Aftermarket OEM Engine Mounts

[Nosferatu]

I never had increased vibrations when mine failed. I only had a code and I know these are known to go bad. If you get a code that means it has failed and unable to vibrate any more. It is likely torn open. You could run the vibration test to verify via VCDS. I'm not sure how long you'd want to run on a failed mount.

I'm still trying to figure out the issue in leaving it alone if there's no symptoms and no actual code. I mean the general consumer / car owner aren't us. They start the car, drive it, and that's it. If there's a warning light then they take it in for service. They don't have OBD11, VCDS, etc. So if no faults and car is driving fine why am I jumping the gun to replace something like any other normal driver would do.

[A4x]

I'm still trying to figure out the issue in leaving it alone if there's no symptoms and no actual code. I mean the general consumer / car owner aren't us. They start the car, drive it, and that's it. If there's a warning light then they take it in for service. They don't have OBD11, VCDS, etc. So if no faults and car is driving fine why am I jumping the gun to replace something like any other normal driver would do.

Your earlier post said you have the code, but no other symptoms. Regarding the fluid leakage: you have to actually remove the belly pan and look closer to where the mount lives. The fluid will not get through the belly pan and onto the ground. Mine is leaking fluid but it doesn't reach the ground. It's not much fluid in there to leak and it doesnt run as far as an engine oil leak would.

I am in a similar boat, I have the soft code, and I do have fluid leaking from the passenger side. Recently, I got a CEL for the secondary air injection insufficient flow. I found the SAI line randomly disconnected at the front left of the engine. I can only assume this is due to my faulty passenger mount allowing the engine to flex more under load, and pulled on this connector. So that is one possible side effect of a faulty mount: other connections being tugged on and coming loose.

FYI the OEM mounts are on sale direct from Audi right now for $564. https://parts.audiusa.com/p/Audi_201...H0199256T.html

[Akakios]

i actually have the 034 mounts and was gonna put them on in next week or two. Turns out ECS has a sale where you get free mounts when you purchase a subframe brace from them. I most likely will put the ECS ones in and sell the 034 since they are new. Wanted to know if anyone had experience with the ECS mounts

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How are the ECS mounts compared to stock? Any noticeable NVH?

Still sitting in the box unfortunately.

We just brought on a new editor to help expedite video creation and allow us to get more parts installed faster.

EDIT:

You'll notice increased NVH at highway speeds and in COD mode if your mounts are busted. You can also hear a clunk when you press the gas and let off loading up the mounts. The buzz test is the easiest way to diagnose via VCDS/OBD11.

ECS Mounts included an emulator for the mounts, but you can't have the soft code already or you'll continue to have the soft code as VCDS won't be able to calibrate them eliminating the code.

[poloshirt]

[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]]I'm still trying to figure out the issue in leaving it alone if there's no symptoms and no actual code. I mean the general consumer / car owner aren't us. They start the car, drive it, and that's it. If there's a warning light then they take it in for service. They don't have OBD[emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]], VCDS, etc. So if no faults and car is driving fine why am I jumping the gun to replace something like any other normal driver would do.

No one is holding a gun to your head to replace them. It’s your car at the end of the day.

[A4x]

Regarding OEM mounts:

Local Audi dealer is telling me that the acceleration sensor (PN 4H0-907-508, $200) should be replaced if replacing the motor mount. Does anyone know about this? I feel like it is just their way of upselling both the customer and the warranty system. He said some techs have been burned by re-using the sensor, only to have to go back in and replace it.

The original mount part number for right side was 4H0-199-256-T ($600) and the links below indicate it comes with the acceleration sensor. However this 256T PN is not available anymore and has been revised to 4H0-199-384-B ($830) which does NOT include the sensor.

Some googling lead me to this post and this post which indicates the older 256T PN comes with the sensor (and it's cheaper) than the "new" revised PN 384B.

This post also has good info regarding the acceleration sensor.

[joeyjazesmith]

update I am mid process of changing my mounts. Got passenger out, currently at drivers. Have both 034 motorsports and ECS mounts. It seems the ECS mounts dont have both holes for the acceleration sensor. For me to use the acceleration sensor with the ECS mounts i would have to clip the nub of plastic thats meant to stabilize the sensor onto the mount. Has anyone come across this with ECS mounts. Gonna shoot them an email on Monday to ask.

[joeyjazesmith]

Regarding OEM mounts:

Local Audi dealer is telling me that the acceleration sensor (PN 4H0-907-508, $200) should be replaced if replacing the motor mount. Does anyone know about this? I feel like it is just their way of upselling both the customer and the warranty system. He said some techs have been burned by re-using the sensor, only to have to go back in and replace it.

The original mount part number for right side was 4H0-199-256-T ($600) and the links below indicate it comes with the acceleration sensor. However this 256T PN is not available anymore and has been revised to 4H0-199-384-B ($830) which does NOT include the sensor.

Some googling lead me to this post and this post which indicates the older 256T PN comes with the sensor (and it's cheaper) than the "new" revised PN 384B.

This post also has good info regarding the acceleration sensor.

Im in the process of changing mines. Im following 034 motorsports instructions and some videos i found on youtube. None of them mentioned having to replace the accelerator sensor, so thats what i am going with. After the way their mounts went, I would not trust going with an OEM mount. Based off of everything i have seen thus far, no one mentions having to change it out. It would be nice to confirm, before i finish with the engine mounts. Did anyone who complete this job, do this?

[Sla]

I bought it on Ali, it started leaking right away, literally within a month, the seller returned the money, he wasn’t particularly indignant, I bought it again on Ali from another seller, it’s still holding up, about 2 months have passed

Seven UP Auto Parts still travels
BBmart Auto Parts leaked

Seven UP Auto Parts.JPG


BBmart Auto Parts.JPG

[STXA7]

idk how i feel about the increasing number of posts from people buying aftermarket parts on aliexpress ... seems like a step too far, but we are all adults here making our own decisions. I second the sentiment of 'buy once, cry once'. Labor on these cars is too many hours / $$$ to be run the risk of performing the same job twice due to a sub-par quality part. I noticed my OEM mounts failed when taking off from red lights, there was a clunk. Confirmed by revving the engine in park and visually seeing it lift up under load. I've been on the 034 solid mounts for well over 40,000 miles by this point and could not be happier. the 'NVH' people worry about i very tolerable to me. If anything, I kind of love the way it feels with launch control. Having all the inserts + solid motor mount with the JXB drive carrier upgrade, you can feel the POWERRRR while holding launch rev and again during shifting. It makes my mangina wet every time.

[joeyjazesmith]

Hey just adding some pictures to show what i am talking about.

ECS engine mount vs stock mount - accelerator sensor location it seems that the ECS mount is missing a hole to hold the sensor in place





My Old Failed mount



Box of new parts including ECS mounts and 034 mounts



Accelerator sensor with the extra nub to go into the second hole in the mount to stabilize it on the mount

[poloshirt]

Look at the product page on ECS' website. They have pictures of their mount with the accelerometer installed.

[joeyjazesmith]

Look at the product page on ECS' website. They have pictures of their mount with the accelerometer installed.

Wow thank you for pointing that out, I checked and completely overlooked the picture. I see they just turned it sideways.

I think I will move forward with the ECS ones and maybe try to sell the 034 mounts. Im basing this only off of aesthetics and the fact that, because the ECS mounts are smaller they are easier to put in.

[Sla]

I agree, the RS7 is not the kind of car to buy parts on Ali, but!!! On ALI you can find original VAG parts at half the price, I bought for other cars and received an original part completely in its original packaging.
I work at a service station and the work is not free for me, but not full price either.. I sometimes buy parts on ALI so that I can understand and offer something to people who cannot buy the original..

This is not an advertisement, for example, the original sensor in Europe costs about $200, on ALI it costs $30 - I received it completely in the original packaging, with stickers, on the sensor itself there are VAG stamps


https://aliexpress.ru/item/100500468...martRedirect=y

[STXA7]

I agree, the RS7 is not the kind of car to buy parts on Ali, but!!! On ALI you can find original VAG parts at half the price, I bought for other cars and received an original part completely in its original packaging.
I work at a service station and the work is not free for me, but not full price either.. I sometimes buy parts on ALI so that I can understand and offer something to people who cannot buy the original..

This is not an advertisement, for example, the original sensor in Europe costs about $200, on ALI it costs $30 - I received it completely in the original packaging, with stickers, on the sensor itself there are VAG stamps


https://aliexpress.ru/item/100500468...martRedirect=y

There are some OEM suppliers like lemforder who you can buy for less price … but they will grind off the Audi / VW logo in most cases. Just because your Ali product has authentic appearing markings / packaging, that doesn’t mean the part is up to OEM standard. Many years ago I ordered brand new expensive brand name golf clubs from eBay , and each club had perfect looking plastic individual wrapping with all the correct logos and trademarks. Same for the boxes high quality ink printing on it. The only way to identify that they were not authentic was when using them , I could feel the metal balancing / density felt poor compared to my older authentic set from same company. Upon closer inspection I confirmed they were fake because they’re supposed to be forged one piece head and shaft, but were not. Just cautioning everyone against trusting authenticity based on “authentic” packaging. You see this with other luxury goods like purses and watches where you get QR codes and serial numbers that validate through a cloned website, and fail to validate on the official company website.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Sla]

If Lemförder made engine mounts for these cars, I would try it, OEM is unreasonably expensive, so I’m trying alternatives, but I’m not surprised that you can buy original quality on ALI because VAG has power in China

[joeyjazesmith]

Got both of the mounts in, starting t button everything up, but i think my subframe maybe slightly off as i cant get the driver side mount to align with mounting bracket on the engine, its off by like 2mm. Got the other passenger side in, no issue

[joeyjazesmith]

finally finished this weekend, got the ECS mounts on, also put on their subframe and 034 street density control arms and swaybar links. According to ECS website it will be around 2000 miles before break in.

Initial startup: Best way I can put it, its like going from a luxury car to a muscle car. You feel the engine, the sound travels into the cabin more and even the regular driving mode feels dynamic. I can see how some may not like it, but as a car guy i kind of like it. Still early to tell for sure, but I will try and follow up with an update after 2k miles

[STXA7]

finally finished this weekend, got the ECS mounts on, also put on their subframe and 034 street density control arms and swaybar links. According to ECS website it will be around 2000 miles before break in.

Initial startup: Best way I can put it, its like going from a luxury car to a muscle car. You feel the engine, the sound travels into the cabin more and even the regular driving mode feels dynamic. I can see how some may not like it, but as a car guy i kind of like it. Still early to tell for sure, but I will try and follow up with an update after 2k miles

Congrats on getting it done. Now every morning you’re going to wake up with a stiff.. drivetrain hooyeaa. It feels even tighter with the subframe inserts and its gets extra hard with the drive carrier upgrade. When you’re going nice and slow it feels good but then you smash the accelerator pedal all the way real good you’re gonna feel it inside you … the urge to take off your traction control and whip it out the parking lot like a wild mustang. That Quattro feel so good when you ride that long gentle curve ohhhyeaaa. What are we talking about again jaja


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[joeyjazesmith]

Congrats on getting it done. Now every morning you’re going to wake up with a stiff.. drivetrain hooyeaa. It feels even tighter with the subframe inserts and its gets extra hard with the drive carrier upgrade. When you’re going nice and slow it feels good but then you smash the accelerator pedal all the way real good you’re gonna feel it inside you … the urge to take off your traction control and whip it out the parking lot like a wild mustang. That Quattro feel so good when you ride that long gentle curve ohhhyeaaa. What are we talking about again jaja


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

SMH ROFLMAO

[benznotmercedes]

I have the 034 mounts sitting there ready to go and was waiting for mine to go bad. Just noticed the driver side mount is leaking... the not fun one to replace. lol.

Symptoms: increased vibrations; when taking off from a light in D it almost jolts and the ecu cuts power. Doesn't do it in manual.

[joeyjazesmith]

Selling my unused 034 street density mounts, if anyone is interested

[joeyjazesmith]

I have the 034 mounts sitting there ready to go and was waiting for mine to go bad. Just noticed the driver side mount is leaking... the not fun one to replace. lol.

Symptoms: increased vibrations; when taking off from a light in D it almost jolts and the ecu cuts power. Doesn't do it in manual.

Not sure about this but from what I heard, if you want the sensor delete to work properly they have to be changed before the mounts fails. If you change after the mount fails they will continue to show an error with the mounts.

[NorthernGTI]

I agree, the RS7 is not the kind of car to buy parts on Ali, but!!! On ALI you can find original VAG parts at half the price, I bought for other cars and received an original part completely in its original packaging.
I work at a service station and the work is not free for me, but not full price either.. I sometimes buy parts on ALI so that I can understand and offer something to people who cannot buy the original..

This is not an advertisement, for example, the original sensor in Europe costs about $200, on ALI it costs $30 - I received it completely in the original packaging, with stickers, on the sensor itself there are VAG stamps


https://aliexpress.ru/item/100500468...martRedirect=y

Do you know the name of the company on aliexpress? Your link doesnt work for me in Canada

[benznotmercedes]

Couple of things I want to add after completing this job myself

• Harbor freight 1000lb engine support bar worked perfectly and was long enough to rest on either side of the frame (OP's was not long enough). I used the rear set of engine hoist points connected directly to the engine support spindles (no chains) https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...ne+support+bar

• You can do this job on jack stands

• I purchased a cross beam jack adapter to help with lowering the subframe safely https://www.harborfreight.com/brands...eam-64051.html

• 034's provided install instructions tell you to lower the "transmission [jack]" roughly 1 inch. In my case I lowered the subframe 3.5 inches to give enough room to decouple the brackets and pull out the mounts

• The engine harness that is routed through the passenger side of the subframe should be pushed back through the hole in the subframe where the motor mount bolt is accessed. My passenger side mount kept getting caught on the harness.

• The engine mount bracket for the driver side mount is by far the trickiest to maneuver. I found it helpful to reach through the driver side wheel well (through the space between the subframe and frame) to pull up on the mount while pushing the bracket towards the rear of the car. There is a lot of free space behind the driver side axle near the auxiliary coolant pump.

• New tty bolts are a must
  
  Engine mount bolt - N91275001 x2
  Subframe bolt - WHT005657 x8
  Lower control arm bolt - N10241202 x2

Bumping these instructions -- in the process now of doing my 034 mounts and am almost done but have not been able to get the mount bolted to the block. Passenger side of the motor won't drop back down the last inch to align and seems like if anything its a quarter inch too far back. I've tried aligning the subframe etc. Did you mean the harness was getting caught and preventing the engine from dropping down enough on the passenger side? I think I'm clear but will check tonight.

What's weird is the passenger side didn't require the subframe to be lowered at all, you'd think it would be easy to line everything back up. The driver side turned out to be easier to line up though.

[poloshirt]

[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]]]]Bumping these instructions -- in the process now of doing my [emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]]] mounts and am almost done but have not been able to get the mount bolted to the block. Passenger side of the motor won't drop back down the last inch to align and seems like if anything its a quarter inch too far back. I've tried aligning the subframe etc. Did you mean the harness was getting caught and preventing the engine from dropping down enough on the passenger side? I think I'm clear but will check tonight.

What's weird is the passenger side didn't require the subframe to be lowered at all, you'd think it would be easy to line everything back up. The driver side turned out to be easier to line up though.

No I meant the harness was catching the passenger mount during removal and install. I actually didn’t have to manipulate the engine at all when I did this. Only had to readjust the subframe to get the engine mount bracket on the engine to slot into the V shaped groove on the engine mount. Is the subframe bolted all the way up or is it loose still?

[joeyjazesmith]

Bumping these instructions -- in the process now of doing my 034 mounts and am almost done but have not been able to get the mount bolted to the block. Passenger side of the motor won't drop back down the last inch to align and seems like if anything its a quarter inch too far back. I've tried aligning the subframe etc. Did you mean the harness was getting caught and preventing the engine from dropping down enough on the passenger side? I think I'm clear but will check tonight.

What's weird is the passenger side didn't require the subframe to be lowered at all, you'd think it would be easy to line everything back up. The driver side turned out to be easier to line up though.

I had this same issue when doing the job. I completely loosened the subframe to get the drivers side engine mount out. It gave me the clearance to take them out and put the new ones in. The issue came when raising everything back to line up the engine mounts to the engine. When we got one side lined up but, the other one would be off by a few millimeters. I dropped the engine to its original height, i left the rear bolts on the subframe semi snug and the front ones completely loose. Once i got one side in, i used a crowbar to shift the subframe until my cousin was able to get the bolt through. It took a couple of tries over the course of the afternoon, but we got it in. Once in we got the subframe as straight as we could we torqued it down.

[benznotmercedes]

I had this same issue when doing the job. I completely loosened the subframe to get the drivers side engine mount out. It gave me the clearance to take them out and put the new ones in. The issue came when raising everything back to line up the engine mounts to the engine. When we got one side lined up but, the other one would be off by a few millimeters. I dropped the engine to its original height, i left the rear bolts on the subframe semi snug and the front ones completely loose. Once i got one side in, i used a crowbar to shift the subframe until my cousin was able to get the bolt through. It took a couple of tries over the course of the afternoon, but we got it in. Once in we got the subframe as straight as we could we torqued it down.

Thanks, this is really helpful. I hadn't thought about lowering the engine all the way before lifting the subframe?

So you had the front subframe bolts loose and lifted the mount up and bolted it to the block and then lined the frame bolts on the bracket? Or did you raise the subframe and mount together?

[joeyjazesmith]

Thanks, this is really helpful. I hadn't thought about lowering the engine all the way before lifting the subframe?

So you had the front subframe bolts loose and lifted the mount up and bolted it to the block and then lined the frame bolts on the bracket? Or did you raise the subframe and mount together?

I used the harborfreight engine support bar and had a jack under the engine. I got the engine as close as i could to its original position. I used the harbor freight transmission jack to support subframe. I had the engine mounts bolted on the subframe first. (For the subframe I had the four rear bolts snug on the subframe to help support it, I had the four bolts on the front of the subframe loose enough so i could shift it around) I lifted the subframe until the engine mount lined up with engine. I could only get one to line up at a time so when the first side line up i put the bolt in. Than I took a crow bar to shift it around until the other side lined up (i had a second person look while i shifted with the crowbar). It did take time and a few attempts but we eventually got it to line up. on the front of the subframe are holes that line up with holes on the chassis. You can use this to try and line up the subframe visually. Usually there is a tool that would fit in there, but i could not find one for sale and maybe a dealer only item.

[joeyjazesmith]

I used the harborfreight engine support bar and had a jack under the engine. I got the engine as close as i could to its original position. I used the harbor freight transmission jack to support subframe. I had the engine mounts bolted on the subframe first. (For the subframe I had the four rear bolts snug on the subframe to help support it, I had the four bolts on the front of the subframe loose enough so i could shift it around) I lifted the subframe until the engine mount lined up with engine. I could only get one to line up at a time so when the first side line up i put the bolt in. Than I took a crow bar to shift it around until the other side lined up (i had a second person look while i shifted with the crowbar). It did take time and a few attempts but we eventually got it to line up. on the front of the subframe are holes that line up with holes on the chassis. You can use this to try and line up the subframe visually. Usually there is a tool that would fit in there, but i could not find one for sale and maybe a dealer only item.

Engine Supported from top



Subframe and engine supported from bottom



Engine mounts mounted to subframe first before mounting subframe to chassis (VIDEO)

https://imgur.com/rNzXb2i

After first engine mount was bolted, other side would slightly be off, so I would use the crow bar on the subframe to shift it until it lined up

[benznotmercedes]

Thanks for all the help. I went back to the garage last night after work. I was able to get the passenger side engine mount bolted up by leaving everything loose, dropping the subframe down, and lowering the engine down past where it would normally sit. I then used a floor jack to lift the subframe up and after probably 10 different tries (I was working by myself) I was able to get the passenger side done. The driver side is 1/4-1/2" off, so I'll figure that out. But definitely encouraging. Right now I think the driver side mount bracket is pinned on something and won't move even though all the bolts are loose.

[joeyjazesmith]

Thanks for all the help. I went back to the garage last night after work. I was able to get the passenger side engine mount bolted up by leaving everything loose, dropping the subframe down, and lowering the engine down past where it would normally sit. I then used a floor jack to lift the subframe up and after probably 10 different tries (I was working by myself) I was able to get the passenger side done. The driver side is 1/4-1/2" off, so I'll figure that out. But definitely encouraging. Right now I think the driver side mount bracket is pinned on something and won't move even though all the bolts are loose.

Yea im not gonna lie, it was annoying at first and required multiple attempts, but with one person at the bolt and another person to shift things around will make it a little easier. Hope it works out for you

[joeyjazesmith]

Thanks for all the help. I went back to the garage last night after work. I was able to get the passenger side engine mount bolted up by leaving everything loose, dropping the subframe down, and lowering the engine down past where it would normally sit. I then used a floor jack to lift the subframe up and after probably 10 different tries (I was working by myself) I was able to get the passenger side done. The driver side is 1/4-1/2" off, so I'll figure that out. But definitely encouraging. Right now I think the driver side mount bracket is pinned on something and won't move even though all the bolts are loose.

Also just noticed, when ECS did it, they attached the mounts to the engine first than lowered it onto the subframe. That might have even helped me when I had trouble. Hope that helps

[benznotmercedes]

Also just noticed, when ECS did it, they attached the mounts to the engine first than lowered it onto the subframe. That might have even helped me when I had trouble. Hope that helps

I got them installed! Had another issue which means I have to do some teardown but unrelated to the mounts. Drove great on the brief test drive I had though.

[joeyjazesmith]

I got them installed! Had another issue which means I have to do some teardown but unrelated to the mounts. Drove great on the brief test drive I had though.

Nice congratulations !!!

[A4x]

Alright 4.0T fam, need some advice. Do I go with the 034 mounts for $750 with lifetime replacement, or a single OEM right side mount for $990 with lifetime replacement from ECS?

I value the comfort aspect of the S6. Would the 034 cause a lot of noise and vibration when cruising on the highway? My 4-cyl mode is active.

My right side mount is shot. I would prefer to only install the right side mount since it is much easier. I have read of others installing one 034 mount at a time.

[joeyjazesmith]

Alright 4.0T fam, need some advice. Do I go with the 034 mounts for $750 with lifetime replacement, or a single OEM right side mount for $990 with lifetime replacement from ECS?

I value the comfort aspect of the S6. Would the 034 cause a lot of noise and vibration when cruising on the highway? My 4-cyl mode is active.

My right side mount is shot. I would prefer to only install the right side mount since it is much easier. I have read of others installing one 034 mount at a time.

I ended up going with the ECS mounts, and did not use the 034 ones. If you decide to go the 034 route I'll sell you the ones i didnt use for 500, lol i dont do lifetime warranties though lol

[schonc]

Alright 4.0T fam, need some advice. Do I go with the 034 mounts for $750 with lifetime replacement, or a single OEM right side mount for $990 with lifetime replacement from ECS?

I value the comfort aspect of the S6. Would the 034 cause a lot of noise and vibration when cruising on the highway? My 4-cyl mode is active.

My right side mount is shot. I would prefer to only install the right side mount since it is much easier. I have read of others installing one 034 mount at a time.

I did 034 mounts not too long ago. Same situation as you; passenger side in two pieces, driver side was warn but still ok.
After finishing the job and looking at the driver side up close in my hands, I thought it may have been better off to just swap the passenger side out with another active mount and retain the active mount function. Driver side is significantly more effort than passenger side. I was however replacing control arms at the same time so it wasn't a huge additional effort to get the other mount out.

How does it compare? I don't know as I bought the car with a busted passenger mount (got a discount for it). But now I'll always wonder lol

Sent from my SM-S911W using Tapatalk

[joeyjazesmith]

I did 034 mounts not too long ago. Same situation as you; passenger side in two pieces, driver side was warn but still ok.
After finishing the job and looking at the driver side up close in my hands, I thought it may have been better off to just swap the passenger side out with another active mount and retain the active mount function. Driver side is significantly more effort than passenger side. I was however replacing control arms at the same time so it wasn't a huge additional effort to get the other mount out.

How does it compare? I don't know as I bought the car with a busted passenger mount (got a discount for it). But now I'll always wonder lol

Sent from my SM-S911W using Tapatalk

I agree with this, if you're going to do one at a time than stick with the oem to match the one on the drivers side. I also didnt see that you still have 4cyl mode activated. If thats the case I would only stick with OEM as 034 and ECS both require 4cyl mode to be de-activated IIRC. My biggest concern with stock was just that they failed pretty soon, and im not even sure if there is anything that can be done to prevent it. The biggest change with the ECS mounts is you feel the rumble of the engine more at startup and sports mode. After that while cruising its the same. When low in the gears you do get the vibrations as if you were driving a manual which i dont think is bad. I heard the 034 mounts are even more closer to stock in feel because they use rubber instead of the polyurethane in the ECS ones but i never confirmed.

[Blackcoog]

Alright 4.0T fam, need some advice. Do I go with the 034 mounts for $750 with lifetime replacement, or a single OEM right side mount for $990 with lifetime replacement from ECS?

I value the comfort aspect of the S6. Would the 034 cause a lot of noise and vibration when cruising on the highway? My 4-cyl mode is active.

My right side mount is shot. I would prefer to only install the right side mount since it is much easier. I have read of others installing one 034 mount at a time.

034 mounts vibrations are so slight you wouldn't know about it unless I pointed it out to you when you were in the car at idle. There is no noise difference or issues when driving.

[A4x]

034 mounts vibrations are so slight you wouldn't know about it unless I pointed it out to you when you were in the car at idle. There is no noise difference or issues when driving.

Even in 4 cylinder mode?