Crank No Start

[ProfileTrader]

Hi,

1997 12v V6 2.8L

I am in need of some desperate help. I tried to start the car yesterday. It will crank but not start at all. I had just driven a couple days earlier.

When I looked under the hood I found the plug (top right in the picture) that connects into the coil pack was not seated. When I touched it it fell out. I saw that it had broken off inside and when I tried to remove it it was seized in there. Also inside the plug boot it was white. and the prong was broken off - it is of course seized inside the pack.

Would this prevent the car from starting? I ask since I thought the car should start just run on 5 cylinder (but terribly) but maybe not.

Where can I get a replacement (unless someone knows how to get the seized piece out). And when I get the replacement can I just cut the wires and splice on the new (used pack) of just the one that is damaged - I ask since the location of the wires and plugs is a nightmare to get to.

Here are some pictures.
Pic 1. Coil pack, Pic 2. Seized inside, Pic 3. Used one for sale.

20250217_095352~2.jpg20250217_095430.jpgCoil pack.jpg

[walky_talky20]

If you have spark on the other 5, then it should start. I think you should familiarize yourself with how to check for spark so you can be more certain when diagnosing. Generally I would pull the spark plug wire off the plug, stick a screwdriver in end of the wire, and situate the screwdriver so the shaft is a few mm away from a ground (like the valve cover). Have somebody crank the engine and watch for spark to jump. Instead of a screwdriver you can also use a spark plug, and make sure the threads are touching a grounded surface.

For the wiring to swap the coil: the less splices, the better the reliability. I would avoid cutting wires if you can. You do not have to follow the same path as the original wires. You could, for example, abandon the old wires and run the new ones via an easier path . That said, if you need to cut and splice them, that would also work. I would recommend crimp instead of solder. Solder will stiffen the wire which is not ideal for the vibration and movement in the engine bay over the long term. I prefer to use crimps without insulation, and then add my own heat-shrink insulation. Good Luck, and post here if you need more help getting it started.

[ProfileTrader]

If you have spark on the other 5, then it should start. I think you should familiarize yourself with how to check for spark so you can be more certain when diagnosing. Generally I would pull the spark plug wire off the plug, stick a screwdriver in end of the wire, and situate the screwdriver so the shaft is a few mm away from a ground (like the valve cover). Have somebody crank the engine and watch for spark to jump. Instead of a screwdriver you can also use a spark plug, and make sure the threads are touching a grounded surface.

For the wiring to swap the coil: the less splices, the better the reliability. I would avoid cutting wires if you can. You do not have to follow the same path as the original wires. You could, for example, abandon the old wires and run the new ones via an easier path . That said, if you need to cut and splice them, that would also work. I would recommend crimp instead of solder. Solder will stiffen the wire which is not ideal for the vibration and movement in the engine bay over the long term. I prefer to use crimps without insulation, and then add my own heat-shrink insulation. Good Luck, and post here if you need more help getting it started.

Thank you @walky_talky20 for the help. I ordered a whole new set of coils and plug wires. Unfortunately will take a week to get. Thank you for the good idea of re-routing. I easily found one of the plug connections. The other took some time but I think it is connected to the MAF sensor. There is no way to pull on the wire to tell since it wraps around the whole engine including the backside so I will re-route it as you suggested. So no need to splice it unless I am wrong and cannot figure it out - but I do not foresee that at all. Once it is all re-installed if it will not crank I will check for spark and go from there, since the coils need replacing anyway being one is fried. Thanks again - appreciated. Will update as I check more including fuses and relays, and after I install the new coils and plug wires.

[walky_talky20]

Here's a good DIY guide that shows you where the wires go:
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/diy...ck-diy-171173/

[ProfileTrader]

Thank you. I finally got it reinstalled and still crank, no start. I am getting fuel. No spark is confirmed. and finally able to pull some codes.
P1392 - Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2 Open Cir/Short to B+ and
P1340 - Crankshaft-/Camshaft Position Sensor Signals Out of Sequence

The car starts sometimes in the am but after shutting it off it no longer does.


I checked the plug connection to the Camshaft position sensor and the voltage is Lead 1, 10.78 volts (supposed to be 5v) Lead 2 (signal line) 5v as it is supposed to be, and Lead 3, continuity. I would like to test the Sensor itself but not sure how and cannot find any writeup on it. How can I do this?

From what I read if the voltage is over 5 volts that means it is either the loom or the ECU (ECM). Can anyone confirm this.
If so I think it would be better to swap an ECU (same part number) and see it that was the problem. It would be a better use of time and energy. If I do is there a procedure for doing so.
Thank for the help.