Alignment or No Alignment? - B8 A4 2009 - Too rusted to align without new parts :/

[SDF1]

I have a 2009 A4 B8 2.0T Quattro with 125k Miles.

Just got a new set of Bridgestone Potenza RE980 A/S Plus and did a roadforce balance bringing all the wheels between 8-12lbs.
Went try getting an alignment but they said my driver left and rear left toe is impossible to adjust they tried adding penetrating liquid and couldn't release the nut/bolt on the rear and the front tie rod wouldn't budge. They said you'd need to add hardware to the quote as it's not just an alignment. Everything is too rusted and there is a risk if they try a torch to take the nut out they might brake something or not able to put nut back in...
What do you guys think? (I think the mixed the current and before measurement)

[Smac770]

Someone else recently posted about a shop not doing rear camber due to rust. They had been quoted some ridiculous repair cost. Which seemed odd since it's just a bolt (20), washer (21), and nut (6) for camber. Or bolt (11), washer (12), and nut (6) for toe.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a4.../5/505-505030/

I figure just buy new ones for those pieces and tell them to go to town on the old one. If it breaks, here's the new pieces to put in.

For the front toe, maybe PB blast it yourself for several days and see if it loosens up then? Wow, 80Nm torque spec for that nut. Guess mark the tie rod so if it turns with the nut, you can put it back where it belongs. Nice video on the front toe adjust by the Total Technik guys: https://youtu.be/SsPOtx8tguc?t=98

[featherman]

I recently replaced my rear toe links. I had to cut the bolts to get the old links out of the car-they were rusted and seized together. It was a cheap DIY, links, bolts and 18tpi sawzall blades but it was not quick or easy.

[SDF1]

Is the outer tie rod only 25-50$!!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-part...k0422817b~uro/
or
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-lemforde...g0423811a~lem/

Also something tells me it's not as easy to swap out a rod as this => https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCZ758rOzhk
This looks like something I can do in an hr but I have a feeling its going to be much much longer to do and things rusted and not wanting to move...

Time to order some liquid wrench for a few days and let it sink in while driving. This guy is awesome! lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

[Smac770]

Not sure what's up with Autodoc, they seem to get the torque specs wrong. Tie rod end locking nut is 80 Nm for B8.5 electro-mechanical and 60 Nm for B8.0 hydraulic, not 65 Nm. And not counter holding the ball joint while torquing the ball joint nut. And they must have stock in some copper spray company. But yeah, I can't think of much that's as easy to replace as the tie rod end.

Do keep in mind there's the A version and the B version of the 8K... tie rod ends, as well as different nuts for them. My Aug '08 build has the A version and the 6-pt collar nut. The B version uses the 12-pt combi nut. Looks like mid-Dec '08 was the change date. The 8K...B has replaced the 8K...A for R&R, but keep in mind the need for the different nut to go with B. The 4G... ends are for the B8.5 electro-mechanical rack, and use the same 12-pt as the 8K...B ends.

Project Farm is a great channel.

[SDF1]

Not sure what's up with Autodoc, they seem to get the torque specs wrong. Tie rod end locking nut is 80 Nm for B8.5 electro-mechanical and 60 Nm for B8.0 hydraulic, not 65 Nm. And not counter holding the ball joint while torquing the ball joint nut. And they must have stock in some copper spray company. But yeah, I can't think of much that's as easy to replace as the tie rod end.

Do keep in mind there's the A version and the B version of the 8K... tie rod ends, as well as different nuts for them. My Aug '08 build has the A version and the 6-pt collar nut. The B version uses the 12-pt combi nut. Looks like mid-Dec '08 was the change date. The 8K...B has replaced the 8K...A for R&R, but keep in mind the need for the different nut to go with B. The 4G... ends are for the B8.5 electro-mechanical rack, and use the same 12-pt as the 8K...B ends.

Project Farm is a great channel.

Thank you! I have an 2009, so I need to double check but it looks like I have Version A. If I get Version B would it make a difference? since I'm replacing the entire tie rod?
I have the 1BL = the adaptive suspension on non-sport springs. Suspension/shock absorption (ADS) suspension if that helps.

The car drives straight now with them able to adjust the front right toe. My question is it even worth doing an alignment with the current specs? I'm worried messing with it might bring in more problems. The age of the car and amount of rust.

Rear


Front 1


Front 2

[Smac770]

As I mentioned, if you do get new tie rod ends (tie rod to me is the shaft with the threads attached to the rack; maybe that's actually a different term in the general public) that are rev B, you'll need to get the 12pt combi nuts that go with B rather than the 6pt collar nuts that go with rev A. I imagine that tie rod nut can be freed with persistence. But that's a lot of crud in those threads. Or is that not crud, and actual corrosion or such?

The point of an alignment is to get the car to handle well with even tire wear. If you're getting those, I'd say the alignment purpose is fulfilled. That rear left toe is right on the line of in spec. Wow, that's a lot of rust back there.

What's up with the front left camber? That's not adjustable stock. Is something wrong with the control arms? Are they not able to do the subframe shift to at least balance the camber to the same each side?

[SDF1]

As I mentioned, if you do get new tie rod ends (tie rod to me is the shaft with the threads attached to the rack; maybe that's actually a different term in the general public) that are rev B, you'll need to get the 12pt combi nuts that go with B rather than the 6pt collar nuts that go with rev A. I imagine that tie rod nut can be freed with persistence. But that's a lot of crud in those threads. Or is that not crud, and actual corrosion or such?

The point of an alignment is to get the car to handle well with even tire wear. If you're getting those, I'd say the alignment purpose is fulfilled. That rear left toe is right on the line of in spec. Wow, that's a lot of rust back there.

What's up with the front left camber? That's not adjustable stock. Is something wrong with the control arms? Are they not able to do the subframe shift to at least balance the camber to the same each side?

I'm hoping if I clean the Tie Rod and keep adding penetrating fluid it will eventually get loose. When I asked them about the subframe shift the said they don't do that... Wish I can find a good mechanic here in Charlotte...

From my understanding if the subframe is shifted.
It would probably go from
Left Front -1.40 and Right Front -1.14
The best case scenario with lots of fiddiling woudl be
Left Front -0.98 and Right Front -0.72

So I'd never be able to get to 0.85 CENTER Camber but I'd be .13 degrees off both ways. Right now I'm...0.54 and 0.3 degrees off....
It is a 14 year old car, so I'm happy I don't have major issues :)

[Smac770]

The shift would add to the right whatever you took away from the left. So you'd go from -1°42' L and -1°11' R to roughly -1°26' L and R, which is just inside the shown spec range of -1°28'. So then it would be equal and within spec.

How did they end up jacking up the front right toe that badly? You might want to work on the tie rod lock nuts, see if you can get them freed up. Then take it somewhere else. Dealerships should certainly do the subframe shift as part of the alignment, there's a reason theirs is so expensive.

[SDF1]

The shift would add to the right whatever you took away from the left. So you'd go from -1°42' L and -1°11' R to roughly -1°26' L and R, which is just inside the shown spec range of -1°28'. So then it would be equal and within spec.

How did they end up jacking up the front right toe that badly? You might want to work on the tie rod lock nuts, see if you can get them freed up. Then take it somewhere else. Dealerships should certainly do the subframe shift as part of the alignment, there's a reason theirs is so expensive.

Audi estimated 800$ for the alignment before any parts.... Vw its 99$.

[Smac770]

estimated $800? wtf is that. It was always just $200 at the dealership (vs $100 or so at tire shop), that I recall. Obviously, whatever they can't loosen, they can't adjust. But $800 for an "alignment" is bs. Do you have ACC?

[SDF1]

estimated $800? wtf is that. It was always just $200 at the dealership (vs $100 or so at tire shop), that I recall. Obviously, whatever they can't loosen, they can't adjust. But $800 for an "alignment" is bs. Do you have ACC?

NO ACC.

[SDF1]

As I mentioned, if you do get new tie rod ends (tie rod to me is the shaft with the threads attached to the rack; maybe that's actually a different term in the general public) that are rev B, you'll need to get the 12pt combi nuts that go with B rather than the 6pt collar nuts that go with rev A. I imagine that tie rod nut can be freed with persistence. But that's a lot of crud in those threads. Or is that not crud, and actual corrosion or such?

The point of an alignment is to get the car to handle well with even tire wear. If you're getting those, I'd say the alignment purpose is fulfilled. That rear left toe is right on the line of in spec. Wow, that's a lot of rust back there.

What's up with the front left camber? That's not adjustable stock. Is something wrong with the control arms? Are they not able to do the subframe shift to at least balance the camber to the same each side?

I think i know why the subframe is off.
Audi rebuilt my engine then they gave up and swamped out the long block. They also changed the engine mounts a few times under warranty during the car's life. So im guessing they accidentally shifted if alittle.