Crank no start (b5s4 ruined my life)

[Slo1mola]

Here's yet another crank no start thread but this one has had me stumped for a few weeks. About a month ago I put my motor in after installing k04s, rs4 clutch, and all the other stage 3 necessities. Once everything was all connected, the car started right up on the first crank, there were some misfires but the car started. Unfortunately though, I had used a coolant washer on an oil feed banjo bolt to my drivers side turbo which was leaking tons of oil.

I pulled the motor back out and replaced the washer with the new correct washer. I put the motor back in, hooking everything back up, and the car would crank but not start. I went through every connector on the harness and confirmed everything was plugged in. I then replaced by (brand new) spark plugs, no start. My starter got fried and I replaced it with a new one.

I replaced the crank position sensor, but the female end of the connector came off the wire. I was able to hardwire the 3 wires to the wires to the pins of the cps connector (all in the right order), and confirm that two were getting voltage, and the ground had continuity. The car still wont start.

I was not able to properly test voltage from the coil pack, but I read some voltage (when touching one prong to ground and one prong to the outer metal casing of the coil pack) while the car was cranking. I am fairly new to electrical diag, but this has me fully stumped.

Does anyone have any advice before I take this to my old shop? I am most confused because the car was starting fine when I initially put the motor in.

[Bigspoolys4]

Seeing you pulled the motor out twice. Double check all your grounds and connectors on ecu
If you have spark. Check for fuel. If you have vcds check if your getting rpm signal.other than that just check basics.

[Silverex]

Make sure ground on passenger side frame rail to motor mount bracket is hooked up, all grounds behind coolant tank and if still running stock coils/ICMs make sure grounds are hooked up on the coolant pipe behind engine.

Easy way to check for spark is to leave a plug in a coil pack and hold it close to a metal part on chassis.

[aysix]

When you put the key to accessory does the check engine light illuminate? Does your OBD read? Make sure that there's no issue communicating with the ECU. Did you change or modify any timing components when the engine was out?

It's been a while for me but I think you can also check to see if you're getting RPM with a scan tool. This would verify that your crank position sensor is reading.

[Slo1mola]

Thanks for the advice everyone, I have confirmed all my grounds are connected (frame rail and false firewall behind coolant res). I'll definitely try the plug in coil pack trick, but last time i looked for spark in a plug I could not see any. I have not touched any timing components and have confirmed my timing is under tension.

When in accessory mode my CEL does illuminate and I can read codes. I will try to read RPM as well when I get home. I am completely sure there is no spark because I have confirmed I am getting fuel.

[Silverex]

Thanks for the advice everyone, I have confirmed all my grounds are connected (frame rail and false firewall behind coolant res). I'll definitely try the plug in coil pack trick, but last time i looked for spark in a plug I could not see any. I have not touched any timing components and have confirmed my timing is under tension.

When in accessory mode my CEL does illuminate and I can read codes. I will try to read RPM as well when I get home. I am completely sure there is no spark because I have confirmed I am getting fuel.

FYI: Just confirming there’s fuel pressure at rail isn’t good enough, if that’s all you did. Need a noid light to make sure injectors are firing.

[Slo1mola]

Edit: I didnt check all my fuses, fuse #29 was blown. I replaced it and the car started right up.