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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
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    New engine mounts and vehicle still shakes. - 2017 Audi A6 3.0T

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    I recently got the 034 Motorsport street-line engine mounts and I had them both installed at a greatly rated service shop for 400$ (not a bad price). Though I believe they did a great job and as far as I have inspected the new mounts in the engine, all seems okay.

    However, when I drive it, it still shakes. The mounts have been put for like a week and past 300miles break-in period (if they have one). That service shop also told me my front control arms need to be replaced in a bit. I also inspected them and every bushing seems okay…

    One fun little detail: A few months ago when I was washing my wheels, i saw a wheel balancing weight (those tiny grey rectangles) right next to my foot. Keep in mind that I was using high pressure rinse quite close to the wheel to take the dirt off and maybe I striped out one of them and now tires are unbalanced?

    I’m suspecting either control arms, cv axle or even struts… who knows. Has anyone else had this issue?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings ENV²'s Avatar
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    New engine mounts and vehicle still shakes. - 2017 Audi A6 3.0T

    Get the wheels balanced, checked for bends, and the car alignment checked and aligned if needed. Start easy then move toward the transmission mount, bearings, control arms etc.


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  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by ENV² View Post
    Get the wheels balanced, checked for bends, and the car alignment checked and aligned if needed. Start easy then move toward the transmission mount, bearings, control arms etc.


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    Yep. I agree. I have inspected transmission mount when I changed the fluid, installed trans and diff mount inserts and bearings are okay as well, no movement on tires or any sound.
    HOWEVER, when I turn my wheel completely to the left or right, the car vibrates, so maybe it is either control arms or cv joint/axle.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Audibot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touareggg View Post
    HOWEVER, when I turn my wheel completely to the left or right, the car vibrates, so maybe it is either control arms or cv joint/axle.
    This at idle or while slowly moving? If while slowly moving, sounds like quattro rumble maybe?
    2016 A6 TDI Prestige - Tornado Gray. Malone Stage 2, DPF Delete, EGR blockoff, S6 F&R brakes, 034 RSB, RSNav S4, P3 v3 TDI gauge
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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audibot View Post
    This at idle or while slowly moving? If while slowly moving, sounds like quattro rumble maybe?
    That happens when I’m slowly moving but it didn’t do it before tho. Sometimes but rarely it even does it when im stopped

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I've had that rumble for three years. Slowly getting worse and at least 3 shops can't find what's wrong. It's NOT normal, as the car was perfectly smooth and buttery at full lock until about 40000 miles...


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  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spitfire007 View Post
    I've had that rumble for three years. Slowly getting worse and at least 3 shops can't find what's wrong. It's NOT normal, as the car was perfectly smooth and buttery at full lock until about 40000 miles...


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Exactly! Before 45,000 miles, the ride quality was awesome. No shaking at all or any vibrations. Now the car feels like a massage chair with vibrations throughout the whole cabin and shuddering. I tend not to worry about it much but at this point this is getting too much.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
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    Transmission mount? Crank pulley? I ask these as the OP states it does it sometimes when stationary.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Audibot's Avatar
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    Mounts and mount inserts I'm betting.

    Went to stiffer than stock engine mounts (which are hydraulically damped) to solid rubber. Also the mount inserts fill the voids in the rubber, which it uses to flex and dampen vibrations, and it cannot do that now.

    The lower control arm bushings are fluid-filled, so maybe it's leaked out. Or if they are cracked a bit, that could be it. Mileage varies, but I've heard replacements earlier than 40k miles and others after 90k miles.
    2016 A6 TDI Prestige - Tornado Gray. Malone Stage 2, DPF Delete, EGR blockoff, S6 F&R brakes, 034 RSB, RSNav S4, P3 v3 TDI gauge
    2003 RS 6 - Misano Red. AMD ECU/TCU tune, KW V3s, Hotchkis sway bars, Phaeton brake ducts, red carbon fiber trim
    2005 allroad 6MT swap - Alpaca Beige
    2003 allroad 6MT - Highland Green Metallic / Fern Green & Desert Green interior (1 of 15 max) - WIP
    2003 allroad 6MT - SOLD like a dumbass
    2007 A4 2.0T quattro - Gone but not forgotten

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I have two newish (within 20k) OEM engine mounts, and some new bushings....
    I've done every fluid change possible on this car. Rumble still there. Disappears when I pop it into neutral, when in tight parking lot turns.
    Indy and dealer say most likely center diff is culprit. Nothing you can do but swap it out.
    I'm not up for that.


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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Audibot's Avatar
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    Reminds me of the vibration I got with my B7 over time. That was torque converter related, but definitely got worse when I changed out my snub mount for one stiffer. Maybe that mount needs replacement too?
    2016 A6 TDI Prestige - Tornado Gray. Malone Stage 2, DPF Delete, EGR blockoff, S6 F&R brakes, 034 RSB, RSNav S4, P3 v3 TDI gauge
    2003 RS 6 - Misano Red. AMD ECU/TCU tune, KW V3s, Hotchkis sway bars, Phaeton brake ducts, red carbon fiber trim
    2005 allroad 6MT swap - Alpaca Beige
    2003 allroad 6MT - Highland Green Metallic / Fern Green & Desert Green interior (1 of 15 max) - WIP
    2003 allroad 6MT - SOLD like a dumbass
    2007 A4 2.0T quattro - Gone but not forgotten

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spitfire007 View Post
    I've done every fluid change possible on this car.
    +1 for this. I also changed all fluids in this car and it still shakes as if those fluids just sit there with no purpose. At low-mid speed (up to 40mph), the ride is quite smooth with a little shaking but not so noticeable, however, at higher speeds, i get a free massage on my whole body. Lovely!

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audibot View Post
    Reminds me of the vibration I got with my B7 over time. That was torque converter related, but definitely got worse when I changed out my snub mount for one stiffer. Maybe that mount needs replacement too?

    I didn’t purchase snub mounts since I didn’t see many others mentioning it so I just bought the mounts because mine were completely shot! It could be that honestly, you’d never know. For now I can only check and confirm that those mounts are sitting correctly and firmly, but maybe they over torqued some bolts or let them loose. I have no tools to re-put them back in tho.

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valpo A7 View Post
    Transmission mount? Crank pulley? I ask these as the OP states it does it sometimes when stationary.
    I was just checking for a tranny mount and it is not that cheap so I’m just saving up for it if that ends up being the culprit. When I changed the fluid, it seemed pretty solid up there but I only did a quick check.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audibot View Post
    Mounts and mount inserts I'm betting.

    Went to stiffer than stock engine mounts (which are hydraulically damped) to solid rubber. Also the mount inserts fill the voids in the rubber, which it uses to flex and dampen vibrations, and it cannot do that now.

    The lower control arm bushings are fluid-filled, so maybe it's leaked out. Or if they are cracked a bit, that could be it. Mileage varies, but I've heard replacements earlier than 40k miles and others after 90k miles.
    My oem mounts were shot and the engine wanted to escape when I tested it. So, I went with 034motorsport. I’ve seen them complain about little NVH at idle, which I do get occasionally but it doesn’t bother me at all. What annoys me is the rough shaking at highway speeds. (60+mph)

    As of control arms, I didn’t notice any leaks. Mind you i had the vehicle on ramps and my motion was a bit limited but I took under-trays off and didn’t seem suspicious. Hopefully this other shop that I’m going to finds what’s wrong.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings Botbasher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touareggg View Post
    +1 for this. I also changed all fluids in this car and it still shakes as if those fluids just sit there with no purpose. At low-mid speed (up to 40mph), the ride is quite smooth with a little shaking but not so noticeable, however, at higher speeds, i get a free massage on my whole body. Lovely!
    Have you checked the Propshaft Carrier Bearing? Always overlooked but causes the vibrations you are describing to a T!

    Easy to do... here's a quick vid. https://youtu.be/--6i2wRRgc0?si=npybXNval6C0DT9K

    Cheers,

    KS

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings q2quest's Avatar
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    The first thing you need to do is isolate from where/when you feel the vibration. Is it shaking from the engine/mounts at idle or is it a rolling vibration from the wheels. Is the vibration while applying the brakes or no? There are a lot of suggestions here, but we need to narrow this down first. Do some experiments on the highway. When the vibration is at its worst put the car in neutral and let the RPMs come down to idle for a few seconds while still traveling at speed. If that did nothing to change the vibration you can rule out engine mounts. If the vibration is unchanged I would first crawl under the car and grab the drive shaft and see how much play there is in that carrier bearing as was previously suggested. After that I would have all the wheels rebalanced. I would bet that is where the problem is although it could very well be something else as others have suggested.
    Last edited by q2quest; 09-30-2023 at 12:59 AM.
    2018 A6 3.0T Competition Package, Daytona Gray, Jackal Motorsports Stage 2, 15mm wheel spacers

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Try this:

    Empty parking lot. Put the car in drive, let off brake. Once the car is rolling 5-10mph jab the brakes quickly and with some force. Listen for a clunk. If so, you likely need control arms.
    2012 A6 Prestige - APR single pulley via Fluidampr 189, Injen intake+RS7 airbox, IE HPFP, EPL TCU, JHM HX, 034 motor mounts, Eurocode drivetrain inserts, gutted cats - 034 tunes purchased, not installed.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Two Rings FourRingThing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touareggg View Post
    I recently got the 034 Motorsport street-line engine mounts and I had them both installed at a greatly rated service shop for 400$ (not a bad price). Though I believe they did a great job and as far as I have inspected the new mounts in the engine, all seems okay.

    However, when I drive it, it still shakes. The mounts have been put for like a week and past 300miles break-in period (if they have one). That service shop also told me my front control arms need to be replaced in a bit. I also inspected them and every bushing seems okay…

    One fun little detail: A few months ago when I was washing my wheels, i saw a wheel balancing weight (those tiny grey rectangles) right next to my foot. Keep in mind that I was using high pressure rinse quite close to the wheel to take the dirt off and maybe I striped out one of them and now tires are unbalanced?

    I’m suspecting either control arms, cv axle or even struts… who knows. Has anyone else had this issue?
    I know what the issue is, I thought I had the same issue vibrating at idle suspected motor mounts, I was also getting what I thought was an issue with the transmission as it would have a strange vibrating when decelerating so I replaced the transmission fluid, not it, also vibrations on the highway if I got close to 100. Drum roll please, I ordered the street line density front control arm kit from 034 Motorsport and it solved all of my issues added all 4 B8 Bilstein's as well better than new by miles.

    This not a cheap fix $3K but solved several issues could not be happier.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motor...-401-1045~034/
    2021 B9 S5, Black optics, Sorts Package, Black door handles, spoiler wrapped black, IE intake and inlet pipe, ECS Tuning strut tower support.

    (sold) 2012 C7 A6 3.0T Prestige, Innovation Package, 20" Sport Package.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by FourRingThing View Post
    I know what the issue is, I thought I had the same issue vibrating at idle suspected motor mounts, I was also getting what I thought was an issue with the transmission as it would have a strange vibrating when decelerating so I replaced the transmission fluid, not it, also vibrations on the highway if I got close to 100. Drum roll please, I ordered the street line density front control arm kit from 034 Motorsport and it solved all of my issues added all 4 B8 Bilstein's as well better than new by miles.

    This not a cheap fix $3K but solved several issues could not be happier.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motor...-401-1045~034/
    This is very helpful as I'm feeling some of what you describe. I'll be sure to relate to my Indy. Thanks!



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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    How do you like the Bilsteins?
    B8 a can be quite stiff under 60-70 mph. They are sublime on the highway however!


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  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Honestly, my transmission does clunk at times but since I hear it on the front, it could be those control arms/bushings. Maybe the rubber has cracked or I really do need new control arms. I feel safer going OEM (or close to) by choosing Lemforder pack rather than 034.
    Here's the link for the kit:

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...r-8k0407151dkt

  23. #23
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    Update: After a couple of visits at a shop, I was shown and told that there are some faulty wheel bearings, I believe Front left or rear left. Then, I saw a tiny crack of front control arms so there's that. I did a wheel balancing and alignment because potholes here are just insane. I found this link for wheel bearing on FCPEuro and was wondering if it's actually OEM. Though I believe its not because those are made in Slovakia and OEM parts are mostly made in Germany.

    Do I need all front control arms or just the bushings will do? Those arms seem solid and generally clean. Here's the link for those Lemforder (OEM) control arm kit.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
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    Febi Billstein or *** will be good choices.

    Coming from FCP they should be carrying quality parts especially with their 100% return policy.

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