My second AR

[ShelbyM3]

Engine off

10 seconds after cold start

60 seconds in

105 seconds in

120 seconds in and idle has fallen. System seems to be working OK, but like before B2 is sluggish and B1 is at 8 degrees on the intake cam.


I also quickly looked at measuring blocks 002 and 032 to check my MAF and O2 sensors. Bank 1 looks like it’s running a little lean so I think I should smoke test for vacuum leaks and then potentially pull my injectors and give them an Ultrasonic cleaning out and flush with some brake clean. I’d like to do a log while driving and see how they change under load and check some measuring blocks I’ve read about in the B6/B7 threads.



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[ShelbyM3]

Check engine light back on today and I brought my laptop with me to work. Ran a quick check of measuring blocks 002, 032, and 093 in the parking lot waiting for lunch.

Bank 2 is clearly experiencing a vacuum leak. I’m starting to believe that while I’m now dailying the 4.2, that when at idle in traffic I start to notice the CEL. On my way home from work where I go from highway to a signal that I wait through 3 rotations on, idling at my lunch spot in town while I wait for food, etc. I think I’ve read in B6/B7 S4 threads where guys talk about the intake manifold bolts becoming loose. I think I’ll give them a quick check tonight after the kids are down, if it’s not too difficult to knock out. I imagine they’re 10Nm like most. I’m starting to believe my fueling is ok and that this really may be an air metering issue more than an oxygen sensor issue. While I drove it 3.5 hours over the mountain pass under load mostly it was doing just fine, it’s when I introduce idling I begin to see the CEL.

I also ran a quick log that I exported to Excel on my way to lunch to see some live data.

MB 002


MB 032 & 093

Under load bank 1 leans out a little more leading me to believe even more it’s an air issue. I suspect that when I got the B2 S1 code it was because I drove with the CEL on long enough that eventually it got angry enough to trigger.
I may also clean my MAF sensor, just to rule that out.

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[jbain2]

You do get a significant amount of vacuum under mountain driving. Downhill in particular.


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[ShelbyM3]

You do get a significant amount of vacuum under mountain driving. Downhill in particular.


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Well piss! There goes that theory, haha.


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[ShelbyM3]

In a fun turn of events, every single intake manifold bolt was loose! Not just needing snugged, but loose. Like wobbling bolts as I picked the grime out of the hex heads. Wow! That has GOT to make a difference. I’ll see how she goes in the morning, it’s late.


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[jbain2]

Well piss! There goes that theory, haha.


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Any downhill off throttle or engine braking generates a bunch of vacuum. I’ve actually heard of people specifically doing canyon runs who re-ringed pistons just to help seat the pistons due to the amount of vacuum that occurs during that driving scenario.


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[ShelbyM3]

Any downhill off throttle or engine braking generates a bunch of vacuum. I’ve actually heard of people specifically doing canyon runs who re-ringed pistons just to help seat the pistons due to the amount of vacuum that occurs during that driving scenario.


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It makes total sense when you mentioned it. High speed and rpm under no load, the engine will be sucking in air because the TB butterfly is closed creating quite a vacuum as it needs a good amount of air. Versus say full throttle at lower RPM would be almost no vacuum as manifold pressure would basically equal atmospheric pressure with the butterfly open.


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[ShelbyM3]

Found a cool document outlining generic measuring blocks in VCDS from Ross-Tech Wiki. It outlines what measuring blocks 91,92, and 93 measure and in what units.

Did some actual pulls and I’ll spare you all the pages.
Of note, I found MB 36 which showed B1S2 B2S2 voltage and their status of “OK” or “Not OK”. Clearly my B2S2 reading at zero, then seeing a 100th of a voltage, then zero, etc. is not good. I think there’s an issue with the heating function. This was my 3rd data log in a row and I had no CEL when I started. On the MB 32 logs my O2 was reading and correcting, but as engine temps climbed correction factors began to fall toward zero. I’d done two redline-ish pulls in 3rd to check on timing correlation, MAF, Long Term Fuel Trims, and Lambda sensors. Here is MB 36 highlighted in Red and Green. This was just cruising in traffic.





Oddly enough, when I woke up the CEL was off and it didn’t return all day. Regardless, I’m happy I torqued the intake, I’ve got some good data on my timing correlations, and I have confirmed my B2S2 is in fact failing intermittently and that’s why I’m getting the “Slow to Respond” CEL. At least that’s what I’m telling myself


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[ShelbyM3]

I installed a new radio into Dona. I like that it kinda resembles the OE Navigation units.



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[ShelbyM3]

Never really been a big exteriors guys, mostly OEM+ kind of vibes. I’ve never seen a carbon look one, mine was faded and delaminating(?), and I was feeling sad about selling my B8 S4, OK!?
I have to take the rear hatch door panel off to fix the rear wiper jet so I figured while I was in there…since it’s gonna be a total bitch and all…this could be cool or totally lame. We’ll see.







Can’t remember the last time I got packing peanuts in a box. What joy…!



I should polish it.

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[ShelbyM3]

Welp, I went for it. My biggest fear was very easy. Interior pry tools made ALL the difference. The right tool…! Huh! Rear window shade out. It’s held in by like plastic tie-strap type material. Anywho…


Broken…

Broken…

Ominous…broken…

Broken…

Broken…

Broken…



Broken…

Broken…The 90 connector to the washer jet itself in the hatch is cut with a razor blade. I eventually freed it. It was blaringly clear to me at this point that somebody has been in here before me. Multiple times.
I put some super glue around it to see if it’ll hold. I’ll research tonight and see if it’s replaceable. Probably not. Fingers crossed


Broke off the 90 fitting…

I rigged up a tester. Thought things were good until I lowered the hatch some to start doing something…

This came pouring out of the hatch…

Out of this hole.

Sad panda. I don’t want to look further. Ugh! It’s in the hatch itself or maybe the hinge. Come on hinge! Anyway, I’m leaving it for now and onto achievements. Kinda…C5…
Factory passenger’s fog

Euro passenger’s fog

Factory driver’s side fog

Euro driver’s side fog area…there’s clearly a cutout there, but I bet it’d be a lot of work. One day in the future when I’m bored.









Kinda goofy looking, but at the same time it can still be helpful. And a reason to be pulled over, ha!


I need a new hatch door panel. It’s terrible and broken in literally all of the mounts, but 2. Woof. Time to hunt. I think I’ll just leave it off for the time being while I continue to troubleshoot the washer jet feed line.


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[Audibot]

Looks great dude! Yeah those straps are annoying--my 05 has broken trim back there and so it flops around every time I close the hatch unless the shade is up. Gotta love the power sunshade of my RS and C7.

I need me one of those carbon fiber look tubs on the RS as well. Quite jelly.

[ShelbyM3]

Looks great dude! Yeah those straps are annoying--my 05 has broken trim back there and so it flops around every time I close the hatch unless the shade is up. Gotta love the power sunshade of my RS and C7.

I need me one of those carbon fiber look tubs on the RS as well. Quite jelly.

Thanks! I agree. It’s a subtle change that most won’t notice and that’s why I like it. I came across it on eBay and being it’s a factory part I jumped on it. Even the gloss black euro ones are still cool.

Those straps ARE super annoying. They kept getting wrapped up in my drill trying to take the screws out. This panel is in really good shape cosmetically, I think it was just ripped off the first time and glued back on and together the second time.


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[ShelbyM3]

Dona Dona Dona! Dug into the washer jet leak and found some shotty repairs. Much like my Dana, why? You can’t just slip a corrugated hose into a smooth rubber hose and call it a day! WTF!? I cannot stand this type of discovery. Makes me sad and angry. It’s not that hard to do a job and do it well.

Anyway, off my soapbox, for today. What I found. I took the hatch window trim off and fished the line out expecting it to be broken. No breaks. I found it slipped into a rubber hose. Something just felt off. I spent a while looking online without much confirmation. I could see Audi doing something like that, but I don’t know for certain. So I decided to take the hatch hinge cover off and inspect more.



Cover off and the rubber grommet was zip tied to the rubber hose. Hmmm. I tried to pull it out of the headliner to see if I could see a connection in the headliner and the whole thing came out! I knew it!


The whole thing removed on the bench

They just slid this over the two lines as a coupler and nothing to secure it. Butted it up and sent it. It’s been leaking for a while now.


Casualties from the hatch window trim…again, someone was in here before and was really rough. All of this was in the channel under the trim just shaking around and driving me crazy!

I’ve got some replacement line and connectors on the way. Should be easy enough to repair. I even found the 90 degree fitting for the washer jet connection.


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[ShelbyM3]

Thanks to a nice guy named Ryan I have a dipstick with a handle again!


It is a different part number than the B6/B7 S4

And my supplies to fix the washer line came in. It can wait, I’m sick and tired. Got some connectors and tubing cheap off Amazon and then I was thinking I’d slip some heat shrink over it to be safe. Should work well and if all else fails, I’ll replace the entire line with the silicone line that I got.



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[ShelbyM3]

These little connectors off Amazon work amazingly. Snug fit and the ribs of the line pop over the nipple of these very well. Used a little lube and everything went together amazingly.


Heat shrink over the connections

I added a little extra silicone line so it would slip over my janky 90 degree repair and give me a little slack since I cut some line off.




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[Audibot]

Ribbed for her pleasure

[ShelbyM3]

“I called it a nipple”

-Ratchets and Wrenches


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[ShelbyM3]

Peculiar…I’m pretty sure it’s coming out of my exhaust pipe on startup. More confirmation the downpipes need to come out.



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[jbain2]

Are you having any O2 sensor codes or running rich? Have you logged or looked at your fuel trims?


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[ShelbyM3]

Are you having any O2 sensor codes or running rich? Have you logged or looked at your fuel trims?


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Yes. B2S2. Intermittent.
Yes. Long term fuel trims. I posted them above, but I don’t really have a reference to tell if they’re good or not. Bank 1 lambda wants to be at 1.1 and Bank 2 was at 0.6. Bank 2 is rich, but I don’t think an intermittent B2S2 would cause that. Maybe if it were S1, but S2 as far as I understand it S2 isn’t really used for AFR, but more catalyst efficiency.

Of note-today when I pulled into the garage the sun was shining and I had quite the plum of smoke arising from the driver’s side hood and wheel well. I clearly have some oil leaks and part of me is wondering if maybe it’s saturated the exhaust and potentially is seeipng into the exhaust or O2 plugs. I don’t think that’s very plausible, but I’m trying to fully understand what is happening before I tear into things or start throwing parts at it.


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[jbain2]

Sorry. Missed the logs. Viewing from my phone and I’m old. I agree that it would be S1 that controls your fuel trims. Though I do think the ECU takes the info from S2 into consideration. Maybe your cats are calling it quits and puking. Since it’s the V8, you can’t blame the turbos…


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[ShelbyM3]

Sorry. Missed the logs. Viewing from my phone and I’m old. I agree that it would be S1 that controls your fuel trims. Though I do think the ECU takes the info from S2 into consideration. Maybe your cats are calling it quits and puking. Since it’s the V8, you can’t blame the turbos…


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You’re good, man. Same, old and phone. It’s not always worth zooming in in the “gallery” to view everything. My laptop is just for VCDS and I don’t think it can handle anything more, really. My wife has a Mac Book and I’ve never used it.

I’ve had my mind set on cats since week 1 with her, but I’d really love to know if Bank 2 running rich is causing the cat clog or if the cat clog is making Bank 2 run rich.


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[ShelbyM3]

I had a thought while responding to someone in the B6/B7 S4 forum: what if my oil filter housing oil leak is seeping past the intake manifold, which I’m almost certain isn’t sealing, and it’s contaminating Bank 2 with oil which in turn is throwing the O2 sensors for a spin? It’d explain the gunk coming out only my driver’s tail pipe and the plum of smoke I get only from the driver’s tail pipe on cold start.

I need to charge my boroscope and pull the plugs on Bank 2. I bet the cylinders won’t have much carbon, especially the rear-most, and they’ll be tarnished like a valve train that hasn’t had proper oil changes.

Thinking out loud!


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[Jerryallroad]

Hey Guys,
It seems that I may have found some folks here that know a bit about Allroads. I have a 2005 Allroad with < 130,000 miles. The body is in perfect condition. The engine is in great shape and I have kept up the maintenance. I am the original owner and just love the car. I am not a mechanic. I now live in another country and am thinking of getting rid of the car......it will be painful to let it go.
I am just looking for an opinion. The car is in Southern California. Do you think this is a good forum (Audizine) to find an interested Audi enthusiast? The car runs fine but a mechanically minded owner is best. Price is not the primary consideration. I have not posted in the classified section.

Any suggestions / comments are appreciated.

Thanks so much

[Bordom]

These little connectors off Amazon work amazingly. Snug fit and the ribs of the line pop over the nipple of these very well. Used a little lube and everything went together amazingly.


Heat shrink over the connections

I added a little extra silicone line so it would slip over my janky 90 degree repair and give me a little slack since I cut some line off.




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This is good information for when I add back the rear washer. Mine was deleted when I bought it.

Excellent work so far!

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[ShelbyM3]

This is good information for when I add back the rear washer. Mine was deleted when I bought it.

Excellent work so far!

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Thanks!

https://a.co/d/02GDOGLb
https://a.co/d/0iSCG66X


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[ShelbyM3]

Hey Guys,
It seems that I may have found some folks here that know a bit about Allroads. I have a 2005 Allroad with < 130,000 miles. The body is in perfect condition. The engine is in great shape and I have kept up the maintenance. I am the original owner and just love the car. I am not a mechanic. I now live in another country and am thinking of getting rid of the car......it will be painful to let it go.
I am just looking for an opinion. The car is in Southern California. Do you think this is a good forum (Audizine) to find an interested Audi enthusiast? The car runs fine but a mechanically minded owner is best. Price is not the primary consideration. I have not posted in the classified section.

Any suggestions / comments are appreciated.

Thanks so much

No. Here’s why:
-I just don’t think you’ll get enough traffic for these unique cars
- I have been seeing a lot of young people in their early twenties interested in Allroads and they don’t use forums like we used to.
-A lot of people only come here when they have problems. There’s only a handful of us plugging away and/or glutinous enough to own multiples of these things.
-Facebook Marketplace has taken over as the predominant place to sell things. I, reluctantly, after over a decade turned mine back on just for Marketplace. I then discovered all the groups and now I frequent it daily. It’s pathetic, haha

I think Facebook Marketplace is the place to go. You can capture such a large audience that the few people looking for an Allroad may actually find yours. It couldn’t hurt to post it here, but I wouldn’t expect much. With all that said, the price and timing system being replaced already can change this conversation very quickly. It looks really clean from the photos you posted!


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[ShelbyM3]

Repaired two dome lights, replaced all the interior lights; many of which weren’t working;, and upgraded to LED.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27586795788...mis&media=COPY


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[Audibot]

The only light I haven't gotten working after swapping to LED so far has been the footwell. For whatever reason it's not working.

[ShelbyM3]

I got my driver’s foot well working, but the passenger would not. I fished my hand up there and felt wires flipping around. I wonder if it’s been MacGyvered before…or the contacts have corroded and need cleaning. My hatch dome light is intermittently fixed, as it’s got bad contacts and will turn on and off if I press on it toward the roof. I thought I had it after I cleaned the little circuit board, but the corrosion is internal.


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[Audibot]

Mine was def MacGyver'd due to the 6-speed swap. Which brings up an interesting point. The clutch position switch (used for cruise control vs the clutch interlock for the starter) appears to be always show pressed. I've pulled the switch and tested it--it's fine. And VCDS shows the same behavior without the clutch. So yeah, that's why my cruise control doesn't work.

I haven't had time to dig into it, though I have a couple threads bookmarked on how it's supposed to be wired (no idea if it's truly wired that way). Need a few days of not 95+ degree weather.

[ShelbyM3]

I took the boys out to the Calapooia for the day to meet up with some family. Decided to scan for codes and clear any before my drive to see how she went. Had a new code for the Coolant Fan Control, the C5 life.



Drove almost 2 hours with no CEL and averaging 19m/gl. Hmm.
On leaving the CEL came on at a stop sign. I did let her idle for a bit to turn on the A/C and load everything we brought up. Bank 2 is just unhappy. Both sensors back on again.

On the freeway I went to Level I and then my air suspension malfunction light came on while cruising at 75mph. Quick scan when we got home. More C5 fun. I think it’s because my rear Passenger’s bag leaks and going to Level I it went too low and the system got upset. It cleared itself after 10 minutes of driving and I put her back into Level II.

Also surprised by this in the driveway when I got home…kids!



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[ShelbyM3]

Yesterday was not my day. Had to bust Dona out to save the day and my head unit wouldn’t turn on. Sigh. I was pretty stoked on this thing initially, but I’m getting pretty fed up with it. Avoid DVDGPSNAV branded head units. Their customer service is good and they try their best to help, but it’s just a poorly made unit.




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[Audibot]

Oof. It's one thing after another... I say take a day for yourself and get back to it fresh.

[ShelbyM3]

Got the stereo working again. I pulled it out, disconnected power and checked the fuse, and then it turned on when I plugged it back in. Odd.


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[Avantly]

Got the stereo working again. I pulled it out, disconnected power and checked the fuse, and then it turned on when I plugged it back in. Odd.


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I have seen a lot of aftermarket stereos do that exact same thing, including "nicer" ones like pioneer NEX series... I've read that it can possibly be related to software hanging, which is possibly caused by many of these stereos putting the system software on low quality SD cards which don't do well in the automotive environment. Possibly also related to the SD card slot itself. There are writeups on people disassembling their NEX series to remove and clone the SD card to a higher quality one. I have no personal experience with such a repair, though...

[ShelbyM3]

It’s been raining almost daily here in the great PNW and I’ve been daily driving Dona here. She’s in the driveway as Dana and Dena are still down for the count.
Today on my lunch I had a hunch to check my passenger’s floor board and it was wet. Ugh! I’ve never had to deal with water ingress, I just know about its dangers. Any pointers or tips are much appreciated, as far as diagnosing and solutions. I’d suspect it’s the cabin air filter box and it’s probably coming from the windshield cowling being away from the windshield. Looks like I’m going to be rearranging my garage to get all 3 of the gals in the garage to fix this.


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[Bordom]

The whole job can be done in the driveway. You don't have to disassemble much either.

Have a look here on my thread: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...php?p=14752626

The "more correct" seal used is in a post from 22 May 2022. It's below the resign AR post.

Unfortunately, I didn't document what size seal used, but I'm confident it was 1/4 - 3/8" thick, and about 3/8-1/2" wide. Any more than that and it places unnecessary stress on the entire cabin filter piece.

All nuts there are going to be 10mm. Shouldn't take you long to be in and out, including vacuuming up anything in there.

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[Audibot]

I just sealed the perimeter with butyl rope and called it a day. No water infiltration