2012 3.0T Timing Chain Replacement - Input? (P0018)

[jpjmustang]

Have a reoccuring code P0018 - changed the Cam position sensors / Crank position sensor and checked the VVTs (ok)

still threw code - took to Audi - they pulled cam covers and determined that the drivers side cams are out

Looking at chain replacements - looks like a HUGE job pulling the engine to work them on the back of the engine

ASK : (1) are there any tricks / pointers to pulling engine? (2) what would you replace while you have the engine out?

the kits are varied out there .......

JPJM

[SaVAGeSoot]

Sounds like a potential tensioner issue.
Are you sure you have to pull the motor? I'm almost certain that you only drop the tranny to get access.
What does the service manual tell you?

[jpjmustang]

I saw on line - that one process is to pull the motor out the front - the other shows working it with the tranny pulled.

Didn't know if you had enough room with the Tranny pulled to get all the "marks correct.

What do you think?

[SaVAGeSoot]

I think you need to reference the service manual.

[NorthernGTI]

I saw on line - that one process is to pull the motor out the front - the other shows working it with the tranny pulled.

Didn't know if you had enough room with the Tranny pulled to get all the "marks correct.

What do you think?

Alldata says to remove transmission.

[jpjmustang]

Thank you - did look in the manual

BUT other persons call for the engine pull - most of the comments were - If you doing chains, etc, pull the engine and do other items such as engine mounts, etc.

Just looking for advice from someone who has "experienced the pain"

Also - where did you buy your kit from?

JPJM

[Burkeomatic]

VAALLLLLLLPOOOOO!

Wish you could tag folks on here.

[SaVAGeSoot]

Alldata says to remove transmission.

OP won't have it.... they'd rather start off with a 13.5h procedure.... probably has a shop with cheap rates!

[Valpo A7]

VAALLLLLLLPOOOOO!

Wish you could tag folks on here.

You rang?

I am no longer in the Audi ownership rank and file but still come back here to hang out online. DON'T miss wrenching on the A7 at all.

Step 1, consider trading the damn thing off and replacing the vehicle. You are gonna drop a lot of coin into fixing the car that is already 12 - 13 years old.


Audi dealer will be the most expensive if you pay to have it done.

Indie shop will be $5,000 to $6,000

Home repairs - you will spend probably at least $2000 plus specialty tools.

Regarding P0018. Normally I would say clean the sensors bank 1 and 2 and see if that helps then switch left to right. But seeing that the Audi dealer already pulled the timing covers and confirmed damage then yep time to do at least the upper tensioners. The uppers can be done without removing the engine but its gonna be tight to work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAWsKChptvU This covers the repair with the engine still in the car for replacing the uppers. The vid is for a 3.2 but its pretty much the same.

I did not see anything other than OEM for the tensioners but you can get IWIS chains rather than OEM. From what I found IWIS is the OEM supplier. You will need to pull the motor if you are changing the chains as well. 4 chains and 4 tensioners and a lot of bolts to replace per the Erwin manual. Internal bolts I would change out, external bolts that is up to you, the dealer is supposed to change them for warranty reasons.

If you decide to replace all 4 chains and tensioners then you have 2 routes. Disconnect the engine and part of the subframe and drop it out or take off the nose of the car and pull it out the front with the trans and then disconnect them once out.

A few pictures from when I did mine. As you can see in pic #4 a chain was loose and chewing on a tensioner.

engine out.jpg

engine 6 (2).jpg

BROKEN GUIDES.jpg

CHEWED TENSIONER.jpg

sude guide.jpg

[Burkeomatic]

You rang?

I am no longer in the Audi ownership rank and file but still come back here to hang out online. DON'T miss wrenching on the A7 at all.

Step 1, consider trading the damn thing off and replacing the vehicle. You are gonna drop a lot of coin into fixing the car that is already 12 - 13 years old.


Audi dealer will be the most expensive if you pay to have it done.

Indie shop will be $5,000 to $6,000

Home repairs - you will spend probably at least $2000 plus specialty tools.

Regarding P0018. Normally I would say clean the sensors bank 1 and 2 and see if that helps then switch left to right. But seeing that the Audi dealer already pulled the timing covers and confirmed damage then yep time to do at least the upper tensioners. The uppers can be done without removing the engine but its gonna be tight to work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAWsKChptvU This covers the repair with the engine still in the car for replacing the uppers. The vid is for a 3.2 but its pretty much the same.

I did not see anything other than OEM for the tensioners but you can get IWIS chains rather than OEM. From what I found IWIS is the OEM supplier. You will need to pull the motor if you are changing the chains as well. 4 chains and 4 tensioners and a lot of bolts to replace per the Erwin manual. Internal bolts I would change out, external bolts that is up to you, the dealer is supposed to change them for warranty reasons.

If you decide to replace all 4 chains and tensioners then you have 2 routes. Disconnect the engine and part of the subframe and drop it out or take off the nose of the car and pull it out the front with the trans and then disconnect them once out.

A few pictures from when I did mine. As you can see in pic #4 a chain was loose and chewing on a tensioner.

engine out.jpg

engine 6 (2).jpg

BROKEN GUIDES.jpg

CHEWED TENSIONER.jpg

sude guide.jpg

I was going to suggest he give just the top chains a shot if he wants to try to doit with the engine in the car.

That said, half the time I try a shortcut like that, I feel like half the time it would have been easier had I just done it "the long way."

Referring to your step 1, that's why I decided to go ahead and get a V8. I figured if I'm going to maintain a car like this, it may as well be exactly what I want.

[Valpo A7]

Someone posted over on Audiworld to remove the SC to gain more working room if you tackle the tensioners with the engine still in the car.

[jpjmustang]

VALPO A7 - thank you for your responses

Thought this was going to be painful

JPJM

Recommendation - If Im going to keep the car - who would you buy parts from? - if not keeping - who would you buy from (ECS, Dealer, etc.)?

[Valpo A7]

ECS or FCP Euro if you are gonna fix this yourself. If you are going to use the credit card wrench then talk to the shop to see if you can provide parts, some shops will not install customer parts for their warranty reasons.

For the tensioners I think you are stuck with getting OEM, never saw a source for NON-OEM.

For the chains I went with IWIS and was told by ECS or FCP that they actually supply the OEM chains.


Some while its in the shop ideas to consider:
New gear oil for both diffs and the transfer. Synthetic GL-5 works. Even in the transfer. Factor fill on the transfer is some special and expensive juice that is GL4 with an additive. GL 5 works fine. Put 34,000 miles on it with no issues.
Give the motor mounts a good look, perfect time to change them.
Consider changing supercharger oil
Consider replacing both belts
Consider a new PCV

Be prepared to break the PCV hose.


Disconnecting all the coolant lines can be a pain but a shot of WD40 will make it easy.