Kujispeed Audi Delta CC Bose Bluetooth Audio Kit Install Guide

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Hello everyone! This is a guide for installing your Kujispeed Bluetooth Audio Kit into your Audi/Blaupunkt Delta CC radio. I will do my best to list every tool you will need to install this kit, as well as give very detailed photos and tips of the install to make this as painless as possible. Let's go over a few things to note about this install before diving in.

DISCLAIMER: Unless you are skilled with soldering, this install is a one way trip and is not easily reversible. That being said, you will only be losing functionality of your Cassette drive; if you do not use cassettes, you have nothing to worry about. I recommend you have some sort of soldering experience, as you will be dealing with the removal of an integrated circuit chip. This can be done with 2 different methods, I will cover both options. Pick whichever option best suits your skills.

If you are interested in my kit, please contact me via the Kuji Speed Facebook page or you can email me directly at [email protected]
Pricing is $50 + $10 shipping in the US.

Features:
-Hands-free control over your music via the factory Tape Deck control buttons on your radio.
-Wireless audio streaming via Bluetooth.
-Completely factory appearance, no gaudy aftermarket radio needed.
-Expansion connectors to easily add more inputs and aftermarket microphones for phone call use.
-Custom Flexible PCB designed to easily allow anyone to add faceplate controls for your music.
-Terminated connections to allow for easy disassembly.

Items included in your kit:
-Bluetooth audio chip
-Custom flex PCB for hands-free controls
-Length of wire
-Double sided tape
-Additional aux pigtail

Tools and Supplies Needed:
-Soldering iron with a fine tip, sponge, solder, solder removal wick
-Multimeter
-Wire snips, flush cutting preferred
-Flathead screwdriver
-T6 & T8 torx bits with driver
-Scotch tape
-Small tweezers for routing wires and holding components to be soldered
-Small craft razor/Xacto knife
-Sharp hooked pick
-VAG radio removal tool
-A large, flat and clean table to work on.

Section 1: Radio Identification, PIN and Removal
This kit ONLY works with BOSE equipped cars currently. You can identify this by powering on your radio, it should illuminate "BOSE" on the screen.
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Be sure to have your radio PIN code written down for reinstallation. This can be found in your Bose Manual in your owners manual sleeve. If you do not have this, check to see if there is a 4-digit number written on the top of the radio. Some previous owners or shops have done this in the past and I have come across it a few times. If there is no PIN in either of these places, you can give Audi a call and give them your serial number and or VIN and they can give you the PIN code. Some may ask you to go in for it to be read.
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You will see 2 small slots at the bottom edge of the radio on either side. You will need to insert your radio removal tools with the taper facing INWARDS. You should feel the tool bottom out and a small snap as the clips slide over the taper. Once both tools are inserted, you can pull outwards and your radio will come out. Be careful to remove the connectors on the back of the radio. There will be 2 large connectors on the left corner, one ground wire terminal, and the antenna.

Section 2: Radio Disassembly
Let's dig into your radio a bit, push all 3 of the knobs on front to extend them outwards. Grab onto each knob and pull them off the potentiometers one by one. These can be snug, make sure you are pulling straight outwards to avoid bending or damaging the potentiometer shafts.
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Remove the top and bottom covers of the radio's casing. If these have never been off before, they can be a bit tough. I suggest using a flathead screwdriver to gently lift the covers out of their retaining tabs. If your radio has been apart before, you can usually place 4 fingers directly above the main terminals on the rear of the radio, and pull upwards.
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Section 3: Tape Drive Removal & Modification
Using a T8 Torx bit, remove the 4 screws holding it in place.
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There will be 2 connectors to remove as well at either side of the drive. The left side can be removed by grasping the white carriage that holds the main daughterboard for the drive, and pulling upwards gently. The right side is for the magnetic pickup head that reads the cassette tapes.
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Remove the tape drive from the radio. There is a spring that needs to be removed on the black plastic slider near the drive motor. This can easily be removed by using a screwdriver or a pick to depress the spring and moving it over its retention point.
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There is also a flat stainless steel spring that needs to be removed in the center of the loading tray.
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You can do this simply by sliding a flathead under the spring and prying upwards. This will pull the spring over its retaining stamp and give room for installing your Bluetooth chip.
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Next you will need to remove the magnetic pickup head from the drive. There are a couple plastic retainers holding it, all you need to do is push the tabs and pull the pickup out. Flip the drive over and locate the rubber drive belt. The belt needs to be removed to keep drive noise from occurring. You can either cut the belt, or remove the cage over the brass pullies and remove it that way. I have no intention of using the tape drive, so I just snip them. Set your drive aside for now, we will come back to it when we're ready to reinstall it. It is important to note that you need to retain your tape drive in order for the radio to even power on. If there is no tape drive plugged in, your radio will not power up.

Continued in next Post...

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Section 4: Dolby Chip Removal
We have reached the most difficult section of this install. Take it slowly, don't rush yourself. Locate the chip marked with the Dolby Digital logo. This chip is used to reduce noise from the tape deck and needs to be removed in order for this install to function.
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There are 3 methods to removal, 2 of which are easily doable with standard tools and the other requires a specialized tool called a "Hot Tweezers." For this install, I will cover the two methods accessible with normal tools.
-The first (and most crude, as its not reversible) method is to simply snip off the legs of the Dolby chip with a pair of flush cutters. This can be fairly tedious, as you need to snip them one by one to avoid damaging the main motherboard. Follow this with solder removal wick to remove all the old solder and leftover legs.
-The second method may seem strange at first, but I have found it to be the cleanest method. You'll want to fire up your soldering iron and have a roll of solder and fine tipped tweezers ready. First, you'll want to "flood" each side of the chip's legs with solder. Make sure to use enough solder to end up with one large "line" of solder on either side of the chip. Place your tweezers underneath the front edge of the chip. Alternate melting the solder on both sides of the chip while gently lifting your tweezers up. Swap your iron from side to side until one side lifts up, then the other side for the last time and the chip should come off the board with no damage. All the legs and pads should still be in tact and ready to go if you should want to reverse this process. Follow this up with the solder removal wick on the motherboard to remove any leftover solder. The pads where the chip was should clean up nicely.
Congrats! You've made it over the hill.
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Section 5: Pigtail Installation
There are 2 loose pigtails included in your kit, one with a 2-wire connector, and one with a 3-wire connector.
-Lets start with the 2-wire. Flip your radio over so the bottom is facing up. Locate the Red-Boxed area.
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Solder your 12v and Ground wires to the points shown below. Be sure to make clean and solid solder joints to avoid any issues in the future.
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-That just leaves the 3-wire. We will only be needing the Left Output and Right Output wires here. Snip off the Ground wire as close to the heat shrink as possible as it is not needed. Locate the Light Blue-boxed area.
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Solder the two wires in place as shown below.
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Route both pigtails through the gaps in each side of the case like so:
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Section 6: Tape Drive Installation
Reinstall your tape drive into the radio, being mindful where your pigtails are. You'll want to ensure your pigtails are run past the drive so they can be routed and plugged in later.
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Reinstall the 4 T8 screws holding the drive into the radio. Using your double sided tape, mount your Bluetooth chip as shown below. The chip needs to be installed in this orientation to ensure there are no shorts onto the drive. Go ahead and route your Output pigtail and Power/Ground pigtail to the Bluetooth chip and plug them into their respective terminals. Be sure to plug the Output pigtail into the Output terminal, as it is the same as the Aux Input terminal.
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Continued in next post...

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Section 7: Faceplate Modification
So this is where the magic happens. This section allows you to use the tape deck buttons to control your music. The Flip Sides button acts as Play/Pause, the Seek Next is Skip, and the Seek Previous is Previous. Remove the 6 T6 screws behind the front panel at either side of the radio.
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Pull the faceplate straight forwards, there are 2 terminal headers at the bottom of the faceplate that use a direct connection, so be careful with its removal.
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Lay the faceplate face down, remove the 6 T6 screws holding the black plastic cover on. Remove the cover, followed by the faceplate daughterboard. You'll need to push outwards on the housing as there are tabs holding the board in the housing.
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Once the daughterboard is out, flip it over so the back is face down. Locate the 3 switches that we will be using to control your music.
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You will need to cut a few traces here, as scary as this sounds, this is reversible if you so desire. The reason we need to cut traces here is because the Bluetooth module uses a short-circuit style circuit to trigger it's functions. The radio uses a completely different system for triggering functions with power running through at all times. These differences cause the Bluetooth module to not power up, and the radio buttons inoperative. We can get around cutting a couple of the traces by removing resistors and causing an open-circuit, which we will be doing. Your kit included a custom flexible PCB for ease of installation of this step. Lay your flex over top of the daughterboard with its pads lining up to the respective switches. You will notice a couple of points that say "remove" with either an arrow or an X marking.
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Those are the resistors that will need to be removed (early revision Flexes are slightly off, but they still mark the correct resistors; this will be fixed in the next revision).
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Touch your soldering iron to pad of the resistor and hold there for 5-8 seconds, slide your iron towards the resistor to slide it off its pads. Clean the pads with solder wick. This takes care of 2 of the circuits. The others need to be cut. I suggest using an hobby knife or a sharp hooked pick to gently scrape the trace until you break the circuit. Testing with a multimeter is a great way to make sure everything is correct the first time.
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Once all your traces have been broken on the front, there is one hidden trace that needs to be taken care of before we solder in our flex. Gently pry apart the 2 daughterboards to the right of the tape loading bay, and break the trace marked here.
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Now we are ready to solder in the flex cable. Place the flex back on the front of the faceplate daughterboard, being sure to line up all the pads with their respective switches' terminals. Its a good idea to tin the pads of the flex and fill each of the switches' terminals with fresh solder to make this a breeze. Once everything is prepped, go ahead and tack in the point closest to where the harness attaches. You'll also want to use scotch tape to hold the flex in place, not only while soldering, but after completion to ensure no stress breaks happen from movement of the harness. Tack in the rest of the pads, then add solder to each joint, being sure to leave a nice weld.

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Your kit came with a short length of wire. This is needed to restore the circuit to the Source button so you will able to change between audio sources. Solder the wire from the two Light-Blue points.
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Once everything is soldered in, you can move over to the faceplate shell. You'll want to snip off this boss to make room for the harness.
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Once the boss is removed, you can reinstall the daughterboard back into the shell. NOTE: Be careful of the tape door flap, there is a tang on the bottom edge that needs to be slotted into the daughterboard before installation or you risk damaging your shell as well as the switches. Route the harness through this hole, and snap the daughterboard into the shell.
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Reinstall the plastic caging minus the single top left screw for the boss we snipped off earlier. Refit the faceplate to the radio, ensure the pins on the radio enter their terminals on the faceplate. Reinstall the 6 countersunk T6 screws on either side of the faceplate. Congrats! You're just about done!
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Section 8: Reassembly
Route the harness from the faceplate underneath the tape drive. Using fine tipped tweezers makes this much easier. Fish the connector up to the left rear of the Bluetooth chip and plug it in.
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Reinstall the top and bottom covers, lining up the edges with their retention tabs. Reinstall the 3 knobs on the front, and you're good to go. Reinstall the radio into your car, being sure to plug in all 4 connectors; Power pigtail, signal pigtail, ground wire and antenna. Slide the radio into its slot until you hear the clips snap in. Power on your radio, press and hold the DX & FM1 buttons for a few seconds. The display will show "1000," you will need to enter your PIN found in your Bose Radio Manual. There is a business card sized tag with your radio code printed on it. Your 1, 2, 3 & 4 buttons coincide with the "1000" displayed on the radio. Press each of the buttons until your PIN is displayed on the screen, then hold the DX & FM1 buttons again for several seconds. Your radio should display "BOSE," then go to the default source and station.

Section 9: Pairing & Extras
On your cell phone, go to your Bluetooth Settings, and connect to "Lanni." From there, you can enter its settings, change it's type to a Car Stereo, and even change the name displayed on your phone. I like to set the name to the Owners Name followed by the Car, but you can choose whichever you prefer. You are all done with your install, thanks for the support and enjoy your radio! There is a second 3-wire pigtail included in your kit, this one is for an Auxiliary Input. If you so choose, you can install the included 3.5mm Aux jack on the back of your radio's frame by drilling a hole in it and threading the aux jack onto the back. From there you can run a 3.5mm aux cable to anywhere in the car, or even daisy chain it to another Aux jack on the dash of your car. This makes for a clean install that can easily be disconnected when removing the radio. There is also a Microphone terminal on the Bluetooth chip, there is a small 2-wire pigtail included for this terminal. You can wire this to the factory microphone in the sunroof control/overhead console. I have not tried this myself, but there is no reason this can't be done for a hands-free phone cable setup.