The Other 2.7t B7 Saloon Swap

[jbain2]

Got rear covers on. Anyone happen to know cam bolt torque value? Going to go ahead and replace tensioner and altenator while I have access.





Fought the 034 bushings for about an hour. Only got AN bushing in. Went to northern bought a 12t press. Hopefully that has the ass to pop those suckers in.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

For the torque value are you talking about the cam shaft sprocket to the cam shaft? If so, it’s 55 Nm or 40 ft-lbs.

If you need something else, shoot me a PM. I have the values from the Audi repair manual.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Phil Dammit]

My man, exactly what I needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Welp had planned to get press setup and crank away on the front subframe and suspension today but dammit if my Bulldog didn get stung by a hornet right on the top of the eyebrow yesterday and have an anaphylactic reaction. Needless to say I will not be working on the vehicle as I am on puppy recovery watch today. However, I took the time to go ahead and order some more goodies so I can keep the momentum going.

New timing Tensioner
Front and Rear Wheel bearings and hubs
LTWT Pulleys for pump and Alt
Rear Delphi Drag links
Rear LCS Bushing set
034 Density Line Sway Bar Links
Upper Spindle Bolts
Rear LCA Bushings
HU and wiring kit

[Phil Dammit]

Finished up some handyman work for the rents, built the midget 12ton press from northern, and finally got passenger front lower and upper solid bushing in the subframe. Note to self, they stay in dry, they back out with prelube. Gonna work on getting remainder in tomorrow and hopefully start buttoning up front suspension.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Some actual progress today.

HU out, final carbon bits in on interior.



After some single operator ingenuity was able to get solid mounts installed in subframe. Height of this carni sized press worked surprisingly well










Subframe in and 90% of components installed. Set COs at 2 5/8” height from spring with 15mm of preload on spring and 18 clicks of rebound. We’ll have to wait to see how it feels before I adjust preload and rebound. I’m pissin in the wind on ride height since ECS instructions don’t give a figure to work from.















Gonna tackle rear subframe and suspension next.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Wired up the head unit.





Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Got the waste gates redialed today. Went blue springs, set 3mm gap, checked both and they pop right at 21lbs . Might adjust to 4mm to get up to 23-24. Kept running into issues with passenger side binding up, after an hour of tinkering figured out bracket from mamba was not quite right with mount hole locations. Drilled new hole and everything lined up. Don’t even need to cut motor mount now woot woot .





Pops pulled rear brakes apart, and prepped subframe to drop. Gonna tackle that later this week.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[xRenesis]

Youre going to overboost with those wastegates Phil, you set for preload not desired boost. Ie, 8 psi of preload for 22-24psi or whatever mine calls for from the tune. Our N75 takes care of the 16psi or whatever extra.

[Phil Dammit]

I’m set at 3mm of preload on blue springs which comes out to 21.5psi per mamba’s chart. Based on supplying load to each with Mitty vac the gates actuate/open at 21.5 psi.

I’ll read up this week on the N75 and its role to understand this better.

Ok I’m retarded. So N75 is the boost controller. That can be set to whatever the tune designates. So it’s a combination of tune and gate spring for overall. However if spring and preload of gates are over that of the controller tune parameters then they won’t actuate, thus over boost and viewing ports through the block. Am I finally understanding this correctly?



Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[xRenesis]

Correct, at 0% duty on the n75 it sends all boost to the wastegate. 80% same thing so it sends the 8psi to open it and modulates to meet demand. If you had no n75 then you would be right to set for the desired boost. N75 just vents the extra so the wastegates don't see 24psi unless there is a problem/limp mode. Preload then becomes your minimum boost

[Phil Dammit]

Well I need to start focusing more on tunes, dammit if I don’t have enough ADD going on while in middle of chassis resto mod . Also am I wrong in thinking these mambas were a “wasted” purchase for the RS hybrids. No reason to control spring stiffness/pressure when majority of the “lifting” is performed by the N75 and assuming stock wastegates had no issue performing at 8psi. Should I drop current spring rate down to be in safer parameters of overall psi to curtail potential over-boost better, I’m thinking yes.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[xRenesis]

It's just one of those thing, is it needed, no. But it's a piston style vs diaphram is the only real trade off and maybe a little more control via spring. Ideally you'd pick green depending what preload your tuner wants. My green ones didn't want to hold anything so I'm running yellow springs set for the 10.5psi, they spike a little more but then come into range.

[Phil Dammit]

Well I guess that's the positive spin as I will take a sealed piston over a diaphragm any day of the week. Guess this will be the 12th time I will pull these off to respring them and then see about setting preload. Wheel bearings shipped yesterday as well as some other engine and chassis goodies. Dropped the rear subframe earlier this week, gonna start tearing into that later this week. Finished taking all my slammed truck parts off the daily last night, she backed to being lifted and a dedicated tow rig for this queen.

[Phil Dammit]

Went to town for about 4 hours yesterday with the old man.
New timing tensioner in, water pump pulley dropped just over 2oz on rotational mass. Prolly gain me 1/10 of a horsepower but it sure does look kewl .



Driver/passenger wheel hub assemblies in as well 034 density control arm links.




Rear subframe pulled, what a beast it was gettin that monstrosity apart. At 208k miles she fought hard but got her torn down and bushings out of the control arms. Need to order new CV inner boot replacement kit and rearward control arm bushing removal tool .






Talked with Phil yesterday. Wiring harness ready to go, ECS V1 coil conversion packaged up, also has a drivers oil return he’s slinging me. Gonna confirm shipping Monday.

Also, my budget build tracker is getting closer to being complete for phase 1. Once I pull trigger on last bulk buy I’ll post it up. Out of all the build threads I’ve read I have yet to see an “here’s what all in looks like number”. Think it’ll be helpful for future readers to see this number to better understand what the bottom line looks like. But of course it’s always cheaper to buy complete or someone’s lost focus/half complete project the only problem is not knowing how well/properly the work was done with the complete and even worse with back tracking on the half complete.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

So while I have all the access in the world with the motor out I think it makes sense to replace the rack. I need inner and outer tied rods so might as well go full replace. Here’s the question I need help confirming steering rack ratios. I’ve read various threads about B7 racks from A4s through to S4s and they seem to differ on opinion if the S4 and RS4 are actually different. I definitely want to go after an S4 as the ratio appears to drop from 16 to 14. I also have read that B7 already have servo assist wiring just a matter of updating module/relay for input of “driver assist”, granted I’m not super inclined for the need since this is not a daily driver build. The question is, is it worth it to source a n RS rack or not….


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[jbain2]

Good luck tracking down a rack. Several years ago I replaced mine (S4). They have become incredibly hard to come by. I actually ended up with a Bosch one from Rock Auto if you can believe it. I’ve heard that the S4 and RS4 are the same but can’t confirm.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Phil Dammit]

So far I’ve found a couple on eBay used and apparently Detroit axle has remans. Just need to verify if the remans are legit. They appear to be, have servo connection. Going to contact them direct and see if they can verify ratio.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

I was able to get part number that Detroit built their reman rack to. It appears they built to B7 S4/RS4 standards and specifications which should mean 14.5:1 ratio over standard B7 A4 16.3:1. I confirmed the OEM part number they built to is 8E1422053J, see below.

a26ccf2b-8bc5-4046-9ebc-0b624be50b81.png

From there I ran into this rack swap thread

Which then confirmed via wolf auto that the 053J is an actual S4/RS4 PN

8E1422053J.JPG

I'm going to do a little more digging but this DA reman might be the route I go.

[Phil Dammit]

Half the rear sub bushings removed. 2.0 A/C comp mounted with 3.0 bracket. Of course alternator replacement sourced is wrong, working on exchanging for correct.





Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Disclaimer I have spent all damn day researching wheel fitment between Audizine, Audi sport, Google, wheel fitment, etc. honestly at this point there are common themes and then outliers. With most of the info being 4+ years old.

What do more recent users think about wheel fitment for track spec wheels on this chassis? I’ve done quite a bit of research and from what I see 18s of either 8 and 8.5 width are the safest bet and you can push those from 40-15 et. I’m not about stretching tires unless it’s just a Sunday driver and even then I’m only about a slight stretch. I’m starting to dive into wheel and tire for track days and I want plenty of meat under this pig to make sure she can put down as much power as possible.

The goals are to run a 9” width on a 18-19 die with so I can stick a 265 tire that’s squared under her. The dreams are to run 9.5 on a 19” but then from what I see the tire height I want to run (40-45 series) will conflict with spindle and not having RS over fenders means the offset needed to clear spindles up front equates to horrible fitment beyond fender lines all around.

So my question is this what ET on a square setup with an 18x9 works best to so I can run between 255-265 on a 40-45 series and not cause myself setbacks after purchasing. Is a net of 30-35 safe while allowing for body roll and overall suspension travel. Keeping in mind angle of suspension rebound will allow for “tuck”. I don’t plan to slam her by any means. I plan to setup to react to the track and allow for both droop and up travel, again use as much as I can out of the ecs suspension system.

Let me know what you all have seen.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Ordered another batch of goodies, short shifter, ecs sway bars, ecs exhaust kit, rear adjustable arms, hopefully the right alternator , 4bar map, rear hubs, and a mess of other goodies.

In the interim said good bye to the L494 Rover sport V8 and got mommy back into an Audi. 19’ Q7 3.0 PP w/ tech package and 3rd row. Grey interior with orca black exterior. Couldn be happier to be back in another Audi, will be the 4th this family has owned, 5th in my lifetime . Definitely makes me want an SQ7 .





Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Progress and of course some back steps …

New steering wheel in, let the daughter pick her out. Has her favorite color. Little cherry blossom flower for that JDM feel .





Finally figured out the right alternator, mounted with new pulley. Pulleys weight was more significant than I anticipated. 8.72oz reduction from Valero to ECS . Overall between the three I’ve dropped just at or above 16oz in rotational mass .





Last warm day prolly on the east coast for the season so power washed and threw down some prime and gloss on the rear subframe to prep for finally build out.



Pulled oem rack out, got RS rack prepped to figure out that the pump feed line I ordered is not the right one. It’s too long and has female fitting. Unless I’m supposed to swap motor line as well . Pretty sure it’s wrong so back to drawing board. Will most likely post up on 2.7 swap fb page for insight.

While I had rack out threw some miner bits back on the spindles.




Decent day of progress. Also talked to Phil last Friday. Harness and coil conversion kit should ship this week,


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[jbain2]

Looking good. Subframe looks off the line shiny!


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Phil Dammit]

Thanks my dude, once I get a little further along I’ll hit you up about comin over to check out the progress.

Figured out my power steering line issue, w PICNIC . I missed the part number by two digits. Just hit up FCP to swap for the right one. Lot easier to confirm if you physically look at the end connection, I would have never ordered the wrong one had I not ordered it “blind”.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[xRenesis]

Had to remember where I posted it, but this is one that will work 4A1422893AA. The racks are straight swaps when keeping the same motor, but the hose changes with the 2.7.

[Phil Dammit]

Yeup, that’s what I have in my build notes. Definitely not what I currently have on hand though. Definitely my fault..

All I hear is Red Forman in the background “What are you a dumbass?!?!?!”

[Phil Dammit]

Had some extra hands tonight. Got a few things installed after many trials and errors.

REVIN shifter is in after some massaging of the brand new mount plate




Still have some massaging todo with the factory boot, and most likely some hacking of the oem ash tray to get everything in to an oem plus feel

RS rack is in and new rod ends and correct ps line. However I’m 90% positive I got the kind in upside down




ECS performance sway bar is in after 5 attempts with density line links. Don’t know how but ECS put the decal on upside down. I tried mounting in opposite orientation but it literally doesn work.








Got one of the rear lower fully torn down finally and rear subframe has all of the 034 solid bushings mounted. Somehow I didn snag photos of these


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Tried out G2 for caliper paint. This is second effort, first attempt was shit, but still in for less than half local PC quote. Went with Audi velvet purple. Will see tomorrow how they turned out with this go around.

Also spent time lookin at the engine. Pops and I noted early on that the motor looked like it got a valve job. Just realized tonight our assumptions were right. Passenger side has a BEL head, drivers has APB. Block is a BF so a small win as I see BF have thicker webbing.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[jbain2]

That’s really weird that someone didn’t do matching heads. I don’t know if there will be any ramifications. The coilpack fitment will be different based on the valve covers though.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Phil Dammit]

It is random but there is no difference, that I see, from apb and bel other than coil pack attachment/type which is harness and valve covers. I’m running apb valve covers and harness though.

Edit: I also understand that there is difference between the ECM but I was supplied with both options. My ECM says there is an E85 stage III tune on it. Which one is the mystery….

Of course I read further and find out I can air brush the epoxy from G2. I have a super slick Iwata system begging to get some use with an Eclipse HP CS gun that I’ve used for a few touchup jobs that I inherited from the wife.

Looks like I’m gonna do a light scuff with a 600g on the brakes and then do one final coat just to make them primo with the Iwata. Then imma spray my valve covers with this paint to give that engine bay a little .


First attempt







Second attempt shows forward progress








Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Decent progress today.

Both rear lower control arms have had 208k miles worth of grime wire brushed off.




Buttoned up interior trans tunnel and stereo harness wiring.






Confirmed the reman rack is an RS ratio. Takes a qtr less turn to clock steering in either direction. 1.25 now vs 1.5 .

New wheel bearings and hubs installed with new spindle lower bushings.



ECS sport diff mount installed




Was a real treat using all of our existing tools/kits to get them in and out.







Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Your boys back at it finally. See if I can get this entire rear end buttoned up today.




Progress






Tore the joints apart, new boots and repacked with fresh. Love the crusty 208k mile grease…



Almost ready for install babay





After a little lunch break got her back in. Mounted ECS suspension kit, rotors, and sway bar. Tomorrow more rear end and motor work.











Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Duece McCracken]

Awesome build! Glad to see more progress on it!!

I say I have no intentions on a 2.7t swap, but seeing people do it does get me all giddy, lol. Maybe one day I'll really consider it.

[Phil Dammit]

Awesome build! Glad to see more progress on it!!

I say I have no intentions on a 2.7t swap, but seeing people do it does get me all giddy, lol. Maybe one day I'll really consider it.

But you have an Avant and already manual… DO IT.

Phil says my harness and coil convert shipped today. Fingers Crossed.


Got my ass handed to me today with more rear end but still steps forward.

Rear calipers on, was able to put SS line on drivers but passengers is rusted shut. Even after floating with PB Blaster, heating up with fire, and banging away with brass hammer.






ECS exhaust mocked up. Plan to weld up som wood the connections to reduce all the clampage.






Drive shaft in.





Front calipers back on for mock up of wheel fitment. Without spacers on B8 peelers gives me about 2mm of clearance between caliper and wheel.






Weird seeing her with wheels on all around but it looks good for winter set till I pull trigger on a track setup






Look at all that droop lol

Tore oem lights apart to transfer HID setup over only to find out burners for oem don’t work on aftermarket set. Gonna need to follow up on what that’s about.

Motor work later this week.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Phil Dammit]

Got some more done between a few hours Thursday and Friday. Toying with stabbing the tranny in now so I can dial in the shifter and bleed the slave easier to cross that off the list.

Phil says harness has shipped this week, hoping I get it by next week.

Tried to salvage the existing passenger rear brake line but it’s so aged and rusted I’m gonna have to replace. Also need to buy stoptech st40 style hardliners for the front as the ecs pair I bought won’t work.


Cleaned the tranny up




Got the interior back together. Had to hack away at the nrg mount so I can keep the factory harness plug so I can dial in airbag resistors and plug up horn.






Got the mambas dialed and preloaded to 10.5-11psi with yellow springs.




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Duece McCracken]

Cool!

That steering wheel is dripping with pizazz, lol

[Phil Dammit]

Burnin the midnight oil tonight. Intake pipes mounted, with t-bolts and step down couplers. Had a small chunk of mirror finished SS that I’ve been saving for an moment going on 8 years and finally found that moment to utilize.










Also cleaned up the engine, evap delete started, 4bar MAP in, and ECS adjustable fuel regulator in.






She getting closer




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[jbain2]

Looking good! Keep up the good work!


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum