'09 A4 B8 Front Suspension Rebuild?

[missin44]

I'm planning on a front suspension rebuild on my '09 A4 and have few questions:

1. Assuming I choose to replace all upper and lower control arms AND the pinch bolt turns out to be a multi-hour job, why not just cut the control arms instead of fighting with the pinch bolt?
2. If the pinch bolt comes out without issue and control arms are undamaged, any reason not to just replace the bushings vs. using all new metal?
3. For the lower ball joint removal I'm thinking of using my strut spreader tool (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../?gad_source=1), thoughts?

Regardless I'll be using all new hardware. Aside for the possible pinch bolt issue this should be a very straight forward job.

[Smac770]

1, You can't install the new uppers until that pinch bolt is out. Unless you plan on replacing the entire wheel bearing housing (aka spindle).
2, For the front arms, Audi has p/ns and workshop manual process for replacing just the bushings on all four arms. If the ball joints are good, then sure, go for just the bushings. It's simply time money vs parts money.
3, Just use a quarter or nickel or whichever fits (I forget what I used) like workshop manual says. That strut tool is not going to fit the slot.

The biggest pain is dealing with the nut on the bushing on the guide links (lower curved). And getting the +180° on them. Make note when the torque spec in the workshop manual diagram is on the nut and not the bolt head. If you torque the bolt head instead of the nut on the guide link bushings, you'll be under torqued.

And "torque at ride height" is always a pita. Always be safe regarding how the vehicle weight is supported.

[missin44]

1, You can't install the new uppers until that pinch bolt is out. Unless you plan on replacing the entire wheel bearing housing (aka spindle).
2, For the front arms, Audi has p/ns and workshop manual process for replacing just the bushings on all four arms. If the ball joints are good, then sure, go for just the bushings. It's simply time money vs parts money.
3, Just use a quarter or nickel or whichever fits (I forget what I used) like workshop manual says. That strut tool is not going to fit the slot.

The biggest pain is dealing with the nut on the bushing on the guide links (lower curved). And getting the +180° on them. Make note when the torque spec in the workshop manual diagram is on the nut and not the bolt head. If you torque the bolt head instead of the nut on the guide link bushings, you'll be under torqued.

And "torque at ride height" is always a pita. Always be safe regarding how the vehicle weight is supported.

Thanks for the response.
I've watched a few YouTube videos, and can't see how cutting both uppers and the large lower wouldn't work. Granted this not they way to go unless you're replacing them all. Maybe I'm missing something, I'll take another look.

[Smac770]

On 1, the pinch bolt locks the upper arm ball joints into the wheel bearing housing. That pinch has to come out to get the old ball joints out and put the new ball joints in. So you're dealing with the pinch bolt no matter what. If you want to remove the wheel bearing housing from the car and deal with the pinch bolt on a bench, just undo the upper arms at the bushing end. You have to do that anyway.