Aluminum oil filter housing?

[80sGuy]

Noted

[quanttrom]

Any updates on this? I am very curious about any updates?

[RickV]

Hello, it's still good with no problems. I'm sure you saw the manufacturing issue with the oil hose connection so I'd recommend getting the silicone lower pcv hose that ECS tuning sells to make your life easy but other than that it's been a solid unit for me that I'm very happy with.

[tommyf]

Hi Ricky,

I have been experiencing the same issue with these stupid filters and this seems like the next logical step to take. I am wondering one thing though, what kind of power does your car make? Is it still stock or not anymore. The reason why I am asking this is is because I can have something to compare mine to when putting one of these on the car and trying it out.

[Jayz691]

Hi Ricky,

I have been experiencing the same issue with these stupid filters and this seems like the next logical step to take. I am wondering one thing though, what kind of power does your car make? Is it still stock or not anymore. The reason why I am asking this is is because I can have something to compare mine to when putting one of these on the car and trying it out.

What does engine power have to do with anything? Not understanding..

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[tommyf]

What does engine power have to do with anything? Not understanding..

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That's what I am trying to find out after having so many genuine and aftermarket oil filter housings fail.
I dont believe heat is the only issue here. It might be pressure that somehow builds up and breaks the gasket or seal between the filter and the engine.
One of the biggest indicators for this is that the filter doesn't leak while idling or on low boost. Only during extra load (higher revs, more boost etc) does it start to leak.
Therefore, my question :)

[80sGuy]

^^It doesn't matter if it's plastic or metal. As I mentioned before, sooner or later you're gonna have to deal with the o-ring gasket seals is what matters. But then again, heat does play a HUGE role in our cars which is also a contributing factor in premature wear on most plastic parts.

[Jayz691]

That's what I am trying to find out after having so many genuine and aftermarket oil filter housings fail.
I dont believe heat is the only issue here. It might be pressure that somehow builds up and breaks the gasket or seal between the filter and the engine.
One of the biggest indicators for this is that the filter doesn't leak while idling or on low boost. Only during extra load (higher revs, more boost etc) does it start to leak.
Therefore, my question :)

Oh, ok, gotcha. But power shouldn't affect anything. Do you have an oil pressure gauge by chance? If not, you should have one regardless, in these cars. Then you can see if you pressure is running within spec.
Crankcase pressure goes through the primary separator, which is on top of housing, but seperate from oil ports, etc. So excess blowby pressure wouldnt/shouldn't have any effect.

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[texasboy21]

I have some oil mixing the coolant and just pulled the trigger on this.. my fingers are crossed it fits well and is a more permanent solution bc changing this out every couple of years is for the birds.

[Plxa4q7]

Installed the aluminum oil filter housing from Amazon in my daughters 07 cabrio a few weeks ago. Fitment was good although one bolt hole seemed tight after loosely installing the other three bolts. Took some effort to get last bolt in. Thought about removing the housing and using Dremel to open up the bolt holes, but finally was able to get it. Once in and torqued it definitely feels solid. Also had to get the ECS Tuning silicone PCV hose kit as hose fitting for stock PCV hose wouldn’t fit, as others have mentioned previously. Retaining clips on stock hoses were broken anyway so good opportunity to upgrade. So far have put about 250 miles on the car and no leaks

[texasboy21]

Did you use the supplied gaskets or opt for OEM?

OEM gaskets cost more than the housing..

Is elring just as good?

[Jayz691]

Did you use the supplied gaskets or opt for OEM?

OEM gaskets cost more than the housing..

Is elring just as good?

Id use elring, 99% sure elring is OE.

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[Plxa4q7]

Did you use the supplied gaskets or opt for OEM?

OEM gaskets cost more than the housing..

Is elring just as good?

I used elring seals, and tossed the ones that were supplied with the housing

[Spetznaaz]

Cool, just make sure you don't over tighten the bottom cup onto the housing. There are 2 marks that you line up to know you've tightened it correctly. You shouldn't even need tools to do it. If you go much past those marks you put a lot of strain on the seal inbetween the housing and the engine which can cause it to leak. Line up the marks then leave it alone.

I found this out the hard way, had a leaking filter housing for a long time now. What i really don't understand is why do audi give a torque spec which results in it being overtightened. As i was writing that it just occurred to me - i've read about how oily / greasy bolts messes up torque spec.. Well it's obviously likely the housing threads are going to have some oil on them.. perhaps i've found my answer.

[RickV]

Yes it's very important to align those marks and not worry about torque specs. I feel that's the reason why the plastic housings give us so many problems is because we over tighten them.

[RickV]

I'm almost 4 months in with having the aluminum filter housing installed. Still no leaks and still no oil/coolant mixing. Still very happy with the purchase.

[Jayz691]

I'm almost 4 months in with having the aluminum filter housing installed. Still no leaks and still no oil/coolant mixing. Still very happy with the purchase.

Good to hear
Thanx for periodic updates.

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[Jayz691]

Yes it's very important to align those marks and not worry about torque specs. I feel that's the reason why the plastic housings give us so many problems is because we over tighten them.

I always just snug it up with a ratchet/socket. Last oil change i looked where its was, and the marks were aligned..

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[80sGuy]

What 'marks' are we talking about here on the oil filter housing in case I'm missing something?

[RickV]

What 'marks' are we talking about here on the oil filter housing in case I'm missing something?

When tightening, you stop when you start to feel a little tension and these marks are aligned. It usually won't feel reel tight when you are where you're supposed to be. I usually put a bright color reference mark on the bowl so it's easier to see.

[RickV]

Good to hear
Thanx for periodic updates.

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No problem at all. If I can be helpful in anyway to try to pay back all the help I received from you guys with my engine rebuild and swap I'm going to do it. The car is still running great thanks to all of you.

[80sGuy]

No problem at all. If I can be helpful in anyway to try to pay back all the help I received from you guys with my engine rebuild and swap I'm going to do it. The car is still running great thanks to all of you.

Oh okay. Yes I am ware of this. I thought you guys were talking about the 4 bolts (of the whole assembly) that goes in to the block.

[CameraMan7410]

did you use the gaskets that came with the housing or order new ones from ECS prior to install?

[RickV]

did you use the gaskets that came with the housing or order new ones from ECS prior to install?

I used the gasket that came with the housing. No problems with it yet

[CameraMan7410]

I just wanted to update I installed the aluminum filter housing from Amazon on my 08 A4, using the filter / gaskets that came with it.

About 1500 miles in so far with no leaks!

Also wanted to mention that my EGR breather tube installed on the Al housing without any modifications. not sure if they updated their design, or their manufacturing process missed a few bad ones, but mine was plug and play out of the box!

[Jayz691]

I just wanted to update I installed the aluminum filter housing from Amazon on my 08 A4, using the filter / gaskets that came with it.

About 1500 miles in so far with no leaks!

Also wanted to mention that my EGR breather tube installed on the Al housing without any modifications. not sure if they updated their design, or their manufacturing process missed a few bad ones, but mine was plug and play out of the box!

Good too hear
I take it ya mean the PCV hose.?

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[80sGuy]

Good to hear also.
I think he meant the hose that is tucked lower and route to the filter housing area. I know, there are two! The other is a slightly longer one that goes around and underneath from the oil filter housing area connecting (45°-degree angled) to the upper end of the PCV towards the firewall.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174368742770

[Jayz691]

Good to hear also.
I think he meant the hose that is tucked lower and route to the filter housing area. I know, there are two! The other is a slightly longer one that goes around and underneath from the oil filter housing area connecting (45°-degree angled) to the upper end of the PCV towards the firewall.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174368742770

Well the "lower pcv hose" is the one that had the issue. The aluminum housing had a lip inside, not allowing the hose to slide in far enough.

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[CameraMan7410]

Yeah, sorry for the confusion, yes, i meant the lower PCV hose that most folks had an issue with, with the lip not allowing it to lock into place. mine fit fine, no extra force to engage it or anything.

2000 miles so far, no leaks at all.

[Jayz691]

Yeah, sorry for the confusion, yes, i meant the lower PCV hose that most folks had an issue with, with the lip not allowing it to lock into place. mine fit fine, no extra force to engage it or anything.

2000 miles so far, no leaks at all.

Nice. Maybe they seen some feedback, and fixed it..

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[Rotibajan25]

Thanks guys, these Dremel bits worked really well. The fine grinding stone to take the hard edge off and then the abrasive polishing wheel to even it all out. I'm going to try to get it installed on Saturday. I'll post updates as I get them.

Your write up helped me significantly, so thanks very much.. I just wanted to add this..


I used a 7/16 LENOX saw drill bit first (nothing else fit better, was almost a perfect fit). I blocked the hole with paper toward the back innermost part of the hole so that drilled particles wouldn't fall inside and could fall out once I turned it on the side and I tapped the drilled particles out. I drilled (slowly, holding the drill firm and straight upright not to wobble around) all the way to the inner 2nd lip as you showed in your previous pics.

Then I used the grinding bit for my Dremel to smooth and level inside the hole, checking fitment each step of the way to make sure the hose fit perfectly snug all the way inside, up to the stop after the rubber gasket. Worked like a charm. bolted it all up and it fitted perfectly. I also replaced my oil cooler since it too was original from 2007 and had a small leak. Its a lot of work to redo the process of removal (plus wasted coolant and oil). Everything fitted great and no more leaks!!!

Why?, other than the dealer to make money on repairing these, where these metal housing not used from factory build was straight ridiculous. These were always the way to go.. Follow Rick's steps and these extra things and you won't regret it.. Bless Up!! Good Luck!!

[Rotibajan25]

This is a nice piece none the less.. If I had seen this when I bought my full metal one from ECS, I would have bought this instead.. next time.. thanks for the info..

[Jayz691]

This is a nice piece none the less.. If I had seen this when I bought my full metal one from ECS, I would have bought this instead.. next time.. thanks for the info..

Did ECS copy them already??
I dont see one on ECS website, only the filter holder..

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[Audi'sRevenge]

So I can confirm that the review on Amazon is accurate. The housing is manufactured with a flaw that doesn't allow the hose to go in all the way. As you can see in the pics there is a shoulder inside the pipe with a hard edge that shouldn't be there or should have been deeper in. It's very slight, probably chokes down the opening a half mm overall but it's enough. I have some tapered lathes that I am going to put in there and see if they will take that hard edge off without touching anything else. A dremel might work also but I'll try a lathe first.

The dremel worked good. I carefully removed that hard edge by putting a taper on it and the hose slides right in snug.

Thanks guys, these dremel bits worked really well. The fine grinding stone to take the hard edge off and then the abrasive polishing wheel to even it all out. I'm going to try to get it installed on Saturday. I'll post updates as I get them.

Your write up helped me significantly, so thanks very much.. I just wanted to add this..


I used a 7/16 LENOX saw drill bit first (nothing else fit better, was almost a perfect fit). I blocked the hole with paper toward the back innermost part of the hole so that drilled particles wouldn't fall inside and could fall out once I turned it on the side and I tapped the drilled particles out. I drilled (slowly, holding the drill firm and straight upright not to wobble around) all the way to the inner 2nd lip as you showed in your previous pics.

Then I used the grinding bit for my Dremel to smooth and level inside the hole, checking fitment each step of the way to make sure the hose fit perfectly snug all the way inside, up to the stop after the rubber gasket. Worked like a charm. bolted it all up and it fitted perfectly. I also replaced my oil cooler since it too was original from 2007 and had a small leak. Its a lot of work to redo the process of removal (plus wasted coolant and oil). Everything fitted great and no more leaks!!!

Why?, other than the dealer to make money on repairing these, where these metal housing not used from factory build was straight ridiculous. These were always the way to go.. Follow Rick's steps and these extra things and you won't regret it.. Bless Up!! Good Luck!!

I've recently bought this to replace the housing on my '13 TT-S.

Interestingly it seems the longitudinal engine has a different style of connector for that...connection. You guys don't seem to have the "cloverleaf" type retainer (man I absolutely hate those things BTW), but I do. I'm not sure how else to describe it other than "cloverleaf" so hopefully you get what I'm talking about. Otherwise I can post a pic.

Anyway, I read on an Amazon review that someone else was able to get his to fit by merely using different o-rings--slightly thinner as in similar ID but smaller OD. I tried this out and it almost worked... First of all it was indeed the o-rings in my case that were stopping my tube from going in. I removed one of them and then realised there's actually two (the cloverleaf thingy hides the black one--but on yours you can clearly see the two of them). So I removed both the O-rings and found the pipe seemed to just about fit, so I tried using the thinner o-rings and it almost made it but...

The damn cloverleaf collar thing at the end is ever so slightly larger than the base of the rest of the connector and that seems to hit on that ridge and therefore it prevents the cloverleaf retainer part from locking in around the exterior lip. I tried "just jamming it in" but yeah that doesn't seem like it's gonna work 😄 So I think I'm gonna just see if I can take it back a small bit with the Dremel, as you guys say, and then try with the same new o-rings and hopefully it seals.

In the case of the A4 you may be able to just use the thinner o-rings and not even have to modify it? That's seemingly what the one review on Amazon said, anyway. I'm kind of curious though, how does the pipe on the A4 secure into the port if it don't have the cloverleaf part?

[Jayz691]

Its does have the "cloveleaf" ends on the lower PCV hose. Maybe some brands don't..Screenshot_20240228-174520.jpg
And seems that issue is fixed now.
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[Audi'sRevenge]

Its does have the "cloveleaf" ends on the lower PCV hose. Maybe some brands don't..Screenshot_20240228-174520.jpg

Oh I see I was just going by the pictures that Rick had, which didn't show that type of end.

And seems that issue is fixed now.

You mean with the lip inside the port? On the Mitzone? Don't think so, I just got mine about a week ago now (ordered from Amazon) and it's still the same. Modding it shouldn't be too hard though, I think the different o-rings and a bit of Dremeling will do it.

I didn't attempt it today since it's super windy outside and not in any rush as the car is parked for the winter, I'm just doing 'off-season' work on it.

[Jayz691]

Those pics above seem to have the locking mechanism broken off, thats why.
And was going by the one guy above saying his fit fine.. Thought maybe they addressed the issue.

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[Audi'sRevenge]

Those pics above seem to have the locking mechanism broken off, thats why.
And was going by the one guy above saying his fit fine.. Thought maybe they addressed the issue.

Yeah I had read that and hoped so too but nah it's the same as everyone has been saying. Maybe that guy bought a different one or I got stock that was older than his--quite possible given these are Amazon warehoused and they have so many different warehouses and one may have different aged stock than another.

[Jayz691]

Yeah I had read that and hoped so too but nah it's the same as everyone has been saying. Maybe that guy bought a different one or I got stock that was older than his--quite possible given these are Amazon warehoused and they have so many different warehouses and one may have different aged stock than another.

Yeah, very possible..

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[Phil Audi B7]

I tried the Aluminum version but didn’t have much luck. Part of it was my fault though. When I put it in the gasket slipped out of the back and I didn’t see it. Started the car up and what a freakin mess.
Started to take it off and found that the bolts sunk into the soft aluminum. I had to drill one of the bolts out to get the oil filter housing out and reset the gasket. I had to do this 3 times and could never get a tight seal. Long story short l. I ended up stripping one of the bolt holes and had to go back to the OEM housing. Replaced the gasket and didn’t have any issues. The plastic version has brass threads which are stronger. If I ever do this again, I plan to tap the holes and put unicoils so I don’t strip the holes. If I recall the torque spec was around 10lbs.