Part 2 update. 24' RS3 starts, fixed but wasn't a TSB.

[S3DUDE]

Folks I just got my car back from the dealer. My car wasn't starting in two different ocassions, it gave me lots of malfunctions. I was able to set an appointment and took it to the dealer today. It turns out that it was not a TSB issue.

The problem were 2 separate issues:

1) Battery voltage drop
2) State of battery was at 74%

Lets break it down. The voltage drop caused the car to not start at all and it triggered all the safety systems. I was able to just put a battery charger at 12 Amps for 10 seconds to satisfy the voltage drop until I read 12.70 volts on my DMM. That is when I told my son to go ahead and crank the engine to start it(it started). The safety lights remained on and I will explain why.

Apparently even though I satisfied the voltage and I was able to start the car the state of charge was at 74%. I found that out trough the dealer. The dealer could not even run a full diagnosis until the state of charge was at least at 80%.

The dealer performed a full diagnosis and although I gave them reference to the latest TSB 2069999/4 my car did not generate a fault code needed for the TSB (the fault code needed for the TSB is DTC B114815), however, the dealer was able to address the safety lights triggered by the battery voltage drop and the battery state of charge.

What have I learned from this and what I would like to warn you about? well, apparently this is the summary:

1) A voltage drop will cause the car to not start due to sensitive voltage threshold on the electronics
2) A jump start will satisfy that voltage and perhaps will allow you to start the car but will not turn off the safety lights
3) Your battery will need to be at 80% and above state of charge at all the times no matter what and can't run full diagnosis until is at least at 80% otherwise you will generate more codes
4) The TSB (Technical service bulletin) was not applicable due to not generating a crucial fault code needed

There you have it folks. Why my brand new car went below 80% charge despite using it 5 days a week 2 hours /day plus weekends? I don't know but those of you living in the north and East coast where it gets cold you might want to invest on a trickle charger. Last, I was advised to unplug my radar detector when I am not using the car as a precautionary step.

I know that this is a common occurrence across the automotive industry (battery weak/low) but if I can save you the time from having to go to the dealer or have your car down for a day or at least be informed ahead of your service scheduling I think is worth writing this post. Best of luck and now we know.

[S3DUDE]

Oh by the way. Let me dig more now that I am writing this post because my wife has complained 2 or 3 times of safety lights on her dash(she has a 2023 RS3) and that happened to her while driving. She took her car to service so I am going to dig into her records because although her car hasn't had a problem starting she also had safety lights and warnings on the dash. I will definitely share with you as I think it might be also related.

[XMetal]

It's absurd to require at least 80% state of charge to be maintained on a battery. This usually means that you'll need to see at least 12.6V on the battery at any given time to be maintained. Batteries, even AGMs, usually won't be able to do this for long. If this is in fact the case, then you'll be looking at replacing the battery every year or two and looking at a lot of no-start situation.

[S3DUDE]

It's absurd to require at least 80% state of charge to be maintained on a battery. This usually means that you'll need to see at least 12.6V on the battery at any given time to be maintained. Batteries, even AGMs, usually won't be able to do this for long. If this is in fact the case, then you'll be looking at replacing the battery every year or two and looking at a lot of no-start situation.

What is even more absurd is how a car that is driven literally 2 hours a day(I make two 30 minute drives each way and back twice a day) the battery was at 74-76%.

[o1turbo30v]

Sorry to hear this, you are not alone:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ht=Battery+hog

[RMode]

What is even more absurd is how a car that is driven literally 2 hours a day(I make two 30 minute drives each way and back twice a day) the battery was at 74-76%.

It’s not really absurd. It’s a faulty battery from the get go. Happens all the time.

Part of a pdi at a dealer is a battery test. Audi further requires this to be done monthly and reported on a vin by vin basis in order for the dealer to claim a battery warranty. The dealer can choose to skip this, as it’s quite labor intensive especially if there are lots of cars in inventory or at an aux location, but then they eat the replacement cost.

In general new cars are hyper sensitive to net voltage and charge rate in a way older gen cars never were. True for a variety of reasons but most is the sheer level of modules on board and the network they encompass.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[S3DUDE]

^^^ Thanks guys. I found my wife's RS3 records(see attachment). Although it shares similar anomalies (safety messages, lights ,visual/acoustic warnings) apparently her car had a different outcome. By the way, this was just done barely a couple of months ago on a 10K inspection.

Here are some differences:

1) Her car always started (mine didn't)
2) Her messages appeared while driving(several times) while my messages appeared when I attempted to start the car


Maybe I can say that my problems were caused directly to the battery while her car would have been more of a "glitch". What we had in common was some of the safety and driving adaptive systems malfunctions narratives. I will share pictures if my wife took them on her phone.

[tegxsi]

I'm fairly certain 8V has no issues starting below a bit below 12V.

I think there needs to be a software fix for the 8Y. If voltage drops below 12.2V you become stranded?

[RMode]

I'm fairly certain 8V has no issues starting below a bit below 12V.

I think there needs to be a software fix for the 8Y. If voltage drops below 12.2V you become stranded?

It does. You may get half a crank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tegxsi]

It does. You may get half a crank.

Interesting... My OE battery is now +5 years old and I maybe drive the car 1-2 times a month these days. I've even listen to music for extended period while parked and it starts up every time.
It shouldn't all be about the voltage but the cranking amps the battery can provide. Almost sounds like a grounding issue if cars have issues starting.

[grandpab]

Guess I'll follow this for a bit and see what happens over time. Might end up being a good idea to keep one of those rechargeable jumpers in the car.

[AdamSheikh]

Guess I'll follow this for a bit and see what happens over time. Might end up being a good idea to keep one of those rechargeable jumpers in the car.

Yep. Only have 150 miles on mine so far, but I'll be grabbing my jump pack out of the GTI and keeping in the RS just in case lol. Highly recommend Noco jump packs and chargers/maintainers btw. Very high quality and work super well.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GBX45-Ul...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

[Rod Paine]

Our 2019 RS 3 is still on the same battery that came with it and is now at 48,574
total miles, of which 34,832 miles have been fast country back road runs 3 days
a week as weather permits, 10am to 2pm only when little or no other vehicles
are on the back road we run. Our frequent use is certainly keeping the battery
happy. If we don't drive the Audi for a while, I put a charger on the battery.

Our free standing garage is also heavily insulated and heated to 60°F, as my office
is above the garage and our temps here in VA are now down to 25°F as winter
moves in. We're 55 miles west of Washington D.C. in northern Virginia.

[S3DUDE]

Guess I'll follow this for a bit and see what happens over time. Might end up being a good idea to keep one of those rechargeable jumpers in the car.

Are you talking about the lithium portable boxes that jumps start the car? as long as they can provide charging I don't see why not. In my case I had a weak voltage and a weak charge so hypothetically a jump box or jump cable would have only allowed me to crank/start the car.

[grandpab]

Are you talking about the lithium portable boxes that jumps start the car? as long as they can provide charging I don't see why not. In my case I had a weak voltage and a weak charge so hypothetically a jump box or jump cable would have only allowed me to crank/start the car.

Yup, just like Adam linked. Those Nocos work pretty well.

[S3DUDE]

Yep. Only have 150 miles on mine so far, but I'll be grabbing my jump pack out of the GTI and keeping in the RS just in case lol. Highly recommend Noco jump packs and chargers/maintainers btw. Very high quality and work super well.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GBX45-Ul...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I use NOCO for my motorcycles and it has been a life saver. I went trough several batteries in the past just from not using the motorcycles enough but I purchased a NOCO Genius 1 (1 AMP charger/reconditioner) and it has maintained the battery in tip-top condition. On another bike I use a converted battery tender from a small toddler/kid electric car that puts out .75Amps which again, it is plenty for the motorcycle battery.

Now I am thinking about getting the NOCO Genius 2 or 5 and buying the upgrade battery terminal plug connector so that I can charge externally.

[S3DUDE]

Yup, just like Adam linked. Those Nocos work pretty well.

I concur. I have Nico Genius one and it works great but the one that I have is just a compact charger and not a jumper/charger. I will look into it(jumper/charger) but regardless I wholeheartedly recommend NOCO products, I read plenty on it and they are wicked, smart and simple.

[S3DUDE]

Interesting... My OE battery is now +5 years old and I maybe drive the car 1-2 times a month these days. I've even listen to music for extended period while parked and it starts up every time.
It shouldn't all be about the voltage but the cranking amps the battery can provide. Almost sounds like a grounding issue if cars have issues starting.

I wrote something yesterday and before I posted it I deleted it because I thought that someone was going to challenge my claims but now that I read your comment I want to share what I meant to say yesterday and never did. On my 2018 RS3 which was built in May of 2018 I never had a single hiccup with the battery for almost 5 years. Even in 2020 during out longest and hottest summer in Arizona history I decided to not drive the car for a few months because I was pissed off from the STM FMIC performance and I parked the RS3 in the garage and didn't drive it for 2-3 months. I never had a battery issue on that car that I remember.

[Chasriff]

Our Alfa has the same type of issues when voltage runs low, and I assume most modern cars with all theses electronic systems do as well. I always have battery tenders around, and if the car doesn't get used for a couple days or more, it goes on a tender. When I got the RS3, I got it a tender, and I've used it a few times in the year since I've had it. Cheap insurance, easy to do.

[o1turbo30v]

Are they replacing your battery under warranty?

[Fixeroh]

Wow, this is some really great info to absorb. Thanks all for sharing. Zero battery issues on my 2018 8V. I'm only at 26K miles however. Know electronics can be quite sensitive at times. And that a bad battery can have a massive effect on the entire system. Seems I will be packing my Nico portable jumper when I get my 8Y mid 2024. With all the damn EVs on the road, one would think that OEMs have batteries down to a fine science by now. Different batteries obviously but the manufacturing process of the 12v should be near flawless. Audi using batteries from Iran instead of Germany?

[S3DUDE]

Are they replacing your battery under warranty?

No as of right now. The battery took some charge despite the short visit to the dealer (I was there about 1 hour), what I mean with that is that they actually charged it while the car was being diagnosed. They told me that they are documenting the issue in case it happens again but no mention of why the battery was that load on charge which is a true surprise to me since I drive the car literally 2 hours a day in combined city/hwy traffic.

I will most likely buy a NOCO Genius dual charging port battery charger/reconditioner with the extra accessory to be able to have a quick disconnect on the front grill or on the engine bay. I think this car comes with the jump start ports in the engine bay so I will likely use them.

[S3DUDE]

Wow, this is some really great info to absorb. Thanks all for sharing. Zero battery issues on my 2018 8V. I'm only at 26K miles however. Know electronics can be quite sensitive at times. And that a bad battery can have a massive effect on the entire system. Seems I will be packing my Nico portable jumper when I get my 8Y mid 2024. With all the damn EVs on the road, one would think that OEMs have batteries down to a fine science by now. Different batteries obviously but the manufacturing process of the 12v should be near flawless. Audi using batteries from Iran instead of Germany?

Thanks.. I appreciate it. These are the topics that can save you a headache and a trip to the dealer. I will be monitoring my voltage now here and there but not much that I can do to see the charge state(percentage) unless perhaps I log into VCDS through the OBD. In all honesty, now I live even further away from the closest(only Audi dealer in town) and it is in my best interest to invest on a battery tender. Right now I have a semi-professional battery charger from Sears but in the short-mid and long term I think that a trickle charger is the way to go.

The car did not start on a Friday afternoon after I drove it that same morning just fine. I had to switch cars to go and pick my son and when I came back I connected the battery charger 10 seconds and it started right up. I thought everything was OK but I didn't drove the car on Saturday and on Sunday morning I wanted to just back it up from the garage and boom..it happened again so I don't trust the car, I trust myself only. I will positively buy a trickle charger now that I know the electronics is so sensitive and you know it very well because you are an Air Force retired former electronic technician.

[XMetal]

No as of right now. The battery took some charge despite the short visit to the dealer (I was there about 1 hour), what I mean with that is that they actually charged it while the car was being diagnosed. They told me that they are documenting the issue in case it happens again but no mention of why the battery was that load on charge which is a true surprise to me since I drive the car literally 2 hours a day in combined city/hwy traffic.

I will most likely buy a NOCO Genius dual charging port battery charger/reconditioner with the extra accessory to be able to have a quick disconnect on the front grill or on the engine bay. I think this car comes with the jump start ports in the engine bay so I will likely use them.

On both of my BMWs where the batteries are in the trunk and I use the terminals under the hood to charge the battery, the NOCO (I have a NOCO Genius10) doesn't seem to work quite right. It thinks the car's battery is fully charged in about 10 minutes and goes right into trickle charge mode forever (about 2 days) before being fully charged. However, on my S3 when hooked directly onto the battery terminals, it works much better where it stays in the charge mode much longer and less on trickle charge mode and finish charging the battery faster (Charge + Trickle mode time combined). I have a 15yrs+ CTEK that works much better on both of my BMWs where the batteries lives in the trunk and I use the underhood terminals to charge them. So, for your RS3, unless you will connect directly to the battery when charging, I would recommend a CTEK instead of a NOCO from my experience. The NOCO Genius10 is nice because I can use it for ECU/TCU updates/changes, but I don't recommend it unless you connect it directly to the battery's terminals.

I also have a NOCO boost pack, but luckily haven't had a chance that I need to try it yet.

[DAP]

My '24 has been to the dealership twice so far with the same (no start) issue and I drive it daily. I don't have anything external plugged in (radar detector, etc.).

Both times that it happened, I waited 5-10 minutes and then it started and ran normally, minus the persistent airbag warning light.

The most recent time after having the car for 2 weeks and consulting with Audi, the dealer charged up the battery "because it was low". I pressed them on why a 2 month old car would have a low battery but they didn't have an answer. They also did replace an overhead light (???) due to the airbag fault (which I think was caused by the low battery, but whatever).

If/when it happens again, I'll make sure they are aware it is not isolated to my car and see if they will replace the battery.

[rbackhouse]

My '24 has been to the dealership twice so far with the same (no start) issue and I drive it daily. I don't have anything external plugged in (radar detector, etc.).

Both times that it happened, I waited 5-10 minutes and then it started and ran normally, minus the persistent airbag warning light.

The most recent time after having the car for 2 weeks and consulting with Audi, the dealer charged up the battery "because it was low". I pressed them on why a 2 month old car would have a low battery but they didn't have an answer. They also did replace an overhead light (???) due to the airbag fault (which I think was caused by the low battery, but whatever).

If/when it happens again, I'll make sure they are aware it is not isolated to my car and see if they will replace the battery.

I would also ask them to check if any codes found match TSB # 2069999/4 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...44603-0001.pdf

My car also failed to start initially but started after around 15 minutes.

Since having this TSB software update my car has had no repeat problems.

[S3DUDE]

I would also ask them to check if any codes found match TSB # 2069999/4 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...44603-0001.pdf

My car also failed to start initially but started after around 15 minutes.

Since having this TSB software update my car has had no repeat problems.

What platform RS3 do you have? 8V or 8Y? I went to the dealer and mentioned the TSB 2069999/4 and they told me that my car was not a good candidate for it because it was missing a fault code that relates to the TSB. Besides not starting and starting after 15 minutes what other symptoms was your car having? or not at all?

So you went to the dealer and just asked for that TSB?

[rbackhouse]

What platform RS3 do you have? 8V or 8Y? I went to the dealer and mentioned the TSB 2069999/4 and they told me that my car was not a good candidate for it because it was missing a fault code that relates to the TSB. Besides not starting and starting after 15 minutes what other symptoms was your car having? or not at all?

So you went to the dealer and just asked for that TSB?

Its an 8Y, 2024. I didn't ask for the the TSB. It had the symptoms described by it. I only knew about the TSB after picking it up. I got the # from the paperwork and looked it up from that.

The symptoms were "Engine start system: fault" initially, that went away once the car would start but a "Safety System Malfunction" error would not go away.

I guess I had "DTC B114815" stored as the TSB says that

"Workshop findings:
The following DTC is stored statically or intermittently in the onboard supply control, J519 (address word 0009):
• DTC B114815: Terminal 15 open circuit/short circuit to B+"

[DAP]

I would also ask them to check if any codes found match TSB # 2069999/4 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...44603-0001.pdf

My car also failed to start initially but started after around 15 minutes.

Since having this TSB software update my car has had no repeat problems.

Good info, thanks! I'll print out that TSB and take it in next time it happens.

I need to upgrade my VCDS cable (or switch to ODB11) to work with the 8Y to do my own scanning. I think the older cable (HEX+CAN) will work for fault codes but not much beyond that.

[RS3sistable]

I would start documenting for lemon law if you state allows. Depending on how audi responds it might be wise.

[S3DUDE]

JANUARY 25TH 2024. It happened again. The car failed to start and it displayed 4 warnings(full sentences). What worries me the most is that as I stated before(in the past) I continued to drive the car for 2 hours a day. 30 minutes one way, turn around and 30 minutes back, Then I do the same thing again later on the day. There is no fuc-king way my car doesn't have a chance to recharge the battery. I am not leaving the radar detector plugged at night either.

So, I had to switch cars because I had to do errands. I came back and I put the DMM and the battery reads 12.51volts. When I was about to plug the battery charger I crank it up and started on the first try but I have several instrument lights on like airbag, warning, etc. I called the dealer and I will be bringing it back to them.

Also, I had to replace the battery on the remote control (FOB) already before this happened, I haven't even owned this car for 2 months. What is your guest? alternator going bad? software glitch? My appointment is not until Feb 13th because I need a loaner and they don't have one until then.

[StrongOnline007]

That sucks. This is definitely not normal and I would also start documenting for lemon law.

[XMetal]

Sounds like a software glitch to me if your battery is reading in the mid 12s. If the battery goes into the low 12s to under 12, then I would suspect alternator or possibly a bad battery. You can also get a cigarette lighter voltmeter and stick it on to monitor the voltages live while you drive to see if it's doing anything funny, like over/under voltage which should give you more clues. You can also buy one of those fairly inexpensive battery tester and do a load test to somewhat rule out the battery. I'm suspecting that your battery should have enough juice to start the car, but the ECU is preventing the startup somehow - this is why I still love and hung onto my "dumb" cars.

[RMode]

Where do you keep your key relative to the car when it’s parked at home?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[S3DUDE]

Where do you keep your key relative to the car when it’s parked at home?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Call it bizarre but in both instances I accidentally dropped the FOB (felt out of my hands) and when I attempted to start it wouldn't. In the first case(over a month ago) the car started after giving it a small voltage jump. On this second occurrence the car just started after coming back from a few errands 2-3 hours later.

I never keep my fob in the pocket, I carry it on my hand and when I enter the car I put it either by the cup holders, the center armrest cubby place , by the passenger seat(sometimes). I know this is a bad habit but I just can't handle things on my pockets when I drive, any friction bothers me.

My wife was telling me that there is a small square on the dash that is sometimes use for starting the car but that applies when your key fob runs low on voltage. The dealer just put a new battery on my FOB as a matter of fact last week. As a side note, I just want to remind everyone that I made a topic a few years back in which I put my pants on the washer with the FOB and it worked fine. It has a great rubber seal.

[S3DUDE]

Sounds like a software glitch to me if your battery is reading in the mid 12s. If the battery goes into the low 12s to under 12, then I would suspect alternator or possibly a bad battery. You can also get a cigarette lighter voltmeter and stick it on to monitor the voltages live while you drive to see if it's doing anything funny, like over/under voltage which should give you more clues. You can also buy one of those fairly inexpensive battery tester and do a load test to somewhat rule out the battery. I'm suspecting that your battery should have enough juice to start the car, but the ECU is preventing the startup somehow - this is why I still love and hung onto my "dumb" cars.

I had my son reading the voltage when I was cranking it and he read 12.2 volts when it started. I was about to connect the battery charger assuming that it wouldn't start but all of the sudden it did. At this point I don't know if I have a faulty battery, a faulty alternator, a glitch on the software or a bad/lose terminal connection or any of the above combined. These cars are very sensitive with the electronics though.

[RMode]

Call it bizarre but in both instances I accidentally dropped the FOB (felt out of my hands) and when I attempted to start it wouldn't. In the first case(over a month ago) the car started after giving it a small voltage jump. On this second occurrence the car just started after coming back from a few errands 2-3 hours later.

I never keep my fob in the pocket, I carry it on my hand and when I enter the car I put it either by the cup holders, the center armrest cubby place , by the passenger seat(sometimes). I know this is a bad habit but I just can't handle things on my pockets when I drive, any friction bothers me.

My wife was telling me that there is a small square on the dash that is sometimes use for starting the car but that applies when your key fob runs low on voltage. The dealer just put a new battery on my FOB as a matter of fact last week. As a side note, I just want to remind everyone that I made a topic a few years back in which I put my pants on the washer with the FOB and it worked fine. It has a great rubber seal.

When it’s parked, not when you’re driving it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[S3DUDE]

When it’s parked, not when you’re driving it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

15-20 feet away or more. In front of it but to the vehicle's right most of the times.

[RMode]

15-20 feet away or more. In front of it but to the vehicle's right most of the times.

Might want to try increasing that - if the key is close to the car, they will always talk. Causing both to die


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[XMetal]

Might want to try increasing that - if the key is close to the car, they will always talk. Causing both to die


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

An easy way to check if the key is far enough is to go to the car and see if you can lock/unlock it by touching the handle. If it doesn't lock/unlock, then you're fine with the key placement in your home.