Audi A4 3.slow Cam Pulley Seal install

[shurur9]

Ok folks..me again...

So now I am on the last part of my comprehensive timing belt job.

I have:
1. Locked the cams
2. Pinned the crank.
3. Replaced the crank seal
4. Reinstalled belt just for loosening the cam pulley bolts.

Now I want to replace the cam seals, before finishing the timing belt.

I find no manual, instructions or videos about doing this.

I don't even know where the seals go or what the cam socket is used for.
I don't know what I am going to see when I get the pulley off

This is what I think I am going to do.

1. Loosen all cam bolts 1-4
2. Unlock ends of cams with cam sockets
3. Remove cam pullies.
4. Install seals and put on pullies
5. Lock cams with cam socket.
6. Tighten cam pulley bolts, leaving them loose for timing belt install.
7. Install timing belt and and components.
8. Remove cam locks and crank pin.
9. Turn engine manually to check proper install.

Q: Do I need to even do anything with the cam socket at all?

Any videos or threads would be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[john_gonzo]

Which cam seals do you have? Are they O-rings (item 13) or metal donuts with a flexible inner lip (item 7A)?

[john_gonzo]

Here's how to use that special socket for the camshaft:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post11149239

[shurur9]

Which cam seals do you have? Are they O-rings (item 13) or metal donuts with a flexible inner lip (item 7A)?

Saving my ass again I see..Thanks.

#7A

It looks like I am just removing the cam pulley bolts and slipping off the pullies....?
Then sliding on the cam seals with the plastic install ring for the teflon seals.
And not even doing anything with the cam socket...unless the socket unlocks the cam pulleys from the cam?

I may get the caps and rings (#14) as well.

Rain today. So today is for strategizing..

[shurur9]

Here's how to use that special socket for the camshaft:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post11149239

The title says crankshaft seal, so I never looked at it...thanks

[Turbo510]

4. Reinstalled belt just for loosening the cam pulley bolts.

Now I want to replace the cam seals, before finishing the timing belt.

The cam locks are what allows you to loosen the cam pulley bolts, not the belt, so not a necessary step in my opinion. Are the cam seals leaking? If not, I'd skip that, unless you want this job to be really comprehensive as you say. Some timing belt kits include all of those seals; I've got some in a tub of spare parts, but my ol' 2005 has 285K miles on the original (non-leaking) seals.

[shurur9]

The cam locks are what allows you to loosen the cam pulley bolts, not the belt, so not a necessary step in my opinion. Are the cam seals leaking? If not, I'd skip that, unless you want this job to be really comprehensive as you say. Some timing belt kits include all of those seals; I've got some in a tub of spare parts, but my ol' 2005 has 285K miles on the original (non-leaking) seals.

Just so I understand what you are saying.
The cam locks are the tool that clamps that lock the cam, and keep the cams locked to loosen the cams.
If that is what you are saying, I get that.

88888
I guess I just need to know what the Cam socket tool has to do with removing the cam pullies in order to do the seals.

I don't understand or know what that cam socket is doing, or what its function is in general, AND how it is involved in the cam seal job.

I am hoping that I am just going to loosen remove the cam bolts and the pullies, replace the seals and rebolt the cam pullies (loose), then continue with the belt install.

Thanks

[Cybersombosis]

The cam socket is used for putting tension on the belt via the cam gear while buttoning things up. It is not used to remove or put on anything. You never want to remove the cam locks until the belt is back on and tensioner properly. You can torque all your cam and crank bolts to spec with all the locking tools in place.

[Turbo510]

Just so we are all on the same page, the 3.0 timing set includes a 3/8" drive "socket", which is more of a key to pre-position the exhaust cam's hydraulic units. Once the belt is on and pre-tensioned, but before tightening the cam bolts (around 70 lb-ft), that tool fits over each exhaust cam bolt I believe, engaged with a matching part of the adjuster, and turned clockwise until it stops.

The tool which pre-tensions the belt is the pin-wrench, used to rotate the roller with the off-center bolt hole. With that tool engaged in the two pin holes of the roller's hub, the hub is rotated until the wrench points at the center of the water pump's pulley, then the roller's bolt is torqued.

[Turbo510]

Shurur9, I sent you a PM regarding a section of the manual that I can email to you (or by PM, if a PDF file if it can be sent that way).

[shurur9]

Ok, the cam sprockets cam off with the removal of the cam bolts. Nothing complicated.

I replaced the seals with the teflon seals by using the plastic sleeve that came with one of the seals and gave each cam pulley sprocket a couple of spins to set the lips of the seal.
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The next day after I got the seals in, I installed the TB+. It seemed that something was interfering as I manually cranked it......

I Slept on it and came to the brilliant idea this AM that I had left the car in gear when I installed the crank bolt!

Mission accomplished.

Now on to the motor mounts and coolant pipe seals.

I learned a lot of good stuff.

Thanks again many times over to ALL!