
Originally Posted by
carguy19
How many miles are on your car?
If you have higher miles, you're better off not changing the fluid in the diff, just top it off. Audi dealers don't recommend full fluid changes at any mileage, only level inspection and checking for leaks.
New fluid, although an oil, can cause more issues then do good when tolerances are tight and clutches abundant.
I would just top it off if I were you.
this is not great advice, audi dealers call it a "lifetime" fluid, NO FLUID is a lifetime fluid. what audi means by that is "this fluid will last as long as your warranty and or most of our first owners will keep the car" failing after that period is a feature, not a bug. planned obsolescence. just like the rear diff oil is lifetime fill, or the sc oil is lifetime fill. it's a "it lasts long enough that it's not OUR problem" kind of thing. whether it becomes YOUR problem is a totally different issue. thankfully it is cheap and easy to change out.
@op i blew up my rear diff, not sure if it was abuse from previous owner or wheel hop launching in damp/wet conditions but i damaged some gears and it was whining really bad and creating a metal slurry so i replaced it with another used unit, fluid had never been changed and was very dark and nasty, and that's not even a limited slip diff that would get dirty from clutches wearing. in the new diff given it is an open diff i had them fill with motul gear 300, and did motul gear 300 in the gearbox section of the dsg as well and is has been great with no issues.
you're welcome to use the audi oil as well if you prefer.
WHAT YOU DO NEED TO BE CAREFUL ABOUT is you need a non corrosive gear oil, there's corrosivity tests on copper for some of the gear oils over time and with heat that is exacerbated, i want to say mt90 was least corrosive but i don't remember so look it up, gear300 was not concerning either.
WHY IS THIS IMPORTANT? you have a sensor, the gear position sensor, that is known to sometimes fail already on this platform, and replacing it is like 2k, mostly labor plus the $400 sensor assembly. that sensor has copper traces and wires, so while we don't need to worry about corrosivity in the traditional context of "being safe for yellow metals" (ie brass synchro's) we still want to make sure we use the least corrosive gear oil possible to protect that sensor as much as possible.
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