I hope that I can clarify a little bit. My drop on my 8Y Turbo blue on KW V3 and 18" is more of a 1" 1/3", I verified this with my otherwise other RS3 8Y kyalami on bone stock wheels/tires and suspension. Each suspension is going to give you a different feel and what I mean with this is I don't know how much a set of springs will compress compare to coilovers. My intent with this car was to have a true daily and track car and not just a daily and spirited sports car.
I am saying this because on a regular street you can't go nuts on the turns on regular all season tires but at the track you can get serious on tight turns and push the limits on sticky tires and for that I planned on the rear sway bars, the sticky tires and the KW V3 with the top and bottom adjustments. I knew that the tires would have to "tuck in" inside the wheel wheel, I will never built a car that rubs tires on the inner wheel well, is not my style. When I picked this set-up I did a lot of research but also I would say that a lot of people just buy suspension for the looks and a bit for performance and that is perfectly fine but when you are at the road course and you are pushing the limits on the car (3 wheels) heavy turns you don't want any rubbing (ideally).
Another thing that I need to mention and I think Geirsen also mentioned is the characteristics of each tire. Believe it or not some tires are wider than others by a significant margin, look a guy on YouTube named VAG performance, he shows various tires width and compares them and also test them on his RS3. I personally wouldn't go past 255 in the back (rear) next time around, that is my absolute limit but I will try them next time along with 275's in the fronts. I opted for the reverse staggered this time because I was convinced on the 8Y platform that they did it right this time, much wider hardware (fenders, maybe longer axles?, adjusted hubs) and the rear "live" diff that makes the car dance if you push it. The downside of this set-up is obviously the lack of ability to rotate but that is the price to pay.
You could go square set-up and be happy, this car is phenomenal also with the square set-up but I personally think that the wider tire combo(front) and a little bit of rear tail happy with "skinnier" tires (rear) and that rear live rear diff is the right spot. At the end of the day is all about how you are going to use your car, I had to do the rear negative camber because my rear 245 were touching at low speeds without even turning. I also removed the plastic black tabs which were positively rubbing. My car came with a 1.7 degree factory rear camber so I went 2.4 driver rear and 2.5 passenger rear and it solved the issue and you can go 3 degrees if need to. Are you intending on participating on a road course? or autocross? If you ended up dropping the car you will need an alignment regardless.
Look at this picture and look how sank in is the driver side rear tire/wheel. You come from a 28-30 MPH very tight corner. The tire is completely buried. You can't do that without rubbing unless you remove the plastic tabs and mess with the rear camber a bit and remember, I am on the hardest set-up on the neuspeed rear sway bar too. I am attaching the before and after alignment sheet
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