2010 Audi S5 4.2l V8 p2006 p2007

[jaybx2]

As stated above in the title, i've ran into the issue of having both codes P2006 and P2007 pop up with a solid check engine light. Not sure what exactly causes this issue but the car does not idle rough at all, does not misfire, no loss of power, and drives perfectly fine. The car does indeed have 88k miles but before I start taking stuff off, I would like some suggestions of possible fixes on what can be causing both codes to pop up. Any help would be appreciated :)

[jxyjimmy]

Check out this post on A5OC: https://www.a5oc.com/threads/2009-au...d-p2007.54553/

from what i was reading it could be a cracked vacuum line or a disconnected line. Have a look around, it is also a problem by the looks of it as well for the a6: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...r-Stuck-Closed

[jaybx2]

i was thinking the same thing or it could have something to do with the solenoids but I am not too sure because again, car doesn't idle rough, no misfire, no loss of power, and drives fine. i've read thru so many forums and found people finding some fixes but they didn't describe the symptoms they were having so its hard for me to tell what needs to get looked at

[jxyjimmy]

I would first check the vacuum lines as they seem to be a common point of failure in the s5/a6/s6 around the same year, if it isnt that it would be the solenoids

[jaybx2]

im gonna check that out tomorrow in the morning but if there is nothing wrong with the vacuum lines, what solenoids would need to be changed out?

[jxyjimmy]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...lenoid-Testing

Pretty sure this post answers it but ill have a look for it in some documentation

[jxyjimmy]

What is you engine code along with model number and transmission number. im going to look it up. for my car its code is something along the lines of CDNC. It should be in your service book and also located in the trunk where the spare wheel is located

[jxyjimmy]

https://www.getaudiparts.com/oem-par...alve-37906283c

This is the part youll need to get if it is the solenoid. Part number 037-906-283-C. Here are some possible points of where they can be located:
Loc 1
Loc 2

For repair guides you will need to check out erWin, you have to pay for the usage but you can print/save anything on there when you pay for access so you can save everything to pdf if you really want to. It is better to go through them as you can dial your car model, i believe they also have issues to specific car models as well on there:
https://audi.erwin-store.com/erwin

Keep me posted on if you end up finding a solution

[jaybx2]

Okay heres an update, I went to a mechanic that specializes in foreign cars, I paid for a diagnostic, and they told me I need to replace the lower left and lower right portion of the intake manifold so not the entire manifold. The mechanic was telling me how the flaps were only opening half way

[jaybx2]

079133109BC - left
079133110BC - right

are the part numbers needed but I can't seem to find them online priced fairly.. i am seeing them for almost 1200 just for ONE

[jaybx2]

do you know where I can get left and right manifolds that aren't OEM?

[mauromj]

You likely do not need new right/left manifolds. Just because they are stuck close, does not mean those are the culprit.

I have my car tore apart now with the same issue. My flaps actuate just fine by hand, which tells me I either have a vacuum leak (bad hose), or a bad solenoid. I am changing out all the vacuum hose and have also purchased new Pierburg (OEM) solenoid valves.

Before putting the manifolds (lowers and upper), I plan to actuate each solenoid (3 total for a 2012 late manifold car) with a MightyVac to ensure they are actuating properly.

Feel free to reach out with any questions. Happy to help walk you through this, as there is little to no useful information online about this problem.

[jaybx2]

do you think it really is just the solenoids? the mechanic who specializes in foreign cars straight up just told me that the flaps were only opening half way and when i asked if maybe it was a solenoid issue, all he said was that the left and right manifolds need to be changed out. I’m not too sure how to go about ngl. but i did find someone selling a used intake manifold assembly for 650$, the entire thing, but now i’m hesitant because maybe it is just a solenoid issue. if so, how many would i need and if there’s any info i should know, pls lmk.

[mauromj]

Yes. But regardless, I would pull it all apart and see for yourself.

I went into mine thinking the flaps were stuck/disintegrated. I too was afraid of having to by a new upper (very expensive) and lower manifolds. Everything was in great shape for 120K miles.

This is a pretty involved job. This engine is a challenge to work on, so make sure you are up for the job. Take your time and do everything right.

[jaybx2]

i’m stuck on what to do.. but you were getting p2006 and p2007 as well? and is there a way i can see if the flaps move fine or anything like that without removing the manifold. this is really annoying. and is there also a way to check if it genuinely is a solenoid issue

[Willi_must]

Not sure if you figured it out yet but on the off chance you haven't I ran into this same issue a while ago with my 2008 S5 4.2L V8. Your car and my car should have an almost identical intake manifold with the same runners and actuator. For starters, no it is not a vacuum leak, the runners are all controlled electronically. My issue was that m runner control actuator was completely broken and needed replacing. This is the one I bought for $200 and it works great https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=17824&jsn=595.

Your issue may be different but there are ways to check. For starters, when you start your car, after a few seconds you should see the actuator move and the position of the runners change. I cant remember if it moves from fully open to fully closed or fully closed to fully open but regardless they should move through their full range of motion. You can see this happen where the actuator connects to the position sensors. These are visible at the front outside of the manifold above cylinders 1 and 5. If it moves your runner control actuator is probably fine. If it doesn't, then you are going to have to dig a little deeper. Disconnected the runner control arms from the runners so that you can open and close the runners by hand. They should both turn about 45 degrees freely. If they don't, that's your problem and you will need to take the manifold off and take it apart to figure out what is preventing the runner from moving. Id be very surprised if the issue is with the runners. Its far more likely that the runner control is broken.

Regardless of what you find the problem is you are going to have to remove the intake manifold to fix whatever is broken. This is not an easy task and it will take some finesse but if you have the time and patience you are going to save a ton of money compared to taking it to a shop. While you have it off, I recommend doing a few preventative maintenance things.

The first relatively easy and cheap thing I would do, is clean your throttle body.

The second, thing I would check/do is make sure there is not a ton of carbon buildup on your intake valves. If there is, you should clean it. cleaning this is relatively cheap but it is difficult and time consuming. You should be able to do this with a drill, zip ties, and some liqui molly carbon buildup remover. Just look up a few YouTube videos on how to do it with the zip ties and you should be good. In the YouTube videos they should tell you that you need to make sure the valves are fully closed before pouring the liqui molly in there. On the off-chance they don't, you need to make sure the valves are fully closed before putting the liqui molly in there or you will destroy your engine.

The final thing I would do is pull the injectors and get them tested and cleaned if necessary. https://crazyfuelinjectiondragparts.com/ This is the place I'm taking my injectors too and it costs $240 to get them all done. This should keep your engine running well and also prevent leaks and misfires. Unfortunately I learned it probably would have been a good idea to do this the first time I took the manifold off the hard way because my injectors are currently causing misfires and gas is leaking into my oil so I have to pull the manifold all over again just to get at the stupid injectors so I can get them cleaned.

Hopefully this helps, if you want any more information or have any questions let me know.

[mauromj]

Something to keep in mind. Hitachi injectors (what our cars use) have been found to age poorly and loose performance over time. https://theinjectorshop.com/blogs/ne...ector-failures

I opted to replace, rather than clean. $800 and only having to do the job once is more appealing to me compared to $2-300 to clean, and potentially still having to replace (not to mention all the time of pulling the manifold off again...)

As of today, this seems to be the best price: https://eeuroparts.com/product/hitac...xoCjzEQAvD_BwE

Be careful. Dont buy off eBay. Lots of fakes out there. OEM/Hitatchi is the only way to go for parts like this.

[Willi_must]

Something to keep in mind. Hitachi injectors (what our cars use) have been found to age poorly and loose performance over time. https://theinjectorshop.com/blogs/ne...ector-failures

I opted to replace, rather than clean. $800 and only having to do the job once is more appealing to me compared to $2-300 to clean, and potentially still having to replace (not to mention all the time of pulling the manifold off again...)

As of today, this seems to be the best price: https://eeuroparts.com/product/hitac...xoCjzEQAvD_BwE

Be careful. Dont buy off eBay. Lots of fakes out there. OEM/Hitatchi is the only way to go for parts like this.

Yeah you could just replace them too. if you don't mind spending the money and you really don't wanna pull the manifold again then you might as well. at the very least the cleaning will help make those injectors last longer and its not very expensive to do so compared to just buying new ones.