My second AR

[ShelbyM3]

Pretty stoked on this little beauty. 2004 Allroad 4.2 with 204,000 miles. I know my 2.7T in and out, but it’s time to learn all about the glorious 4.2!










It’s kinda cool how similar, but different my 03 2.7T and now this 04 4.2 are. Like they both need compressor rebuilds! Haha. But also the steering wheel controls are different, the 4.2 has a power adjust steering wheel and memory, folding mirrors, OnStar, and other little oddities.

So let’s get down to it. I need a bagpippin’ Andy rebuild for the compressor, she’s got an oil leak and I can smell burning after a drive (hoping this is valve covers), and the biggest issue was an intermittent vibration (hoping this IS NOT the carrier bearing). The vibration is weird. I drove it 4 hours over a mountain pass and could not place my finger on it. I felt it in my body, not the wheel. Worse under load and acceleration, but not always present during that scenario. It would increase in intensity at times and if I let up a little it could go away, but not always. Didn’t feel like an axel or wheel bearing. No sound associated with it. There were a couple times I swore I had “death wobble” going on like a solid front axle pickup, but mostly it was pretty mild. And lastly, once we hit the freeway, 75 mph seemed to let the vibration shine while cruising. Please don’t be a carrier bearing!

Time to start digging in! Any and all 4.2 “while you’re in there” help is much appreciated


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[Audibot]

Congrats(?) dude! She looks good cosmetically for that many miles.

On the vibration, how does it feel at idle? Thinking maybe engine mounts. Last time I had a carrier bearing it was worst at just under 30 mph. Obviously each is different.

[oasis]

Always wanted liked the look of the allroad, but I'm not masochistic enough to own two audis :)

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[ShelbyM3]

I’m a glutton, apparently. But, I just love these C5 long roofs. She’s a 2 owner vehicle and was serviced at a reputable shop for the last 7 years. Repairs were done correctly, but like most C5’s, she’s a little rough here and there. Not everything was addressed. A lot of interior wear and tear, but nothing crazy.

Good call on the motor mounts. At idle the engine seems very smooth. I’ll have someone help me out and double check for engine movement in park. The engine does jostle the car on start up.


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[jbain2]

Love the (mostly) FBP!


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[SUBAMMAS]

If I put the stock wheels back on, your car will have a twin just up I5 from you.

[Bordom]

If I put the stock wheels back on, your car will have a twin just up I5 from you.

Sounds like your volunteering with maintenance lmao

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[ShelbyM3]

Love the (mostly) FBP!


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Thanks Man! Inorite!? I actually like it best with the bumper strip, for some reason.


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[ShelbyM3]

If I put the stock wheels back on, your car will have a twin just up I5 from you.

I had no idea they were 18’s. I figured it was a 17” wheel. Kinda bummed, but kinda cool.


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[ShelbyM3]

Sounds like your volunteering with maintenance lmao

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More hands, makes less work!


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[SUBAMMAS]

Sounds like your volunteering with maintenance lmao

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Maintenance? What's that?? I just drive the thing!

Seriously, tho... I've been very blessed in not (knock on wood) experiencing many of the common issues these cars have, due to the fact that mine is a low-mile example. I do, however, need to replace the valve cover gaskets. I have the parts, just been procrastinating. Oh, and the oil pressure sensor failed (which made me pucker a bit), and the alt belt cut loose. PITA having to put the front end in service position just to change the alternator belt!

[SUBAMMAS]

I had no idea they were 18’s. I figured it was a 17” wheel. Kinda bummed, but kinda cool.


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Yup. And they're heavier than sh*t. When I put the 20's on, they were significantly lighter, and the ride quality and handling improved dramatically.

[ShelbyM3]

Maintenance? What's that?? I just drive the thing!

Seriously, tho... I've been very blessed in not (knock on wood) experiencing many of the common issues these cars have, due to the fact that mine is a low-mile example. I do, however, need to replace the valve cover gaskets. I have the parts, just been procrastinating. Oh, and the oil pressure sensor failed (which made me pucker a bit), and the alt belt cut loose. PITA having to put the front end in service position just to change the alternator belt!

That’s rad. I’m hoping for a couple good years.
I’m thinking I may also be in for valve cover gaskets. Maybe even an oil filter housing gasket. I haven’t looked at all, just been driving her. My belly pan is pretty saturated and she leaves a little golfball sized oil mark toward the rear of the engine. Could just be the flow off the belly pan, also.
While I’ve got your attention, what is the “whine” like noise on startup? It sounds almost electrical in nature, but could be mechanical. It goes away by the time I’m out of my neighborhood, but it’s got me feeling insecure about my timing. I’ve watched videos and hear it in other 4.2’s. I have no chain rattle and with 204,000 miles I know it’s been done at least once, but will need to be done again soon. PO also said the alternator was “serviced” last year and apparently it’s NLA. Haven’t verified that yet. Maybe power steering pump? SAI?
I need to establish a baseline sound for this engine. Thanks if anyone wants to chime in.


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[SUBAMMAS]

That’s rad. I’m hoping for a couple good years.
I’m thinking I may also be in for valve cover gaskets. Maybe even an oil filter housing gasket. I haven’t looked at all, just been driving her. My belly pan is pretty saturated and she leaves a little golfball sized oil mark toward the rear of the engine. Could just be the flow off the belly pan, also.
While I’ve got your attention, what is the “whine” like noise on startup? It sounds almost electrical in nature, but could be mechanical. It goes away by the time I’m out of my neighborhood, but it’s got me feeling insecure about my timing. I’ve watched videos and hear it in other 4.2’s. I have no chain rattle and with 204,000 miles I know it’s been done at least once, but will need to be done again soon. PO also said the alternator was “serviced” last year and apparently it’s NLA. Haven’t verified that yet. Maybe power steering pump? SAI?
I need to establish a baseline sound for this engine. Thanks if anyone wants to chime in.


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Yeah, mine has the first-of-the-day startup whine, too. Pretty pronounced, I might add. I'd put money on it being hydraulic, namely the PS pump. Like yours, mine quiets down before I get out of my neighborhood. I don't have any PS leaks that I can see, but I do have the same oil leaks as yours. I took the belly pan off a while ago, and it was well soaked with oil. I'll put it back once the valve cover gaskets are changed. I think mine has a bit of chain rattle on startup (before the oil pressure comes up and pumps up the tensioners), but also goes quickly quiet. Is this normal? I don't know. Mine only has a tick over 100k on the clock, now. It runs smooth and quiet, otherwise.

[ShelbyM3]

Yeah, mine has the first-of-the-day startup whine, too. Pretty pronounced, I might add. I'd put money on it being hydraulic, namely the PS pump. Like yours, mine quiets down before I get out of my neighborhood. I don't have any PS leaks that I can see, but I do have the same oil leaks as yours. I took the belly pan off a while ago, and it was well soaked with oil. I'll put it back once the valve cover gaskets are changed. I think mine has a bit of chain rattle on startup (before the oil pressure comes up and pumps up the tensioners), but also goes quickly quiet. Is this normal? I don't know. Mine only has a tick over 100k on the clock, now. It runs smooth and quiet, otherwise.

Much appreciated!
I do see a bunch of gunk around my PS reservoir so I’m going to investigate that, as well. I don’t suspect it’s an issue, per se, I just want to know what it is and be able to tell when it’s different, if that makes sense.

I’m kind of really enjoying having an automatic, it’s only my second auto ever, but I’m so out of touch with my speed! This car is a pleasure to drive and there’s so much more room for activities, relative to my B8 S4.

I have started to notice a bit of NVH at idle while stopped at a light. I’m thinking motor mounts are in my future, like previously suggested. The vibration I felt coming over the mountain is only noticeable at freeway speeds now that I’m dailying it in the burbs and my freeway travel is very small. I checked tire pressure and 3/4 were in the 30’s with one at 5 psi. Didn’t make a difference, though. I’m almost wondering if maybe a tire is out of balance more so than a mechanical issue. I may swap wheels, I have too many, and see if that makes a difference. I think I’ll slap my 16’s on and see how she looks and drives with the meats.


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[ShelbyM3]

Got my bagpipping Andy compressor rebuild kit in this week. Think I’ll have to wait until next week, though, Dad weekend with my wife working her 12’s.
I recently discovered I don’t have a rear window sprayer. I can hear the pump running, but no dice. So I jumped on the internets. I cleaned out the jet with a thumb tack and a little WD-40 hoping it was clogged. It’s not clogged. I let the pump run longer and then heard water trickling. Thankfully it’s not in the roof but just inside the rear hatch. I thought I’d read it comes across the driver’s side roof line, but my whole passenger side was blue. Even shot outside on the quarter panel. My rear hatch trim is completely shot, aside from a nice working sun shade, so I’m hoping to source a new one and tackle the sprayer issue this summer. For now, I’ll deal.


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[Audibot]

On my old Allroad, I also had it where the rear washer jet did not work.

It turns out the line for the rear wiper is this little corrugated-type that runs behind the dead pedal along the driver's side floor. When I used it, I could see washer fluid just spraying out because it somehow got disconnected. Never had an issue after reconnecting (maybe throw some tape so it doesn't come apart again)

Edit: Looks like you saw it coming out the rear hatch, so disregard

[ShelbyM3]

Got my bagpipping Andy compressor rebuild kit in this week. Think I’ll have to wait until next week, though, Dad weekend with my wife working her 12’s.
I recently discovered I don’t have a rear window sprayer. I can hear the pump running, but no dice. So I jumped on the internets. I cleaned out the jet with a thumb tack and a little WD-40 hoping it was clogged. It’s not clogged. I let the pump run longer and then heard water trickling. Thankfully it’s not in the roof but just inside the rear hatch. I thought I’d read it comes across the driver’s side roof line, but my whole passenger side was blue. Even shot outside on the quarter panel. My rear hatch trim is completely shot, aside from a nice working sun shade, so I’m hoping to source a new one and tackle the sprayer issue this summer. For now, I’ll deal.


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I’m pretty sure I read through threads with you posting in them! Driver’s kick panel then makes its way over toward the passenger’s side rear quarter, up and then down the hatch at the hinge, I believe.


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[Avantly]

I have 3x 2.7T and 3x 4.2 allroads (have sold off several other 2.7T allroads). I have a 2004 4.2 which is literally identical to yours, painted fender flares and everything... I wonder how far apart they were on the production line. It is definitely my favorite allroad. I also have atlas gray, brilliant black, cobalt blue, and highland green but something about the light silver metallic with painted flares and tinted windows is just fantastic. Really nice looking car you have there.

Tip: Buy a spare crankshaft sensor and store it in the spare wheel well. You can change it with a single hex bit from under the hood if you're willing to sacrifice just a bit of skin on your wrist and/or arm. I've had the crank sensor fail in every single one of my chain driven 4.2 AR's. Mainfests as a sudden stall at warm/hot with no codes (and no restart until it cools) and develops into a no-start at any temperature usually with no codes. I'd also keep a spare hella or other OEM brand ECT with it(causes warm/hot difficult start or no start which gets worse and worse). IMO these are the only two things that have the possibility of stranding you if you do all of the regular/scheduled maintenance other than fuel pump if your fuel filter has been neglected since new (but you can replace the fuel pump under the rear seat cushion!). Other than that, pay attention to the transmission and if you get the hard shift issue (if it hasn't been corrected before) put a TransGO PR shift correction kit in it. Absolutely fantastic car. I loved my 2.7T allroads for many years... Then I got a 4.2 allroad... Now all the 2.7T allroads need to be sold (including the atlas gray with painfully low odometer reading) :'(

FYI, you can get new cylinders for the air pumps on eBay from some chinesium company if your piston bore is fooked and they seem to work decent, I use the eBay repair kits for the air pumps which are identical to the Andy kits but usually include a few more parts. Never buy a new pump, always rebuild!

Oh, and one more thing, all of my 4.2 AR's had stuck flaps in the intake when I got them, causes some interesting behavior and fuel trim codes. You can fix without removing the intake, you have to remove the fastener on the front of the flap actuator and carefully weedle that actuator arm out of there, clean the area out, lube with silicone grease and reinstall. Have only had to do it once on each car. If you get fuel trim/random misfire codes always check this first. Mine were all stuck solid, even the one that had a 45k mile engine installed in it.

[ShelbyM3]

I have 3x 2.7T and 3x 4.2 allroads (have sold off several other 2.7T allroads). I have a 2004 4.2 which is literally identical to yours, painted fender flares and everything... I wonder how far apart they were on the production line. It is definitely my favorite allroad. I also have atlas gray, brilliant black, cobalt blue, and highland green but something about the light silver metallic with painted flares and tinted windows is just fantastic. Really nice looking car you have there.

Tip: Buy a spare crankshaft sensor and store it in the spare wheel well. You can change it with a single hex bit from under the hood if you're willing to sacrifice just a bit of skin on your wrist and/or arm. I've had the crank sensor fail in every single one of my chain driven 4.2 AR's. Mainfests as a sudden stall at warm/hot with no codes (and no restart until it cools) and develops into a no-start at any temperature usually with no codes. I'd also keep a spare hella or other OEM brand ECT with it(causes warm/hot difficult start or no start which gets worse and worse). IMO these are the only two things that have the possibility of stranding you if you do all of the regular/scheduled maintenance other than fuel pump if your fuel filter has been neglected since new (but you can replace the fuel pump under the rear seat cushion!). Other than that, pay attention to the transmission and if you get the hard shift issue (if it hasn't been corrected before) put a TransGO PR shift correction kit in it. Absolutely fantastic car. I loved my 2.7T allroads for many years... Then I got a 4.2 allroad... Now all the 2.7T allroads need to be sold (including the atlas gray with painfully low odometer reading) :'(

FYI, you can get new cylinders for the air pumps on eBay from some chinesium company if your piston bore is fooked and they seem to work decent, I use the eBay repair kits for the air pumps which are identical to the Andy kits but usually include a few more parts. Never buy a new pump, always rebuild!

Oh, and one more thing, all of my 4.2 AR's had stuck flaps in the intake when I got them, causes some interesting behavior and fuel trim codes. You can fix without removing the intake, you have to remove the fastener on the front of the flap actuator and carefully weedle that actuator arm out of there, clean the area out, lube with silicone grease and reinstall. Have only had to do it once on each car. If you get fuel trim/random misfire codes always check this first. Mine were all stuck solid, even the one that had a 45k mile engine installed in it.

Dang, I wanna hangout! Hahaha, I dream of that many Allroads. You have (had) quite the fleet!
I appreciate the kind words. I am finding it pretty eye catching the more I own it. I’ve never been a silver guy, but I couldn’t agree more. I hope to keep her around and going for many years to come.
Noted! Sounds a bit like the 2.7 crank no start issues one may face. I assume ECT is engine coolant temp sensor. I’ve got carni hands and can usually fit into small spots alright. Ha!
At 200,000 miles what maintenance would you recommend? I can only assuming timing maintenance has been done. I hear none-1 second of rattle on start up and nothing else. I wish I knew if they went plastic or metal on the guides, but maybe there’s a way to tell? Do I need to worry about anything outside of the timing chains and guides? Camshaft adjusters?

I have loose plans to address:
-Oil and filter
-Oil filter housing o-rings
-Spark plugs
-Air filter
-Cabin filter
-Fuel filter
-Air compressor rebuild
-Intake manifold clean and inspect
-Valve cover gaskets
-Valley pan gasket
-Oil check valves
-Rear diff fluid
-Brake fluid flush and 4 corner brake job
-PCV refresh and SAI refresh ( if needed )
-CV axles? ( Are they the same between 2.7 and 4.2 autos? )
-Crank position sensor ( on standby )
-Coolant temp sensor ( on standby )

So far the transmission seems ok, but I’m afraid to jinx it or put bad vibes out into the universe 🥹 Part of me wants to service it, and part of me wants to leave well enough alone until there’s a reason to take action. I’ve never worked on an automatic transmission before and I know the filling procedure can be a bother.


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[Avantly]

Yes, ECT is coolant temp sensor, extremely common failure on the VAG cars in general and also a cheap sensor. I've seen more than a few people on the forums mention that they keep a spare ECT in the glove box!

I know on the belted 4.2's there is a plastic coolant tube between the oil cooler and block and that tube likes to break at higher mileage, people call it an "engine out" job but I think it's really just a "lift the engine a little/drop the cross member a little" job. Have not had to do that repair which makes me wonder if the BAS 4.2 has a different part, I have not compared parts diagrams.

Definitely check the oil filter housing seal but in general my experience has been *far* fewer oil leaks from the 4.2 than the 2.7T! I know that the front axles are the same between 2.7T and 4.2 TIP cars, can't remember for the rears but I suspect that they are.

I have this theory on older automatic transmissions, if it makes it well past 150k on original fluid I sorta want to not touch it, like a coral reef that's been undisturbed for eons you might shock it even with just a filter and fluid exchange but it really depends on the individual transmission. I've seen non-VAG transmissions die months after a high mileage filter+fluid change with original fluid, and others which didn't care. Never ever let a shop do a transmission "flush", no OEM endorses that procedure and I've rebuilt many transmissions which were flushed right before failure, some with bizarre clutch delamination as root cause.

For timing... The car with the 45k mile engine does the normal 0 to ~1 second clatter on cold start, no problems there.
Another car with ~130k miles, had the cam adjusters replaced right before I bought it - I felt bad for the guy. He decided that the startup clatter was a problem, so he replaced both cam adjusters, and after the repair found that he had not changed the duration of the clatter (and also learned about Audi stating that the short clatter at cold start was considered normal). At that point I think he just hated the car; During the job he also cracked one of the timing covers and "repaired" it with JB weld - It started leaking a few months later. That's why I ended up getting that car, he just wanted it gone after the unnecessary cam adjuster repair.
My third 4.2 car has almost 200k miles on it and I have a massive stack of receipts all the way back to around 50k miles. I am positive that it has never had cam adjusters done and the startup clatter is no different than the other two cars. I really think keeping good VAG spec oil in these engines makes a difference, always good to consider driving style and change earlier for city/heavy duty driving and OK to extend for mostly freeway driving, etc.
All of my allroads except for one are from out west, I fly out, fix them on the spot and drive back. The west coast cars have never seen rust belt salt, I drive a C6 wagon all winter.

As far as the chain guides, I would like to get an endoscope down into my 200k mile car and see if I can peek at that lower guide. I have serviced plenty of B car 4.2 engines but have never had to do any timing work on any of my C5 Allroad 4.2's, I sort of wonder if that might be due to the original Allroad purchasers treating their cars better than the typical B6 driver? Or maybe the BAS just runs cooler in the slightly larger allroad engine compartment? I have no idea. Anyway I would have no hesitation to pull one of these engines for guides if I had to - Show me another V8 AWD wagon that compares to these monsters! Totally worth it... Driving these things has resulted in a continuing temptation to cannibalize my C6 4.2 sedan for a V8 conversion on one of my C6 3.2 avants :-)

[ShelbyM3]

Yes, ECT is coolant temp sensor, extremely common failure on the VAG cars in general and also a cheap sensor. I've seen more than a few people on the forums mention that they keep a spare ECT in the glove box!

I know on the belted 4.2's there is a plastic coolant tube between the oil cooler and block and that tube likes to break at higher mileage, people call it an "engine out" job but I think it's really just a "lift the engine a little/drop the cross member a little" job. Have not had to do that repair which makes me wonder if the BAS 4.2 has a different part, I have not compared parts diagrams.

Definitely check the oil filter housing seal but in general my experience has been *far* fewer oil leaks from the 4.2 than the 2.7T! I know that the front axles are the same between 2.7T and 4.2 TIP cars, can't remember for the rears but I suspect that they are.

I have this theory on older automatic transmissions, if it makes it well past 150k on original fluid I sorta want to not touch it, like a coral reef that's been undisturbed for eons you might shock it even with just a filter and fluid exchange but it really depends on the individual transmission. I've seen non-VAG transmissions die months after a high mileage filter+fluid change with original fluid, and others which didn't care. Never ever let a shop do a transmission "flush", no OEM endorses that procedure and I've rebuilt many transmissions which were flushed right before failure, some with bizarre clutch delamination as root cause.

For timing... The car with the 45k mile engine does the normal 0 to ~1 second clatter on cold start, no problems there.
Another car with ~130k miles, had the cam adjusters replaced right before I bought it - I felt bad for the guy. He decided that the startup clatter was a problem, so he replaced both cam adjusters, and after the repair found that he had not changed the duration of the clatter (and also learned about Audi stating that the short clatter at cold start was considered normal). At that point I think he just hated the car; During the job he also cracked one of the timing covers and "repaired" it with JB weld - It started leaking a few months later. That's why I ended up getting that car, he just wanted it gone after the unnecessary cam adjuster repair.
My third 4.2 car has almost 200k miles on it and I have a massive stack of receipts all the way back to around 50k miles. I am positive that it has never had cam adjusters done and the startup clatter is no different than the other two cars. I really think keeping good VAG spec oil in these engines makes a difference, always good to consider driving style and change earlier for city/heavy duty driving and OK to extend for mostly freeway driving, etc.
All of my allroads except for one are from out west, I fly out, fix them on the spot and drive back. The west coast cars have never seen rust belt salt, I drive a C6 wagon all winter.

As far as the chain guides, I would like to get an endoscope down into my 200k mile car and see if I can peek at that lower guide. I have serviced plenty of B car 4.2 engines but have never had to do any timing work on any of my C5 Allroad 4.2's, I sort of wonder if that might be due to the original Allroad purchasers treating their cars better than the typical B6 driver? Or maybe the BAS just runs cooler in the slightly larger allroad engine compartment? I have no idea. Anyway I would have no hesitation to pull one of these engines for guides if I had to - Show me another V8 AWD wagon that compares to these monsters! Totally worth it... Driving these things has resulted in a continuing temptation to cannibalize my C6 4.2 sedan for a V8 conversion on one of my C6 3.2 avants :-)

I like this guy! You must be a mechanic. My 2.7 was CAKED in oil. Kept it from rusting…

The chain drive BAS, BBK, and BHF have a different oil cooler than the belt drive 4.2, but it shares its own joys. It’s a front end off, alternator out, and 2 lovely o-rings. I’ve been watching a lot of videos today. Got both my boys down for a nap and that’s a rarity anymore.

I’d also love to find a way to peak at the lower guides. Any guides, really. When I do the valve covers I’ll look at the camshaft tensioner shoes and hope they can give me an idea of how things look deeper down.

I think I’ll take our advice on the transmission.

Any experience with engine and transmission mount replacement? I’m thinking it’ll be a good idea for my 4.2. 034 makes some higher density mounts I’d like to try.


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[Avantly]

Yeah... I've been working on cars for way too long... I was an engineer for a while but "corporate" has become a religion, I walked away from all that during the corona crap and I don't think I will go back. So it's back to working on cars, spending twice as much time making 1/4 the money, but at least I have chickens now, they are very high quality friends.
Maybe the 2.7T cars are "self protecting" from the rust belt? I have a 6MT Allroad that had the belt replaced around 130k miles right before I got it, and the guy did not replace the chain tensioner gaskets... It has been leaking since I bought it... It's at 200k miles now... I think there is a quart of oil on the underside of the car at any one time and I couldn't care less until it's time for the next belt LOL. For the guides, I wonder if it's possible to get an endoscope down there - I have never tried. For the mounts, you can replace them without pulling the engine but it's a bit of work with supporting the engine from above, I use an older OTC engine support bar placed across the engine bay but I have not had to do one on a 4.2 Allroad yet, I assume it is similar to the other 4.2 VAG cars.

[Audibot]

Yeah... I've been working on cars for way too long... I was an engineer for a while but "corporate" has become a religion, I walked away from all that during the corona crap and I don't think I will go back. So it's back to working on cars, spending twice as much time making 1/4 the money, but at least I have chickens now, they are very high quality friends.
Maybe the 2.7T cars are "self protecting" from the rust belt? I have a 6MT Allroad that had the belt replaced around 130k miles right before I got it, and the guy did not replace the chain tensioner gaskets... It has been leaking since I bought it... It's at 200k miles now... I think there is a quart of oil on the underside of the car at any one time and I couldn't care less until it's time for the next belt LOL. For the guides, I wonder if it's possible to get an endoscope down there - I have never tried. For the mounts, you can replace them without pulling the engine but it's a bit of work with supporting the engine from above, I use an older OTC engine support bar placed across the engine bay but I have not had to do one on a 4.2 Allroad yet, I assume it is similar to the other 4.2 VAG cars.

Also engineering, but speaking of corporate... I find it funny that last summer I was declined for a job because one (of three) interviewers thought I was "too corporate" (whatever that means haha)

I also inherited an oil-caked 2.7T; front end is off but I haven't made any progress on that in a while. Need to pull it outside and power wash it--scrubbing and degreaser have only gotten me so far. But the RS comes first

[Avantly]

I couldn't take corporate anymore, it doesn't mean what it used to. It has become a religion. Maybe you were too old school(real) corporate for them. Nowadays I just screw around in the country working on cars and tending chickens... They can keep their tech industry paychecks, I'd rather be free of the cult and eat rice and beans. I'm a chicken tender now. Chickens are the best.

I also have a 2.7T apart as well, it is a really strange situation. Car only has 95k miles on it, I took it apart to do the first timing belt job ever... The exhaust cams on both sides showed notable pitting on both heads. Not severe, but worse than I have seen on abused 200k mile 2.7T's. I found other people who observed the same thing in a few cars, it may have had to do with the car sitting unused for a few long periods in its life, not really sure. Some people just run them as-is but I just couldn't do it on this low mileage car. So, I had to go search for low mileage heads with matched sets of exhaust cams+lash adjusters because heaven forbid I put higher mileage parts in such a low mileage allroad (the thing is literally perfect... Nicest allroad I've ever found out west). Many people told me I'd be fine if I just put cams in and re-used the lash adjusters (which look perfect) but that goes against everything I have ever learned about valvetrains. Found the parts and now I have to get it back together, but I have to take that first step of unwrapping the engine (sealed up with fogging oil and lots of plastic wrap and shop towels) and I, uhh, keep finding excuses to work on literally every other project. The car has been apart since last fall... I really need that bay back in the garage... Need to get my lazy ass in gear and get it done, lmao. Anyway, the positive side of the whole ordeal is that I get to properly reseal EVERYTHING so that hopefully the car doesn't actually start leaking until closer to 200k miles. At 95k miles it shows only slight seeping from the chain tensioner gaskets. Now that I am obsessed with the 4.2 allroads I'll probably have to sell it, going to be sad to let such a gem go but I have way too many avants and it's time to start thinning the herd...

[ShelbyM3]

I raise children and save peoples’ lives. Chickens sound really nice…!

Rebuilt my air compressor today. A bit more tedious than I remember from my 2.7 rebuild. Disconnecting the wire looms from the bracket under the distribution block is a challenge. Thanks Andy!












Cleaned up


Ready for service



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[ShelbyM3]

Dona is proving to be a C5. I do something nice for her and BAM. Check engine light came on today, out and about. I’ve noticed she stinks when I get out in the garage and I’ve thought it was catalytic converter or O2 sensor related. I’ve also noticed a little chop at idle.

And maybe it’s time for engine and trans mounts I’m looking at 034 street mounts for engine and trans.


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[rah253]

Well congratulations on the second AR but man you are a glutton for punishment! good luck with that one, I checked on the 2.7 and you made some serious progress again!

[Audibot]

Well congratulations on the second AR but man you are a glutton for punishment! good luck with that one, I checked on the 2.7 and you made some serious progress again!

I'm on 2nd and 3rd right now. Hate to see what that makes me (probably stupid)

[ShelbyM3]

Well congratulations on the second AR but man you are a glutton for punishment! good luck with that one, I checked on the 2.7 and you made some serious progress again!

Thanks rah! I?m sure starting to feel like a glutton. It just felt like the right thing, though. I was just telling Bordom how I?d love a 4.2. I was actually set to buy a salvage title, due to body damage on a rear quarter, 2004 Allroad 2.7 with a factory 01E for cheap as a beater, but it just didn?t feel right. My wife agreed. Guy seemed sketch and ?desperate? and something just felt off. The next morning I found this 4.2, chatted up the second owner who sent me a 5 minute video, and canceled on the 2.7. I planned to travel the next weekend to my hometown for my mother?s retirement party and that?s where I found it. I bought this 45 minutes before the party and drove my grandma there. All lined up!

I won?t forget about the 2.7 (Dana) but she has to take a small backseat position for a bit while I knock out some small maintenance and scrape up more project car funds.

[ShelbyM3]

I'm on 2nd and 3rd right now. Hate to see what that makes me (probably stupid)

Hahaha, we?re alll a little special.

[ShelbyM3]

So I?ve been trying to diagnose this O2 sensor. Came on for 2 consecutive days and I cleared it, went off for 2 consecutive days, came back on and I left it, and then cleared itself in traffic last night. If it wasn?t for the smell in the garage after a drive I?d almost think it was bad fuel or something. I have filled up 3 tanks of 91, though. I do drive like a grandpa so I?m going to try to open her up and take a different route to work via the Freeway. Maybe an Italian tune up can shed some light or help?
Anyway, with that said, have any of you replaced an O2 sensor 2 on a 4.2? Just thinking about the zip ties on top of the trans and the fact that the harness routes to the passenger?s side fire wall, it seems like a real PITA! Any tips or tricks!?

[jbain2]

As with any Audi, pull to motor. Need to change a headlight bulb, pull the motor. Need to replace the headliner, pull the motor. Need to change the brakes, pull the motor. Need to change the wipers, pull the motor. 🤣


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[ShelbyM3]

As with any Audi, pull to motor. Need to change a headlight bulb, pull the motor. Need to replace the headliner, pull the motor. Need to change the brakes, pull the motor. Need to change the wipers, pull the motor.


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Inorite!? I?d honestly love to pull it and do a complete refresh like my 2.7 is getting, but I think I?d wind up divorced, hahaha. One day it will happen.
I think after my 2.7 is done, I?ll save up some funds and find a beater B6/B7 and swap in an 0A3 transmission during the refresh process. ?While you?re in there?!?

I did see a YouTube video from Naptown Tuner and he just spliced the new sensor in his C5 S6 stating he wanted to retain the original wire routing and how difficult it was to fish B2S2 out. He also mentioned some consider it a hack, but he prefers the tidiness of it and did a thorough wrap on the wiring under the car. So much of me says ?No!?, but it would make the job sooo much easier. Hmmm.

[ShelbyM3]

My driver?s seat cushion is?I have no idea, but it has a cool diamond quilted seat cover and I?m sure split underneath. I?m a seat heater 9 months out of the year type of person and I?ve had a couple instances where I get a very hot uncomfortable spot in my low back. Getting out of my car at work today I noticed something peculiar. The leather has burned, distorted, and turned brown. Great, a fire hazard in my seat. Comforting.

Anyone have experience with a short in the element? I almost think it?d be worth my time and energy to source an entire seat, given the mystery under the diamond quilted northern.

Side note: Etsy cup holder from Hungry. Now I can keep my coffee mug out of my lap and my wife can put her damn Stanleys or whatever in it. I got the larger version and it?s nicely deep. Nothing fancy, but it?s the little livables that make it mine.



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[Audibot]

That looks like an awkward way and engaging/disengaging the parking brake

One of my old Allroads had the heating elements real close to the surface on the outside driver bolster. Above a 3, it was too hot. I never solved it but I figure it needed the foam redone.

[ShelbyM3]

That looks like an awkward way and engaging/disengaging the parking brake

One of my old Allroads had the heating elements real close to the surface on the outside driver bolster. Above a 3, it was too hot. I never solved it but I figure it needed the foam redone.

It sure is, gotta use just the tip. But, it?s far less awkward than lapping a coffee mug for 30 minutes. I don?t use the parking brake that often with it being an automatic, either.

Ah, good to know. Maybe that?s the issue, the side bolster is worn and the element is too close to the surface.

[ShelbyM3]

Maintenance day:
I added the LIQUI Moly Gasoline System Cleaner and Valve Cleaner a week prior. Oddly, no CEL during this entire week 🪵

Arrived today, late the to party.

Airbox off. O-ring to what I presume is an SAI pipe was torn. Had to reuse it for now because what I had was too thick. Noted.

Edit:NLA and I’m not sourcing a hose. If anything I think I’ll entertain an SAI delete and follow FigureItAudi



Neglect



No broken tabs

Coils

¡Aye dios mio!



Cabin filter has its own ecosystem in it. “Idn’t that neat!?”


Didn’t get to the fuel filter because I got in trouble going to town, having fun, and then talking with a cool guy named Nathan I met in my driveway because my son was selling him a Black Forest Industries shift knob for his MKII 16V GTI. I also added some power steering fluid because I was barely on the dipstick. Unfortunately, it didn’t change the whine. Good day.


OK, bye


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[smil3y]

I have an 02 AR with the 2.7, 2nd owner, bought mine in 2019. I had to unplug the heaters in the driver seat because it burned a hole through the leather and melted a corresponding hole in one of my winter jackets. Maybe about the same place as yours?

There are some threads with people complaining about this and AOA refusing to fix. I took it to my local audi dealer, they charged me $120 inspection fee to tell me that the heater was burning a hole in my seat and it would cost $975 parts to replace the whole seat plus $350 labor to remove the fire hazard and install the new seat. I paid the $120, wrote a grumpy email to AOA expressing my displeasure with their dealer, asking for a better solution. They refunded me the inspection fee, asked me for purchase receipt for my jacket, and sent me $$ to buy a new one.

I just recently ordered new seat heater elements from Ali Express ($24 for a pair, one for the seat and one for the back) but I have not done anything further. I think I would probably take the seat out and drive it to an upholstery place rather than try to get the cover off myself.

Had to take the seat off the rails to get to the heater plugs as they are in the harness underneath the bottom pad. Was actually pretty easy to get the seat out, IIRC there are only like 3 or 4 screws and then it slides out of the channels towards the back of the car.

[ShelbyM3]

I have an 02 AR with the 2.7, 2nd owner, bought mine in 2019. I had to unplug the heaters in the driver seat because it burned a hole through the leather and melted a corresponding hole in one of my winter jackets. Maybe about the same place as yours?

There are some threads with people complaining about this and AOA refusing to fix. I took it to my local audi dealer, they charged me $120 inspection fee to tell me that the heater was burning a hole in my seat and it would cost $975 parts to replace the whole seat plus $350 labor to remove the fire hazard and install the new seat. I paid the $120, wrote a grumpy email to AOA expressing my displeasure with their dealer, asking for a better solution. They refunded me the inspection fee, asked me for purchase receipt for my jacket, and sent me $$ to buy a new one.

I just recently ordered new seat heater elements from Ali Express ($24 for a pair, one for the seat and one for the back) but I have not done anything further. I think I would probably take the seat out and drive it to an upholstery place rather than try to get the cover off myself.

Had to take the seat off the rails to get to the heater plugs as they are in the harness underneath the bottom pad. Was actually pretty easy to get the seat out, IIRC there are only like 3 or 4 screws and then it slides out of the channels towards the back of the car.

No way! That’s crazy, on all accounts! I’d be pissed, too. That’s disappointing, but not surprising of VAG, at this point.


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