Help with seating CV axle into knuckle

[CanadianWeasel]

I had to replace the knuckle on my 2014, driver/rear.

I'm having difficulty in seating the CV joint into the new knuckle, so I'm out here searching for suggestions. I've watched videos, but they're not entirely helpful as. 1> it works splendidly for them. 2> they have male axle ends, so that involves a nut whereas the Q5 it's a bolt.

I've pushed, pulled, prodded and so far, nothing. I'm considering finding a longer matching bolt and see if I can pull it in.

Any feasible suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

[Audibot]

If it's partially in, can't you use the bolt to suck it in the rest of the way? The splines will prevent it from rotating and will allow the axial motion to seat it.

Try seating it with one hand and tapping the side of the knuckle with a hammer. I have had to rock mine back and forth on occasions to get to seat. In the worst times, I have had to disconnect the upper CAs to get enough leverage on the knuckle.

[CanadianWeasel]

If it's partially in, can't you use the bolt to suck it in the rest of the way? The splines will prevent it from rotating and will allow the axial motion to seat it.

Try seating it with one hand and tapping the side of the knuckle with a hammer. I have had to rock mine back and forth on occasions to get to seat. In the worst times, I have had to disconnect the upper CAs to get enough leverage on the knuckle.

I've tried using the bolt, but it doesn't quite reach enough to start to thread, unfortunately. I haven't considered hammering it from the cv side, I'll see if I can work it out tomorrow. I did try wrapping a strap around the CV and pulling it, but that didn't work.

[Audibot]

If it's connected to the transmission output shaft, I would disconnect that to get it back in and then connect back to the trans. That has been easier in my experience. Do not actually hammer the CV itself--I suggested tapping the KNUCKLE, and not heavily.

Just going to ask:

1. Do you have the right bolt? Heck, I got some bolts from Audi directly for my engine mounts and they were STILL wrong.
2. If you had to replace the knuckle because of impact damage, it's possible your axle was damaged/compressed in and so it won't come back out again.
3. Do you have any pictures we can use to help?

[CanadianWeasel]

If it's connected to the transmission output shaft, I would disconnect that to get it back in and then connect back to the trans. That has been easier in my experience. Do not actually hammer the CV itself--I suggested tapping the KNUCKLE, and not heavily.

Just going to ask:

1. Do you have the right bolt? Heck, I got some bolts from Audi directly for my engine mounts and they were STILL wrong.
2. If you had to replace the knuckle because of impact damage, it's possible your axle was damaged/compressed in and so it won't come back out again.
3. Do you have any pictures we can use to help?

I have the original bolt, plus two others. As it's recommended to replace after removal. The bolt still fits and tightens, without the knuckle.

No damage. I had sheared off a caliper bracket bolt. Even attempting to drill it out would not work. I'm not sure how it got fused. It's weird. It's still in there. Too much damage has occurred in trying to figure out how to get the bolt body out of there, so I gave up on it.

I got the new knuckle from a donor vehicle, it was attached to the CV of that vehicle. Removing it from the donor vehicle it didn't slide off well. So, it seems to be a pattern, it's on there tight. When I took off the old knuckle, I had to use a gear puller to push it out. I'm considering taking the hub off the old one to see how easy it should be slipping on. Inspection indicates no damage to the spindles or the receiver of said spindles. I ran a softer steel brush over both parts, then used some PB on it. Connecting the two parts is right at that point where I can't get close enough to see without my glasses, but not far enough to focus with my glasses on.

I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow.

Finding a bolt to pull it through might require me to hunt. According to the googles, it's a M16x1.5x72mm. I would hazard to guess that an 80mm would be sufficient. A longer one would be better since it will be just used as a tool.

[Smac770]

The axle should not be that hard to slide in and out of the wheel hub. Possibly the hub is not fully round, or excessively corroded. You could remove the wheel bearing with hub still in place from your old spindle and mount it to the new spindle. To take the old hub off the replacement spindle, you'll end up needing to replace the bearing anyway. Yeah, got a set of 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 glasses in a pouch when I go to work on the car. Never know which power I'll need at any moment. Old sucks.

[CanadianWeasel]

I managed to get the CV joint seated. After going to several places, I was able to pick up a longer bolt. Fastenal had what I wanted, but they said they couldn't sell it to me because I wasn't a business.* grumble*. I got one at another place.

I threaded it into the CV joint, then put the knuckle over it. I cut a washer to fit over the bolt and ratcheted it through. It was snug, but there was little resistance.

Now, due to poor planning, I'll have to order some additional hardware to get the other bolts in place for the arms, etc. I believe they are supposed to be replaced, but their shape is such that it's prudent regardless.

I do have a knack for turning what should be a simple procedure into a rather lengthy process. I know I might get the "Did you save anything but doing it yourself?". Well, no, I guess I didn't, but things going sideways wasn't part of the plan; if it had worked out correctly, I'd have been done long ago. Nothing is a total loss if you get to learn from the experience, and I did learn how to do things I normally wouldn't do.