Joining the Allroad world

[Kick-The-P-A]

Good day Gents,

Little hello from a new Allroad owner.

Always been a big fan of wagons, I've had many Vr6 Passat's and my current one is Audi A4 b6 1.8T 6Spd



Got the chance to pickup a 2004 AR 2.7t 6spd about a year ago for almost nothing (without those wheels, no matter). It had a broken 6sp but it ran.



Always like the 2.7T in any of the platforms it was used in. Never had one and now was the great chance. Also always loved the AR with it very wide fenders look.

Picked up the car and right away in the garage. Found a working 6sp and started the replacement.



New cluctch while i'm there



Car also came with a cutoff exhaust, only downpipes remained and they weren't great anyways.

Got rid of the stock stuff and got the JHM 3in downpipe kit. This is the fun start to the first real exhaust project i've ever done. 2 x resonators, 2 x mufflers. All 3 inch in size, a mix of 304 & 409 stainless



Wrapped them up and dried them out on the stove before final install.



JHM's kit comes with two exhaust pieces, so i would build the rest from here.



New section added



Adding an Xpipe to the setup.




Test fitting on my makeshift welding table.



Next thing was me finding the placement of the rear mufflers so that i could then finalize the placement of the Resonators between the Xpipe and mufflers.

First exhaust build i've done so i was going with what worked for me. I'm sure there are better ways to do all this but worked for me.






One side almost done with v-bands in place, everything tacked.



Made allot of mistake on the right side and learned allot so it went allot faster doing the left side



Both sides tacked, resonators in their final position.




Took it all down, time to weld the whole thing,





Don't judge the welds, they will hold, its all good materials but i'm no pro.

Will post sound once i can figure where to post the video.

Car came out of garage, i got some Speedline wheels for the car.



I then addressed some of the rust issues on the car (doors, tailgate, back window trim). I'm sure you've all seen this freeking stuff. Doors with no rust being installed. Removing trim to clear and fix underneath. Tailgate will also be replaced.








Now that I've addressed the rust issues. I'm waiting for my Paint guy to tell me when he can take my car and redo the whole thing.

After driving the car little bit it was obvious the suspension was shot and needed replacement. This car was already on Air delete and I want to lower it. Saw that BC coilovers are getting a good rep and they've got something for the AR so I got a kit from them.




Started the teardown of the front suspension and to my freaking surprise and i should of bought a lottery ticket right then and there. The pinch bolts came undone with zero, nada, zip issues, took less then 5 minutes to take out. I had the bottom shock bolt, pinch bolt and the 3 top plate bolts out in 15min. Never been lucky like that ever.




But of course, reality has to come back and kick my balls. The top plate fucked. One with a destroyed hole and another with Stripped threads.




Moved to the back and this area was a bit more work. Broke the 2 bolts holding the strut and the more i looked i was seeing worn out bushing. I also had a previously seen my rear diff was leaking from bad seals.



Made the decision that I will replace all bushings, will take it all apart, fix the seals, get all the suspension components sand blasted and then powder coated. Subframe included.

Ordered the StrongFlex kit for all the suspension components and subframe. That's on its way. Just finished tearing down everything today.






Anybody who's got experience with AR subframe and the following components.

Do I need to reinstall/re-use them with the strongflex bushing. I'm thinking these pucks or whatever they're called will make the car drop even lower if I don't put them back in? Can anybody help me confirm?





So that's where I'm at. Lots of suspension work to finish, then Paint. Breaks are also getting some 18z's. More to come

Thanks for any feedback.

P-A

[ShelbyM3]

Good day Gents,

Little hello from a new Allroad owner.

Always been a big fan of wagons, I've had many Vr6 Passat's and my current one is Audi A4 b6 1.8T 6Spd



Got the chance to pickup a 2004 AR 2.7t 6spd about a year ago for almost nothing (without those wheels, no matter). It had a broken 6sp but it ran.



Always like the 2.7T in any of the platforms it was used in. Never had one and now was the great chance. Also always loved the AR with it very wide fenders look.

Picked up the car and right away in the garage. Found a working 6sp and started the replacement.



New cluctch while i'm there



Car also came with a cutoff exhaust, only downpipes remained and they weren't great anyways.

Got rid of the stock stuff and got the JHM 3in downpipe kit. This is the fun start to the first real exhaust project i've ever done. 2 x resonators, 2 x mufflers. All 3 inch in size, a mix of 304 & 409 stainless



Wrapped them up and dried them out on the stove before final install.



JHM's kit comes with two exhaust pieces, so i would build the rest from here.



New section added



Adding an Xpipe to the setup.




Test fitting on my makeshift welding table.



Next thing was me finding the placement of the rear mufflers so that i could then finalize the placement of the Resonators between the Xpipe and mufflers.

First exhaust build i've done so i was going with what worked for me. I'm sure there are better ways to do all this but worked for me.






One side almost done with v-bands in place, everything tacked.



Made allot of mistake on the right side and learned allot so it went allot faster doing the left side



Both sides tacked, resonators in their final position.




Took it all down, time to weld the whole thing,





Don't judge the welds, they will hold, its all good materials but i'm no pro.

Will post sound once i can figure where to post the video.

Car came out of garage, i got some Speedline wheels for the car.



I then addressed some of the rust issues on the car (doors, tailgate, back window trim). I'm sure you've all seen this freeking stuff. Doors with no rust being installed. Removing trim to clear and fix underneath. Tailgate will also be replaced.








Now that I've addressed the rust issues. I'm waiting for my Paint guy to tell me when he can take my car and redo the whole thing.

After driving the car little bit it was obvious the suspension was shot and needed replacement. This car was already on Air delete and I want to lower it. Saw that BC coilovers are getting a good rep and they've got something for the AR so I got a kit from them.




Started the teardown of the front suspension and to my freaking surprise and i should of bought a lottery ticket right then and there. The pinch bolts came undone with zero, nada, zip issues, took less then 5 minutes to take out. I had the bottom shock bolt, pinch bolt and the 3 top plate bolts out in 15min. Never been lucky like that ever.




But of course, reality has to come back and kick my balls. The top plate fucked. One with a destroyed hole and another with Stripped threads.




Moved to the back and this area was a bit more work. Broke the 2 bolts holding the strut and the more i looked i was seeing worn out bushing. I also had a previously seen my rear diff was leaking from bad seals.



Made the decision that I will replace all bushings, will take it all apart, fix the seals, get all the suspension components sand blasted and then powder coated. Subframe included.

Ordered the StrongFlex kit for all the suspension components and subframe. That's on its way. Just finished tearing down everything today.






Anybody who's got experience with AR subframe and the following components.

Do I need to reinstall/re-use them with the strongflex bushing. I'm thinking these pucks or whatever they're called will make the car drop even lower if I don't put them back in? Can anybody help me confirm?





So that's where I'm at. Lots of suspension work to finish, then Paint. Breaks are also getting some 18z's. More to come

Thanks for any feedback.

P-A

Welcome P-A. That looks like a fun project with a lot of work that you jumped right in to. Love it.

The pucks are subframe spacers and are Allroad specific. They’re what help make an Allroad an Allroad over other avants. They lower the subframes and essentially lift the body. A lot of guys have taken them out and run A6 suspension. You’ll need to do front and rear subframes to keep your geometry the same.

Going this low can be really hard on suspension bushings and CV axles, though. Be prepared for that. You may also want to run A6 coilovers rather than Allroad, depending on if you are trying to make her low low or not. The Allroad coilovers are built to take these in to account.

Look forward to seeing your progress. Keep up the good work!


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[Audibot]

Hey welcome and a heck of a great job! Well on your way to restoring an Allroad.

You said you took care of the rust but I don't see pics of the after--just before. Any current pics?

[Kick-The-P-A]

Hey welcome and a heck of a great job! Well on your way to restoring an Allroad.

You said you took care of the rust but I don't see pics of the after--just before. Any current pics?

The process of rust repair was me replacing the components that had to much rust to even try to fix. That included the 2 rear doors. The hatch we will be cutting out the bad corners and fixing with actual un-rusted corner. The sad story on that is I thought I had picked up a good replacement hatch, the corners were good, the third brake light was not rusted out. Then I removed the license plate cover and boom. 3 freaking major holes hidden behind there. So my paint guy is going to take care of fixing the hatch and then repainting the whole car.

The plan was to paint the car before winter and then store the car in the garage while the paint finishes off-gassing and i would take this time to do the suspension install and all the other work i wanted.

Well my paint guy is a little busy and Winter was around the corner so just decided to get started on the new suspension install which then turned into this whole make over. When i'm done i will have a new daily driver that will be pretty solid.

And now i got my bushings today.




More fun to come

[jbain2]

Welcome to the love hate world of C5 ownership. Seems like a recent rejuvenation and infusion of Allroads and avants in the C5 section.

I know you probably put the downpipe wrap on the control heat but in areas that are rust prone that wrap basically turns the pipes into rust tubes. You might want to reconsider. Just my opinion.

Keep up the good work!


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[DavidAR]

Welcome to the C5 allroad community! You've done some great work !!

[Kick-The-P-A]

More Fun in the full rear end maintenance plan.
With the subframe down, time to take the diff out and give it a very needed cleaning.
Can you tell that both seals have been leaking.

[Kick-The-P-A]

Got a new tool in the mail today. We will see how far this gets me with the Bushing removal. Everything look to be good quality but i've read that the threaded rods either bend or break. For 60$CA, gonna take the chance that this can at least get some of these removed.

I can always replace the threaded rod with a more quality piece.



First attempt on the Upper control arm. Reality hits and i don't have a dye that small enough so using the aluminum pin I ripped out of the other bushing. Worked out



Next i tried on the lower control arm. Was able to remove the pins in the first one. still have the rubber to remove.



Other one i was to able use the tool properly and pushout the bushing.



Never knew how NOT fun it is to remove bushings on stuff that's rusted.

Best tip I take back from the work i've done so far is get the puller tool and have some torches around. Putting heat on the metal control arms really helped with pushing the bushings out.

The more i work on projects, the more i realize that a set or Torches are a must. At least in my climat

[AWSchliemann]

Ah, yes... a torch and a BFH are essential.

[Kick-The-P-A]

More progress, second lower control arm done.



Then i made my first fatal mistake.

I was all prays with using torches not a week ago but I've just learned that you have to be careful with cast aluminum parts. they don't take the heat as well as steel.





Life lesson of the day achieved. That's a mistake i will never do again. Now to find a replacement part.

[Kick-The-P-A]

More progress arrived today.

Dropped off the control arms and 18z calipers off to sand blasting and they were ready today

Clean parts are the best to start a fresh rebuild.




This also proved to me that the control arms still had a metal casing in them from the bushings.




Those big metal lips on the arms where the bushing was, i could now clearly see the difference in metals and that it wasn't actually part of the control arm.

Took my die grinder with carbide tip to cut them and release the tension. They came out easily after that.



Gained a whole lot of respect for guys that deal with bushing often. Man what a pain to take all this shit out.



Finished taking the calipers apart. At least that was very easy to do.




Now to order some parts.

[Audibot]

Nice!

[ShelbyM3]

More progress, second lower control arm done.



Then i made my first fatal mistake.

I was all prays with using torches not a week ago but I've just learned that you have to be careful with cast aluminum parts. they don't take the heat as well as steel.





Life lesson of the day achieved. That's a mistake i will never do again. Now to find a replacement part.

That’s wild. You must be using an Oxyacetylene torch or something hot hot.


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[ShelbyM3]

More progress arrived today.

Dropped off the control arms and 18z calipers off to sand blasting and they were ready today

Clean parts are the best to start a fresh rebuild.




This also proved to me that the control arms still had a metal casing in them from the bushings.




Those big metal lips on the arms where the bushing was, i could now clearly see the difference in metals and that it wasn't actually part of the control arm.

Took my die grinder with carbide tip to cut them and release the tension. They came out easily after that.



Gained a whole lot of respect for guys that deal with bushing often. Man what a pain to take all this shit out.



Finished taking the calipers apart. At least that was very easy to do.




Now to order some parts.

Nice work. I like what you’re doing here!


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[Kick-The-P-A]

That’s wild. You must be using an Oxyacetylene torch or something hot hot.

Yup its was and i put to much heat. Life lesson learned.

[Kick-The-P-A]

Worked on cleaning up subframe mating surface, some surface rust and pealing underbody coating. Also cleaning the Rear shock mounts, they also had some surface rust.

[ShelbyM3]

Worked on cleaning up subframe mating surface, some surface rust and pealing underbody coating. Also cleaning the Rear shock mounts, they also had some surface rust.

Hell yeah! It’s the little things, Man! Love this.
Wire wheel and some spray paint, or did you use an underbody coating?


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[Kick-The-P-A]

Parts are coming in and parts are coming back from powder coat. Perfect example of "Show me your smiling without showing me your face". LOL





Gotta love those calipers




Knuckle and control arms





Brakes setup parts also arriving (Line, bolts, replacement seals, pads etc.)





Tomorrow is Brake re-assembly day. Can't wait.

[OOOOallroad]

Loving this build!! Racing red suspension parts are gonna look nice under there. Using oem caliper bolts and tapping the uprights with iirc, 12x1.5 holes will give you an oem setup for safety and ease of installation. Bolts are like $8 each from FCP. Rock on. OOOO


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[Kick-The-P-A]

Loving this build!! Racing red suspension parts are gonna look nice under there. Using oem caliper bolts and tapping the uprights with iirc, 12x1.5 holes will give you an oem setup for safety and ease of installation. Bolts are like $8 each from FCP. Rock on. OOOO

I get it, Even thought i don't plan on reverting back to stock setup. Just did not want to modify them to not have that options. I get the security concern but i could not see them selling these bolt setups if it was a security risk. Thanks for the comments and thoughts on this. Appreciate it.

[Kick-The-P-A]

Hit a little snag last night,

Looks like the rebuilt kit from RockAuto is not at all the right part.

From what I've read and my own measurement the 18z calipers have these size pistons (38-34-30). That's what I measured also.
Everywhere I've read online, it stated that Audi Q7 with 18z have those dimensions

So on RockAuto they sell a kit from Carlson, very inexpensive (13$) but actually very wrong.



Turns out the kit they sell seems to be for 17z, piston size were 38-36-34.

Unfortunately the RockAuto site does not show any details on the sizes but i thought i was good with selecting the right model of car etc.

Good news is RockAuto just gave me a refund, no debate

Found another rebuilt kit from these guys.

https://autobrakesolutions.com/

A bit more money but don't care as longs I get moving forward again.

Funtimes

[tracksleds6]

Awesome work so far! Super impressive and it’s nice to see that replacing the rear control arm bushings is doable, albeit, a PITA. I am also thinking about ordering poly bushings for my S6 avant as regular rubber ones are no longer available. Cheers!


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[Kick-The-P-A]

While i wait for the right brake parts to put the calipers together. Might has well get going to putting the bushings back in the control arms and knuckles .






I can't believe how easy it is to install these. Why are car builders not using this more. I can't imagine the price would be that different then those bushings with rubber and metal sleeves.

Can't wait to drive car. its gonna feel so tight.

[Audibot]

Comfort, price, and noise probably. I mean, you're supposed to grease them yearly or so, and no general consumer is going to do this.