2021 B9.5 RS5 possible rocker arm failure?

[Smith113]

Two days ago, I got in my car and it started jerking really hard on takeoff. Like a person learning how to drive a manual is the best way I can describe it. Car drove fine for a few miles, then went to pass someone and it had no power. No lights. Got home and it was idling rough in park. Talked to my independent shop and ran Vagcom. Got a boost code. Can’t remember the code and he had me clear it. He thinks a hose or clamp could be loose. Only issue is there’s a ticking noise now. After letting the car sit overnight, I started it and it had a ticking noise while the RPMs were high after startup. It stared oddly too, not a normal startup. RPMs started to go up and down as it was ticking. Once engine settled, ticking was gone but it was still idling rough. Drove it around the block and still has no power when giving it harder throttle. I have an appointment tomorrow at my shop to check it out. Kind of wondering if it might be rocker arm failure. It’s a 21, so I should have the updated part, but the ticking noise is what has me wondering. Curious if anyone in here with a B9.5 RS5 has had or heard of anyone having rocker arm failure? I am stage 1 034. Flashed back to stock and issue still there. I’ll try to attach a video of the ticking noise.

[Smith113]

https://youtu.be/5iFLVx2-A8E

Video ^^

Thread got posted twice. 🙃

[ATL_RS5]

I wish I had any insight to provide but I am a noob, I hope your car is ok and it turns out to be something small like a hose clamp that $5 can fix. Good luck brother.

[Smith113]

I wish I had any insight to provide but I am a noob, I hope your car is ok and it turns out to be something small like a hose clamp that $5 can fix. Good luck brother.

All good.
They just told me that they can’t find any issue. Clearly there is one, but it’s passing every test they throw at it. He’s taking it for a spin to do some sort of vacuum test. If that passes, they’re just kind of at a standstill and don’t know what to tell me. But there is definitely a boost issue.

[JohnEnglish]

If the vehicle is under warranty, my first stop is always the dealer.

[Smith113]

If the vehicle is under warranty, my first stop is always the dealer.

I’m tuned. Was hoping their initial thought of a loose hose or clamp was right. I’m going to the dealer next. Flashed back to stock two days ago. Worst they can say is no, then I’m in the same spot I am now. I’ll just have to suck it up and foot the bill. Earliest dealer can get me in is May 15th.

[kfxjc]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Turbo-install

[JohnEnglish]

I’m tuned. Was hoping their initial thought of a loose hose or clamp was right. I’m going to the dealer next. Flashed back to stock two days ago. Worst they can say is no, then I’m in the same spot I am now. I’ll just have to suck it up and foot the bill. Earliest dealer can get me in is May 15th.

If it's 034 or IE, I just flash back to stock at home and then take it in. That's what I do and I haven't had any issues yet with warranty claims.

[Smith113]

If it's 034 or IE, I just flash back to stock at home and then take it in. That's what I do and I haven't had any issues yet with warranty claims.

Good to hear! I am 034 stage 1. Flashed back to stock two days ago. Dealer can’t get me in until may 15th. We’ll see from there. I did price the turbos just out of curiosity. Each turbo is $2,234.29 👀

[Smith113]

Update -

Car is passing all tests. Until the engine is torn apart to find an issue, we’re at a dead end. Car drives fine until you give it throttle past 3,500-4,000 ish. Then it struggles. Boost gauge isn’t working. These are the notes from the tech at the shop —


PERFORM LEVEL ONE DIAGNOSIS C/S The CEL is
84.95
on, Drivetrain Malfunction warning on, there was a boost code, OEM boost gauge inop. inspect and advise.
Confirmed customers concern. Scanned vehicle and found fault code p0299 turbocharger underboost stored static. Visually inspected charge pressure system and found no damage present.
Performed intake smoke test and found no signs of leaks. Checked and confirmed vacuum reaching n75 wastegate solenoid. Performed output test and found n75 valve operating normally. Checked and confirmed wastegate actuators to be moving normally when vacuum was applied and holding vacuum. Performed test drive and found that when the cm commands vacuum to be applied to the wastegate actuators, the proper vacuum reaches the actuators.
Tested and confirmed no obstructions in the charge system.
Recommend further diagnosis and testing.

I go to the dealer May 15th. I’ll update what the final conclusion is once I know.

[chrismadson]

Is there a boost sensor that can be checked? If the ECU is sending a boost target (confirmed by the actuators functioning) but it is not receiving a corresponding boost value when expected, then it would absolutely struggle with fuel trims and timing when in an RPM range and throttle position where that boost should be.


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[ATL_RS5]

Will be interesting to see what the dealer finds may 15, I hope they do their due diligence and look into the issue comprehensively.

[Dan99]

Good to hear! I am 034 stage 1. Flashed back to stock two days ago. Dealer can’t get me in until may 15th. We’ll see from there. I did price the turbos just out of curiosity. Each turbo is $2,234.29 👀

Did you also have the 034 TCU tune installed? As I understand it, the TCU has a role in communicating with the ECU regarding torque.

[Smith113]

Did you also have the 034 TCU tune installed? As I understand it, the TCU has a role in communicating with the ECU regarding torque.

I did. I’m at the shop now for my appointment. They’re saying they can tear into the intake and make sure the turbos are fine, then they have a couple of other theories, but if it’s none of those, they said I’ll have to go to the dealer. Tech here was a master tech at Audi Nashville and said if none of what they think is true today, next step would be contacting Audi engineers. This is turning into a nightmare lol. I’m hopeful it’s something easy and they can do it.

[JohnEnglish]

Honestly, the dealer would be my first stop since the car is still under warranty.

[Smith113]

Honestly, the dealer would be my first stop since the car is still under warranty.

Usually is, but I’m tuned. Trying not to get flagged TD1 and they void the warranty. I have an extended warranty that’s not with Audi, but it doesn’t kick in until factory expires. With the extended, my independent shop can do warranty work and car doesn’t get flagged. But looks like if they can find the issue and repair it, I have no choice.

[JohnEnglish]

As I mentioned earlier, I'd flash back to stock and take it to the dealer. If it's a serious enough issue you're going to have to take it in anyway and for an initial diagnostic they're not going to do a deep dive scan of all the modules.

[Smith113]

Got a call this morning from the shop saying they found the issue. Some sort of failed hose. Can’t remember what he said and phone was breaking up, but he mentioned crack shaft and said it’s similar to pcv and something about vacuum. Part and labor will be less than $900. Only issue now is there isn’t a single one in stock in the US or Canada and they’re on back order from Germany. Estimating 3-5 weeks for the part. Went ahead and had them order it and I’ll have them do the repair when it comes in. Car is with them until then. Thankful it wasn’t a blown turbo. Tech said since there aren’t any in stock and they’re back ordered, he thinks I’m probably not the only one with the issue and they’re probably correcting a flawed design. Who knows.

[Smith113]

Got a call this morning from the shop saying they found the issue. Some sort of failed hose. Can’t remember what he said and phone was breaking up, but he mentioned crack shaft and said it’s similar to pcv and something about vacuum. Part and labor will be less than $900. Only issue now is there isn’t a single one in stock in the US or Canada and they’re on back order from Germany. Estimating 3-5 weeks for the part. Went ahead and had them order it and I’ll have them do the repair when it comes in. Car is with them until then. Thankful it wasn’t a blown turbo. Tech said since there aren’t any in stock and they’re back ordered, he thinks I’m probably not the only one with the issue and they’re probably correcting a flawed design. Who knows.

Crank** shaft.

[kfxjc]

prob the exact hose i sent you the link for in post #7 in this thread

[Smith113]

I never updated. The failed hose wasn’t it. I had a failed turbo. Left turbo turbine shaft nut was missing and right turbo had excessive amount of play, per dealer. Dealer replaced both turbos under warranty. A week or so after, I got a random knocking sound on cold start one day. It went away and haven’t heard it since. Dealer couldn’t replicate the sound. I waited three months to flash tune back on. Been stage 1 ECU, stage 2 TCU since sept 15th or so. No issues yet. Fingers crossed.

[JohnEnglish]

I never updated. The failed hose wasn’t it. I had a failed turbo. Left turbo turbine shaft nut was missing and right turbo had excessive amount of play, per dealer. Dealer replaced both turbos under warranty. A week or so after, I got a random knocking sound on cold start one day. It went away and haven’t heard it since. Dealer couldn’t replicate the sound. I waited three months to flash tune back on. Been stage 1 ECU, stage 2 TCU since sept 15th or so. No issues yet. Fingers crossed.

So did the dealer correctly diagnose the problem after the indy shop misdiagnosed it or did the indy shop finally figure it out and send you to the dealer?

[Smith113]

Indy shops theory of the bad intercooler pipe was wrong. They went ahead and put the new one on anyway. They were trying to avoid digging into the intake and charging me I guess. lol. But after that, he asked if I wanted them to check turbos, I said yes. Found left turbo seized up. Quoted almost $9k for two new ones. Told them I’ll try my luck at the dealer. Had it towed to the dealer to avoid causing anymore issues. Dealer found that the turbine shaft nut was missing in the left turbo and right turbo had excessive amount of play. Replaced both turbos.

- - - Updated - - -

So did the dealer correctly diagnose the problem after the indy shop misdiagnosed it or did the indy shop finally figure it out and send you to the dealer?

Indy shops theory of the bad intercooler pipe was wrong. They went ahead and put the new one on anyway. They were trying to avoid digging into the intake and charging me I guess. lol. But after that, he asked if I wanted them to check turbos, I said yes. Found left turbo seized up. Quoted almost $9k for two new ones. Told them I’ll try my luck at the dealer. Had it towed to the dealer to avoid causing anymore issues. Dealer found that the turbine shaft nut was missing in the left turbo and right turbo had excessive amount of play. Replaced both turbos.