2011 B8 2.0 dereded reduced oil pressure at idle. P164d00

[09A6]

I know this has been covered a million times and I've read A LOT of those forums, but I'm still having an issue. 2011 2.0 after idling for about a half hour I get the low oil pressure light. I use mobil one 0w40 and the oil has about 1 hour run time. I pulled brown pressure switch and installed gauge. Cold start at idle, the oil pump pressure ramps up to 40 psi, then after a few minutes it comes down to 25 psi. As the engine is idling the pressure does come down slowly as the engine warms up. By the time engine is at 212°f the oil pressure gauge shows 11 psi. I thought the cooling fan would have come on but it never did. Now sure what temperature it's supposed to turn on. It takes almost a half hour to get to the 11 psi, it's not right away. I've ruled out both switches (via gauge readings)and control valve n428 because at 3500 rpm the two stage oil pump jumps up to high flow, 58 psi. So oil pump is working and switches are reading correct. My oil cap is hard to pull off when engine is running, so I checked the vacuum at the dipstick and had 1.5-2.0 in hg. I took pcv diagram out and it wasn't cracked or torn. I also did timing chain, pistons, rod and main bearings recently and at that time removed the cam bridge screen. Engine runs perfect, idles smooth, no noise and the only code is p164d00. Anyone have ideas, I'd appreciate it.

[Shane Horning]

I know this has been covered a million times and I've read A LOT of those forums, but I'm still having an issue. 2011 2.0 after idling for about a half hour I get the low oil pressure light. I use mobil one 0w40 and the oil has about 1 hour run time. I pulled brown pressure switch and installed gauge. Cold start at idle, the oil pump pressure ramps up to 40 psi, then after a few minutes it comes down to 25 psi. As the engine is idling the pressure does come down slowly as the engine warms up. By the time engine is at 212°f the oil pressure gauge shows 11 psi. I thought the cooling fan would have come on but it never did. Now sure what temperature it's supposed to turn on. It takes almost a half hour to get to the 11 psi, it's not right away. I've ruled out both switches (via gauge readings)and control valve n428 because at 3500 rpm the two stage oil pump jumps up to high flow, 58 psi. So oil pump is working and switches are reading correct. My oil cap is hard to pull off when engine is running, so I checked the vacuum at the dipstick and had 1.5-2.0 in hg. I took pcv diagram out and it wasn't cracked or torn. I also did timing chain, pistons, rod and main bearings recently and at that time removed the cam bridge screen. Engine runs perfect, idles smooth, no noise and the only code is p164d00. Anyone have ideas, I'd appreciate it.

Did you replace balance shafts with genuine oem?

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[09A6]

Did you replace balance shafts with genuine oem?

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No I haven't. Some posts say balance shafts are not the problem. Some post say cam bridge or intake cam. I even watched a hour long YouTube video and the guy replaced all of those parts and it fixed the problem, but he couldn't say what part was the actual failed part. So he wasted a bunch of money on parts it didn't need.

[Shane Horning]

No I haven't. Some posts say balance shafts are not the problem. Some post say cam bridge or intake cam. I even watched a hour long YouTube video and the guy replaced all of those parts and it fixed the problem, but he couldn't say what part was the actual failed part. So he wasted a bunch of money on parts it didn't need.

Id say if you swapped the bearings with the correct ones, so clearance is correct then change balance shafts next

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[Theiceman]

1. Did this car have low oil pressure before you did the engine work ???
2. Back yard mechanics should never mess with Crank and main bearings as the risk/ reward is just too great on an otherwise good engines. Rod bearings fine, they are all yellow on this engine and are just a swappable part.

Normally the vast majority of the time it is the BS causing low oil pressure , but since you have had the engine apart, all bets are off..

[09A6]

1. Did this car have low oil pressure before you did the engine work ???
2. Back yard mechanics should never mess with Crank and main bearings as the risk/ reward is just too great on an otherwise good engines. Rod bearings fine, they are all yellow on this engine and are just a swappable part.

Normally the vast majority of the time it is the BS causing low oil pressure , but since you have had the engine apart, all bets are off..

I bought the car not running due to a timing chain tensioner failure. The owner did say it had a oil consumption problem. They never mentioned a low oil pressure issue. I only did the bearings because I was already in there doing the piston update. I didn't remove the balance shafts because they turned freely. If I pull them how can you tell if they are bad? I can look to see if the screens are there but you can't see the actual bearings.

[RPMtech147]

1. Did this car have low oil pressure before you did the engine work ???
2. Back yard mechanics should never mess with Crank and main bearings as the risk/ reward is just too great on an otherwise good engines. Rod bearings fine, they are all yellow on this engine and are just a swappable part.

Normally the vast majority of the time it is the BS causing low oil pressure , but since you have had the engine apart, all bets are off..

Low oil pressure is always a nightmare with these engines because there are so many places they can loose pressure. We don't even bother tearing into them anymore if they have low oil pressure. It's cheaper just replace the engine, and the engines are not cheap.

[Theiceman]

Low oil pressure is always a nightmare with these engines because there are so many places they can loose pressure. We don't even bother tearing into them anymore if they have low oil pressure. It's cheaper just replace the engine, and the engines are not cheap.

yup 100%

the things that can cause it are all high labour things . that's why i suggest people just don't Fuck with bearings .
we had a guy last moth rebuild it all with brand new bearings, used plastigauge etc. all that to find out the manufacturer of bearings he used were not exactly the same and caused low oil pressure at idle . had to tear whole engine down again

We had the guy where he had low oil pressure at idle and had a leaking piston squitter, had to tear the entire engine down...

Then there was the guy with cam advance issues caused by low oil pressure, jammed oil return valve in the underside of the head.. engine had to come apart and head off.

And lastly of course the balance shafts and the Chinese balance shafts headaches...

If you have good oil pressure before you start a rebuild, do NOT touch the cranks and mains. They are solid on this car and ive never heard of any go bad..

[jessenepywoda]

At idle your supposed to have -3 in hg (maybe only for "white top")
timing chain tensioners, must be OE (ECS Bremman chain tensioner = low oil pressure)