Clutch pedal vibration

[Millertime9]

Hi all. Got an 06 b7 cab on 110k miles. It had the clutch changed at 60k miles, for reference.

Recently I've noticed when the pedal is depressed even just a few cm, there's a very obvious vibration felt in the pedal. It continues until the pedal hits the floor but as soon as I bring my foot up a cm or two, the vibration starts again. There is zero issue with slipping or changing gear. Is there any chance this can be due to anything less major than an entire clutch change, bearing in mind I've just been quoted £1300 from a mechanic I really do trust for a full clutch swap out? As much as I love the car it's hard to justify when that's pretty much half the value of the entire car now :(

Thanks

[CycloSteve]

Could be a number of things, as something is out of balance. Bearings come to mind first, both the throwout and the pilot. The clutch disk itself can also be damaged or out of balance/warped, and the flywheel may have wear issues. All of which would require pulling the transmission to repair. If it is a vehicle you enjoy and want to keep for a number of years, pull the trigger.

[Millertime9]

Hiya, thanks for the reply. So even if it is just a bearing, the issue is to get to it it's such a deep job that you may as well change the clutch whilst you have everything exposed? I know this is maybe a daft question as it could last a week or last a year, but if there's no slipping or issues with changing gears does it suggest it hasn't got THAT bad yet and as such could last a while before fully going? As in, do things get worse in stages or could I easily drive tomorrow and it completely goes?

Is £1300 actually a fair enough quote too? I do trust the mechanic and I feel bad even asking the question, it's just way more than I thought!

[CycloSteve]

It all depends. If it were me, I would go the full-route while they are in there, replacing everything. With 50k on the clutch, the last thing you want to do is face another failed part a year from now, and pay for the labor a second time (kicking yourself for not biting the bullet, per se). The shop may also not warranty what they fix if only a partial. With the clutch a vast portion of the cost is typically the labor, not the parts.

No idea if the price quote is good or not, as that would depend on what the breakdown is on parts vs. labor and what they expect to replace and with what quality of components (OEM, actual Audi parts, upgraded/uprated parts, or aftermarket). A competitive quote/second opinion may help.

[Millertime9]

Hi, thank you.

Interestingly, my "low brake fluid" light came up...

The reservoir took about 150ml of brake fluid and whether it's an incredible coincidence or not... the pedal vibration is gone!

There's a slight noise, as in the engine pitch changes when I depress the pedal, but no more vibration or juddering...

Could the issue have been down to low fluid!?

Suppose the question if that's the case though would be why has the fluid went down!

[oVeRdOsE]

please report if you find it out.

Had the same behaviour , but for like a day.
the vibration was great enough that I thought the car was literally broken.

Just appeared on a normal back to work slow drive.

Parked the car pissed-off, thinking about a hard fix. Next day it was gone and never came back. About a year ago !

I assume something like a liquid, dust or something get on the flywheel and dry out?

[CycloSteve]

You may want to have the brake fluid (shared with the clutch system) flushed. Since it is hydroscopic (takes on water), it is good to do this every few years. Helps with pedal feel, safety, and reducing the likelyhood of corrosion in lines/system. It is a pain to do it right in these cars, consuming a ton of fluid and multiple trips around the car, thus farming it out to a good indy mechanic may be your best bet.

[Millertime9]

Ok thank you all

Interestingly, noticed these marks on the ground when I was parking..

The back 2 are from the exhausts I think which I'm assuming is OK, but the other one looks to be from the passenger side rear wheel area.

Could this be where the brake fluid is leaking or is that a coincidence?

[Millertime9]

Grr, turns out both rear calipers are leaking and need changed too :(

This could spell the end for the car, which is devastating

If the clutch is going to be between 1200 and 1300, I'd imagine calipers aren't cheap to get and swap over either...

When I topped up the fluid on Sunday, the clutch felt absolutely normal until yesterday, so lasted 3 days. But when I open the brake reservoir and try to add some more fluid, it just sits there so it must be full

Is it not weird on Sunday adding fuel and it stopped the pedal vibration and juddering?

I know I'm clutching at straws now but is it maybe an air lock?

I just don't see how adding fluid on sunday made it better for 3 days if the caliper leak isn't causing the clutch judder?

[Millertime9]

Can someone please help?

Why would it only do this sometimes...

I just really can't justify £1300 for a car worth £2500 max and that's devastating as i love the car

Surely if it was a real clutch issue a) it'd constantly judder, not just sometimes and b) I'd have issues changing gears or with it slipping?

[CycloSteve]

Based on your description it really does sound like the primary issue is low fluid due to the brakes leaking (intermittent, no slippage, no noise). If it were mine, I would fix the brakes, bleeding the system as part of that, and see if the clutch pedal stutter comes back or is gone for good.

Sometimes we spend money on our older cars because we like them and enjoy their use, not necessarily because it makes sense or is a great investment...just ask me about keeping my ancient B5 Avant going.