Manual swap in a 2007 S4 convertible

[Matthewest91]

You can chop off the auto trans connector pigtail.
And simply run the connector for the reverse light switch along the wiring harness to the manual trans.

You need to make a jumper wire in place of the first relay in the ecu box for the shifter lock.

And then tie into the ecu pin 39 down to the clutch switch. Which gets power from the brake pedal switch.
The blue clutch switch in the back does not get used.

The other end of the reverse lights.
One goes to pin 7 on the connector under the driver carpet. (In the box)
And the other wire (power) you get from the back of the fuse box, fuse 31


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[Matthewest91]

JHM shifter adjustment solved.

The silver piece that bolts to the shifter rod has teeth on the underside. Those teeth imprint the shift rod, you need to smooth the those imprints out so that fine adjustments can be made.
I simply took some sand paper and smoothed them out.







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[xpl0sive]

glad you got that figured out. Any issues pop up since? Did you remove the automatic shifter lockout cable that's in the center console?

[Matthewest91]

You need a t8 long bit screw driver small enough to fit up in the steering column over which I needed to order.
So for now I just cut the cable and will remove the remaining when the driver gets here.

No issues. No codes. All is good


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[Matthewest91]

This was the 3rd manual swap I’ve done.
2 b7 and a b6.

That’s why it went so fast.


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[Matthewest91]

And now that I’m thinking about it, those coding details that I provided were for a B7.
The b6 is slightly different because it has Bosch 5.7 abs vs the Bosch 8.0 the b7 has.

It’s just as simple.
But there might be a little more needed in the abs module for the steering angle Calibration.
You can find that on the 5.7 abs coding YouTube channel vcds offers


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[xpl0sive]

I am doing a B7... my S4 cab is a 2007.

[Matthewest91]

There is a fault stored in vcds for the rear clutch pedal switch.
The one closest to the fire wall is basically void because of the jumper wire that replaces the shift lock relay. It does not throw a check engine light. But just thought I let everyone know who reads this. In case you want to figure that out differently.
Right now you can start the car without pressing the clutch pedal. Which is an awesome feature. So I will leave it


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[xpl0sive]

I wonder if it's possible to wire it up correctly. I don't want to have any error codes

[Gunnarrrrr]

It’s not an awesome feature because whenever I let someone drive my car they leave it in first and I forget to check, and I lurch my car forward on the starters power every time. It can be wired correctly but it’s a pain


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[Matthewest91]

Don’t forget lol


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[xpl0sive]

His notes







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Which connector is this guy referring to by “Tip Switch”? I’d like to re-use as much of the existing wiring as possible

[Matthewest91]

Believe it’s the connector on the auto shifter assembly. (Driver side)

He did tell me that he was unsure if those notes were 100 percent. He said he thought so but to just double check


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[xpl0sive]

I started working on the wiring for all this stuff.
So far I've found the following.
On the manual harness, there is a green/gray wire that goes to pin 39 on the black ECM connector. From there it goes to pin 11 on the red connector.
On the automatic harness, there is no wire in pin 39 of the ECM connector. There is the same color wire in pin 11 of the red connector, but I haven't figured out where it goes yet.
Trying to figure out what actually is needed. The two sets of instructions seem to contradict each other. Do I need to run a wire from pin 39 of the ECM connector to the red connector? Or does it need to go to relay 1.2?

[Gunnarrrrr]

do you guys not have the wiring diagrams from erwin or something? I can upload them and post a link if you need it.


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[Matthewest91]

Please do bro
That would help out for sure


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[xpl0sive]

I have all the wiring diagrams from ErWin. I’m just trying to understand the concept of how the two clutch switches are wired

[GTPlus]

I started working on the wiring for all this stuff.
So far I've found the following.
On the manual harness, there is a green/gray wire that goes to pin 39 on the black ECM connector. From there it goes to pin 11 on the red connector.

All of my manual harnesses had ECU Pin 39 go to PIN 9 of the red connector, this then goes to F36 Clutch switch. You can use the Tiptronic selector switch harness wire (Green/grey) to feed F36

On the automatic harness, there is no wire in pin 39 of the ECM connector. There is the same color wire in pin 11 of the red connector, but I haven't figured out where it goes yet.
Trying to figure out what actually is needed. The two sets of instructions seem to contradict each other. Do I need to run a wire from pin 39 of the ECM connector to the red connector? Or does it need to go to relay 1.2?

Red connector PIN 11 goes to the transmission control module on the engine side and the selector switch on the cabin side. You can use this wire to feed the F194 Clutch starter interlock relay. If you are converting and auto engine Harness, then you need transfer the wire on PIN 11 red connector, originally going to the TCU, to the relay 1.2

Just remember there two clutch switches, F36 pedal switch and F194 Interlock. F194 prevents starting without depressing the clutch, and runs to the relay 1.2 through Pin 11 of the red connector. F36 is the switch used to turn off cruise, it runs to PIN 39 of the ECU through PIN 9 of the red connector.

[xpl0sive]

thanks for your response. so on the other side of the red connector (inside the car), the automatic harness has the gray/white wire going to the shifter area? Do you just pull that single wire out and use it for the clutch switch F36?

For the current automatic relay 1.2 wiring, what do you do with the brown/yellow wire that currently goes into pin 1 of relay 1.2 connector?
Do you just remove it and use a wire from pin 11 of the red connector?

[GTPlus]

thanks for your response. so on the other side of the red connector (inside the car), the automatic harness has the gray/white wire going to the shifter area? Do you just pull that single wire out and use it for the clutch switch F36?

Yes, I used the grey/white, green/grey, and a couple of the ground wires from the shifter, think those were brown and black/brown. The grey/white went to relay F194, and green/grey went to F36. Just confirm your F36 goes to pin 39 on ECU and F194 goes to the relay.

For the current automatic relay 1.2 wiring, what do you do with the brown/yellow wire that currently goes into pin 1 of relay 1.2 connector?
Do you just remove it and use a wire from pin 11 of the red connector?

That is what I did. The brown/yellow wire runs to the TCU connector in the auto harness and can be removed.

[xpl0sive]

Slowly getting there. Got the pedals in, engine in, engine side wiring is done. Gonna make sure I've got the clutch bled fully before I connect too much stuff. That bleed nipple is impossible to reach unless the engine is slightly down. How much free play is there supposed to be in the clutch pedal? I've been pushing it down by hand, it seems to have good pressure and comes back up on it's own.

[Matthewest91]

I bleed the clutch while I’m dropping the engine in.
I feel it’s a pain to install the slave when it’s pressurized.

But in terms of being bled, gravity drain it and then bleed in one or two times, on the last bleed pump the pedal a few times and then let it sit 25 mins before the final bleed.
It also helps to have the rear of the car a bit higher than the front.

If the pedal comes back up on its own I’d say you’re probably good.

Nice pedals


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[xpl0sive]

I used my vacuum bleeder, sucked about a liter through the slave. It just kept pulling air. I pushed on the clutch a few times and sucked a bit more fluid through. It feels ok now, I was just concerned about the bleeder continuing to pull air. It may have just pulling it from the bleeder, hard to say.

[ShelbyM3]

Reverse bleed the clutch line. It’s the way to go. Force fluid up through the bleed nipple into the reservoir. Air bubbles don’t want to travel down the system, they want to go up.


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[GTPlus]

I would highly recommend a pressure bleeder. Makes bleeding the clutch immensely easier as well as any future brake work.

[xpl0sive]

Well good news the car runs. I just did enough to get the engine started just to make sure I have a clutch and don’t have to drop the whole thing back down again
My only issue right now is it’s starting without pushing the clutch down. I wired everything as per the factory wiring diagram. My relay 1.2 is still in place, not jumped. Gonna mess around with it a bit and see what I can figure out

[Matthewest91]

Well good news the car runs. I just did enough to get the engine started just to make sure I have a clutch and don’t have to drop the whole thing back down again
My only issue right now is it’s starting without pushing the clutch down. I wired everything as per the factory wiring diagram. My relay 1.2 is still in place, not jumped. Gonna mess around with it a bit and see what I can figure out

It’s all down hill from here


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[xpl0sive]

What module do you have the stored code for your secondary clutch switch? I want to try and read the data stream from that module to see if the switch is responding

[Matthewest91]

What module do you have the stored code for your secondary clutch switch? I want to try and read the data stream from that module to see if the switch is responding

Engine.
It originally took some time for it to pop up


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[xpl0sive]

Looked at my photos and videos and I think I have wires in pins 9 and 11 on the red plug swapped places. Will double check, hopefully that's it.

[xpl0sive]

Figured it out, my blue clutch switch is bad. It always has continuity, that’s why the car starts without the clutch pressed. When I unplug the switch, the car does not turn over. So I’ve got all my wiring correct, just need a new switch

[Matthewest91]

You gonna take some pictures for the next guy?

So what’s left ? Reverse lights


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[Matthewest91]

I haven’t figured out the clutch/ brake pedal style switches out. It seems like when you remove one it brakes.
This last time I tried pushing in the plunger while spinning it out on removal to see if that helped. But haven’t tested to see if it’s functional.


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[xpl0sive]

Nope, I’ve got the reverse lights done they work fine. I’m making videos for my YouTube channel. I’ll also just make a quick video right now just of the wiring in case someone wants to do it the factory way

[Matthewest91]

You should.
So have you compared it to the guys notes I posted?
I’ll touch back with that guy and let him know


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[Matthewest91]

If his notes are way off. I’m wondering if he used a manual wire harness, I can’t recall what he told me


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[xpl0sive]

His notes are good, just a bit confusing and out of order. You really only need 4 wires to make everything work as it should. Of course it helps having another complete harness you can rob some pins from.

[Matthewest91]

I want to see how you did it.

I know when I wired up the reverse lights it was a bitch working under the drivers carpet.


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[GTPlus]

I haven’t figured out the clutch/ brake pedal style switches out. It seems like when you remove one it brakes.
This last time I tried pushing in the plunger while spinning it out on removal to see if that helped. But haven’t tested to see if it’s functional.


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There is a lock that releases inside the switches to make them self adjusting. You are supposed to pull the plunger all the way out on an OEM one before installing, otherwise they can become damaged. Though some of the replacement ones I have used don't have this type design.

FYI those are my notes from a while back. They were not in order since I was just jotting them down in notepad as I went. lol

[Matthewest91]

Hey buddy, there you are!
That’s funny, I guess I don’t need to touch base with you


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