Project: Sequel

[rockcandy]

Glossary for topics as I cover them
If you see a red post number next to it, it's covered and listed. If not, I just haven't gotten to it yet. I'll also include a direct link where I purchased for the companies I've chosen to support, if one is available.

Vehicle Mod list/Glossary if specifically already covered

1. Custom Procharger kit designed and built by me (VAST AZ) utilizing a Procharger D-1SC head unit, including 2.7l Bi Turbo intake Manifold Conversion
Got the head unit from Bob @ Brute Speed. He's very helpful
https://shop.brutespeed.com/ati-pc05...ati-pc051a-001
2. 1,500hp Air to Water intercooler, built by Shearer Fabrications. Post 34
https://shearerfabrications.com/prod...92b39910&_ss=c
3. 5 gallon water/Ice box, built by Shearer Fabrications.
https://shearerfabrications.com/products/sf06-04010
4. Fueling from Deatschwerks with a brushless 440 pump/PWM controller, with their programmable dual pump voltage booster. It is fed by a factory fuel pump.
https://deatschwerks.com/products/9-441-c103-0900
https://deatschwerks.com/products/4-00-vb40ax2
5. Radium Engineering Surge Tank with integrated fuel pressure regulator.
https://www.radiumauto.com/FSTR-RA-F...ted-P2768.aspx
6. 034 Motorsport Lightweight Brake rotors Post 16
7. 034 Motorsport Billet engine mounts
8. 034 Motorsport transmission mounts
9. Single 4" Aluminum Exhaust with 3" downpipes built by me Post 8
10. VAST AZ custom headers with integrated individual EGT sensors
11. QA1 rear shocks, dual adjustable Post 25
12. 034 Motorsport suspension coils
13. 034 Motorsport front suspension arm kit with Adjustable upper arms
14. VAST AZ forged beadlock wheels (17x9) with 275/40/17 Hoosier DR2 Post 9
15. JXB Center Driveshaft Support
16. JXB Wavetrac Rear Differential
17. ZF8 conversion
18. 034 Motorsport Camshaft kit
19. VAST AZ ported heads
20. 3.2l stroker engine utilizing OTS Diamond Audi R8 pistons
21. ECU contol provided by Syvecs OEX running alongside the factory computer
https://www.syvecs.com/product/syvecs-oex/
22. CAN integrated Individual EGT sensors from ECU Master
https://ecumasterusa.com/products/ec...BoChWEQAvD_BwE
23. EGT Sensors from The Sensor Connection
https://thesensorconnection.com/prod...diameter?v=535
24. Custom Aluminum Radiator meant for a Ford with both hose connections on drivers side
25. Divorced transmission coolant lines from radiator, with external cooler
26. Deleted factory oil filter and cooler. Used VAST AZ oil cooler/oil filter delete and Relocated new filter unit to drivers side "frame rail"
https://motionraceworks.com/products...ont-load-5-901
27. Motion Raceworks catch can
https://motionraceworks.com/products...can-dual-10-an
29. 8 rib pulley conversion to accomodate the standard procharger Post 27
30. Lightweight Group 48 Lithium battery Post 30
I'll add details as I go....


Latest 2 video uploads on the subject

If it's a "short", sometimes it won't let me embed it. Click the link if one is present.



https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ZiHFbksGtbc












What's up Audizine! Let me introduce myself. I'm Rockcandy, Marshall, or VAST AZ depending on where you know me from. Welcome to project "Sequel"! I like to tell stories, so I'm going to give you a little history before diving into the current status of my 2015 Audi S4. I've always been a B5 guy before this car. In fact, I've probably had a dozen of them sprinkled with a C6 RS6 and some plain old A6's and a Q7 on top. My history goes fairly far back with Audi's, as I was working on B5 S4's in the dealer since they were still under warranty. Ahhhhhhh yes, the good ol days. I remember swearing them off back then. Telling myself someone would have to be an absolute idiot to own one of those piles of junk. My days were filled with engine reseals, motor mounts, axle seals, cv boots, and suspension bushings. The hours were good, but because of this, the B5 just always seemed like a piece of junk to me. Then one day, a customer traded one in with "blown turbos" and I got a screaming deal on it as a tech, since the dealer didn't want to fix it. That's when the bug REALLY hit me.

It was bone stock, minus the stage 2 tune that the original owner had put on there. After fixing it up back to driver status, the mods quickly started flowing in. Back then, K04 turbos were the bees knees and everyone wanted AWE stuff on their B5. The car instantly turned into my wife's daily driver while I kept on driving my Jeep. That's a totally different addiction I had. I pretty much ran through the typical catalog of mods from RS6 turbos, to H&r/bilstein suspension, wheels, methanol, cosmetics, interior swap, B7 RS4 brakes etc etc etc. As the years wore on, my wife drove the wheels off of it, including racing on Friday nights and even raced it on Pinks All Out for you old timers that remember that show. She popped a trans a few days before the race and I slammed in our spare, which had a very difficult to access second gear. :( So the show was a flop, but she had a ton of fun doing it and our Friday nights. Our only son at the time really solidified his racing spirit throughout all of it. He was probably only 3 by this point. Fast forward to today and he has his own B5 S4 avant with K04 turbos and all the fixins!



That was kind of life. Pretty easy going and full of "time" to do what we wanted. Though we always said "we are so busy". Just like many of you, no doubt.



....

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[rockcandy]

Then somewhere along the way, I convinced my wife to let me steal her car and "build it" again. lol. Just a little more extreme. It spawned into a back halfed, RWD converted, GM trans converted, big single turbo, monster.

It evolved into this at some point, but then life got in the way and it took a backseat to everything else. Mostly building cars for other people in my business. It has it's own build thread in the B5 section, though most of the links are dead from long long ago. I never ended up driving the car in this status. I removed all the running gear and shredded the chassis. Weird time in life...

[rockcandy]

Fast forward quite a few years of life, we had a few more kids, moves, health issues, work was as busy as ever and we had long grown out of building race cars for our personal use. So we thought...

Enter Project Sequel. I picked up a 2015 Audi S4 about 5 years ago with the intent of doing a little development on it while I daily drove it and it has since grown into one of my favorite cars to date. I've had a lot of cars over the years, so that says a lot for me. It started simple, same as before. Wheels, H&r springs, go fast mods etc. I drug it into my business with Cerakote valve cover kits and ported superchargers, which is what most of this group might know me from.

[rockcandy]

I machined out the hub center from a set of my B5 wheels so they would fit by B8.5. Looked pretty good, but definitely monster truck style. I ended up installing some H&R springs on it not long after this photo was taken. They were okay. Not that bad riding, but we do have very smooth roads in the Phoenix area, so it makes them work nicer than they actually are. lol

[rockcandy]

I started with some easy things. Maintenance items I could add my personal flair to. That's when Cerakote valve covers were born! I replaced the hideous factory oil cap with a genuine R8 unit and a factory black coolant cap to eliminate the blue. I use to drive this car a lot. It was a little underwhelming for me at first coming from the land of "big power" (all relative), but it quickly grew on me as the mods started flowing in.

[rockcandy]

I did the typical mods on the car, but didn't bother to take pictures of it along the way. That's not what's going to be interesting about this thread anyway. I threw in a JHM HX upgrade along with their 207mm pulley, CAP test pipes, Autotech HPFP upgrade, performed a mild port on the blower and had the car custom tuned on our local E50 pump gas. That's what they use to keep at most ethanol locations in the Phoenix area. The car drove nicely and ended up making ~475 wheel on a mustang dyno on that tune. Skip to 28 seconds in the video for the goods.

[rockcandy]

After the first year of ownership, I was looking for a little more out of the car. I went away from the custom e50 file I had gotten locally and jumped into a 034 Motorsport Ecu/tcu file. The new trans file was pretty freakin sweet. I was putting down some pretty good times in the quarter mile for a daily driver by this point. The drivability was really nice and the power was very smooth and linear. I had driven other files on lots of 3.0 cars and most of them always felt jumpy. Like the throttle is damn near fully open when you only have it pressed 1/3 of the way down. Some people seem to love that and think it's fast. I think its just a crappy driver. I like to drive nice and soft, like a grandpa when I want to and that style of file doesn't lend well to it at all. I live in a city of 7 million plus people and traffic is non stop. I'm not interested in response like that.


It had dipped into the tens full weight by now so I was feeling pretty decent about the car. I just enjoyed the car for a while at this point. I drove on the 034 files for 4 years without a single issue. I'm a maintenance junkie so everything was preemptively done along the way. Remember, I have lots of years as an Audi tech telling me what I should do, before it's a problem for me. haha


This is how I left off on my 2024 season. Big plans were coming for 2025 and I am looking to absolutely decimate any existing records or "supposed records" people keep to themselves. Lucky for me, my background in building cars tells me it shouldn't be too hard with my pocket of tricks.







People have asked me about that intake before so here are some details. I have my 85mm CNC Hemi TB on the car and I made the intake from 4" aluminum with a velocity stack and an AFE Power filter part number 21-90039. I had some issues with the filter wanting to walk off the bellmouth of the velocity stack, so I knurled it in the lathe to give the filter something to grab on to.

[rockcandy]

2025 dreams had been cooking for a bit up to this point. I had been collecting parts, ideas, and drawings to move forward with the build. I had a few smaller things I needed to knock out. 1. Easy weight loss in a lithium battery. Banging amazon deal for $300. Group 48 lithium start stop battery that weighs 16 lb. It's been in the car now for 10 months and hasn't even wimpered. Sounds like it could easily crank an engine twice the size as mine. Dropped basically 50lb for less than the cost of having your battery replaced in a shop. I also fired up the ol tig and built 3" stainless downpipes to a single 4" aluminum exhaust with two mufflers. Shed another 50+lb and sounds bitchin imo. I definitely need to do something with the single exhaust tip though. Doesn't look at home. At all. lol. Twin tips and an A4 valence are on the to do list one day, but for now, pushing on with the 2025 plans.

[rockcandy]

At this point, I had also been testing our new Forged Monoblock beadlock wheels specifically designed for the B8 chassis for the better part of 2024. No centering rings, no spacers, and cherry fit for a 275 drag radial all around. Let's go baby! 17x9 and 20.0lb flat. Beefy where you need them for street use, even though it's a track wheel, but light enough with a specific function to keep the tire from spinning on the wheel. Iiiiiiiiiif I can hear the "YoU Don'T NeED BeadLOcKs on A B8!! from your internet voice now, keep that crap to yourself, because it will be needed.......

[rockcandy]

We had wrapped up 2024 by installing a devils own Methanol Injection kit and upgraded the JHM HX to a Merc Racing setup. The latest greatest big ol S6 unit. The car was then equipped with a 250cc nozzle right after the TB and a 600cc nozzle in the bypass elbow. It worked great! This video is up to date through the end of 2024/beginning of 2025. The car was running like a top and was ready for the next big phase....

[rockcandy]

Okay, so here is where the thread gets interesting imo. I have a few goals for the immediate time frame and some for later this year, but I had acquired some parts over the years waiting for this very moment. The immediate goal is to make 800whp so it's faster than my B5. To do that, I have some things on deck that include a one of a kind Procharger kit, designed and built by me, a stroker engine, upgraded fueling system, alternate ECU control, and some miscellaneous supporting mods. Not all of it is required, but this will be an example of what things could be, if you wanted. There is a fair amount of fabrication and machining involved, but if you would like to do something similar or even use some of the parts I developed along the way, we can talk. I have already made a bunch of the Procharger brackets, intake adapters, etc, but was kind of waiting to show you the results before making them available. Just understand this IS NOT bolt on. I will be pointing out several things along the way that I did not pursue as I was designing the kit, but it will give you some ideas of what you might be able to do differently, such as a turbo conversion, or using an air to air intercooler, etc. The cool thing about this thread is that the car is already running, so you don't have to worry that its not going to be completed. It is just a matter of me finding time to post and give notes about what I was doing along the way.

[rockcandy]

So why a procharger?



This picture is of one of my turbos rated for ~1k hp and the procharger ~925
I've always been a turbo guy. For the last couple decades, almost every car I've owned that I liked was a turbo of some sort. When I use to build more cars for people in the shop, I installed a lot of these procharger kits on American cars and always thought they were very cool. The noise was AWESOME, they looked cool, and they were pretty efficient. So its always lurked in the back of my head as an "I want one" kind of thing. So to be quite honest, I had no interest in doing a turbo conversion on the car, but I knew the roots wasn't going to cut it. AT ALL. I am not even kidding you when I say I spent hours just staring at the engine bay top to bottom, before I ever even took a pencil to paper. I'm no stranger to fabwork, but a few things stuck out to me against a turbo swap. I've seen no less than 10 B5 s4's burn to the ground online from people doing these swaps. While there are ways to absolutely prevent this and insulate things, I really wanted to avoid some of those headaches. Some people have already bought nice headers and gone through the effort to yank an engine to install them, so it would be cool if you could still utilize all that. Spent money on a nice exhaust system? No problem, this doesn't change any of that. I also REALLY wanted the procharger sticking out either in a headlight location or a fog light grill area. Why? Cause it looks bad ass and I love it. Do I care if you can't fit a headlight back in? I sure don't. Sorry. Perk of becauseracecar. Is it possible to pick up a rock? Sure, but this is going to be used to race 98% of the time. If I'm going to drive it out in traffic, I can pop on a little filter like an HKS unit on the compressor housing. This isn't rocket science. So save the rockgobbler comments for someone else. I do live in the desert so I don't exactly have to worry about driving in the rain. Though the car rolls on Hoosiers, so the odds of me being out in our rare rain is zero.

[rockcandy]

I chose a D-1SC Procharger to start with. Originally, I was trying to decide between this unit and a D-1X. the D-1x is rated at 1075hp. After talking with a couple of techs at Procharger and some trusted guys that deal with Prochargers on the daily, I opted for the D-1sc in order to keep more mid range in the car, while forgoing a little top end. I may regret this later, but I think this is going to achieve my goals of running deep 9s pretty easily. I also have some other tricks up my sleeve that I'll get to later.

The procharger isn't all that heavy, given its capacity.

[rockcandy]

I knew getting rid of the factory blower was going to net me a few perks, but I obviously had to come up with some solutions for an intake manifold. A huge perk of ditching the blower is that I wouldn't be reliant on the thin failure prone supercharger "bricks" that work kinda mehhhhh and can disintegrate and get fed to your engine, potentially chucking a motor. I had some leftover parts from projects over the years, so I was really going to be able to play around a little with the design phase of this and see what I liked best. I mentally thought through the pros and conc for an air to air intercooler compared to an air to water. A few things for each


Air to Air:
1. Simple
2. very cost effective
3. allows you to eliminate a bunch of weight and removing parts from the car such as HX, water pump, and the plumbing
4. You can pick up used ones all day every day making it even cheaper
5. It's not quite as effective as an air to water

Air to water:
1. More complicated plumbing
2. extra cost
3. more weight
4. more effective than an air to air
5. Allows you to utilize an ice box or interchiller type device
6. Simpler to plumb for intake (more on that later)


In the end, I opted for efficiency and wanting an ice box to deal with IAT. This was a battle for me as I typically err on "simplicity" to prevent potential failures. I will show a little bit of both in the thread.

[rockcandy]

In kicking around design ideas, I had decided I wanted it in the lower passenger foglight grill. This presented a couple immediate issues I knew I would have to work around in the design process.

1. Potential interference with the lower radiator hose
2. Potential interference with the transmission cooler lines
3. Potential "frame" issues with the Procharger bracketry


All of those things were down in the general area of where I wanted everything to be. Dangit. lol Oh well, quit being a baby and make a fast car, I say. This is where I am going to say, I would LOVE LOVE LOVE the 3.0T community to get more involved with fabrication. It's kind of weird to spend almost a couple decades now with B5's where fabrication, engine bay shaves, custom turbo kits, etc etc etc are common place. I'll admit, I haven't seen much work beyond bolt ons for the B8 community. This has to change if you actually want a fast car. The reality is we all have to start somewhere. Even if that means you pick up a used harbor freight welder on craigslist for $150 DO IT! You aren't going to be producing dime stacks right away or anything, but I'll only razz you a little. I'll mostly give you a high 5 for manning up to do it though. If I could recommend a few tools that are absolutely must haves, I'd say a bandsaw, again a cheapie will work, though nicer blades are absolutely worth it. Get a decent drill and drill bits, a die grinder and lube. Most newbies start using a die grinder with the wrong bits or not using lube on the burrs. If your burr is clogging up, you need more lube. It keeps it from becoming hot and sticky. WD40 works okay, though there are nicer alternatives. These few basics will allow you to start forming metal and sticking it together!

[rockcandy]

To do this process, I had a spare engine that allowed me to test at least the basic ideas, before ever tearing down the car. Starting a big project without everything laid out and ready to go has become a huge no no for me over the years, for various reasons. It has always led to a project that takes much longer than it should. That's incredibly frustrating and deflating for progress momentum.

While I was in the design phase, there were a couple mods that were blended with maintenance and performance that went on the car. When it was time to do a brake job, I replaced the rotors with 034 Motorsport lightweight rotors all the way around and stoptech pads. They're sufficient for me. I don't do twisty or road course stuff so pad selection isn't something I spend much time on. Throughout this project, I was looking for way to optimize weight, without ruining drivability or comfort, unless it was way worth it. The rotors were a perfect pitstop to shed a few lbs and pick up some speed in the quarter mile. Up to this point I have probably logged and draggy'd the car hundreds of times, so I had a very good idea of what "best run" looked like. After the rotor swap all the way around, I believe I picked up a consistent 1.5mph trap speed. Totally worth it IMO, plus they look bad ass.

[rockcandy]

The idea behind a procharger seemed pretty simple to me. You need a pulley system to lay out your belt design, a couple backets, a tensioner, an intercooler, and an intake. Of course none of it exists for the 3.0T, so I was on my own for that part. Which is fine. For starters, prochargers are all designed around 8,10, or 12 rib systems, cog drives, or direct drives. The only feasible one in my head is an 8 rib setup. Which if you paid attention during your pulley upgrade, you'd realize we have a 7 rib pulley for the blower. Sooooooo that's hurdle one. I think it can be overcome. Lets check it out...

First step is to purchase a new 034 Motorsport 207mm pulley and some ARP hardware from JXB to fasten it down. I know the 207 pulley is a debated topic around here, but I have put them on without issues and had a JHM one on my personal car for 40-50k miles that weighs a lot more than the 034 unit. If for some reason it decides to part ways with the engine, I will make an 8 rib that's smaller, but the 207 was the PERFECT size to mate with a 4.0" procharger pulley and maximize blower RPM around our 7,500 RPM.

To make it work with the procharger, I had to add an additional rib to the pulley. First step was the lathe to clean off the anodizing and prep it for welding...



I skimmed the outer face to prepare the welding surface. From there, I would build up enough weld bead all the way around, that I could machine it flat again, but have additional room to machine that 8th rib.

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Fired up the ol tig welder and built up a few nice beads around the pulley...

[rockcandy]

Once it cooled, I chucked it up back in the lathe and went to work. Flatten the outer face again, knocked off any sharp transitions, and machined the extra groove to make it compatible with the rest of the 8 rib pulleys. Once I finished the machining, I media blasted the pulley, applied Cerakote, and baked on the finish. Turned out pretty slick imo. Step 1 of about I don't know how many done. Perfect...

[rockcandy]

You can see the extra grip slot provided...

[rockcandy]

One of the nice things about using a 034 Motorsport pulley for this was its weight. Even after adding additional material to it for the 8 rib, it's still quite a bit lighter than the 207 JHM pulley I took off. Should help a little bit with the fastening hardware.






After pulling it from the oven, the finish was looking quite nice

[RoofRails]

I am looking forward to hearing the drive-by videos of this thing whenever you get to that point. The attention to detail in your fabrication is next level !

Sent from my SM-S928U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[rockcandy]

Thanks! I aim to please. This will be fun showcasing a little something for the community besides porting and cosmetics

[rockcandy]

Just a fun comparison on size of the unit with the compressor housing off.

[natert96]

love it! cant wait to see this progress! very interested in the cooling set up

[rockcandy]

There are also a few shortcomings I would like to address with the car for my use. One of them is the suspension. The suspension on Audis has always been a little "pogostick" like out back when launched really aggressively. It gets worse the more traction is available. It also increases the likelihood of breaking a rear axle as load is quickly shifted on and off the axle. I was really looking for a company that tends to cater heavily toward drag racers. After scouring catalogs for a while, I found a potential aid. QA1 Double adjustable shocks, part number TD903 appeared to nearly perfectly match factory dimensions, but offer dual adjustable operation. 18 adjustments for each setting to be exact. Should be all the adjustment I need out back! 15-1/2IN. compressed to 24-1/8IN extended was pretty much dead on my measurements. I currently have the H&R springs on there, but a set of 034 Motorport springs are in the hanger waiting for install. The H&R is just slightly too low for my use. I can report they bolted up nicely and the adjustment works really well. You can easily see the effect on your 60' when you launch the car as you move in and out on adjustments. The wobbly weight transfer and pogostick action is gone. I highly recommend this mod.

[rockcandy]

You can also see the power distribution is DEFINITELY not equal side to side. This not only sacrifices the ability to lay a great 60', but also greatly increases your risk to explode a set of spider gears. I went out to a local spot to do some launching with slow motion cameras set up. This was pre QA1 shocks. Not only did you pick up on the pogostick action, but the cameras on the drivers side vs the passenger side picked up completely different wheel speed. You could also pick this up in logs if you wanted to see it on paper, but I was already there looking at other things. Check out the difference. Looks like mustang tracks, minus the crowds bodies and downed poles!

[NolanAudi]

some wild throwback pics in here. keep it up, love seeing cool stuff on audizine again!

[rockcandy]

In kicking around design ideas, I had decided I wanted it in the lower passenger foglight grill. This presented a couple immediate issues I knew I would have to work around in the design process.

1. Potential interference with the lower radiator hose
2. Potential interference with the transmission cooler lines
3. Potential "frame" issues with the Procharger bracketry


All of those things were down in the general area of where I wanted everything to be. Dangit. lol Oh well, quit being a baby and make a fast car, I say. This is where I am going to say, I would LOVE LOVE LOVE the 3.0T community to get more involved with fabrication. It's kind of weird to spend almost a couple decades now with B5's where fabrication, engine bay shaves, custom turbo kits, etc etc etc are common place. I'll admit, I haven't seen much work beyond bolt ons for the B8 community. This has to change if you actually want a fast car. The reality is we all have to start somewhere. Even if that means you pick up a used harbor freight welder on craigslist for $150 DO IT! You aren't going to be producing dime stacks right away or anything, but I'll only razz you a little. I'll mostly give you a high 5 for manning up to do it though. If I could recommend a few tools that are absolutely must haves, I'd say a bandsaw, again a cheapie will work, though nicer blades are absolutely worth it. Get a decent drill and drill bits, a die grinder and lube. Most newbies start using a die grinder with the wrong bits or not using lube on the burrs. If your burr is clogging up, you need more lube. It keeps it from becoming hot and sticky. WD40 works okay, though there are nicer alternatives. These few basics will allow you to start forming metal and sticking it together!

So let's get back to one of these issues. While I did this specifically to alleviate lines in the way of my future bracket system, this can be applied by anyone wishing to divorce their trans cooler from the radiator. Why? Wellllll, it works great to get your trans fluid up to temp a little faster, by allowing the energy from the hot water to transfer over into the trans fluid. Beyond that, it's less than ideal if you're beating on the car. Whether that's from drag racing or road racing or canyon carving. Hot water in the radiator is only going to be so effective at removing heat from the trans fluid and at some point, it can easily be over run and become completely ineffective at doing its job. One of the other things that I consider a plus for divorcing the trans cooler from the radiator, is the potential to mix coolant and trans fluid if the seam between the two sections ever lets go. While it is rare, I have seen a handful of transmissions get destroyed over the years due to this failure. For me, I REALLY want to minimize future failure points as much as possible.

To do this is a piece of cake. You need a welder to do it the way I did, but if you don't have one, you can easily take your factory lines to a fab shop and have them weld it up for you. You need to take the factory rubber lines that run from the lower oil pan to the radiator, remove them, and sacrifice them for the change. Just take a cut off wheel and remove the steel fitting from the side of the oil pan and butt weld on some stainless 8an fittings to them. This allows you to send your trans fluid to wherever you want to mount an external cooler. This location is going to be different for a lot of people. You can see my fittings here....

[Silence]

Very excited about this build.

Also - can you comment on which battery you used?

[rockcandy]

Very excited about this build.

Also - can you comment on which battery you used?

Sure thing. I got this thing off of Amazon. If you search for group 48 lithium start stop battery, it should come up. I think they changed the label to something blue or something now. It has good reviews and it has never given me a lick of issues. It also bolts right in.

[SuitedUp2The9s]

Pretty darn cool man! Subscribed to the thread to hear more of your story

B5 S4 - Laser Red // Stage III
C7 A6 - Magnuson TVS1740 // 10.52@131

[034Motorsport]

Such a beautiful project, Marshall! Excited to be apart of this build!

-Sean@034

[rockcandy]

Thanks Sean! You guys make some damn nice goodies. May as well put them to good use! It’s exciting stuff to show!

[rockcandy]

So let's talk intercooler. I decided to stick with an air to water intercooler because I wanted an ice box and they're generally more efficient. An air to air is much simpler and most definitely can be used. In fact, you could pick them up dirt cheap. Even quality units from Treadstone aren't that expensive and you can even build your own using Garrett cores reasonably. You can rotate the compressor housing of the procharger to blow right into a front mount without too much hassle. It's a little jog to line up, but no big deal really.

So this is where I wanted it to keep the piping to a minimum...



Obviously there aren't any mounts on this intercooler so you'll have to build your own. There are a lot of options for this and there are dozens of air to water setups you can install in this same location without having issues. With that said, I chose a gigantic 1500 hp unit and there is NO WAY you're going to get a headlight back in there with this one. Which is fine for me. I plan to keep pushing up the bar as time goes on so I need it. Shearer Fabrications makes a 750 hp one, using a Garrett core that's exactly half the width. You might be able to fit the headlight back in, but I didn't get that one to know 100%. I have some other plans to give me some headlights back on that side...

Here is the mount I came up with...

I drilled two holes on the frame rail and installed some thread serts and fiddled with some cardboard for a while until I had built a mount I was happy with.






This put the inlet on the bottom and the outlet up top. It gave me a fairly short route to the TB. I went with Motion Raceworks couplers for most of the boost side as I wanted to avoid silicone couplers if I could. Personal preference really. Either will work, but these offer a more positive retention of the boost pipes for high boost.

[rockcandy]

Something to point out for this intercooler I chose. The fittings are big. 16an. Sometimes those can be hard to work around in a small German engine bay. The location of the hose connection on the top of my intercooler caused hood interference issues once I put a fitting on for the hose. Solution? Cap the original off and install a new one a little further away. Since the intercooler is mounted at an angle, the further down the unit you go, the more hood clearance is gained. Here is the relocated connection point...

[Bryn Anderson]

There are also a few shortcomings I would like to address with the car for my use. One of them is the suspension. The suspension on Audis has always been a little "pogostick" like out back when launched really aggressively. It gets worse the more traction is available. It also increases the likelihood of breaking a rear axle as load is quickly shifted on and off the axle. I was really looking for a company that tends to cater heavily toward drag racers. After scouring catalogs for a while, I found a potential aid. QA1 Double adjustable shocks, part number TD903 appeared to nearly perfectly match factory dimensions, but offer dual adjustable operation. 18 adjustments for each setting to be exact. Should be all the adjustment I need out back! 15-1/2IN. compressed to 24-1/8IN extended was pretty much dead on my measurements. I currently have the H&R springs on there, but a set of 034 Motorport springs are in the hanger waiting for install. The H&R is just slightly too low for my use. I can report they bolted up nicely and the adjustment works really well. You can easily see the effect on your 60' when you launch the car as you move in and out on adjustments. The wobbly weight transfer and pogostick action is gone. I highly recommend this mod.

What are you looking to see your car do with this suspension setup? Clearly the goal is to lower the 60' and end the "pogostick" action, but are you looking to keep the car squatted down until the 330' or extend and drive the rear subframe into the track and keep it separated from the car? AWD suspension seems to be much more nuance than RWD.

[rockcandy]

My experience so far is that preventing the rear end from squatting cuts down on short shifting 1st.

[EvolutionArmory]

My experience so far is that preventing the rear end from squatting cuts down on short shifting 1st.

Do you think that’s due to keeping the front wheels on the ground? Even with most of the power going to the rear on a launch I have always felt that the front wheels were usually causing all the problems with this DSG and launching.


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[rockcandy]

Do you think that’s due to keeping the front wheels on the ground? Even with most of the power going to the rear on a launch I have always felt that the front wheels were usually causing all the problems with this DSG and launching.


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I think so. I’m not 100% sure, but highly suspect that the cause of what we dislike about the dsg short shifting is caused by a split in wheel speed front to back on a launch.

[EvolutionArmory]

Alright, so we’re on the same page.


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