Issues Idling after Building Motor

[eliftw]

This is my first time posting here, I wasn't sure what to do and felt like I was out of options. So, I decided to ask the internet.

I have a 2009 Audi A4 Avant with the CAEB engine. I bought forged rods, pistons, performance bearings, and forged piston rings in preparation to install a big turbo aiming for 600+ HP. The day we finished the build; it had a grounding issue and would barely start. We added a temporary ground from the starter directly to the block and that fixed that issue for the time being. Same day, I drove it about 20 miles completely fine with 0 issues. But the next day, after driving for a few minutes, I noticed a slight misfire and immediately pulled over. Luckily, I had a simple code scanner with me, and I found I had a camshaft position code and an intake camshaft advanced timing code. After replacing sensor, I cleared the codes and neither came back. However, the fun doesn't stop there. After that day, it was all downhill. Misfires were more frequent (spreading to all cylinders) and then the engine decide to throw an intake code. I was able to narrow the code down to a faulty intake runner flap position sensor and no longer get that code. But now, present day, there are 0 other codes present except for misfire codes and a random/multiple misfire code. I don't exactly have the money to have it professionally looked at, so I figured to at least give the forums a shot since they've solved some of my other issues. The only mod outside of the engine I have so far is a catless downpipe and ECS coils/NGK plugs. I've done everything to try to track down this misfire, but I just can't get the thing to work the way it's supposed to. I think that's pretty much all I've got. If there's any other information I can provide, let me know and I will get that to whoever. Thanks in advance.

[Shane Horning]

This is my first time posting here, I wasn't sure what to do and felt like I was out of options. So, I decided to ask the internet.

I have a 2009 Audi A4 Avant with the CAEB engine. I bought forged rods, pistons, performance bearings, and forged piston rings in preparation to install a big turbo aiming for 600+ HP. The day we finished the build; it had a grounding issue and would barely start. We added a temporary ground from the starter directly to the block and that fixed that issue for the time being. Same day, I drove it about 20 miles completely fine with 0 issues. But the next day, after driving for a few minutes, I noticed a slight misfire and immediately pulled over. Luckily, I had a simple code scanner with me, and I found I had a camshaft position code and an intake camshaft advanced timing code. After replacing sensor, I cleared the codes and neither came back. However, the fun doesn't stop there. After that day, it was all downhill. Misfires were more frequent (spreading to all cylinders) and then the engine decide to throw an intake code. I was able to narrow the code down to a faulty intake runner flap position sensor and no longer get that code. But now, present day, there are 0 other codes present except for misfire codes and a random/multiple misfire code. I don't exactly have the money to have it professionally looked at, so I figured to at least give the forums a shot since they've solved some of my other issues. The only mod outside of the engine I have so far is a catless downpipe and ECS coils/NGK plugs. I've done everything to try to track down this misfire, but I just can't get the thing to work the way it's supposed to. I think that's pretty much all I've got. If there's any other information I can provide, let me know and I will get that to whoever. Thanks in advance.

The ground that connects eng to frame is down by the starter, it connects to the eng mount bracket. May be worth looking at that.

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[Veedubber12]

Is the motor currently tuned after you did all that or still stock tune? it could be related to the downpipe and 02 sensors. It would also be worth taking a look at the camshaft adjuster magnetic and the Valve that goes into the front of the intake cam. Also the cam bridge could have let some of the screen go. When I had idle issues it was because of trouble in this area. Definitely start with what was suggested above regarding the ground.

[eliftw]

Nope still stock tune, but as far as O2's go I've seen other people run catless DP's without a tune and runs fine. 100% will take a look at the area you suggested.

- - - Updated - - -

Alright, I'll take a look and get back to you. Thanks

[eliftw]

The ground that connects eng to frame is down by the starter, it connects to the eng mount bracket. May be worth looking at that.

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https://ibb.co/JcqVMf2
https://ibb.co/ZdGVFmq
https://ibb.co/5WTjQq7

These are the three ground locations I found that are around where you described, the one looks like it had something there but is empty (the 2nd photo I think) The first photo has 2 grounds, and the last photo shows the ground on the engine mount bracket.

[Veedubber12]

https://ibb.co/JcqVMf2
https://ibb.co/ZdGVFmq
https://ibb.co/5WTjQq7

These are the three ground locations I found that are around where you described, the one looks like it had something there but is empty (the 2nd photo I think) The first photo has 2 grounds, and the last photo shows the ground on the engine mount bracket.

Clean those ground contact points up really good.

[eliftw]

Clean those ground contact points up really good.

All grounds cleaned, still having issues :(

[Veedubber12]

All grounds cleaned, still having issues :(

What misfire codes are you getting? has a p0016 shown up at all?

[eliftw]

What misfire codes are you getting? has a p0016 shown up at all?

only codes present are P0300 and P0301-4

[eliftw]

Update:

Today, we cleaned my injectors and that made it a lot better at idle. Still the occasional misfire but it's not super consistent. However, now my car is storing 2 codes: P0341 Camshaft position and P2187 System too lean. The engine already has a brand new camshaft position sensor since the code came up before. The car occasionally stalls at idle after driving.

[eliftw]

Update 2:

Its been a while since my last post, however, still haven't quite got the thing working. We tore the engine apart and it turned out to be a seized balance shaft. Switched them out, everything seemed fine. Also replaced PCV valve (junk cheap amazon one) and cam bridge. 2 Days ago, we were out driving it, and it ran completely fine until we hit the highway. It's all downhill from there. "Do not exceed 4000 rpm's" We head home, and that's it for the day. The next morning, I wake up to try to take it to work but out of nowhere my oil level sensor says my oil is low (oil sensor did not work prior to this). I decide to trust it just to be safe and after work we drained and checked the oil amount (mmi doesn't work and no dipstick). 3.5 qts. drained. We also swapped back to OEM PCV valve after inspecting the diaphragm. Now tonight, I started it for the first time since draining and refilling the oil. I cleared the codes and was hit with a misfire on cylinder 4. Swapped coils, tried again. misfire on 4 and 2 as well as a P0300. There also is a high-pitched knocking sound, almost like a rod knock but not quite. we checked bottom end when we replaced balance shafts. I'm lost and don't have money to take it to the dealership. Anything helps.

[Shane Horning]

What is your cam phaser adaption at idle with eng warm? Also is intake cam adjustment actual value following the spec? As far as the noise it could possibly be a failing cam follower, I've had that cause intermittent misfire codes and slight noises. Also had that metal shield under oil fill cam come loose and drop down by intake valves causing some goofy problems. If you lost 1.5qt of oil something was going on, hopefully just the pcv valve

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[eliftw]

What is your cam phaser adaption at idle with eng warm? Also is intake cam adjustment actual value following the spec? As far as the noise it could possibly be a failing cam follower, I've had that cause intermittent misfire codes and slight noises. Also had that metal shield under oil fill cam come loose and drop down by intake valves causing some goofy problems. If you lost 1.5qt of oil something was going on, hopefully just the pcv valve

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how do i check both of the things you mentioned first? i’ll check out the cam follower at some point. could that cause contribute to the 4000 rpm limit? and as far as pcv goes, oem diaphragm is still whole and the cheap one is still just the cheap one but it’s intact. any other place where oil could be consumed that fast?

[Shane Horning]

how do i check both of the things you mentioned first? i’ll check out the cam follower at some point. could that cause contribute to the 4000 rpm limit? and as far as pcv goes, oem diaphragm is still whole and the cheap one is still just the cheap one but it’s intact. any other place where oil could be consumed that fast?

Vcds or obdeleven or similar scan tool should be able to read that. A bad turbo could cause the consumption too

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[eliftw]

Vcds or obdeleven or similar scan tool should be able to read that. A bad turbo could cause the consumption too

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just got inside from doing a little testing, swapped cam actuator to see if that did anything and also checked on the roller. the cam roller looked completely fine and after reassembling, the knocking noise was still there. I took a video of it running to show noise, but it also shows the different stats you told me to check. How would I check if turbo is the cause of my oil consumption? and tbh does 3.5 qts in the pan sound pretty off? it started off as 5qts but its cold so the oil was a lil thicker and oil all in the lines and other engine components.

[Shane Horning]

You could pull a lower intercooler line and see if it's full of oil. If you pull oil fill cap with eng at idle do you feel any blowby? That noise sounds pretty serious

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[eliftw]

You could pull a lower intercooler line and see if it's full of oil. If you pull oil fill cap with eng at idle do you feel any blowby? That noise sounds pretty serious

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i’ll check once i’m off, my dad bought a compression tester so we’ll try that out too. but there shouldn’t be any blow by, it’s got brand new rings. unless maybe it’s because they’re new and haven’t quite sealed all the way? i’m not sure

[eliftw]

Alright just got done outside, no compression test yet but a few things: lower intercooler line oil had a about a teaspoon of oil (high end of guesstimate), pulling oil cap while engine was running and warm revealed some smoke and a gasoline smell. clunking noise definitely coming from exhaust side of the engine. cheap pcv valve back on since oem was retested and is 100% bad (check valve on the front). I also forgot to mention during the engine being put back in, the dipstick tube broke and a piece dropped into the oil pan. didnt think itd be an issue since it was too big to be sucked up but figured id mention it (maybe a 2 inch section).

[eliftw]

More info I believe may be helpful: oil pressure at idle is around 12-15, small drips from N205 valves, and I just remembered that my main bearings are STD-X size (slightly more oil clearance).

[Jason11213]

I had a too lean at idle code and it ended up just being a vacuum leak. I found it by letting the car idle and listening along the block and PCV/intake manifold area with an automotive stethoscope. Swapped out my upper timing cover and temp sensor on the intake manifold which solved the rough idle and too lean code.

[eliftw]

my timing cover is brand new, im not sure what temp sensor youre talkling about though.

[eliftw]

update: installed new oil pressure switches (brown and blue) but no fix. last thing I can think to try is oil pump so next week i'll get that and go from there

[Veedubber12]

Just to try and rule this out, you did a new rear main seal correct?

[eliftw]

Just to try and rule this out, you did a new rear main seal correct?

yep, and its some nice one from ecs. had to make sure since it is high mileage

[Veedubber12]

yep, and its some nice one from ecs. had to make sure since it is high mileage

For sure, my rear main blew out when I replaced the PCV, misfired from time to time. went with the 034 one, noticeably better construction than OEM

[eliftw]

For sure, my rear main blew out when I replaced the PCV, misfired from time to time. went with the 034 one, noticeably better construction than OEM

yeah, and with the goal being over 600 hp i needed one that could handle it

[marcomarco]

Have you replaced the intake camshaft/ phaser itself or reused the old one? When they fail they can make knocking sounds and throw your timing all out of whack.

[eliftw]

Have you replaced the intake camshaft/ phaser itself or reused the old one? When they fail they can make knocking sounds and throw your timing all out of whack.

I've kind of swapped them around, neither seem to change anything but from what I can tell, the knocking noise is a result of the oil pressure. I found this out from another forum post and it's something to do with low oil pressure in the head.

[eliftw]

hopefully final update: installed new oil pump and N428 valve, all the issues are seemingly resolved.

[eliftw]

unfortunately, im back. drove good, no issues for 2 days. then out of no where i got hit with the "do not exceed 4000 rpms" with no change in driving. oil pressure appeared fine based off the guage ive installed and oil level is good. still has some where arrhythmic knocking/clicking/tapping. it went away (4k rpms warning) after turning the car off and didnt come back for a few days (today). i cannot for the life of me figure this out.

[StuckAntichris]

Since you have done everything that I could think of, you have to go back to the rebuild. You said the bearings were slightly oversized, maybe they have worn in? Lastly, when you did the cam cover, are you sure you didn't fill the oil passage in the corner of the cover? It looks just like the groove for the sealant but is actually an oil passage. I would think that would cause high oil pressure but you never know.

I have a similar issue on a Q5 but have not gone to the extents you have. I hope you get this figured out!

[eliftw]

Since you have done everything that I could think of, you have to go back to the rebuild. You said the bearings were slightly oversized, maybe they have worn in? Lastly, when you did the cam cover, are you sure you didn't fill the oil passage in the corner of the cover? It looks just like the groove for the sealant but is actually an oil passage. I would think that would cause high oil pressure but you never know.

I have a similar issue on a Q5 but have not gone to the extents you have. I hope you get this figured out!

Fortunately, no signs of bearing wear and it’s been driving perfect for a week or two now. Interesting about that oil passage, but would that cause high or did you mean low oil pressure? my issue is low oil pressure.

[StuckAntichris]

My thought would be that blocking an oil passage would cause you to have high oil pressure, but since I don't know exactly where the oil passage on the cam cover goes, I can't say for sure.

[eliftw]

My thought would be that blocking an oil passage would cause you to have high oil pressure, but since I don't know exactly where the oil passage on the cam cover goes, I can't say for sure.

I'm going to try a few things tomorrow, including checking the valve cover. A few more things I feel I should mention: my oil pressure has never ONCE come on, even when the manual gauge says pressure is low, there is a small leak from the vvt solenoids on the exhaust cam, 4k rpm warning comes on seemingly at random, no specific action seems to trigger it.

[eliftw]

I am back once again, drove about 1 1/2 hours both ways to get new seats, drove completely fine. still had the weird ticking/knocking but ive been ignoring it for weeks. 4000 rpm warning still comes up every once in a while, but I've also been ignoring that. my wastegate boost solenoid broke, put a new one in, got P052A and P053F, cleared them and they haven't come back. after this long drive, we went to get a part washer, and the engine would cut out randomly. did this about 3-4 times as well as a random pulse of the EPC light. after coming home, scanned it, and now i have, once again, P0341, P000A, and P0011. I'm so over this car at this point I just can't seem to catch a break with it.