Any way to know if a DSG service has been performed?

[S4orceAudi]

Had my S4 a few months now and from what I can tell it was very well cared for. No service history came along with it. Just wanted to see if there is any way to tell if a DSG service has been performed. Car is at 51k.

[Nillious]

The only way I can think of is to maybe ask a dealer or the original owner. They can see if a car was serviced by vin. Obviously they can’t see outside service but most people who buy these cars have them serviced at a dealership. As far as if they are willing to give you the information free of charge or at all is up to them.

[SwankPeRFection]

With only 51k miles, I doubt it. If they did it would have been around 30-35k. I’d do it for peace of mind and change both filters and then you’re set for a while.

[akop18]

With only 51k miles, I doubt it. If they did it would have been around 30-35k. I’d do it for peace of mind and change both filters and then you’re set for a while.

I'm kind of in the same boat as OP...whats the level of difficulty to change filters and trans and diff fluid?

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[SwankPeRFection]

I'm kind of in the same boat as OP...whats the level of difficulty to change filters and trans and diff fluid?

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Not very if you’re mechanically inclined. If you don’t work on cars, then it probably won’t be. The B8.5 cars have an easily accessible cooler line filter that’s cartridge based on the outside (similar in design to the oil filter setup on the engine) and Audi usually only swaps out this filter, so it’s drain, change filter and fill back up. The small issue is you have to hood up a diagnostic tool to read DSG fluid temp when filling it so that it’s at the right level vs temp before you button it up. There’s a write up for it. If you want to do the service properly and guarantee long DSG life, you should also do the internal filter in the pan, which will require pan removal and a new gasket, etc. If you’re scared to mess anything up, go and get it done but tell the dealership to change the internal filter as well. They’ll tell you it’ll be extra and it’s not required, but that’s typical bs. FYI, FCP Euro and other places have DSG service kits you can buy for a lot less than what the dealership will charge. You can always buy your supplies that way and have them just do the labor. If you go to an independent, MAKE SURE they know what they’re doing on these cars. If they’ve not regularly worked on them, they will generally fuck shit up. Just a fair warning.

[SwankPeRFection]

Is also wanted to add to this. If anyone has a 2010 B8 that doesn’t have the cartridge based cooler line filter, YOU STILL NEED to at some point change out that filter too, which this one is a bit different an a bit hard to find cheaply. You can generally squeeze about 100k out of it before it needs changing, but you still need to change it as eventually you’ll get to a point where the DSG will start acting weird a tiny bit and no amount of fluid change or internal filter change will cause a lasting fix. That’s the telltale sign this filter needs to be changed ASAP. Again change it every 75k or 100k. If you just happened to buy a used 2010 S4, change it regardless of the mileage on it.

[akop18]

Is also wanted to add to this. If anyone has a 2010 B8 that doesn’t have the cartridge based cooler line filter, YOU STILL NEED to at some point change out that filter too, which this one is a bit different an a bit hard to find cheaply. You can generally squeeze about 100k out of it before it needs changing, but you still need to change it as eventually you’ll get to a point where the DSG will start acting weird a tiny bit and no amount of fluid change or internal filter change will cause a lasting fix. That’s the telltale sign this filter needs to be changed ASAP. Again change it every 75k or 100k. If you just happened to buy a used 2010 S4, change it regardless of the mileage on it.

Ya I do pretty much everything myself, or have so far anyway. It doesn't sound too complicated. I have VCDS so I believe I can monitor temps via VCDS if I'm not mistaken? I'm comfortable doing it myself, however this will be first transmission thing I do on this car so I want to make sure I thoroughly understand the process before I pull the trigger and do it. I don't see a DSG service record anywhere so I'm going to do it very soon I think, even though transmission seems to be working great ATM. As far as filling the fluid, I thought I remember coming across something about how filling it is tricky given where the fill plug is or something along those lines.

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[SwankPeRFection]

Ya I do pretty much everything myself, or have so far anyway. It doesn't sound too complicated. I have VCDS so I believe I can monitor temps via VCDS if I'm not mistaken? I'm comfortable doing it myself, however this will be first transmission thing I do on this car so I want to make sure I thoroughly understand the process before I pull the trigger and do it. I don't see a DSG service record anywhere so I'm going to do it very soon I think, even though transmission seems to be working great ATM. As far as filling the fluid, I thought I remember coming across something about how filling it is tricky given where the fill plug is or something along those lines.

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Yes, you can use VCDS. You should be fine then from the sounds of it. When you do it, loosen the fill plug first before anything else to make sure you’re good. The filling is also simple. Go to Home Depot or wherever and get yourself one of those spray bottles with the pump on it. Take it home and wipe inside and make sure it’s new and there’s no debris in it. Cut the wand short and take the nozzle off (you don’t need to spray in a pattern, just stream out). Pour your DSG fluid in that and pump to pressurize. Then go with the tip in the fill hole and spray in. It’s no different than if you got one of those pressurized brake bleeders, same concept, except you don’t have to screw in the full hole to keep it pressurized. The key thing is to make sure it’s clean and don’t use it for any other fluid other than DSG fluid for these services, as the trans is sensitive to other fluid contaminations. Follow the factory instructions for bolting the pan back up and the sequence. Good luck.

[akop18]

Yes, you can use VCDS. You should be fine then from the sounds of it. When you do it, loosen the fill plug first before anything else to make sure you’re good. The filling is also simple. Go to Home Depot or wherever and get yourself one of those spray bottles with the pump on it. Take it home and wipe inside and make sure it’s new and there’s no debris in it. Cut the wand short and take the nozzle off (you don’t need to spray in a pattern, just stream out). Pour your DSG fluid in that and pump to pressurize. Then go with the tip in the fill hole and spray in. It’s no different than if you got one of those pressurized brake bleeders, same concept, except you don’t have to screw in the full hole to keep it pressurized. The key thing is to make sure it’s clean and don’t use it for any other fluid other than DSG fluid for these services, as the trans is sensitive to other fluid contaminations. Follow the factory instructions for bolting the pan back up and the sequence. Good luck.

You're just talking a normal spray bottle right? Ya I have one of those hand pumps for brakes, the hardware store has them for real cheap would I be better off going that route or is a spray bottle better? And then could you explain to me the filling process, in other words how do I make sure I get the proper amount of fluid in there and the fluid temp you mentioned previously? I just went and did some quick reading and oddly enough it seems like the fluid amount for people have varied so I'm wondering how that would be possible if we all have the same DSG.

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[SwankPeRFection]

There’s a DSG maintenance thread with step by steps you need to read through. It’s already been documented.

And no, I’m talking about something like this.

[SwankPeRFection]

I just went and did some quick reading and oddly enough it seems like the fluid amount for people have varied so I'm wondering how that would be possible if we all have the same DSG.

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It’s never dead on exact. There are lines that go all the way up to the front radiator, that fluid won’t always drain out. The quick and dirty is. Drain the fluid, take the pan off, replace pickup filter and clean pan and magnets in it. Put a new gasket on and put the pan back on. Fill the trans until fluid overflows from the full hole and put the bolt back on but don’t tighten to spec yet. Turn the car on and while on the brake, flip through the different gears to prime all the passages in the trans a few times, leaving it in each gear for a few seconds each time. Turn the car off. Fill again until it flows out and out the bolt back in. Hook up VCDS and monitor DSG fluid temp and when it gets close to whatever it’s supposed to be at per the spec (I forget exactly and I have to look it up each time). Undo the fill bold and let it drip out as it’s running in Park. Between the called upon temp reading, put the plug back in. If you did it right, you’ll be putting the plug back in while it’s still trying to drip out a little because the hotter it gets the more it’ll push out. You have to catch it in a specific temp range. That’s pretty much the gist of it.

Biggest thing to remember is if you’re doing this on stands, the car has to be on 4 stands and perfectly horizontal to get appropriate levels in there.

[akop18]

There’s a DSG maintenance thread with step by steps you need to read through. It’s already been documented.

And no, I’m talking about something like this.

Oh ok I appreciate that photo lol cuz I did not realize that is what you were talking about...but now in hindsight it makes perfect sense. Ya I will make sure I find the thread and just go step by step. I really appreciate the help man, you've given me the confidence to tackle this.

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[SwankPeRFection]

Oh, one last thing. Do not put it on ramps or have it sitting on the tires even if it’s elevated on something, like blocks. In order to take the pan off you have to take the factory chassis brace or alu kreuz (for me) off. This shouldn't be done with the weight of the car being on the front wheels/tires. Just FYI.

I guess you could back up on some ramps for the back wheels and then jack up the fronts and place on jack stands, but just make sure it’s level.

[S4orceAudi]

Thanks everyone I’m just going to have a full service done.

[frankinstyyn]

I did this the other week on mine. It’s was actually even more simple than I thought.

I read so many guides and watched all the videos.

Make sure that you check the fill plug first, if that breaks or doesn’t come out, you’ll have no chance.

As for the fluid level, you literally can’t fill it past the fill hole so when refilling, start the car, go through all the gears once or twice (foot on the break), leave running for 5 minutes or so, then car off and refill until fluid comes out. That’s it

[akop18]

I did this the other week on mine. It’s was actually even more simple than I thought.

I read so many guides and watched all the videos.

Make sure that you check the fill plug first, if that breaks or doesn’t come out, you’ll have no chance.

As for the fluid level, you literally can’t fill it past the fill hole so when refilling, start the car, go through all the gears once or twice (foot on the break), leave running for 5 minutes or so, then car off and refill until fluid comes out. That’s it

Ya with every post and thread I read it's giving me more confidence to tackle this. I've done alot myself on this car and cars in the past but just usually was a little timid of transmission stuff. Did you change out both filters as well? Is the filter inside the pan pretty straight forward?

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[LowKeyLoki]

Yea pan is pretty straight forward, I’d go ahead and change internal filter as well, make sure to buy the small o ring that sits on the + on top of the strainer, it helps to keep it clean n place when putting the pan back on. And install the orange o ring dry to help keep the strainer in place. You will really need VCDS or similar to run through all the adaptations after refilling the trans.

[akop18]

Yea pan is pretty straight forward, I’d go ahead and change internal filter as well, make sure to buy the small o ring that sits on the + on top of the strainer, it helps to keep it clean n place when putting the pan back on. And install the orange o ring dry to help keep the strainer in place. You will really need VCDS or similar to run through all the adaptations after refilling the trans.

Ya the kit of FCP or Uro seems to have everything would need. Both filters, fluid, o rings, etc. I got VCDS, what adaptations do you have to run it through? I had planned on using it to see the trans fluid temps to get proper fluid level, what else do I need it for?

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[frankinstyyn]

Ya with every post and thread I read it's giving me more confidence to tackle this. I've done alot myself on this car and cars in the past but just usually was a little timid of transmission stuff. Did you change out both filters as well? Is the filter inside the pan pretty straight forward?

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Nice! You should be pretty confident with this as well then!

The internal filter is surprisingly easy; it’s literally a push, just make sure the orange o-ring comes out with the old filter, if it’s not on the end, it’ll be stuck in housing.

When replacing the gasket, just give the trans pan a realllly good clean and change the magnets. Someone’s mentioned a kit, they have everything you need, mine cost £150 - so about $170 or so from eBay! Amazing.

I know people always say you need to check the temps etc, I didn’t and everything went smoothly

[akop18]

Nice! You should be pretty confident with this as well then!

The internal filter is surprisingly easy; it’s literally a push, just make sure the orange o-ring comes out with the old filter, if it’s not on the end, it’ll be stuck in housing.

When replacing the gasket, just give the trans pan a realllly good clean and change the magnets. Someone’s mentioned a kit, they have everything you need, mine cost £150 - so about $170 or so from eBay! Amazing.

I know people always say you need to check the temps etc, I didn’t and everything went smoothly

Ok for sure. So basically you filled fluid, went through gears and drove it a little bit and then checked fluid again? I'll probably still try to get the fluid in the ballpark of the right temp and then check fluid level.

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[SwankPeRFection]

There’s no adaptations you need to run.

[akop18]

There’s no adaptations you need to run.

Ok perfect. Thanks

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[LowKeyLoki]

Ok perfect. Thanks

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You should run it through the basic adaptations after refilling. I believe it says to do so in the work shop manual? Might have something to do with the viscosity or fluid level that could affect it?
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...SG-adaptations

Anyways it can’t hurt and it definitely helped the shift points on my B8 after doing the basic adaptations.

[LowKeyLoki]

Also since you have VCDS use it to monitor the trans temp for refilling, having it at the correct temp is important.

[akop18]

Also since you have VCDS use it to monitor the trans temp for refilling, having it at the correct temp is important.

Ya then I will do the adaptations. I fill it, get the trans fluid up to proper temp and then check fluid again? Will trans fluid come up to temp by just going through R N D while idling or do you have to drive it a bit to get it up to temp?

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[LowKeyLoki]

It will come up to temp just sitting idling, takes a little while but after you open the fill plug again and fluid should dribble out, if not you just add a little more till it comes out the fill plug hole and your done.

[akop18]

It will come up to temp just sitting idling, takes a little while but after you open the fill plug again and fluid should dribble out, if not you just add a little more till it comes out the fill plug hole and your done.

For sure. This seems pretty simple and straight forward I don't know why I've avoided doing it this entire time.

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[LowKeyLoki]

Another thing is buy is new fill plug/drain plug, you can reuse them but I’d suggest getting new ones since they are only a few dollars. My fill plug was pretty much stripped on my B8, I couldn’t believe someone could be so dumb as to strip a hex key bolt…I ended up getting a bolt extractor kit from harbor freight to remove it.


Also if you remove the cross brace those bolts are one time use and need to be replaced.

[akop18]

Another thing is buy is new fill plug/drain plug, you can reuse them but I’d suggest getting new ones since they are only a few dollars. My fill plug was pretty much stripped on my B8, I couldn’t believe someone could be so dumb as to strip a hex key bolt…I ended up getting a bolt extractor kit from harbor freight to remove it.


Also if you remove the cross brace those bolts are one time use and need to be replaced.

Can I get away with leaving that brace on or is there no access with it on? I had a brief look when I installed my downpipes and it seemed like it probably would need to come off.

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[SwankPeRFection]

Can I get away with leaving that brace on or is there no access with it on? I had a brief look when I installed my downpipes and it seemed like it probably would need to come off.

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Needs to come off. You can’t pull the pan with it on. I covered the nuances of this in another post here I think.

[akop18]

There is bolts you can add on when you order trans service kit, are those bolts for the pan or for the brace? I attached photoScreenshot_20230430-114220_Chrome.jpg

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[LowKeyLoki]

There is bolts you can add on when you order trans service kit, are those bolts for the pan or for the brace? I attached photoScreenshot_20230430-114220_Chrome.jpg

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Those are the pan bolts, look up cross brace bolts + audizine on Google, parts list with P/Ns has been covered before on here.

[frankinstyyn]

Everyone has covered pretty well!!

Here’s a link to my purchase - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175579159...mis&media=COPY

I’m in the Uk but this has everything you need… the only thing is the cross brace bolts, I wasn’t aware that they were one time use only, I know the pan bolts are single use and the kit has those bolts….

Just to be clear, I didn’t drive my car - just ran through the gears while static, that loads the oil into all the right places. Then let it idle for a bit, then topped up until it dripped out again. If you have VCDS - there is no point not checking the temps, like others have said, it won’t hurt to use it :)

[wrxkyle]

I did this the other week on mine. It’s was actually even more simple than I thought.

I read so many guides and watched all the videos.

Make sure that you check the fill plug first, if that breaks or doesn’t come out, you’ll have no chance.

As for the fluid level, you literally can’t fill it past the fill hole so when refilling, start the car, go through all the gears once or twice (foot on the break), leave running for 5 minutes or so, then car off and refill until fluid comes out. That’s it

yeah, there's the whole temp thing but some people have been purposefully overfilling their trans to the point of adding catch cans to the overfill J-tube on top, so it would be better to be a heat-expansion's worth over than be under. dsg really doesn't like to be under on fluid. there is an over fill vent tube on top that might weep some if you filled way too much, but i'd fill, run through gears, refill, (now if you have scan tool run until at temp) pull plug one last time to let excess come out, done.

if you don't have the tool then fill, run through gears, refill, plug.

[frankinstyyn]

yeah, there's the whole temp thing but some people have been purposefully overfilling their trans to the point of adding catch cans to the overfill J-tube on top, so it would be better to be a heat-expansion's worth over than be under. dsg really doesn't like to be under on fluid. there is an over fill vent tube on top that might weep some if you filled way too much, but i'd fill, run through gears, refill, (now if you have scan tool run until at temp) pull plug one last time to let excess come out, done.

if you don't have the tool then fill, run through gears, refill, plug.

Yep! This is exactly what I did. Running smoothly and oil looking lovely now


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[akop18]

Yes, you can use VCDS. You should be fine then from the sounds of it. When you do it, loosen the fill plug first before anything else to make sure you’re good. The filling is also simple. Go to Home Depot or wherever and get yourself one of those spray bottles with the pump on it. Take it home and wipe inside and make sure it’s new and there’s no debris in it. Cut the wand short and take the nozzle off (you don’t need to spray in a pattern, just stream out). Pour your DSG fluid in that and pump to pressurize. Then go with the tip in the fill hole and spray in. It’s no different than if you got one of those pressurized brake bleeders, same concept, except you don’t have to screw in the full hole to keep it pressurized. The key thing is to make sure it’s clean and don’t use it for any other fluid other than DSG fluid for these services, as the trans is sensitive to other fluid contaminations. Follow the factory instructions for bolting the pan back up and the sequence. Good luck.

So I am going to use that spray pump jug you referenced, can I just rinse it out with water or do you think I need to clean it with chemical? I'm talking about a brand new unused spray jug.

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[SwankPeRFection]

You shouldn’t need to clean it with anything. Just make sure it’s not been used and it’s new and there’s no plastic bits in it from manufacturing or anything. Don’t overthink this. The idea is not to contaminate the DSG fluid, so don’t do so by introducing cleaning products into this.

Don’t forget to take the sprayer tip off, you want a solid stream in there, not silliness. Also, don’t stick it in too far, just the tip. 😂

[akop18]

You shouldn’t need to clean it with anything. Just make sure it’s not been used and it’s new and there’s no plastic bits in it from manufacturing or anything. Don’t overthink this. The idea is not to contaminate the DSG fluid, so don’t do so by introducing cleaning products into this.

Don’t forget to take the sprayer tip off, you want a solid stream in there, not silliness. Also, don’t stick it in too far, just the tip.

Well said. Thanks again man and ya I am definitely overthinking this so I appreciate the guidance. The only other thing I am unsure of is how to see trans fluid temp on VCDS but I'm sure I can find a thread where that is addressed so I should be all good.

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[SwankPeRFection]

Look at the DSG service thread, it’s in there.

[akop18]

Look at the DSG service thread, it’s in there.

Hey swank does this all look right to you? I didn't realize there's so much to do on VCDS after the fluid fill, just wanted your two cents on the VCDS portion. Screenshot_20230504-224511_Chrome.jpg

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