Burkeomatic's A8L Build Thread

[Burkeomatic]

Hi everyone, instead of continuing my C7 build thread with this car, I figured I'd start a new one.

I got rid of my peasant spec Stage 2 A7 with 103k miles on it, and got this 2014 A8L with a 4.0t with 86k and I got a pretty solid deal on it, well under book value, but it does have a couple of issues I found out about after purchase. I ended up getting a little 3 month 4500 warranty that covered the air suspension and electronic dampers.... more on that later.

It's almost as fast as the A7, and well, it's going to be way faster. My kiddos are way more comfortable in it, and it has active cruise control which after having had on the CX-9, I don't think I can live without it now.






Anyway, first things first, whenever I get a new (to me) car I automatically assume the previous owner didn't take care of it. So step one will be getting it right.

1. It didn't have a undertray. Yeah, I get it. Lazy people don't want to deal with the dang thing when they change the oil, and on my A7 in the rare event I did take it to a shop, it always came back with fasteners missing. There is something about ruining the aerodynamics of a car and leaving the oil pan exposed that doesn't sit right with me. I ordered an undertray from ebay that got here and it seems to be of fair quality. I also designed and printed a magnetic hatch to go where the oil drain is. So no dropping the undertray when changing the oil. We'll see how that works. If it pans out (ha, see what I did there) I'll sell them for the low, low cost of whatever filament and magnets costs me along with shipping. I'll also make the files available free if anyone wants to print it.

2. I'm going to go ahead and stick some fresh oil in it. I've got some liquimoly to stick in it from FCP euro. I may end up doing a coolant flush on it too. On that note, I'm going to send a sample off to blackstone to see if there is any contaminants of concern in it.

3. The car has a slight hesitation or miss under part throttle around 3-4k. No misfire codes (or I wouldn't have bought it). I'm hoping a fresh set of plugs will fix it, and I'd bet they've never been changed.

4. The suspension needs work. When I drove it, it was a pretty smooth road and I didn't notice a lot. I've theorized through VCDS scans and visuals that the front left has a leak, and that's running the compressor to death and then it throws and overheat code and it throws a fault. Also, there is a damper code for the front right. Also, the front control arms need to be changed, they're a little sloppy, smart with the smooth test driving road, although I'd bet it's something the dealer wouldn't notice or most people, just me. It's ashame 034 doesn't make the high durometer rubber arms for these cars, because they were one of the best things I did to the A7.

Here's the scan of the suspension.

677384 - Ride-Height System; Plausibility Error 
          C1046 00 [00001000] - -
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 228
                    Mileage: 140179 km
                    Date: 2024.07.27
                    Time: 14:47:54

677385 - Ride-Height System; Plausibility Error 
          C1046 00 [00001000] - -
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 227
                    Mileage: 140179 km
                    Date: 2024.07.27
                    Time: 14:47:54

36617 - Valve for DamPing Adjustment Front Right 
          C1041 11 [00001000] - Short to Ground
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Priority: 3
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 225
                    Mileage: 140175 km
                    Date: 2024.07.27
                    Time: 14:45:28

115968 - Functional Limitation due to Excessive Temperature 
          P178E 00 [00001000] - -
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Priority: 6
                    Fault Frequency: 25
                    Reset counter: 228
                    Mileage: 140055 km
                    Date: 2024.07.27
                    Time: 13:16:29

I'll probably do the little maintenance stuff on Tuesday, and then the rest will be done at whatever shop I have the suspension warranty work done. I also suspect an engine mount issue, but this one doesn't make sense, they may have just unplugged it so it didn't throw a code. It doesn't feel like when my A7 mounts kicked the bucket, but it is about that time I suppose.

Address BA: Motor Mounts (J931)       Labels: 4H0-907-145.clb
   Part No SW: 4H0 907 145     HW: 4H0 907 145 
   Component: AEM - LEAR    H07 0006  
   Revision: 00001001    Serial number: 97809002678900 Dataset Number: 4H0909578A  0011
   ASAM Dataset: EV_AEMLearAU64X 002014
   ROD: EV_AEMLearAU64X_AU57.rod
   VCID: 6695BF82C8E442CAC5F-8032

2 Faults Found:
0554 - No Basic Setting 
          B2010 00 [00001001] - -
          [FC_AssemblyCheck_NotDone]
          Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 185
                    Mileage: 140034 km
                    Date: 2024.07.27
                    Time: 13:06:32

1632 - invalid data record 
          B2005 00 [00001001] - -
          [FC_Dataset_Invalid]
          Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 185
                    Mileage: 140034 km
                    Date: 2024.07.27
                    Time: 13:06:32

Alright, after all that is taken care of, here is the plan. I have it broken down into my own stages. We need more power.

One of the things that killed me about the 3.0t is there wasn't a tuner that could do automatic E85 switching through an ethanol sensor. Plus, you'll never get good power from that motor unless you spend endless amounts of money on custom stuff, which is fine, but having a high HP 3.0t isn't a passion of mine. The tiny SC, lack of upgrades on that end, and the fuel bottle neck was enough to make me give up on it as a power platform. I always found myself wanting a little more, but I was never able to bring myself to go hard down that route knowing the 4.0t exists.

Stage 1. Tune and Intake.

- The DS1 is non-negotiable. It is the only tuner on the market that will do the flex fuel sensor. I'm open on the others.

- TCU I was thinking JHM for the TCU tune because it is inexpensive and I have the cable. I'm not too picky on TCU tunes, and I had their ZF8 on the A7 and I liked it.

- Intake I was talking to a guy about getting OE S8 intakes. But he asked me what I was willing to pay, I pm'ed him back, and didn't hear anything, I don't think he logs on a lot. I offered him $400, was that too low? If that doesn't work out, I'll probably try to see if the ECS intakes will work. I don't see a reason they won't.

Stage 2. I was going to do the HPFPs and E85/fuel line kit here.

Stage 3. Turbos/Cooling

Turbos - I haven't decided which turbos to do. I'm not sure if I should move them up the list because I've read a couple of "warnings" that the OE turbos don't like the tuned life. I'm not sure if that is the exception or the norm.

Cooling - I do want to do A2A intercooling. I've worked with turbocharged cars long enough that I feel that is superior. Less points of failure, less crap to maintain, and opens my possibilities for longer runs and time under power. I'm well aware that A2W can be superior in short bursts, but A2A is just better to me. I know that SRM and ECS have kits. The SRM is considerably cheaper. I know SRM has the SRM tax and an option for port injection (which isn't something I think I'll need). I haven't seen a shoot out between the two, but with the main difference being the IC cores, I would be hard pressed to think that the SRM core is $1500 better. I haven't seen a shoot out between the two as far as pressure drop over the core and cooling, but still. So I tentatively plan on buying the ECS. It may be a $1500 mistake, but if I end up chasing 1000hp or something I don't forsee, I doubt I'll mind that mistake anyways. But speaking of money, it would only cost about $1000 more to go A2A than upgrading all of the stock stuff anyways.

Undecided - Downpipe/exhaust - I really like how quiet this car is, and I don't want to ruin it. I also decatted my C7 and I don't want to do that it was so bad I bought the JHM pipes with cats to "recat" the car. I know dual 3 inch exhaust would be preferable, but I'm just not sure.

I'll slide an LPFP upgrade in there too, but I'll just keep an eye on the logs and go from there.

Any ideas or discussions are welcome.

[09S5]

Motor mount test .

https://youtube.com/shorts/D-CwAccrq...KhMXWdYBrAN6Uf

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[09S5]

Maybe useful found on ebay

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[09S5]

On this other forum, Audi World, they engage about the A8/S8 all the time.



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[Burkeomatic]

On this other forum, Audi World, they engage about the A8/S8 all the time.



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Thanks, I'm a member there. I think I signed up for the classifieds but never used them because the classifieds sucked.

As far as the intakes, I'm mainly concerned with the turbo elbows, I can take care of everything else.

[Burkeomatic]

Ok, I purchased these intakes from NP boosted, a place in Canada.

https://www.npboosted.com/products/h...-v8-tfsi-turbo

They're listed for C7 cars, but with a little modification they work on the D4 cars. I assume that most would want to cut their intakes anyway for the sake of easy service. If you didn't you'd run into fitment issues with the passenger side turbo inlet.

Here is the comparison to stock.



When I first fitted them up I couldn't get the drivers side inlet to seal on the turbo (which I didn't realize until I had it all back together). It was cocked slightly forward, and the passenger side was not sealed against the compressor housing.

I also ran into a dude on youtube who was having the same issues with the vargas ones. I assume these are all chinese knock offs of the srm ones (or srm has them made in china and the factory is screwing them over). Anyway, the solution that ended up working for me and seemed fairly obvious was grinding the obnoxiously tall welds down.



You can see the total amount of clearance I gained here, and the paint I used to mark what needed to be ground down.



I ran a scope down there to make sure it sealed this time. It's barely visible from the outside with the coolant/oil feed lines and such there. Makes me wonder how many people are going around with a leaky turbo inlet.



This is it all together, although not 100% necessary, a 45 degree elbow in the back made it fit considerably better. Fairly easy, not sure why I haven't seen more of these fitment issues documented, maybe i just didn't know to look. These would not fit without cutting your intakes on the A8. It would be fine in a C7. While a little big brain was needed, all in under $400, hard to beat

[19birel]

Nice work on the intake! Interested to see how this build pans out, IMO the D4 is the platform to get if you want to mod a 4.0T thanks to it having a ZF8 rather than S-Tronic like C7 S6/7. Surprised more folks aren't over here building these things

[NorthernGTI]

Honestly, car looks awesome. Very detailed thread.

[Burkeomatic]

Thanks guys.

You can definitely notice these aren't as light on their feet as the C7s. It isn't terrible, but noticable. I went ahead and moved up because my children are bigger than average (my daughter who turned 10 a couple months ago is 5'1").

I'm watching the s6/7 guys starting to swap in the zf8s since they're the same transmission (zf8 hp55) between all of the cars, even the RS7s and the S8s. So another good recipe would be to get one of those and swap it. But, this is still the cheapest way to get a zf8/4.0t combo. You can find them for around $20k now.

Then you're only a turbo swap away from having an S8 or RS6/7 aside from the higher compresion ratio.

On that note...

[NorthernGTI]

Thanks guys.

You can definitely notice these aren't as light on their feet as the C7s. It isn't terrible, but noticable. I went ahead and moved up because my children are bigger than average (my daughter who turned 10 a couple months ago is 5'1").

I'm watching the s6/7 guys starting to swap in the zf8s since they're the same transmission (zf8 hp55) between all of the cars, even the RS7s and the S8s. So another good recipe would be to get one of those and swap it. But, this is still the cheapest way to get a zf8/4.0t combo. You can find them for around $20k now.

Then you're only a turbo swap away from having an S8 or RS6/7 aside from the higher compresion ratio.

On that note...

813Garage on instagram just finished his swap for ZF on his big turbo S6. Super cool guy.

[Burkeomatic]

813Garage on instagram just finished his swap for ZF on his big turbo S6. Super cool guy.

I saw that, it's some good stuff!

I need to load up the pic of my super ghetto motor mount fix.

My passenger motor mount is shot, like really bad. All of the fluid looks like it has leaked out. Anywho, I ordered a passenger one from SRM, one of those real nice machined ones. Apparently they're still mining the metal for it.

So, I noticed the motor mounts on my Corolla were old. Heck, they probably haven't been changed in the 28 years of the car's life. So I bought an el cheapo tube of that urethane window adhesive to fill them in with. Then I got to thinking when I was installing my intakes, wow, the mount is just right there, I can see it clear as day. That mount always fails in tension, and there's that big metal hoop over the top that restrains it. So without actually removing anything from my car, I just smeared that window weld on a long paint stick and jammed it in and around that void. Let it sit overnight.... and it works great. Who knows how long it will hold, probably permanent, but I just did it temporarily as I plan on swapping that SRM mount in. 10/10 for a $15 repair that took 10 minutes. I can't get a good shot of it with my phone, I'll have to stick a borescope down there or something. So I did the Audi and the Corolla's mounts the same day so it was technically $15 for both cars. Such a win.

https://www.amazon.com/FORTIVO-Polyu...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

[NorthernGTI]

I saw that, it's some good stuff!

I need to load up the pic of my super ghetto motor mount fix.

My passenger motor mount is shot, like really bad. All of the fluid looks like it has leaked out. Anywho, I ordered a passenger one from SRM, one of those real nice machined ones. Apparently they're still mining the metal for it.

So, I noticed the motor mounts on my Corolla were old. Heck, they probably haven't been changed in the 28 years of the car's life. So I bought an el cheapo tube of that urethane window adhesive to fill them in with. Then I got to thinking when I was installing my intakes, wow, the mount is just right there, I can see it clear as day. That mount always fails in tension, and there's that big metal hoop over the top that restrains it. So without actually removing anything from my car, I just smeared that window weld on a long paint stick and jammed it in and around that void. Let it sit overnight.... and it works great. Who knows how long it will hold, probably permanent, but I just did it temporarily as I plan on swapping that SRM mount in. 10/10 for a $15 repair that took 10 minutes. I can't get a good shot of it with my phone, I'll have to stick a borescope down there or something. So I did the Audi and the Corolla's mounts the same day so it was technically $15 for both cars. Such a win.

https://www.amazon.com/FORTIVO-Polyu...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Good idea.

Your link doesnt work for me.

How did it feel driving?

[Burkeomatic]

Good idea.

Your link doesnt work for me.

How did it feel driving?

Huh, weird. Anyways, just type in window weld and buy the cheap alternative.

It feels a million times better than a floppy engine. I'd say it is equivalent to my C7 on 034 mounts or somewhere in there as far as NVH goes. I stuck a scope down there and tried to get a decent pic and I couldn't. Guess you'll just have to take my word for it.

[19birel]

I remember the B5 guys using that trick with strengthening transmission mounts, nice budget upgrade! I might try it on my GTI as aftermarket mounts for those cars are needlessly expensive.

[Burkeomatic]

I remember the B5 guys using that trick with strengthening transmission mounts, nice budget upgrade! I might try it on my GTI as aftermarket mounts for those cars are needlessly expensive.

I'd say it was more of a "lazy" upgrade. I ordered one of those SRM billet metal ones but it is just taking awhile. I needed to fill in the corolla mounts, so I figured I'd give this a shot since I had to crack open a whole tube of window weld. Also, I'd say it would work, or at least improve things and take some slack out if you just jammed a piece of hard rubber up in there or something. If you've got busted mounts, it can at least hold you over until you can repair it and you wouldn't have the annoying slop and risk of damaging something.

[kabukie]

I'd say it was more of a "lazy" upgrade. I ordered one of those SRM billet metal ones but it is just taking awhile. I needed to fill in the corolla mounts, so I figured I'd give this a shot since I had to crack open a whole tube of window weld. Also, I'd say it would work, or at least improve things and take some slack out if you just jammed a piece of hard rubber up in there or something. If you've got busted mounts, it can at least hold you over until you can repair it and you wouldn't have the annoying slop and risk of damaging something.

I’m curious how much additional NVH you experience with the solid mount. There’s mixed reports. Some complain it’s excessive, others say minimal.

[Burkeomatic]

I’m curious how much additional NVH you experience with the solid mount. There’s mixed reports. Some complain it’s excessive, others say minimal.

I don't notice, I also wouldn't call this solid. It's still mushy. My far better than a broken one.

It's highly subjective I'm sure. Some folks notice things others don't. I'd say I'm midpack sensitive. Somethings drive me nuts (I have a vibration in my corolla I cant track down and it kills me) and some more minor things don't. I don't find this or 034's mounts offensive.

[Burkeomatic]

Progress! Just waiting on my O-rings. I'll share some pointers after I'm done.

[Burkeomatic]

Heck yeah.

These RS7+ turbos spool faster than the stock ones. Ball bearings are awesome.

I mean, at the end of the day, this was just maintenance, right? The turbo oil seals were leaking, and the drivers side one had shaft play. This was way more economical than buying parts from the dealer, wasn't it?

[Burkeomatic]

Just as an FYI, but I followed this E85 sensor install guide here which was amazing. I just wanted to point out that you absolutely, positively need that metal 1 wire fuse tap thingamajig like he has pictured. There is not enough room for an add a fuse.

[Gunnarrrrr]

This man really wasted no time at all with those stock turbos. I like where this is going.


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[Burkeomatic]

This man really wasted no time at all with those stock turbos. I like where this is going.


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I mean... I couldn't have one fail, right?

Anywho, the only negative thing I have to say so far is that I wasn't prepared for the noise the fuel lines make between 1200 and 1500 rpm. It's truly annoying, and something that goes unmentioned quite a bit, so it's worth mentioning. I'm sure it would be far less noticeable with an exhaust or whatever, but frustrating regardless. My wife noticed it the first time she rode in the car. It's looking like I'm going to have to go through and insulate the whole line with something or do something to deaden the vibrations, I was also told a pulsation damper may work, but I don't know.

[kabukie]

I mean... I couldn't have one fail, right?

Anywho, the only negative thing I have to say so far is that I wasn't prepared for the noise the fuel lines make between 1200 and 1500 rpm. It's truly annoying, and something that goes unmentioned quite a bit, so it's worth mentioning. I'm sure it would be far less noticeable with an exhaust or whatever, but frustrating regardless. My wife noticed it the first time she rode in the car. It's looking like I'm going to have to go through and insulate the whole line with something or do something to deaden the vibrations, I was also told a pulsation damper may work, but I don't know.

I ordered the TGK mount. That paired with well placed zip ties eliminated my rattle.

[AndreiMTM]

I mean... I couldn't have one fail, right?

Anywho, the only negative thing I have to say so far is that I wasn't prepared for the noise the fuel lines make between 1200 and 1500 rpm. It's truly annoying, and something that goes unmentioned quite a bit, so it's worth mentioning. I'm sure it would be far less noticeable with an exhaust or whatever, but frustrating regardless. My wife noticed it the first time she rode in the car. It's looking like I'm going to have to go through and insulate the whole line with something or do something to deaden the vibrations, I was also told a pulsation damper may work, but I don't know.

I just fixed this on my S8! Not the prettiest install, but I bought a 3/4 inch radiator hose, split it down the middle, and wrapped the fuel like in it. On top of that I added some wiring harness cloth tape. So far so good! The vibrations were driving me crazy





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[STXA7]

Heck yeah.

These RS7+ turbos spool faster than the stock ones. Ball bearings are awesome.

I mean, at the end of the day, this was just maintenance, right? The turbo oil seals were leaking, and the drivers side one had shaft play. This was way more economical than buying parts from the dealer, wasn't it?

Damn that’s sexy a f awesome build man . Looks like you won’t regret ditching the A7 one bit after all


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[Burkeomatic]

Damn that’s sexy a f awesome build man . Looks like you won’t regret ditching the A7 one bit after all


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The A7 was definitely lighter on it's feet and the air suspension is a pain in the but, but my kiddos like the A8 better for sure.

[Burkeomatic]

Well, it finally got cold here a couple of days ago, I didn't drive my car for a few days after I got back from the weekend road trip. Anywho, I went to drive the car to church yesterday, and I noticed a puddle below it, which I thought may have been some left over moisture, except for where when I came back, it was still there! It was coolant... oof. I had puked out about 20oz of coolant. Of course, it isn't really leaking now. I pulled the bottom cover off and discovered it was the thermostat gasket. I figured I may as well just replace the thermostat, so I'll go by the Audi dealership and grab that tomorrow. Doesn't look that bad to change aside from that damned hose clamp that looks like a pain in the butt to get to.

[Burkeomatic]

I've got the thermostat changed, harder than it should have been. One of the few times I've taken apart more than the factory service manual suggested. The part number for the o-ring that goes in the hose that mates to the thermostat, and the hose that goes to the radiator where you drain it is. It isn't listed with the thermostat or the hose in the parts diagrams which makes it a pain, but the number is 4E0121666 and it looks like it's considerably cheaper online than at the audi dealership, I think I paid $4 each for those.

Also, I guess I failed to mention it, but I drove my daughter to NASA for the overnight experience they have there. About half way, I don't know why I checked the oil level, and I got "high oil level" warning. Well, crap. I knew what that meant. Also, as a side note, I had been having a fuel smell from the passenger side HPFP I couldn't quite diagnose. I vacuumed all the fuel out of the OE lines, and still the smell persisted in spite of the fact I kept torquing the hell out of the lines.

I don't see people talk about it alot, so I didn't think it was a big deal, but definitely change those HPFP seals when doing new plungers. I know that wasn't an option historically, but since it is now, I'd highly recommend. Either way, Tyler at TGK hooked me up and now I have new cam followers and HPFP seals along with some of that good rowe oil. Really, $120 is kind of a great deal for those and the cam followers that don't look like those janky rock auto ones I never actually used, which were probably fine, but looked like they could fall apart. Beats the hell out of replacing entire HPFP units.

https://tgkmotorsport.com/products/t...fp-rebuild-kit

There's also some on ALiexpress for $75 shipped... which after you take into account you don't get the cam followers, isn't the greatest deal.