7W.

Mine pre-paint to show the color difference.

[AudBoost]

Im glad I just bought mine like that

Hahahaha! I was thinking the same!!

[DELUX]

So how much can the USP bumper bench press?

It looks great, can't wait to see it when it's all done! Your car is gonna have the looks now to match all that power under the hood

[int2str]

How do the two pieces actually attach?
How confident are you that the connection will hold up a minor "speed bump scrape" ?

[deephouse]

Looks good, i likey.


stuck with my Kerscher though.... LOL.

[A4TUNE]

Looking good! Good feeling to get this project done huh?

Hell yeah, I've been wanting to do the conversion forever, just never got around to it. Was a whole lot easier than I thought it'd be.

If you trim a little more of the front part of the upright supports, you can get it to snap into the factory holes. The tabs line up, you just need to give it room to snap in. Mine is attached there and it's holding very well.

(7th picture, the right piece on the upper)

I started sanding down the top of that piece as your can see, but I thought if I kept going it would be it less sturdy. I see what your saying though, there's about a 1/4" space between the tabs and the holes that I'll get around to fixing today. You don't have a pic of how much you trimmed from there do you?

I was hoping I didn't have to do that. Let me know if you need to do any triming of the lower because of the ER FMIC. You're the only one with the same FMIC and doing the same conversion. So, you're my only DIY option

Yeah I totally didn't realize it until I was done last night. I know I'm going to have to cut those two center pieces out but i was thinking i could move them on the left and right near the fogs if theres room and just attach with screws. I might try test fitting it on my car today, I'll let you know how it goes and I'll take some more pics.

does the color match the rest of the unpainted lowers? If not is it noticably different? I have a silver car with gunmetal wheel and really want to do the USP mod but do not want to paint my lowers.

It is actually not the same color, the lip is a little bit lighter gray than the rest of the lowers. I was thinking if it was the same color I might just drive around with it unpainted for a while but no way now that I see its different than the rest.

au contraire. The USP primer finish is close, but no where near a perfect match. Keep in mind that it is primer and not a "finish." IIRC, there is a paint code for the lower gray. I've never ordered it, but www.paintscratch.com lists it as LV7W.

Mine pre-paint to show the color difference.

Looks like in the pics you kept those two center beams with a FMIC as well. How was the fitment? I thought I'd need to cut those off, seems like they'd be in the way?

So how much can the USP bumper bench press?

It looks great, can't wait to see it when it's all done! Your car is gonna have the looks now to match all that power under the hood

Hahahaha I put those weights in the pic just so people would think I'm tough. JK I didn't bother moving anything cause I just took some quick referance pics.

Are you going to waterfest this year? I think I should have everything painted and installed by then. We'll have to meet up.

How do the two pieces actually attach?
How confident are you that the connection will hold up a minor "speed bump scrape" ?

I was able to use a few of the original tabs (probably about 8). I will be also securing the two pieces together with small black screws, zip ties, and a whole lot of epoxy, none of which will be noticeable with the grilles on of course. I think it's going to hold up well, if not looks like I'm going back to OEM base model lip .

[F16HTON]

The grey is the same color, it is not a primer, it is the factory GRU color (which means grey) it will darken up within a day or two, the doorblades are the same as well.

[SKIDMRK]

The grey is the same color, it is not a primer, it is the factory GRU color (which means grey) it will darken up within a day or two, the doorblades are the same as well.

Mine was unpainted for a couple of months before it was painted. it did not darken up. Also, it IS a primer as it is not sealed. You can tell as any road "chemicals" that a can encounters during a rain squall will leave a greasy spot that will soak into the primer untill it is washed. not just roll off like if it was a properly finished item. GRU is the factory code for PRIMER. I've seen items with the GRU code come in many different colors of primer. Not to be an ass, but please don't mislead people..............

[F16HTON]

Not to be an ass but I have had all of the parts in my hand and they are the same color when they are new...door blades, front spoiler (both USP and regular), the rear lower spoiler from the A4 and S4 rear bumper (yes the center section is the same material as the unpainted lowers).

They all blend together over time.

[SKIDMRK]

think what you want.

Primer parts end in GRU,

Factory unpainted lower parts end in 7DL

I've also had them all in my hands...............

the normal front spoiler and door blades are available in GRU and 7DL. They would be differences in gray as one would be gray primer and the other would be the correct gray unpainted lower finish. I'm done. Carry on. Sorry to ruin this thread. There's the evidence, people can do with it what they want. Have a good day!

[Allwheel Driver]

I started sanding down the top of that piece as your can see, but I thought if I kept going it would be it less sturdy. I see what your saying though, there's about a 1/4" space between the tabs and the holes that I'll get around to fixing today. You don't have a pic of how much you trimmed from there do you?

No, I don't have a pic.
I trimmed it down until it fit, you can see where you need to remove some plastic. Just trim until it snaps in. It holds really well once it is snapped in.

[SKIDMRK]

Looks like in the pics you kept those two center beams with a FMIC as well. How was the fitment? I thought I'd need to cut those off, seems like they'd be in the way?

The little bit of trimming i did on the center bars was from when i still had the factory lower on there. I did not have to do any additional trimming with the USP lower to clear the AWE FMIC.

[A4TUNE]

No, I don't have a pic.
I trimmed it down until it fit, you can see where you need to remove some plastic. Just trim until it snaps in. It holds really well once it is snapped in.

Only thing is I feel like if I keep trimming down the two supports they won't line up flush with the upper cover. I just went out a trimmed some more, they still don't lock in but its real close. I just don't want them to not be flush if I trim too much. I'll probably trim a bit more away tonight after work and see how it looks, I just don't want to compromise the durability & it sitting flush for a couple tabs. We'll see.

Also should I paint the parts first, then secure them together, or vice versa? I really want to see how it looks on my car and most importantly if it all clears the FMIC. I don't want to be trimming more after its painted. I suppose I could use blue painters tape to hold the pieces together and test fit it, make sure everything is good then go get it painted.

oh btw I'm doing this conversion on a spare bumper I have, that's why I am not sure of the fitment with the FMIC yet.

[F16HTON]

I have an idea I am goint to try tonight when I get home...

I have a new USP upper bumper for my car I have not installed. I am goint to take the support piece out of it and see if there is a part number on it. This may make the DIY lower install even more of a breeze than it already is.

[DELUX]

Greg, have you installed the USP lip on your car yet?

[A4TUNE]

So what do you guys suggest; securing the two pieces together and then painting them or painting the two pieces then securing them? People who did the USP conversion as well, input would be much appreciated.

[Old No.7]

I would do all your trimming and test fitting until you are satisfied, then paint the two halves seperately. Let the paint cure for at least a day after it has been painted to avoid any finger prints. With a little bit of caution, secure the two back together.

[A4TUNE]

thinking about getting the two front pieces molded together on the sides when I get them painted. we'll see.. Anyways would it cost a lot more to get them molded together?

[|FYASKO|]

I know this is a dead thread...but a very helpful one Anyway, what did you or anyone else that has any info, use to trim away the bumper? I'm looking to do this DIY and have searched a lot here and on AW. Is this is difficult DIY? Thanks !

[B6Lovin]

...if you read the DIY's for this it says to use a dremmel.

if you don't have one, get one. it WILL save your life one day.

[617 Bones]

^^^
What he said!

I used a Dremel ($50) with a Rotozip Side Cutting Bit ($2.00)

[norcatalyst126]

So, how are you guys securing the two together without visible screws and whatever else? Hella zip ties and epoxy?

[A4TUNE]

I think epoxy alone should do the trick pretty well. get some tough shit. I would then drill holes behind the grilles so it can't be seen and either zip tie or screws. If you still have several tabs intact that should be plenty hold with the tabs, epoxy, and/or screws.

[nitelyfe]

^^^
What he said!

I used a Dremel ($50) with a Rotozip Side Cutting Bit ($2.00)

The sound of 12000rpms when you need em WHHHHEEEEEEEEE!!!... priceless

[nitelyfe]

Hey so, I'm dub dub searching for the part number of just the bottom half of the UPS front and can't really find it. I know I can get it from the stealership but, where did yall get yours if not from the stealership?

I just yanked my bottom half front in a parking lot so I need to go shopping and this is one of the dopest mods I've seen for our bsixers.

[617 Bones]

Hey so, I'm dub dub searching for the part number of just the bottom half of the UPS front and can't really find it.

Lower spoiler - V8E0 807 110 B GRU
Fog light grill - V8E0 807 682 C 01C
Fog light grill - V8E0 807 681 C 01C
Center Grill - 8E0 807 647 D 01C

[617 Bones]

The sound of 12000rpms when you need em WHHHHEEEEEEEEE!!!... priceless

My Dremel was kickin' it at 25,000 for most of the DIY and redlines at 35,000!!