Engine is Out!!! What next? - B8.5 2.0T Engine Upgrade/Rebuild

**Allowencer** · 11-05-2023 04:02 PM

I'm an old school style builder and I always use a bit of green loctite on all engine plugs. You'll prolly be fine though.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

**SNice** · 11-05-2023 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by Allowencer

I'm an old school style builder and I always use a bit of green loctite on all engine plugs. You'll prolly be fine though.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

Makes sense! This is my first true engine build so learning a lot and hoping I don’t make any mistakes I can’t fix! I had a couple of motorcycle projects that were supposed to be “practice” for this but I ended up leap-frogging over completing those and went straight to the “big project”. So far so good - but happy I’m only dealing with 4 cylinders! 6 or 8 could be a bit much…but maybe one day - let’s get through this one first! I’m already looking for 911’s that need motor work! 😂

**SNice** · 11-05-2023 04:33 PM

847A151B-8F90-4487-B368-EF8BC6FCDF5F.jpeg D1993A00-7014-4C58-9DF3-EB4AA2DACCE2.jpeg 2A777BB9-9D2C-4EE6-9DAB-EBA92E53A43D.jpeg 83AEB5A8-C2C4-479B-9441-0ABE9CFBFDC0.jpeg 8BBA02E3-272F-4E6A-BE3E-43BB107EB1DC.jpeg

Finally starting to look like my engine again!

**SNice** · 11-05-2023 05:40 PM

Turbo installed! I put the K04 back on for break in and just to be sure all is running well. I still have a few items to finish up on the EFR before it is ready to be installed.

2F30B88F-47E0-463A-9480-47003AF75482.jpeg

I owed the crank bolt an additional 95 degrees... I have the "10.9" crank bolt. Tightening spec is 100NM + 180. I needed to wait till I had it back on the stand to complete the 180!
E57A2827-E912-4342-A9A1-7FEB3005C694.jpeg CBCC8A40-7521-4D18-B502-7BF8D7C6AB85.jpeg

Placed the starter and connected the lower harness.
0D302BB6-FDA9-4B6F-9B4A-C4050CEF765E.jpeg

Cleaned and prepped the engine bay - ready for the engine to be dropped in!
D9E6CE22-8909-47BA-BA23-61061D89F9D4.jpeg

**Allowencer** · 11-05-2023 05:54 PM

Good luck with getting it back in with the front clip all there! You're brave to attempt this lol

I'm gonna contact you on the EFR

Sent from my SM-N976V using Audizine Forum mobile app

**SNice** · 11-05-2023 07:18 PM

Thanks!!! I think the key thing here is jacking up the transmission. With the transmission jacked up in the tunnel, you have the clearance to get the drive plate snout into the bell housing. Another necessary thing is the load leveler - which allows tilting of the engine as needed to get everything lined up. An extra set of hands also made this possible. My son was able to help guide the left side of the engine while I guided the right and controlled the descent.

Getting the snout of the drive plate to line up with the “pin” on the torque plate took some effort but once both engine mounts were lined up, everything mated up as it was supposed to. Being able to lower and raise the tranny a bit throughout the process also helped. Took about 15 minutes to get it in and ready to be bolted up!

I do wonder if the process is simplified because I have a ZF8 auto - I believe there may be extra steps with a manual. In any event - I’m over my fear of pulling the engine and could do it quickly and easily in the future! I’ll just need some new bolts!

4C1263A8-E2B4-47A4-95EA-EF1C7AE916D2.jpeg E46139BC-7993-4531-B708-2C1548FCC31E.jpeg 5540584F-2FE9-4386-9709-07B79678626B.jpg B5F34361-9941-4F2D-A2C2-E1A77E5C77D3.jpeg A15C7AD5-0F4C-4B71-91EE-1ED7C36D5658.jpeg

**SNice** · 11-10-2023 07:23 PM

Took the opportunity to do some paintwork.

In the past, I scratched up my engine bay removing and installing my turbo. A while ago I ordered some spray paint (touch up direct) to fix a few scratches on my bumper. Never did the bumper repair, so I still have the paint. I decided to test it out. It’s a pretty good match - just raw paint - no clear coat.
C8FE0BD8-B761-4DF4-BB1B-BDB70762BAB4.jpeg 6CF1E166-97A1-4B94-84FB-491C09638821.jpeg

Back to getting this engine back in…. I completed the wiring on the lower harness. Got it all back installed.
21428B05-F040-4EDB-BE0E-90E4A46B4777.jpeg 611D9BEA-6E4C-4A58-8EC0-4EE95A45A8F2.jpeg

Put the coolant back in! No leaks!!!
FB0E693F-140A-4500-9C6D-C10992707999.jpeg

Getting closer!!!

**SNice** · 11-10-2023 07:49 PM

Did a boost leak test. Found some leaks in my port meth connections on the intake manifold. I tightened them all up and got everything sealed as best as I could. I also found some leaks in my catch can setup. Handled them with some sealant but eventually I think I will need some catch cans that seal a little better. Will detail that in my catch can thread.
8799E4E5-1FBD-4A99-8168-B316AC44D885.jpeg 2FFF0900-9572-47EF-BFE3-FA6ECCC46155.jpeg

Got everything connected and finalized.
4E5D9C59-AEDF-455B-9401-A1052F1F0E24.jpeg 0A3E5A2F-6E01-41FB-9729-E635DC5E5765.jpeg

Disconnected the injectors (8-pin connector under the manifold) and the coils. Also took out the spark plugs. Cranked her over to get oil pressure. Monitored pressure with my oil pressure gauge. The gauge reads off the oil turbo supply. Not ideal placement but it gives me a reading. I was getting worried as it was taking a while to build pressure but once it did - it was all good!
20EB2E15-8BD9-4298-9FE9-399701FE9B81.jpeg

**SNice** · 11-11-2023 06:51 AM

Does anyone know what a ratchet sounds like spinning at 3000rpm??? Unfortunately I do!

The first start almost ended in disaster. I started the car with a ratchet still on the crank. Rookie move. Can’t believe I did that. I was in the zone. Excited, nervous, ready to start - and I got distracted by some traveling salesmen. Smh. In my excitement to get back to the project, I forgot I had a ratchet on the crank.
Started the car - she started right up! No hesitation. I locked down the accelerator at just under 3000rpm for the initial start procedure. Car is currently filled with amsoil sae 30 break-in oil. Anyway, I hear this rattling. I’m waiting for it to go away. It doesn’t. I get out and go to the front of the car only to discover my 1/2” ratchet spinning on the crank. I almost sh$t my pants and I ran back to the cabin to shut the car off.

I don’t know how I escaped disaster here -
But luckily no damage - At all. Radiator and fan were ok. Engine was ok - belt wasn’t touched - Even the ratchet was ok - wasn’t even warm.

Composed myself. Checked over everything again -
And started her up again to finish the initial start procedure. Smooth running, no funny noises. Phew. Took the car out for a spin to load up the rings a bit. Car feels great. No leaks so far. Need to get on the highway to complete the break in procedure. I really want to be aggressive with the break in because - remember - I did NOT do any honing to the cylinders. So we shall see how that goes. Need that boost to help seat the rings. So far so good though - no black smoke on acceleration and I’m not smelling weird exhaust fumes. Car is now a bit louder and has more growl.

Disaster averted…just lucky I didn’t have a breaker bar on there!

9A5C26B9-E0D6-43A1-B53A-BA2035E7F452.jpeg

20A29739-19C1-418D-8C5F-59A0D13E78AE.jpeg

D00C677F-E7FC-4C6C-934B-09D43B79B0FC.jpeg

**Allowencer** · 11-11-2023 07:01 AM

Hahhaha a helicopter ratchet! Laugh about it now bud. Nice work! Break it in properly. I do 25%-75% max RPM runs, 8 in a row. Once at 75%, let engine braking bring you back ton25% and repeat. Great final step in the break in process.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

**SNice** · 11-11-2023 07:30 AM

Originally Posted by Allowencer

Hahhaha a helicopter ratchet! Laugh about it now bud. Nice work! Break it in properly. I do 25%-75% max RPM runs, 8 in a row. Once at 75%, let engine braking bring you back ton25% and repeat. Great final step in the break in process.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

Thanks! Definitely- now I can laugh about it! Smh. Feels good though.

On your 25-75% runs are you gradually applying throttle or are you getting into boost?

Also looking forward to doing some logging so I can see some data!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**Allowencer** · 11-11-2023 09:59 AM

Originally Posted by SNice

Thanks! Definitely- now I can laugh about it! Smh. Feels good though.

On your 25-75% runs are you gradually applying throttle or are you getting into boost?

Also looking forward to doing some logging so I can see some data!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

Full throttle up to 75%. Engine brake back down to 25% and slam it back to 75%.

That's after you do varying loads for like 20ish miles, easing into 4k RPMs as you go deeper in the mileage.

I do this for all builds, unless it's a race style with very specific rings. Always go by the ring manufacture specs.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Audizine Forum mobile app

**SNice** · 11-12-2023 06:45 AM

Didn’t make it too far into the “pulls”. On the second one, I popped a charge pipe off. At first I thought it was catastrophic failure but then I looked at my boost gauge and it wouldn’t go above 0. Didn’t have my wrench to secure the hose back on so I had to limp it home. Car is no fun in NA mode without boost!!! Other than that - so far so good.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**apeck240** · 11-12-2023 06:46 AM

Originally Posted by SNice

Didn’t make it too far into the “pulls”. On the second one, I popped a charge pipe off. At first I thought it was catastrophic failure but then I looked at my boost gauge and it wouldn’t go above 0. Didn’t have my wrench to secure the hose back on so I had to limp it home. Car is no fun in NA mode without boost!!! Other than that - so far so good.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

The drive home after doing my valve springs, it popped the pcv hose off and did that. Shit my whole pants, do not recommend

Have also left a ratchet on a crank pulley more times than I'd like, great news as long as it's anything but a Honda it'll just freely ratchet if you were in the tightening position

**Allowencer** · 11-12-2023 07:36 AM

Originally Posted by apeck240

The drive home after doing my valve springs, it popped the pcv hose off and did that. Shit my whole pants, do not recommend

Hahahhaha I bet!

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

**SNice** · 11-21-2023 03:56 PM

So far so good. Still in the “break-in” period. Car feels like it’s running better than ever. Did some logging today and captured a quick 3rd gear pull. She didn’t skip a beat. No hesitation. Pulled all the way to redline…. Tyler!!!! Might be time to turn it up!!!!!!?????

IMG_1624.jpg

**Jason11213** · 11-22-2023 09:40 AM

Originally Posted by SNice

So far so good. Still in the “break-in” period. Car feels like it’s running better than ever. Did some logging today and captured a quick 3rd gear pull. She didn’t skip a beat. No hesitation. Pulled all the way to redline…. Tyler!!!! Might be time to turn it up!!!!!!?????

IMG_1624.jpg

Is this with the EFR?

**apeck240** · 11-22-2023 09:45 AM

Originally Posted by Jason11213

Is this with the EFR?

270gs at gate pressure, it sure looks like it. For sure ain't stock lol

**SNice** · 11-22-2023 10:15 AM

Originally Posted by apeck240

270gs at gate pressure, it sure looks like it. For sure ain't stock lol

Nope! That’s the CTS K04 (1070)!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**Jason11213** · 11-22-2023 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by SNice

Nope! That’s the CTS K04 (1070)!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

Nice! Is the EFR ready to go in? Did you get the actuator bracket fab’d?

**SNice** · 11-22-2023 11:31 AM

Originally Posted by Jason11213

Nice! Is the EFR ready to go in? Did you get the actuator bracket fab’d?

Almost there! I have to weld the seam on the bracket (where I bent it) and add a vband connection to the HFC.
While I had the engine out, I confirmed all connections and fittings so should be good to go on that front. The last piece of the puzzle will be the final intake connections. I will wait until I get it mounted for that. My goal is to be able to keep my current intake and make adjustments to make it fit.

Still kicking myself for not grabbing one of those “prototype” iconel APR inlet/manifold kits when they were up for grabs!

IMG_1230.jpg IMG_1228.jpg IMG_1226.jpg IMG_1223.jpg IMG_1222.jpg

**Jayz691** · 11-24-2023 09:00 AM

Originally Posted by apeck240

270gs at gate pressure, it sure looks like it. For sure ain't stock lol

Says almost 2.4 bar boost. Which even if its includes atmosphere, its like 1.5bar(21-22psi). Not bad, i got 250-255g's with same turbo, on my b7.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Audizine Forum mobile app

**apeck240** · 11-24-2023 09:03 AM

Originally Posted by Jayz691

Says almost 2.4 bar boost. Which even if its includes atmosphere, its like 1.5bar(21-22psi). Not bad, i got 250-255g's with same turbo, on my b7.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Audizine Forum mobile app

Yes that's absolute, and yes yours is also not the stock size turbo

**SNice** · 11-25-2023 03:00 PM

A few more images of third gear pull logs from today.... I turned off autoshift to get some higher revs...

3GPull_PostRebuild_C_112523.jpg
3GPull_PostRebuild_B_112523.jpg
3GPull_PostRebuild_A_112523.jpg

**SNice** · 03-22-2024 07:59 AM

Well, it’s been a while since I checked in here…. In this case, no news is good news!

I got through the brake in period with the brake in oil. I kept it in for about the first 500 miles. No issues and glad I did it. In all honesty, I was really on the fence about using brake in oil and assembly lube on this build. I ended up using both and very glad I did!

The first few oil changes came out clean - very clean - the break in oil still had a red color - and no metal chunks or foreign objects!

My only “issues” appear to be slight oil leaks. I get a few drips of oil at the front of the car. I thought I had a leak at the dipstick tube. Changed out the tube and the leak is still there. I now believe it is coming from the crank seal. I did not check the crank seal on the aftermarket timing cover that I installed - perhaps it wasn’t seated or maybe it was defective.I also installed an aftermarket crank pulley (fluidampr). Maybe the combination of the two has caused a leak. Nevertheless, I have an Audi brand crank seal and crank pulley bolt on the way.

Hopefully I can replace the seal without going into service position. I really hope this is the cause of my oil leak! There is also a slight oil moisture where the trans meets the engine. Really hoping that is blowback from the front leak and not a RMS leak! I check in the inspection cover and there is no oil pooling in there.

Other than the small leaks, car is running beautifully. Tailpipes stay (relatively) clean, no misfires, engine pulls strong, and oil pressures are within spec. No codes, and I haven’t had to reset the check engine light due to heavy pulls since the rebuild! It used to throw a CAT sensor code after a heavy pull/aggressive driving. Looking forward to the weather breaking so I can get back out there and get the EFR installed!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**Theiceman** · 03-22-2024 04:45 PM

all great news !! . I have zero leaks and my engine looks like crap from rust I vote leave it lol .

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

**StuckAntichris** · 03-23-2024 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by SNice

My only “issues” appear to be slight oil leaks. I get a few drips of oil at the front of the car. I thought I had a leak at the dipstick tube. Changed out the tube and the leak is still there. I now believe it is coming from the crank seal. I did not check the crank seal on the aftermarket timing cover that I installed - perhaps it wasn’t seated or maybe it was defective.I also installed an aftermarket crank pulley (fluidampr). Maybe the combination of the two has caused a leak. Nevertheless, I have an Audi brand crank seal and crank pulley bolt on the way.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

I ended up with an oil leak after rebuilding my engine from the gasket where the oil filter housing bolts to the block, the part that the alternator and AC compressor bolt to. Did you use a Febi gasket there by chance? Both engines I rebuilt leaked from there and both used a Febi gasket.

Bought the OE gasket and I'm all good now.

Hope your leak gets taken care of!

Just a thought

**SNice** · 03-23-2024 02:44 PM

Originally Posted by StuckAntichris

I ended up with an oil leak after rebuilding my engine from the gasket where the oil filter housing bolts to the block, the part that the alternator and AC compressor bolt to. Did you use a Febi gasket there by chance? Both engines I rebuilt leaked from there and both used a Febi gasket.

Bought the OE gasket and I'm all good now.

Hope your leak gets taken care of!

Just a thought

Before the rebuild, I did have a very slow leak from there. I did replace it with an OE gasket! Ironically, the only non OE gasket/seals I used on the rebuild were on the crankshaft and the RMS. Smh. The crankshaft seal came pre installed on the aftermarket lower timing cover. I should have checked it prior to installation!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**JLAllroad** · 03-23-2024 09:55 PM

You guys were making me question what I used……this is probably not where I would be trying to save money, not worthwhile….although there are worse gaskets to have to replace.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...udi-06j115441a

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**Theiceman** · 03-27-2024 06:23 PM

on my build I had no leaks there so didnt touch it

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

**Allowencer** · 03-30-2024 05:13 PM

I only use VW/Audi gaskets. Sure I pay more, but I know what I'm getting each time.

I run a Fluidampr and have ZERO issues. It MUST be installed properly or it can rip up the seal. Many people over the years (posted on this forum) have torn seals and all blamed the Fluidampr. Hate to say it, it was installer error.

If you have some oil from the rear of the block, I'm going to ask, how is your PCV setup? What are you using, running?

**SNice** · 03-30-2024 05:36 PM

Originally Posted by Allowencer

I only use VW/Audi gaskets. Sure I pay more, but I know what I'm getting each time.

I run a Fluidampr and have ZERO issues. It MUST be installed properly or it can rip up the seal. Many people over the years (posted on this forum) have torn seals and all blamed the Fluidampr. Hate to say it, it was installer error.

If you have some oil from the rear of the block, I'm going to ask, how is your PCV setup? What are you using, running?

Yeah. Kicking myself. The only non Audi branded seal I used is that crank seal (and the 034 RMS). But I think the oil/wetness at the rear is actually spray/splash from the forward leak and under tray.

The crank seal was an oversight. I bought the lower timing cover (with seal installed) around early 2020 with all my other timing components. Needless to say, they all sat for a while. But the lower timing cover was aftermarket - and it came with the seal installed. When I finally got around to installing it (the rebuild). I never checked it. Smh.

So I think it was either unseated or just a bad seal.

I?ll know soon - today I pulled off the bumper and put the front carrier into service position. Tomorrow I will get to the seal and see what we have!

My pcv is stock but due for a change. I?ll probably swap in the new one I have while doing the crank seal.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**Allowencer** · 03-31-2024 05:39 AM

Good to hear on the stock PCV. I support catch cans but everyone but ECS hurts the PCV system on our cars. The line from the PCV valve to the IM must be retained/used. I'm going to figure out a way to get a catch can on that circuit.

I support the 034 RMS. I was thoroughly impressed when I got it and installed it. As long as you properly follow the directions AND visually check the seal seated properly, by also rotating the crank to verify, you should be good to go. I'm running the 034 RMS on my latest build.

If it's just your front seal, easy in the grand scheme to fix up; good luck!

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

**SNice** · 03-31-2024 07:12 AM

Originally Posted by Allowencer

Good to hear on the stock PCV. I support catch cans but everyone but ECS hurts the PCV system on our cars. The line from the PCV valve to the IM must be retained/used. I'm going to figure out a way to get a catch can on that circuit.

I support the 034 RMS. I was thoroughly impressed when I got it and installed it. As long as you properly follow the directions AND visually check the seal seated properly, by also rotating the crank to verify, you should be good to go. I'm running the 034 RMS on my latest build.

If it's just your front seal, easy in the grand scheme to fix up; good luck!

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

Completely agree with you on the PCV. Once I found out how it works - I couldn?t understand the benefit to disabling portions of it. So?. I put together a dual catch can setup that retains full function of the PCV and basically pulls more oil out of the passing charge on both sides.

I?ve had it in over a year - through winter too - and it works great. I just took my charge pipes off for the crank seal and they are oil free.

Right now the weak point in the dual catch can system is that the catch can on the IM side sees full boost. I think I can solve that with a check valve.

I have the metal intake manifold - but the setup would actually be easier for those with the plastic one - you just need to insert the catch can into that hose.

I?ve detailed my setup here:
http://Dual Catch Can Experiment…cou...d.php?t=963267

Dual Catch Can Experiment…couldn??

t resist.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=963267

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**SNice** · 04-04-2024 07:08 PM

This past weekend I dove into the crank seal issue?
TLDR: That was my issue - crank seal was leaking; also realized it was causing a vacuum leak. Swapped out the crank seal - no more leak and engine is running smoother than ever!

?for those that want to dive into the details - continue below!
First thing I did was put my car into service position. I?ve had the engine out and done a ton of work on this car and this was the first time I have ever put it in service position. I don?t know what I was so afraid of. It was super easy to do and took all of about 10mins.
41617A71-6085-4D1F-A1EC-30F3756EBB2D.jpeg

After removing my charge pipes from the intercooler - I was very happy to see that my catch cans have been doing their job!
27836090-0EEE-453A-8D2F-1F573C780D67.jpeg 0BCE5DB7-95B2-4C44-8B61-54D64C977377.jpeg

In the images below, the leak can be seen. The lower timing cover below the crank pulley is wet with oil. I previously thought this was my dipstick tube leaking.
4AAA6AB6-7A61-40D7-9E79-4678AEC4122A.jpeg
What keyed me into honing in on the crank seal was that the rest of the lower timing cover was spattered with an oil mist. 5A37575F-B9DF-452B-8234-4E45E8576C08.jpeg
The back edge of the accessory belt also had some oil residue on it.

In any event, service position made access a breeze and was definitely worth the effort.

Got the fluidampr off and revealed the crank seal.
EA92BD3C-222B-4551-AF91-85EE0C415AA6.jpeg
Pulled the seal out with a seal puller. I was very careful not to destroy the seat in the lower timing cover. 7358E7C0-8F0A-4D75-89CD-42F24EAAB3AC.jpeg

Comparison of new and old seal. Also pictured is the seal installer out of the timing chain kit I have.
000AB8D5-A75F-4194-B259-EFFD26F3BEDA.jpeg

Installed the new seal (Audi branded) along with a new crank bolt.
8065B51A-706D-4196-A96D-131BD3240E27.jpeg
A66CC2E5-0BC6-421B-ACFC-EF9E16521492.jpeg

Wiped everything down, put the front end back together and was good to go!
I definitely had a vacuum leak. Upon startup, engine idles much smoother - no more vibration. I previously thought I needed a new pcv. Over the past few days I?ve been getting into boost - no leaks so far.

**Theiceman** · 04-04-2024 08:00 PM

getting the torque spec on that crank bolt is a real treat isn't it. lol.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

**SNice** · 04-04-2024 08:15 PM

Originally Posted by Theiceman

getting the torque spec on that crank bolt is a real treat isn't it. lol.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

It is! Lol. But it was definitely easier with the engine in the car in service position. I was able to use the frame rail as the hold. It was much harder the first time around when I had the engine on the stand!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**Theiceman** · 04-05-2024 04:27 AM

Originally Posted by SNice

It is! Lol. But it was definitely easier with the engine in the car in service position. I was able to use the frame rail as the hold. It was much harder the first time around when I had the engine on the stand!

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

agreed I took my engine off the stand strapped it to some 4 by 4s on the ground.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

**SNice** · 05-14-2024 06:52 AM

The crankshaft seal replacement solved my leak! Happy to say I am leak free now!

Weather has gotten warmer so e-85 is back in season. Filled 1/2 tank with e85 and achieved an e45 blend. Engine ran smooth as expected.

Turned on the water-meth system. Intake temps came down and car felt snappy as ever!

It seems my engine affairs are all in order - the rebuild went well! I think it is time to get back to making progress on what is next!
- Need to learn how to tig weld (seriously - committed to DIY) so I can finally get the EFR on.
- Looking into putting on larger brakes due to a recent rabbit hole I fell in. I’ve got some 4M q7 calipers on the way - will see what I can do with them.
- Sway bars - would like to upgrade at least the rear.

Summer’s here so time to open my driveway workshop! :)

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

**Allowencer** · 05-15-2024 11:37 AM

I do NOT torque down the crank bolt unless it's in the car. Much more support. Engines I build, I let them know this too and either let them borrow my holder or it goes to the shop that installs them and they know I don't torque it down. Not worth breaking something and having a very nice engine fall on it's face (well, oil pan).