CV axle rebuild-- How to reinstall??-- Help

[Silkrcket]

Looking for help--

I pulled the driver's side CV axle and replaced both boots. I did this to retain the OEM axle. The issue I have is threading the axle back into the hub. I have tried multiple angles during install. I am looking for help on how to reinstall this axle. Any tricks or approaches that have been learned over the years. I searched the forum with little on this topic, only the removal is outlined.

Currently, I have tried with the wheel turned all the way to the right with the suspension jacked up on the ball joint (this is how I removed the axle). It seemed almost impossible to reinstall this way as the CV joint was stressed significantly with little luck and the rear CV pushed all the way up into the driver's side turbo area.

I cannot release the pinch bolt as it is frozen via rust to the arm.

Any help or direction is appreciated, I have been trying to line this axle up for a few hours on and off over the last two days.

[MNorth]

Looking for help--

I pulled the driver's side CV axle and replaced both boots. I did this to retain the OEM axle. The issue I have is threading the axle back into the hub. I have tried multiple angles during install. I am looking for help on how to reinstall this axle. Any tricks or approaches that have been learned over the years. I searched the forum with little on this topic, only the removal is outlined.

Currently, I have tried with the wheel turned all the way to the right with the suspension jacked up on the ball joint (this is how I removed the axle). It seemed almost impossible to reinstall this way as the CV joint was stressed significantly with little luck and the rear CV pushed all the way up into the driver's side turbo area.

I cannot release the pinch bolt as it is frozen via rust to the arm.

Any help or direction is appreciated, I have been trying to line this axle up for a few hours on and off over the last two days.

Can you be a bit more specific buddy. Can you not get the inner CV into the axle flange on the transmission or can you get it into the flange and not into the front knuckle afterwards?

If it was me I’d be freeing that pinch bolt as you’ll have to do it sooner or later. Best way is to get someone to push down on both the upper arms and hit it with a forged punch and a hammer. Another approach it to use waterproof tape to make it as watertight as possible and use a syringe to put some rest resolver in their (something like evaporust and leave it for a day.

You could also remove the track rod end from the knuckle to allow more movement by hand to get the outer joint seated

[cu52]

I also agree. Deal with the pinch bolt now. I use Free-All and clamp the upper arms down to the spindle and and get that bolt out. Air hammer or other means.

Once the upper arms and pinch are out the axle install is cake!

[Silkrcket]

I agree that the pinch bolt has to be addressed. I will soon, but I wrestled with it for about an hour or two, even using a 4lb sledge on the bolt trying to hit it out. no luck. I will try the method you listed above. I noticed they have a gel for the evaporust.

I feel clueless about the insertion of the axle. I have been trying to get the outer into the knuckle first, is this wrong? Should I get the inner lined up first with the trans?

[MNorth]

I agree that the pinch bolt has to be addressed. I will soon, but I wrestled with it for about an hour or two, even using a 4lb sledge on the bolt trying to hit it out. no luck. I will try the method you listed above. I noticed they have a gel for the evaporust.

I feel clueless about the insertion of the axle. I have been trying to get the outer into the knuckle first, is this wrong? Should I get the inner lined up first with the trans?

Yes it should be in the inner flange first. Are you sure you’ve knock the outer cv fully onto the shaft, I’ve seen people before now think they’re fully seated and they’ve not been. You should be able to grip the outer cv and it should move about 1 1/2 inches towards and away from the shaft, if you can’t do that then you’ve not knocked it on hard enough and the c clip hasn’t made it past the inner splines of the CV joint.

[Silverex]

Helps to turn the steering wheel all the way.

Can be alil difficult depending on your setup without pulling the pinch bolt but if you got it out obviously in can go back, just have to line splines up correctly.

For pinch bolt lots of lube, map gas, and turning the bolt a few times in between wacks with the 4lb sledge should get it out.

[ShelbyM3]

On my Allroad, I remember it being very tight on the driver’s side. Shove the transmission side up and forward, have the steering wheel at full lock and lock the steering wheel there, and you should have just enough room to sneak the CV past the hub. Once you’re in there’s plenty of room. Steering wheel at full lock was the key for me.


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[Monty23]

I have removed and reinstalled my axles 10+ times with only removing the axle heat shields. The trick is, you need to get the control arms all the way up. I'm sure you know this but its still work saying. THIS IS VERY VERY DANGEROUS. YOU HAVE 1000 LB PER INCH SPRINGS compressed which means if your car or jack that's is compressing the springs moves... you and whatever else is in the way of the spring/control arm/axles way will get obliterated!!! Be very careful and make sure you are 100% confident nothing will move before touching the axle during removal and install.

You need to get the control arm all the way up (both wheels should be off the ground/ jack stands on that side). Also, mark the Driver side axle with a zip tie so you know which one is which (if you are removing both sides).

Good luck.

[Calif_Kid]

If you can get the pinch bolt out, then you might also loosen the end of the tie rod like is shown at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40v4KWD2QVQ. I needed to remove the driver side axle on my 2001 A6 2.7T 6-speed, and I removed the pinch bolt and loosened the end of the tie rod to get the axle out as shown in the video. To get the axle back in, I ended up removing the heat shield on the trans to give a little more room to maneuver the axle get the splines to match up at the outer end, and to get the pinch bolt reinstalled, I used a wratchet strap to loosely strap the upright to the shock, and then jacked everything up to get the pinch bolt reinstalled and finally the tie rod end. If you loosen the tie rod end, then make sure to not rotate it or the toe-in will be affected. - Jim

[Silkrcket]

Thanks for all the great info and guidance.
Just FYI, the car is currently on quick jacks, so all 4 tires are off the ground. I'm using a standard floor jack to compress the suspension. I hope to have a friend come over and lend a hand tonight.
This is the first repair on this car since I purchased it, it's already beating the piss out of me.

[Silkrcket]

I have removed and reinstalled my axles 10+ times with only removing the axle heat shields. The trick is, you need to get the control arms all the way up. I'm sure you know this but its still work saying. THIS IS VERY VERY DANGEROUS. YOU HAVE 1000 LB PER INCH SPRINGS compressed which means if your car or jack that's is compressing the springs moves... you and whatever else is in the way of the spring/control arm/axles way will get obliterated!!! Be very careful and make sure you are 100% confident nothing will move before touching the axle during removal and install.

You need to get the control arm all the way up (both wheels should be off the ground/ jack stands on that side). Also, mark the Driver side axle with a zip tie so you know which one is which (if you are removing both sides).

Good luck.

Was there an angle or position you used to get the axle into the splines/ hub? I have tried a few angles with no success. I was always trying to get the outer in place first, seems this is incorrect? Others sound like they are putting in the outer first, so i'm a little confused. Guess whatever works.

[Silkrcket]

Yes it should be in the inner flange first. Are you sure you’ve knock the outer cv fully onto the shaft, I’ve seen people before now think they’re fully seated and they’ve not been. You should be able to grip the outer cv and it should move about 1 1/2 inches towards and away from the shaft, if you can’t do that then you’ve not knocked it on hard enough and the c clip hasn’t made it past the inner splines of the CV joint.

I'll give the CV a quick check, I did give it a few good hits with a dead blow and felt it bottom out.

[LJS]

Was there an angle or position you used to get the axle into the splines/ hub? I have tried a few angles with no success. I was always trying to get the outer in place first, seems this is incorrect? Others sound like they are putting in the outer first, so i'm a little confused. Guess whatever works.

FWIW-
I've done front axles all 3-ways---Pinch bolt removal, lower control arm removal and Monty23's method....Monty;s method is the easiest but it is a bit disconcerting when you see the car off the jack stand...But it works...(I've done this on S4's with street coilovers and was too lazy to unload the springs)
Get the spline into the hub first-have the wheel turned out fully...thread in the axle bolt, straighten the wheel then guide the axle up while lowering the control arm to get the flanges to lineup...you'll be surprised how easy it is

[PwrWgn]

It's been a little while but I'm almost positive you can do it with just unbolting the tie rod and turning the wheel all the way in. Takes a little wrestling and maybe pulling a small bracket off hp2 calipers (if you have stock), but shouldn't require pulling any control arms.

[Silkrcket]

FWIW-
I've done front axles all 3-ways---Pinch bolt removal, lower control arm removal and Monty23's method....Monty;s method is the easiest but it is a bit disconcerting when you see the car off the jack stand...But it works...(I've done this on S4's with street coilovers and was too lazy to unload the springs)
Get the spline into the hub first-have the wheel turned out fully...thread in the axle bolt, straighten the wheel then guide the axle up while lowering the control arm to get the flanges to lineup...you'll be surprised how easy it is

Pretty much what we did last night and finally got the axle in.

Really needed another set of hands and eyes to feed the axle into the splines. I had the front loaded up with the wheel fully turned to the right. The inner was pushed towards the drivers side by the transmission. We guided it in with a long punch.

During the process of this repair, I also attempted to remove the tierod from the knuckle. The tie rod is now only half seated. Another pinch bolt issue here. I sprayed it last night with PB blaster, hoping to release this bolt and feed the tie rod end fully up into the knuckle.

[MNorth]

Pretty much what we did last night and finally got the axle in.

Really needed another set of hands and eyes to feed the axle into the splines. I had the front loaded up with the wheel fully turned to the right. The inner was pushed towards the drivers side by the transmission. We guided it in with a long punch.

During the process of this repair, I also attempted to remove the tierod from the knuckle. The tie rod is now only half seated. Another pinch bolt issue here. I sprayed it last night with PB blaster, hoping to release this bolt and feed the tie rod end fully up into the knuckle.

The tie rod is quite a simple procedure, however, it’s difficult to explain. Google: cipgas control arm install it’s a very good video that also outlines the removal of the tie rod 👍

[Silkrcket]

The tie rod is quite a simple procedure, however, it’s difficult to explain. Google: cipgas control arm install it’s a very good video that also outlines the removal of the tie rod 👍

I'll check out that video. I currently have the tie rod 1/4 way out and cannot get it back in. There is a Hex in the top that is supposed to alight the dimple on the tie rod end. Yet with some movement, i'm not having any luck. I am unsure why it will not go back up into the knuckle with force since that is how I got it to come down with some force.

Pic:

PXL_20230830_141635091.MP.jpg

[oasis]

I'll check out that video. I currently have the tie rod 1/4 way out and cannot get it back in. There is a Hex in the top that is supposed to alight the dimple on the tie rod end. Yet with some movement, i'm not having any luck. I am unsure why it will not go back up into the knuckle with force since that is how I got it to come down with some force.

Pic:

PXL_20230830_141635091.MP.jpg

The bolt needs to be removed first..

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[PwrWgn]

Yea there is a recess on the taper seat of the tie rod for the clamping bolt. You need to remove that clamping bolt to get it in.

The order I follow is: No bolts installed - mate the tapers, loose install clamping bolt (with recess aligned - can rotate ball joint with Allen if needed), snug top screw to cinch taper, then final torque clamping bolt along with top screw.

[Monty23]

Pretty much what we did last night and finally got the axle in.

Really needed another set of hands and eyes to feed the axle into the splines. I had the front loaded up with the wheel fully turned to the right. The inner was pushed towards the drivers side by the transmission. We guided it in with a long punch.

During the process of this repair, I also attempted to remove the tierod from the knuckle. The tie rod is now only half seated. Another pinch bolt issue here. I sprayed it last night with PB blaster, hoping to release this bolt and feed the tie rod end fully up into the knuckle.

FWIW, I never have to turn the wheel or anything. If its not going in, that means you need to get the wheel up a bit more. It's best to keep all 4 wheels on the ground and jack up the wheel all the way.

[Silkrcket]

Yea there is a recess on the taper seat of the tie rod for the clamping bolt. You need to remove that clamping bolt to get it in.

The order I follow is: No bolts installed - mate the tapers, loose install clamping bolt (with recess aligned - can rotate ball joint with Allen if needed), snug top screw to cinch taper, then final torque clamping bolt along with top screw.

What's odd to me is that I was able to get it down but not back up into the knuckle with the bolt installed. I was using the allen, and turned it. When I do this it forces the tie rod farther down. I hammered it back up to the current position in the picture and added the top bolt as it was supposed to rotate the tie rod as well, but didn't.

Now the allen is very tight and doesn't move. Not sure how to remedy this. I was thinking about taking a short slow cruise around the block and see if the suspension load and travel make any changes.

[PwrWgn]

Yea I'm not totally sure I understand your issue.

If you remove both bolts, you should be able to separate the tie rod from the upright/knuckle no problem (might need to tap down with a mallet).

The top bolt is only going to rotate the ball joint as much as the recess allows, which is probably like a few degrees. Once you tighten the clamping bolt the ball joint shouldn't rotate in the knuckle.

If you banged out the tie rod without removing the clamping bolt then maybe you mangled something in there.

[Silkrcket]

Yea I'm not totally sure I understand your issue.

If you remove both bolts, you should be able to separate the tie rod from the upright/knuckle no problem (might need to tap down with a mallet).

The top bolt is only going to rotate the ball joint as much as the recess allows, which is probably like a few degrees. Once you tighten the clamping bolt the ball joint shouldn't rotate in the knuckle.

If you banged out the tie rod without removing the clamping bolt then maybe you mangled something in there.

The tie rod isn't out of the knuckle, just about a 1/4 out. It never came any farther than that. I can't seem to get it back in. I'll try to heat the pinch bolt up with some MAP gas and see if I can get it to budge. I should easily get everything back together once that is done.

[Calif_Kid]

I currently have the tie rod 1/4 way out and cannot get it back in. There is a Hex in the top that is supposed to alight the dimple on the tie rod end. Yet with some movement, i'm not having any luck. I am unsure why it will not go back up into the knuckle with force since that is how I got it to come down with some force.

Pic:

PXL_20230830_141635091.MP.jpg

I suggest not heating it. Instead, remove the nut and tap out the thru bolt, and you should then be able to carefully tap down on the tie rod to get it fully released, and then make sure that the shaft and collar are clean, use the hex at the top to rotate the dimple to approximately the correct rotation, and then reinsert it, and you might be able to fine tune the rotation slightly. It seems strange that the bolt/nut are attached right now with the tie rod not all the way up in the correct position, but maybe the bolt isn't in the dimple. - Jim

[Silkrcket]

I suggest not heating it. Instead, remove the nut and tap out the thru bolt, and you should then be able to carefully tap down on the tie rod to get it fully released, and then make sure that the shaft and collar are clean, use the hex at the top to rotate the dimple to approximately the correct rotation, and then reinsert it, and you might be able to fine tune the rotation slightly. It seems strange that the bolt/nut are attached right now with the tie rod not all the way up in the correct position, but maybe the bolt isn't in the dimple. - Jim

I was guessing the same, that the dimple was shifted. I rotated the end with the hex. Then I heated it up with the intention of removing the pinch bolt. After some heat and some hammer blows, nothing moved on the pinch bolt. So, I decided to hammer up the tie rod. This worked!! Test drive later today to make sure nothing odd happens.

Thanks everyone for the help and input.

[Ratstack]

How far up did you jack the knuckle? I got pretty close but gave up last night. Thinking i gotta get that tranny splash shield off. Looking around for a 6mm hex.

[Cybersombosis]

Heat shield removed will definitely help. Should pop right out with it removed and the inner joint shoved up into that space. If you have one, a ball head long hex socket works well on those heat shield bolts as you can come in at an angle from down town with a bunch of extensions.

[Ratstack]

Got all but that upper right one out with an Allen key I found haha. Not happening with the last one. Time to get an Allen set

[Ratstack]

Is it easiest to connect the sway bar last when taking the control arms out? Like could I thread in the ball joints a little to the arms then do the sway?