Inherited a 2005 A4 1.8T Quattro w/ 100k, Need advice

[sputnik378]

My friend parked this car in his garage at 100k about 7 years ago when the battery went dead. Instead of replacing it, he went and bought a 4Runner.

He offered it to me if I could get it running and out of his garage... As a reasonably industrious shade tree mechanic, I dove in.

I bought a new battery, then used a paper clip to jump the fuel relay and drain the tank, got some new snow tires, changed the oil, then drove it from SLC to CO. I've put ~6k miles on it w/o any issues and probably another 2k virtually in Assetto Corsa just because I can. At this point, I'm pretty pleased with this car and have decided it's worth keeping in the fleet as an affordable little runaround, mainly due to the relatively low cost of ownership and availability of used parts on FB marketplace.

So now I'm in the process of deep-diving into all things Audi and the 1.8T. Needless to say, there's a lot, and I'm hoping for some shared wisdom from the old heads. After looking at every A4 B6 Wiki page, FAQ, and many posts on this forum, I have a couple of questions I'd like to throw out there before I go deeper.

Plan:

DD w/ maximum reliability and eventually increase drivability w/ minimal upgrades (VAG tune, new suspension, BBK, wheels/tires, and ski/bike racks)

Questions:

Mechanical:

Here is my adjusted 100k service list. Please help me to prioritize it, as I am new to Audis and ultimately want to keep costs to a minimum while maximizing reliability.

• Oil change
• Oil filter change
• New spark plugs
• New air filter
• New charcoal cabin filter
• Full timing belt change (timing belt, water pump, valve cover/spark plug gasket, accessory belt, tensioner, coolant flush)
• New fuel filter
• Power steering fluid flush
• Transmission fluid flush
• Differential fluid flush
• Brake fluid flush (DOT 4 fluid)
• Brake pads
• Brake rotors (maybe not if they are gtg for now, and I plan to do a BBK)
• Vacuum lines (necessary?)
• Coolant lines (necessary?)
• New fuel pump? (I'm somewhat inclined to let the original run out its life as it's not the cheapest replacement part)

I've got much of this priced out on FCP Euro in this cart (please take a look), and I'm curious about a few items from a reliability standpoint:

Water Pump - Do I need to stick to genuine, or will a Graf 06A121012G included in this kit suffice? It's almost 1/4 the cost of the Audi VW Water Pump - Genuine VW 06A121012E.

Fluids - I could do Amsoil if I need to, as I've had excellent luck in the past, but it will be more expensive. Is that overkill, and should I stick to the OEM fluids already in the cart?

Replacement lines - Can I hold off on these for now, and which ones do I need to consider inspecting/replacing first?

Fuel Pump - Is this vital, or should I deal with it when it fails? I've read mixed reviews, with many saying they got A LOT of miles out of their factory fuel pumps.

I am also curious about things like clutch, motor mounts, CV Axles, and any other typical fail points or areas to inspect once I finally get it on the rack.

Any upgrades to consider that won't break the bank, or reliability?

Aesthetics:

Roof Racks - Should I stick with the genuine Audi attachment bars or go aftermarket? Looking for the LEAST noisy option, and I'm also not opposed to skipping the rack and just installing a receiver hitch for my bike rack instead, as I can get all our ski gear for a day inside the car, safe from road grime.

Headlights - I have two sets. I plan on upgrading a set to Xenon or LED and UV treating the lenses. I'm open to suggestions or experiences.

LED Interior Light Swap - Worth it, or a waste of time vs the benefits? I'd do all the dash, foot well, and interior lights if I do it.

Steering Wheel/Stereo - I'd like to have media control buttons on the steering wheel and, ideally, a heater, but I haven't found the EXACT process for those upgrades. It appears that B7 steering wheels should work; I'm unsure about the CAN integration and interface with a newer aftermarket head unit. This is a whole other deep dive that I thought was worth mentioning, as it goes a long way in updating an older vehicle to have integrated infotainment/navigation. I'm also not opposed to going back to stock with a Bluetooth add-on if the audio quality is best, and I can use my phone for navigation.

Additional Info:

I have all the service records and have constructed my initial service list with those in mind. I also plan to do all the fluids simply because it sat for so many years. However, it's been running fine with the old fluids for the 6k I've driven. My friend, who has had a lot of German cars and is a race instructor, told me not to worry about anything until it makes a noise and then to fix it reactively. Although this seems slightly dangerous, it speaks volumes to the machine's quality as he drives cars very hard!

I scooped a set of WeatherTech floor mats, a complete front suspension control arm kit (Chinese spares for cheap), and a set of headlamps. I've been pleasantly surprised with the availability and price of parts readily available.

Please share any knowledge you feel is relevant to help me get up to speed. I will accept all of it with much appreciation.

[Larhal]

loooks like you have the most scheduled. CCT (Can Chain Tensioner) pads would be something that I would do when the valve cover is off and open.

[Larhal]

loooks like you have the most scheduled. CCT (Can Chain Tensioner) pads would be something that I would do when the valve cover is off and open. The other old saying "If it aint broke dont mess with it"

[kwilson]

It sounds like you scored a good car. As far as maintenance, I'd get that timing belt done ASAP. There is a revised tensioner (the Litens tensioner) that is so far superior to the old stuff in your cart. It ditches the hydraulic plunger. You can gut the existing tensioner and reuse that as a holder/spacer for the roller, which you can refresh with a new one. Get a continental belt and Febi or NTN rollers. As far as water pumps, I always go genuine with those. Too many cheap aftermarket ones out there. I'm also not impressed with the metal vanes. There are no issues with the B6 composite vanes. Any issues were with earlier B5 pumps. Piece together your own "kit". Here are your part numbers. The Litens bracket is optional as stated, you can reuse your existing tensioner. Also, check out RMEuropean for parts. Good prices, good people, and a local CO company.

Timing Belt Contenental 06B109119A
Litens Tensioner Litens 06A109243A
Water Pump Genuine 06A121012G
Roller NTN/Febi 06B109244
Litens bracket 06A109181

You can buy aftermarket G12 or 13 (pick you favorite flavor) at Advance Auto. Since you are in CO, you have access to the self-service junkyards that have tons of these cars. Grab front and rear brakes from a B7, which are very similar, if not the same as what came on S4s. This will give you a grood, cheap bolt on BBK.

For engine oil, these cars love cheap Rotella T6 5W-40 from Walmart. Get a quality filter (Mann) and save some cash there. I wouldn't replace the fuel pump unless it is making a lot of noise. If you are referring to fuel or brake lines, I would not replace unless they are leaking or very crusty. Since this sounds like a car that has lived it's life out West, you are probably good. Is this an Auto or 6 speed?

[Turbo510]

You sound plenty competent from your post. I've got 315K on my '05 (3.0 V6 and auto) and offer a few suggestions:

* Fuel pump is probably OK, despite 20 years. However, I've had one fail suddenly before. As said, be aware of any change in FP sounds.

* Headlight lens: I gave up on the polishing due to internal crazing of the clear plastic, and bought a set of new lenses. Getting the old lenses out was tedious, but I also didn't try heating the whole things to soften the Butyl rubber seals.

* If you have projector headlights with HID, remove the metal reflector unit from the plastic headlight assembly to check the reflector condition. Mine were nearly gone, so I improvised by adhering Aluminum foil with a film of Silicone adhesive, then polishing. Not perfect, but it did significantly improve the light output.

* I would disconnect every connector you come across, especially in the engine compartment. Spray with a contact cleaner containing protective oil, or use WD40. Also MAF cleaner spray in case there is contamination of the MAF sensor element.

* For engine oil and coolants, name-brand synthetic oils such as Mobil1, and Valvoline Xerex G40, essentially a VAG G13 substitute. I do 10K oil changes, but the V6 is probably easier on the oil than the turbocharged 1.8T.

* My '05 has media buttons on the wheel, but don't know if all A4s came wired for them.

* I highly recommend changing out the OE AM/FM CD unit for a modern touchscreen, NAV, Apple carplay or android compatible unit with Bluetooth, hands-free phoning, etc. I bought one in 2018; has worked fine but didn't have Android Auto at that time. This is a later version of the one I bought on Ebay: "Car Stereo Android 14 32G FM Radio GPS Wireless Carplay For Audi A4 2000-2009"

[kwilson]

Oh, and when you get it sorted, check out Motoza Tuning in Ft Collins. I have their stage 1+ and really like it.

Second on replacing the stereo for an android unit. I have one from Xtrons.

[deyrag]

if its really going to be a daily swap the center console for a B7 one so you have some decent cup holders.

[egovreau]

I would consider replacing the plastic PCV lines under the intake. They will get brittle over time and break.

Replace the check valves and hoses too as they tend to clog.

034 Motorsports has a decent kit.

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[AvantNoir]

Congrats on the inheritance!
Check all wiring at coil packs and fuel injectors. Insulation is most likely cracked. If that's the case, DM me as I make the best quality (that's what everyone tells me) wiring solutions for these cars.
You can see my work on my Instagram profile, @m27autowerks

[Gunnarrrrr]

as mentioned above, litens tensioner setup. get an oem water pump, the metal ones are all trash. try oempartsonline or genuineaudiparts for oem parts. Don’t do a gates belt or anything silly, go continental. conti serp belt at the same time too, and if the tensioner on that hasn’t started squeaking yet it will soon, grab one of those too. the other roller on the serp can be a source of squeal, so if you want to hit everything then grab that. NTN typically makes all the tensioner/roller parts for both belts for this car so look for those, and conti makes our belts. and when you find the manufacturers part number, throw it into rockauto’s search and that’ll give you the best price on an essentially oem part with the audi rings shaved off.

for the valve cover, don’t forget the timing chain tensioner gasket. while the timing chain tensioner is off, replace the shoes on it, there’s no OEM replacement, hit amazon or aliexpress, or ebay for those. For gaskets, keep in mind that corteco made most of the oem stuff for these. elring and victor reinz are good too, but typically corteco is actually oem.

vacuum lines no, but the pcv kit from 034 yes. grab an extra o ring with the kit because they don’t really fit, you need to double up on the end that goes into the filter housing.

coolant lines, nah. but do the rear coolant flange. OEM only. anything else will leak. It’s also really easy to do when the valve cover is off so you’d be crazy not to. As far as other coolant maintenance goes, you may want to consider a thermostat housing, but you can wait on that one. The coolant flange is most important, typically only good for about 10 years before it gets brittle and will eventually just crack on its own either externally, or internally, leaking coolant out the oring area. don’t bother looking into aluminum versions or any other gimmicks, the tolerances on the gasket surface areas never come close to oem, and end up just being a source of leaks.


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[Gunnarrrrr]

Oh and i’m gonna veto the android head unit. unless you don’t mind cheapening the look of your interior. 2nd gen RNSE units from A3’s and TT’s are getting dirt cheap, and they interface wonderfully with the newer AMI units for music playback, as well as the OEM bluetooth phone integration with the microphone that’s probably already installed in your dome light. Same with factory reverse camera (from the 4L Q7) and OEM parking sensors along with factory visual parking aid. Things that an android head unit will never give you. Something about a stupid foam covered microphone clipped onto the sun visor with a wire hanging out of your A pillar really bothers me…


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[willemml]

I'll second that, I started out with a high end android unit... All the fancy features really don't justify the clunkyness of it though. I bought an MK1 RNSE from Gunnarrrrr and it is really nice. Matches the car interior perfectly. Unfortunately I broke both of the knobs prying them the wrong way... Replaced the main one but haven't replaced the volume knob (it still works). I will be looking into an MK2 unit at some point for the AMI interface.

[Gunnarrrrr]

I'll second that, I started out with a high end android unit... All the fancy features really don't justify the clunkyness of it though. I bought an MK1 RNSE from Gunnarrrrr and it is really nice. Matches the car interior perfectly. Unfortunately I broke both of the knobs prying them the wrong way... Replaced the main one but haven't replaced the volume knob (it still works). I will be looking into an MK2 unit at some point for the AMI interface.

don’t forget to keep your eye out for a cd-changer equipped glovebox for when the time comes. oh… and a bluetooth module-cut carpe in case u go phone module too. good news is you don’t need to spend $50 or so on a faceplate, because I’ve been seeing more and more TT and A3 units go for barely over $200 lately

also @ op, if you do want a mk1 rnse for cheap i’ve got more than I know what to do with leftover from all my experimenting.

I’ve also started a master list spreadsheet for all of the typical maintenance items with their VERIFIED oem’s and the manufacturer part numbers, now that audi isn’t selling a lot of these, but the oem’s still are. plus getting oem parts for 1/4 the dealership price with the audi rings ground off is 🤌

can’t trust ecs and fcp’s “OEM” stamp on some of their aftermarket stuff… 90% of the time they’re way off.


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[Turbo510]

Lots of good advice, and I hope that the OP is still interested in these opinions.

[sputnik378]

Lots of good advice, and I hope that the OP is still interested in these opinions.

Oh yeah! You better believe it. I was just on a deployment and didn't have any time to follow up until I got home last night. For simplicity, I'm addressing all your suggestions in reverse chronological order. Thank you all for taking the time. I'm looking forward to this little journey.

don’t forget to keep your eye out for a cd-changer equipped glovebox for when the time comes. oh… and a bluetooth module-cut carpe in case u go phone module too. good news is you don’t need to spend $50 or so on a faceplate, because I’ve been seeing more and more TT and A3 units go for barely over $200 lately

also @ op, if you do want a mk1 rnse for cheap i’ve got more than I know what to do with leftover from all my experimenting.

I’ve also started a master list spreadsheet for all of the typical maintenance items with their VERIFIED oem’s and the manufacturer part numbers, now that audi isn’t selling a lot of these, but the oem’s still are. plus getting oem parts for 1/4 the dealership price with the audi rings ground off is 🤌

can’t trust ecs and fcp’s “OEM” stamp on some of their aftermarket stuff… 90% of the time they’re way off.

I'm not sure I follow, why would I want a CD changer glove box? There is an aftermarket Pioneer unit installed already, but I'd rather have a stock look, especially if the audio quality is better. Bluetooth is a must, I'm assuming that would be an add-on. I'm not scared of modifying electronics if necessary, I'm pretty handy w/ solder and wires.

Forgive my ignorance, but what does rnse stand for? Which models would work, and which one would provide the best modern interface? Android Auto/Carplay?

I'll absolutely take that spreadsheet if you're offering it. It sounds like a valuable bit of documentation.

Oh and i’m gonna veto the android head unit. unless you don’t mind cheapening the look of your interior. 2nd gen RNSE units from A3’s and TT’s are getting dirt cheap, and they interface wonderfully with the newer AMI units for music playback, as well as the OEM bluetooth phone integration with the microphone that’s probably already installed in your dome light. Same with factory reverse camera (from the 4L Q7) and OEM parking sensors along with factory visual parking aid. Things that an android head unit will never give you. Something about a stupid foam covered microphone clipped onto the sun visor with a wire hanging out of your A pillar really bothers me…

I plan to install a radar detector and power it from 12v near the sunroof, and I imagine that will tell me if I have a microphone. From your experience, is it a quality mic?

Are you saying I can install an Audi factory reverse camera from a 4L Q7? I'd like to know more...

as mentioned above, litens tensioner setup. get an oem water pump, the metal ones are all trash. try oempartsonline or genuineaudiparts for oem parts. Don’t do a gates belt or anything silly, go continental. conti serp belt at the same time too, and if the tensioner on that hasn’t started squeaking yet it will soon, grab one of those too. the other roller on the serp can be a source of squeal, so if you want to hit everything then grab that. NTN typically makes all the tensioner/roller parts for both belts for this car so look for those, and conti makes our belts. and when you find the manufacturers part number, throw it into rockauto’s search and that’ll give you the best price on an essentially oem part with the audi rings shaved off.

for the valve cover, don’t forget the timing chain tensioner gasket. while the timing chain tensioner is off, replace the shoes on it, there’s no OEM replacement, hit amazon or aliexpress, or ebay for those. For gaskets, keep in mind that corteco made most of the oem stuff for these. elring and victor reinz are good too, but typically corteco is actually oem.

vacuum lines no, but the pcv kit from 034 yes. grab an extra o ring with the kit because they don’t really fit, you need to double up on the end that goes into the filter housing.

coolant lines, nah. but do the rear coolant flange. OEM only. anything else will leak. It’s also really easy to do when the valve cover is off so you’d be crazy not to. As far as other coolant maintenance goes, you may want to consider a thermostat housing, but you can wait on that one. The coolant flange is most important, typically only good for about 10 years before it gets brittle and will eventually just crack on its own either externally, or internally, leaking coolant out the oring area. don’t bother looking into aluminum versions or any other gimmicks, the tolerances on the gasket surface areas never come close to oem, and end up just being a source of leaks.

OEM water pump... Copy! I felt like that was going to be the answer, and it sounds like I've gotta remove the front clip to do it, so I'd rather not go again for another 100k.

I don't suppose you've got part numbers or links for the following? I'd hate to buy the wrong item as I plan on doing all this work over 1 weekend and I'm trying to get it all in hand soon.

Shoes on the chain tensioner?

PCV kit from 034, and extra o-ring...

rear coolant flange

Congrats on the inheritance!
Check all wiring at coil packs and fuel injectors. Insulation is most likely cracked. If that's the case, DM me as I make the best quality (that's what everyone tells me) wiring solutions for these cars.
You can see my work on my Instagram profile, @m27autowerks

I'll check it out, and I'll DM you as well. Forgive me, I gave up on IG a few years ago, and I'm not going back. I don't suppose you've got a website or pics of what you're talking about?

I would consider replacing the plastic PCV lines under the intake. They will get brittle over time and break.

Replace the check valves and hoses too as they tend to clog.

034 Motorsports has a decent kit.

I don't see the kit you are referring to on 034 motorsports. Perhaps I'm just not sure what you're referring to.

if its really going to be a daily swap the center console for a B7 one so you have some decent cup holders.

HEARD!

Oh, and when you get it sorted, check out Motoza Tuning in Ft Collins. I have their stage 1+ and really like it.

Second on replacing the stereo for an android unit. I have one from Xtrons.

I'll check it out. Thanks.

You sound plenty competent from your post. I've got 315K on my '05 (3.0 V6 and auto) and offer a few suggestions:

* Fuel pump is probably OK, despite 20 years. However, I've had one fail suddenly before. As said, be aware of any change in FP sounds.

* Headlight lens: I gave up on the polishing due to internal crazing of the clear plastic, and bought a set of new lenses. Getting the old lenses out was tedious, but I also didn't try heating the whole things to soften the Butyl rubber seals.

* If you have projector headlights with HID, remove the metal reflector unit from the plastic headlight assembly to check the reflector condition. Mine were nearly gone, so I improvised by adhering Aluminum foil with a film of Silicone adhesive, then polishing. Not perfect, but it did significantly improve the light output.

* I would disconnect every connector you come across, especially in the engine compartment. Spray with a contact cleaner containing protective oil, or use WD40. Also MAF cleaner spray in case there is contamination of the MAF sensor element.

* For engine oil and coolants, name-brand synthetic oils such as Mobil1, and Valvoline Xerex G40, essentially a VAG G13 substitute. I do 10K oil changes, but the V6 is probably easier on the oil than the turbocharged 1.8T.

* My '05 has media buttons on the wheel, but don't know if all A4s came wired for them.

* I highly recommend changing out the OE AM/FM CD unit for a modern touchscreen, NAV, Apple carplay or android compatible unit with Bluetooth, hands-free phoning, etc. I bought one in 2018; has worked fine but didn't have Android Auto at that time. This is a later version of the one I bought on Ebay: "Car Stereo Android 14 32G FM Radio GPS Wireless Carplay For Audi A4 2000-2009"

I'm gonna run the OG fuel pump for now, mainly because I know it was driven and maintained well by the previous owner. Thanks for the reassurance.

I have two sets of stock headlights. I was planning on installing the clearest ones for now and then working on the other set to make them sufficient upgrades. I feel like this is more of a deep dive and likely it'll be a later task once I've finished the 100k service. If you have links to any write-ups, I'd certainly appreciate them.

1.8T is undoubtedly going to be a routine oil change candidate, especially the way I drive.

I think that the transition to buttons on the wheel happened in 2005, and mine does not have them. That's why I'm asking about that upgrade, as I'm hoping it's an easy clock spring/wheel swap, and I'm in business. I'm also very hopeful that there is a heated steering wheel option as I fly drones professionally, and a heated steering wheel in the winter is one of the very best features for cold hands to keep dexterity.

It sounds like you scored a good car. As far as maintenance, I'd get that timing belt done ASAP. There is a revised tensioner (the Litens tensioner) that is so far superior to the old stuff in your cart. It ditches the hydraulic plunger. You can gut the existing tensioner and reuse that as a holder/spacer for the roller, which you can refresh with a new one. Get a continental belt and Febi or NTN rollers. As far as water pumps, I always go genuine with those. Too many cheap aftermarket ones out there. I'm also not impressed with the metal vanes. There are no issues with the B6 composite vanes. Any issues were with earlier B5 pumps. Piece together your own "kit". Here are your part numbers. The Litens bracket is optional as stated, you can reuse your existing tensioner. Also, check out RMEuropean for parts. Good prices, good people, and a local CO company.

Timing Belt Contenental 06B109119A
Litens Tensioner Litens 06A109243A
Water Pump Genuine 06A121012G
Roller NTN/Febi 06B109244
Litens bracket 06A109181

You can buy aftermarket G12 or 13 (pick you favorite flavor) at Advance Auto. Since you are in CO, you have access to the self-service junkyards that have tons of these cars. Grab front and rear brakes from a B7, which are very similar, if not the same as what came on S4s. This will give you a grood, cheap bolt on BBK.

For engine oil, these cars love cheap Rotella T6 5W-40 from Walmart. Get a quality filter (Mann) and save some cash there. I wouldn't replace the fuel pump unless it is making a lot of noise. If you are referring to fuel or brake lines, I would not replace unless they are leaking or very crusty. Since this sounds like a car that has lived it's life out West, you are probably good. Is this an Auto or 6 speed?

Thank you! I love part numbers!

Almost as much as I love valuable information gleaned from experience.

G12 or G13 is the coolant right?

I actually have a set of S4 brakes I've been chatting w/ a guy about. He said he'd sell me the brakes, rotors (even said he'd turn them to make sure they are viable), a glove box (mine is broken, I installed a cheap bandaid bracket, but it doesn't feel right), and a steering wheel for $500.

Rotella T6 5W-40 really? I don't need to stick w/ OEM. I don't mind if it's better, oil changes are cheap insurance.

6 speed.

loooks like you have the most scheduled. CCT (Can Chain Tensioner) pads would be something that I would do when the valve cover is off and open. The other old saying "If it aint broke dont mess with it"

I agree, and so does my race car friend. He has a 1.8T Golf that he says he hardly services and simply addresses noises as soon as they appear. However I'm also a big fan of preventative maintenance, and I'm thinking I'm going to be using this car for some long commutes in the future so I'm ok w/ doing the recommended things. You know, the other other old saying "CYA!"

[Turbo510]

G12 or G13 is the coolant right?

I like the color of G13 better. What can I say?

a glove box (mine is broken, I installed a cheap bandaid bracket, but it doesn't feel right)

I completely forgot that one. I used industrial-strength, slow-setting epoxy to bond those hinges back on. Some Dremel work with a sanding drum rounded out that job.

[egovreau]

Here's the link to the 034 breather kit.

https://www.034motorsport.com/breath...-silicone.html

They offer like three for the AMB but this is the one for the late AMB as you have a 2005.

Another thing that comes to mind...check the intake side of the head...if Coscast is stamped on the side I would almost consider looking around for a replacement head (one that is from an AWM engine is popular, but any small port head will work) as the Coscast heads are notorious for cracking for no good reason. Usually around #2 cylinder.

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[Gunnarrrrr]

get ready for a giant info dump.

RNS-E
2 main RNS-E models. 1st gen, part number ending in 192. 2nd gen, part number ending in 193. 193 is a lot less laggy, better hardware, and the screen res is 480x800 vs 240x400. the 193 also has the ability to interface with an AMI module (audi music interface) which can have a bluetooth dongle plugged in(oem option but its impossible to find, the tune2air aftermarket dongle is the way to go), and give you full control over your phone's music library. the 192 only supports a basic aux-in style bluetooth dongle, no track control. 192 units are a dime a dozen, easy to find for $100-150, and if you check junkyards often enough its pretty easy to get lucky and stumble across one. 193's were a good 400-500 only a few years ago, but are now often going for $200-300.

The downside of the 193: it never came in a b6/b7, they came out in the late 2000's. They were available in the mk2 TT's and facelift 8p A3's. The one in my car came out of a 2013 TTRS. However, the form factor is the same, and the faceplate from a 192 out of a b6/b7 is a direct swap. The AMI module also has the same form factor as the b6/b7 glovebox cd changer, so you can drop it into one of those as a direct oem fit. There's some b8 AMI's that are super cheap and easy to find, but they don't work with the RNS-E. You need the A3 version with a part number starting with 8P0.

The phone quality is perfect. From the test calls I've made, no one has any idea I'm in a car driving down the highway. However, the AMI doesn't support the phone calls. You essentially will have your phone connected to 2 bluetooth devices at the same time. The tune2air for music, as well as the oem phone module for phone integration. have a look at 8P0862335B as an example, it lives in a plastic waterproof box under the carpet in front of the passenger seat (if you want an absolute OEM install).

Android Auto/Carplay is out of the question for OEM, you'll need one of the ugly aliexpress touch screen radios for that unfortunately. And you'll lose things like the easy oem backup camera integration, park assist sensors, oem bose amp, oem phone integration, all that other good stuff.

For the backup camera, you just take the trunk handle assembly off of a Q7, and its a direct fit onto the b6 trunk. You then run switched power to that camera, along with the CVBS line up to the front of the car. Then power a cheap CVBS to RGBS conversion box, and convert that signal into the 3 color RGBS lines that plug directly into the TV Aux-In connector on the back of the RNS-E. stuart mcconnachie (pcbbc.co.uk) has a custom firmware update for the RNS-E that allows it to automatically switch to backup camera when it detects CAN-BUS packets indicating reverse gear. No tapping into your reverse lights or reverse switch the way you need to with the aftermarket head units.


Service Parts

water pump - 06A121012G - OEM
timing belt - 06B109119A - Continental PN TB306
mech timing tensioner roller - 06A109243A - can't get aftermarket from litens anymore, INA is hard to find, get whatever you think would be best if not OEM.
timing idler - 06A109181 - or just gut your hydro tensioner and replace the roller with an INA one
timing roller stud - 06B109166 - OEM
washer - N0152785 - OEM
nut - N01100840 - OEM

serpentine belt - 06D903137E - Continental PN 6K1570
serpentine tensioner - 06B903133E - INA PN FT40127
serpentine idler pulley - 06B903341B - Litens PN 900695A
serp tensioner bolts (if yours are crusty or rounded) - N0195433 - OEM (x3)

034 PCV kit for a 2005 - 034-101-3003
Extra PCV o-ring if needed for fitment - N90467301 - OEM or Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco
Coolant Flange - 06B121132E - OEM Only, no exceptions
Coolant Temp Sensor O-ring for flange - N90316802 - OEM or Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco
Cam Chain Tensioner Pads example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322583384558
Valve cover gasket set - 058198025A - Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco only
Cam chain tensioner gasket set - 058198217 - Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco only
And get a cam chain tool from ebay or amazon: https://www.ebay.com/itm/252465160352

And again for sourcing OEM parts, cross-shop https://audi.oempartsonline.com/ and https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/

[sputnik378]

Wow! Impressive stuff, thanks again! The more I learn, the more excited I am to have this little car.

I've found roof racks, wheelsets w/ hardly used 2-year-old tires, a B7 center console, B6 S4 brakes, and a steering wheel w/ buttons, all for very affordable prices locally.

get ready for a giant info dump.

RNS-E
2 main RNS-E models. 1st gen, part number ending in 192. 2nd gen, part number ending in 193. 193 is a lot less laggy, better hardware, and the screen res is 480x800 vs 240x400. the 193 also has the ability to interface with an AMI module (audi music interface) which can have a bluetooth dongle plugged in(oem option but its impossible to find, the tune2air aftermarket dongle is the way to go), and give you full control over your phone's music library. the 192 only supports a basic aux-in style bluetooth dongle, no track control. 192 units are a dime a dozen, easy to find for $100-150, and if you check junkyards often enough its pretty easy to get lucky and stumble across one. 193's were a good 400-500 only a few years ago, but are now often going for $200-300.

The downside of the 193: it never came in a b6/b7, they came out in the late 2000's. They were available in the mk2 TT's and facelift 8p A3's. The one in my car came out of a 2013 TTRS. However, the form factor is the same, and the faceplate from a 192 out of a b6/b7 is a direct swap. The AMI module also has the same form factor as the b6/b7 glovebox cd changer, so you can drop it into one of those as a direct oem fit. There's some b8 AMI's that are super cheap and easy to find, but they don't work with the RNS-E. You need the A3 version with a part number starting with 8P0.

The phone quality is perfect. From the test calls I've made, no one has any idea I'm in a car driving down the highway. However, the AMI doesn't support the phone calls. You essentially will have your phone connected to 2 bluetooth devices at the same time. The tune2air for music, as well as the oem phone module for phone integration. have a look at 8P0862335B as an example, it lives in a plastic waterproof box under the carpet in front of the passenger seat (if you want an absolute OEM install).

Android Auto/Carplay is out of the question for OEM, you'll need one of the ugly aliexpress touch screen radios for that unfortunately. And you'll lose things like the easy oem backup camera integration, park assist sensors, oem bose amp, oem phone integration, all that other good stuff.

For the backup camera, you just take the trunk handle assembly off of a Q7, and its a direct fit onto the b6 trunk. You then run switched power to that camera, along with the CVBS line up to the front of the car. Then power a cheap CVBS to RGBS conversion box, and convert that signal into the 3 color RGBS lines that plug directly into the TV Aux-In connector on the back of the RNS-E. stuart mcconnachie (pcbbc.co.uk) has a custom firmware update for the RNS-E that allows it to automatically switch to backup camera when it detects CAN-BUS packets indicating reverse gear. No tapping into your reverse lights or reverse switch the way you need to with the aftermarket head units.


Service Parts

water pump - 06A121012G - OEM
timing belt - 06B109119A - Continental PN TB306
mech timing tensioner roller - 06A109243A - can't get aftermarket from litens anymore, INA is hard to find, get whatever you think would be best if not OEM.
timing idler - 06A109181 - or just gut your hydro tensioner and replace the roller with an INA one
timing roller stud - 06B109166 - OEM
washer - N0152785 - OEM
nut - N01100840 - OEM

serpentine belt - 06D903137E - Continental PN 6K1570
serpentine tensioner - 06B903133E - INA PN FT40127
serpentine idler pulley - 06B903341B - Litens PN 900695A
serp tensioner bolts (if yours are crusty or rounded) - N0195433 - OEM (x3)

034 PCV kit for a 2005 - 034-101-3003
Extra PCV o-ring if needed for fitment - N90467301 - OEM or Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco
Coolant Flange - 06B121132E - OEM Only, no exceptions
Coolant Temp Sensor O-ring for flange - N90316802 - OEM or Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco
Cam Chain Tensioner Pads example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322583384558
Valve cover gasket set - 058198025A - Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco only
Cam chain tensioner gasket set - 058198217 - Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco only
And get a cam chain tool from ebay or amazon: https://www.ebay.com/itm/252465160352

And again for sourcing OEM parts, cross-shop https://audi.oempartsonline.com/ and https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/

Amazing... Clearly, you've got some experience. It looks like I came to the right place.

I'm working on carts this week and will order everything suggested to do the work the next time I can get rack space at my buddy's shop.

Do you have a suggested order of operations? I'm hoping to do all this in 1 day and it's always a bummer learning the hard way about a shortcut or simplification of the process that can usually only be learned from experience.

Here's the link to the 034 breather kit.

https://www.034motorsport.com/breath...-silicone.html

They offer like three for the AMB but this is the one for the late AMB as you have a 2005.

Another thing that comes to mind...check the intake side of the head...if Coscast is stamped on the side I would almost consider looking around for a replacement head (one that is from an AWM engine is popular, but any small port head will work) as the Coscast heads are notorious for cracking for no good reason. Usually around #2 cylinder.

Thank you for the link, I really appreciate that.

I like the color of G13 better. What can I say?
I completely forgot that one. I used industrial-strength, slow-setting epoxy to bond those hinges back on. Some Dremel work with a sanding drum rounded out that job.

I do love spending time with Epoxy and my Dremel! I'll add this to the list after completing the 100k service work.

[sputnik378]

timing belt - 06B109119A - Continental PN TB306
Valve cover gasket set - 058198025A - Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco only
Cam chain tensioner gasket set - 058198217 - Elring/VictorReinz/Corteco only

All these part numbers you listed say they are for a different vehicle, so I wanted to double-check as I'm sure you have a better idea than I do.

[Gunnarrrrr]

yeah no they’re good. I’d be cross shopping rock auto and fcp for the non oem stuff. Only thing i’m not totally sure about is that water pump… I’m seeing this one with a “GU” suffix and they’re only $50 from the usual oem sellers (genuineaudiparts and oempartsonline), not sure what the difference is though. For $50 Id say go for it. If you do though, take pics. I’m curious. I’ve got another 1.8t being built up and I’m going new for everything.

edit: the $50 now seems to be for 06A-121-011-TU

There also seems to be an LU and an HU

I have no idea what the U is

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