High Oil Temps

[jrieder]

Looking for some guidance. The car's been having oil overheating issues. I drive it in the winter, so temps are lower (usually 50-60s max). On the freeway and going up to the mountains, oil will get over 250F, closer to 260-265 at peak. I was originally thinking oil was getting into the IM and burning but it's clean. I pulled my lower DS IC hose and there were maybe 4 oz of oil that came out. None on PS. There are zero overheating issues with the coolant system (also measured on VCDS for peace of mind). I've used VCDS to measure oil temps in case my cluster reading was bad and they are the same.

Here's what I've replaced with no luck:

-Oil temp/level sensor with Hella brand
-THE Tuner RS4 oil cooler (the cooler that sits next to the filter, not on the radiator)
-LM 5w-40 oil changes every 5k miles
-Rebuilt spider hose, PCV functional
-Audi oil pressure sensor
-Thermostat
-coolant system flush done at Audi

Could my turbo be going out? Was under the impression that amount of oil in the IC pipe is normal. Or could the feed lines be clogged causing overheating? Engine is out in prep for the winter, my plan is to pull the oil pan and check the screen for buildup. I'm curious what to test next.

Thanks guys


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[LJS]

FWIW-
I would start by getting a handle on oil pressure---Not that easy on our motor-
There's a sensor mounted on the back side of the housing for the oil filter---not the easiest to get at but can be done from underneath (by feel),
You can pull that sensor an then have a port for a pressure gauge-I believe that sensor has a NPT thread so it shouldn't be too hard getting a fitting there for a line and remote gauge
My gut says this may be your issue....
I've tracked my Audi and seldom see oil temperatures over 250F
ALSO
How aggressive is your tune---lots of boost and timing will add LOTS of heat and stress to the oiling system(I see you're at altitude being in Denver)
PS- that sensor you'll be removing is for the low oil prssure warning light that shows on the center display....it's a dumb sensor (on off only) with 1 wire

[xRenesis]

Don't even need to remove the dummy switch, front side of the switch is a plug for adding a gauge. Should be m10, looking into a m10 to npt adapter.

Lots of things can cause oil temp, bearing clearances, metal rubbing, blocked oil cooling ports, something stuck in the pump relief, etc

[LJS]

The connector for the sensor can be seen below the fan pulley in this photo

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[LJS]

Don't even need to remove the dummy switch, front side of the switch is a plug for adding a gauge. Should be m10, looking into a m10 to npt adapter.

Lots of things can cause oil temp, bearing clearances, metal rubbing, blocked oil cooling ports, something stuck in the pump relief, etc

ABSOLUTELY CORRECT but will require removal of the AC compressor to gain access-----too much work IMHO

[xRenesis]

Not sure on the size of the b5 ac to the b7 ac, but there is plenty of room to me. Plus he said engine is out, so perfect time if the b5 ac is that much larger. Having installed a new gauge sensor with the engine in and ac in before.

[jrieder]

FWIW-
I would start by getting a handle on oil pressure---Not that easy on our motor-
There's a sensor mounted on the back side of the housing for the oil filter---not the easiest to get at but can be done from underneath (by feel),
You can pull that sensor an then have a port for a pressure gauge-I believe that sensor has a NPT thread so it shouldn't be too hard getting a fitting there for a line and remote gauge
My gut says this may be your issue....
I've tracked my Audi and seldom see oil temperatures over 250F
ALSO
How aggressive is your tune---lots of boost and timing will add LOTS of heat and stress to the oiling system(I see you're at altitude being in Denver)
PS- that sensor you'll be removing is for the low oil prssure warning light that shows on the center display....it's a dumb sensor (on off only) with 1 wire

I can look into the thread size and getting a gauge to get some readings. What would nominal pressure be at idle and what should I expect at various RPMs/boost?

The tune is a stage 2 tune from ETSpect peaking at 14 psi. The car has catless 3" DPs to a Milltek 3" exhaust.

If it were to be oil pressure issues, what would you recommend looking at to potentially replace?

[jrieder]

Don't even need to remove the dummy switch, front side of the switch is a plug for adding a gauge. Should be m10, looking into a m10 to npt adapter.

Lots of things can cause oil temp, bearing clearances, metal rubbing, blocked oil cooling ports, something stuck in the pump relief, etc

Thanks for the deets on the sizing. Sounds like a needle in a haystack chasing down what it could be at this point.

[jrieder]

I did pull the oil pan tonight and not seeing any build up on the screen.


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[xRenesis]

Just as a double check, the oil cooler was plumbed correct and there wasn't like a shipping plug in the lines before hooking up?

[LJS]

I can look into the thread size and getting a gauge to get some readings. What would nominal pressure be at idle and what should I expect at various RPMs/boost?

The tune is a stage 2 tune from ETSpect peaking at 14 psi. The car has catless 3" DPs to a Milltek 3" exhaust.

If it were to be oil pressure issues, what would you recommend looking at to potentially replace?

FWIW- your motor looks very well maintained---
You should have some 25-30 psi at idle with pressure building to close to 40 psi at 5000 RPM with oil at operating temperature.
An Oil pump is an easy replacement as your motor is out of the vehicle
The comment regarding a check of the oil cooler is a REAL GOOD idea-cooler and lines
PS- Stage II tunes on these motors are fun---I had a DAZ tune for a very long time---got my tune from him several months before his untimely death
Your oil temperatue should never exceed 250F inlight of your very expensive RS4 oil cooler
QUESTION- Is the RS4 cooler an addition to the OE cooler or a replacement?????

[xRenesis]

30psi at idle is high on the stock pump, maybe rs4 pump? I'm only 30psi after like 5 min of cold idle. Operating temp idle is down to ~18psi, and 3k rpm at ~48psi. 40psi on both my engines is around 2500rpm.

[RMode]

FWIW- your motor looks very well maintained---
You should have some 25-30 psi at idle with pressure building to close to 40 psi at 5000 RPM with oil at operating temperature.
An Oil pump is an easy replacement as your motor is out of the vehicle
The comment regarding a check of the oil cooler is a REAL GOOD idea-cooler and lines
PS- Stage II tunes on these motors are fun---I had a DAZ tune for a very long time---got my tune from him several months before his untimely death
Your oil temperatue should never exceed 250F inlight of your very expensive RS4 oil cooler
QUESTION- Is the RS4 cooler an addition to the OE cooler or a replacement?????

He’s got an rs4 size oil filter “housing”, where the oil filter mounts to. Not the air/air cooler. It’s nearly the same as the standard S4 one, just a different thickness (and uses a different filter)


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[CELison]

Maybe you have a restriction in the turbo feed lines? Causes higher oil pressure and lets the oil sit in there longer and get baked by the turbos. If it was in the returns lines you would be smoking a bit, plus those lines have a pretty damn big ID. Just a theory.

[jrieder]

As RMode mentioned, this is just the standard oil cooler that goes off the side of the engine next to the filter, but the RS spec. I thought about getting the external RS4 cooler, but feel like that'd be masking an underlying problem.

I'll look into the gauges. Any specific product you guys have used in the past and recommend?

I was thinking the feed lines could be the issue since the ID is so small on those. Admittedly, I am the guy that will start his car and let it run for several minutes before moving. Not sure if that idle would contribute to oil building up faster in a line like that or not?

[james 408]

while i generally agree that hitting 250+ is unusual for most people, even on a track... on flat-out uphill runs it takes about 5-10 minutes to put temp well over 250 on an uphill canyon run for most setups. all depends on the shape of the road, boost levels, and the driver though, any high speed section or downhill will cool it down.

Hitting 250+ if you're doing uphill in the mountains isn't unusual at all if you're full tilt, there might be nothing wrong at all. I've seen healthy cars of all makes do this, including NA cars. sometimes it only takes like 2-3 minutes to overload the stock cooling. then coolant temps follow shortly after as the oil temp drags up the water temp. getting better airflow to the cooler is generally the solution.

[xRenesis]

As far as setup goes, that depends how far you want to go. If you just want to check if yours is mostly accurate, either make like a pvc tester or buy a cheap one from any auto store and compare. But yes, hitting 250F isn't bad unless it doesn't go away, in fact hitting over 212F helps the oil burn the water out that short drives may add to the oil. Water free oil is happy oil.

My setup I've been running for awhile now is the Innovate gauges, since I have 4 all matching for different measurements, but, these are what I was trying to link earlier that I personally have,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085VCXTCS...fed_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YDLNFKB...sin_title&th=1

Then I run the temp sensor under the oil cooler through that bulkhead, which is safety wired inside the oil pan after it was tightened.

[jrieder]

Thanks for the advice. I've ordered a pressure gauge that I'll install off that front port as suggested. Bosch makes a nice 2-in-1 temp/pressure sensor that could install there as well. I couldnt find a display that was compatible with it other than the cheapo ebay gauges.

I also ordered a set of feed lines from TTE as a precaution. Going to replace those while the engine is out and hopefully that solves my problem. I'll report back once the engine is in and gauge is in so I can share the pressure readings.

[LJS]

Thanks for the follow-up
Lots of folks now a days simply disappear after they ask for assistance....
Look'n forward to hearing how things work out for you...Best of luck to ya!

[Silverex]

Thanks for the advice. I've ordered a pressure gauge that I'll install off that front port as suggested. Bosch makes a nice 2-in-1 temp/pressure sensor that could install there as well. I couldnt find a display that was compatible with it other than the cheapo ebay gauges.

I also ordered a set of feed lines from TTE as a precaution. Going to replace those while the engine is out and hopefully that solves my problem. I'll report back once the engine is in and gauge is in so I can share the pressure readings.

A zeitronix zt-2 will be able to log them and display them on their multi gauge, pretty sure I have an extra gauge if you go that route lmk.

FIS Control can also do both and be displayed in the factory cluster screen.

[travis_w]

What's tou experience with fis control? I have 3 gauges and want to minimize it to 1 if possible. Does it read ethanol % if ther eis a sensor?

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[Silverex]

What's tou experience with fis control? I have 3 gauges and want to minimize it to 1 if possible. Does it read ethanol % if ther eis a sensor?

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I love it, one of my favorite mods.

You can wire up basically any 0-5v sensor so yes

[travis_w]

What one did you get and how long did it take to get it to you?

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[RMode]

What one did you get and how long did it take to get it to you?

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I’d imagine we have V2.2, or whatever prior gen. I’ve updated my firmware a few times since originally buying it.

As far as how long, it’s sold through a different distributor now vs when the rest of us got it. When I got mine 3 ish years ago, it was through the prior distributor TurboZentrum, who I’m a dealer for. Arrived in a few days along with the sensors I elected to get (minus boost/vacuum which I got on my own). Zero experience with the new distributor.


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[eurogz]

I recently got a 2.2 from Praban, 8 days from payment til it hit my doorstep. They were responsive to emails beforehand


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[travis_w]

What did you get an if you don't mind what was the cost?

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[ShelbyM3]

OP, I’m riding your coattails here. How much room is under the A/C compressor? Wondering if my fittings will have enough space, but my compressor is still in the car.




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[Silverex]

OP, I’m riding your coattails here. How much room is under the A/C compressor? Wondering if my fittings will have enough space, but my compressor is still in the car.


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Fittings will clear but going be really tight with that hardline

[jrieder]

Haven’t been able to install a gauge yet, but was doing my oil pan gasket and noticed the below in the screen going to the pump. I spent some time getting out everything.

Is it possible this could this be a partial culprit? I’d like to think so but not sure if that possible given the area of the screen

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[jrieder]

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[Hmh800]

With an adapter to go from the metric fitting on the upper oil pan to npt for a mechanical gauge there’s room to clear the ac. I had one connected when I first fired my motor up. I used nylon line not copper as it was only temporary. It was a pía to put the factory plug back in afterwards but’s it’s doable.

[ShelbyM3]

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Yikes. I can’t confirm anything for you, but yeah. Yeah that was impacting your oil flow.

Here’s how I routed my mechanical gauge.




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