Crank seal gap?

[s4avant87]

Morning,

Replaced my crank seal last night and noticed a gap where the new seal meets the crank "snub". Didn't think this was normal so I removed it to try and re-install better and no such luck. Not sure if the seal I have (made by elring) is defective or a slight gap is normal due to it's double lip design. The spare OEM seal I had appeared to be even worse as the inner lip on the seal was wavy and deformed looking. Opted to order another elring and give it a go.

Below is a picture of the old seal just before removal with a similar gap. Is a small gap normal?

[slow ride]

That part is just the dust lip seal. Also I would only use ptfe seals for this and install dry. I had a rubber lip seal leak soon after I used one many years ago. The stock seal is ptfe which is like a harder plastic type seal. Do no oil the seal or shaft in fact clean the oil off first. Make sure you protect the lip of the seal from the keyway as they are sharper and will gouge the seal.

[s4avant87]

That part is just the dust lip seal. Also I would only use ptfe seals for this and install dry. I had a rubber lip seal leak soon after I used one many years ago. The stock seal is ptfe which is like a harder plastic type seal. Do no oil the seal or shaft in fact clean the oil off first. Make sure you protect the lip of the seal from the keyway as they are sharper and will gouge the seal.

Okay cool. So a slight gap is somewhat normal as long as the lip didn't roll etc. New ptfe seal from elring actually came with this neat plastic install cup to help it over the sharper bits. Thank you for your response.

[KansasQuattro]

I had some scoring on the crank on mine that damaged the lip of the PTFE. Was not comfortable with that, so installed the spring type seal (wet) and have not have had any leaks from it in 60k miles.

My understanding is that once you switch to the spring type seal you can't go back to PTFE without machining the shaft.

[slow ride]

I had wondered in the past if I had damaged that rubber lip seal on first install by not making a plastic guide to cover the sharp edge of the key way. I also found some other documents saying not to mix seal type after use so it's hard to say without contacting a seal manufacture and asking for technical info. Anyway I always recommend replacing with the same type at OE. For a simple way to guard the key way would be a little electrical tape around the snout.

[slow ride]

Okay cool. So a slight gap is somewhat normal as long as the lip didn't roll etc. New ptfe seal from elring actually came with this neat plastic install cup to help it over the sharper bits. Thank you for your response.

Yes, elring also supplies those for the cam seals that are the latest updated ones and ptfe. As crazy as it sounds the cam seals that are ptfe are directional (clockwise/counterclockwise) in which they spiral the ptfe seal edge for the application.

[PwrWgn]

Just another bit of info here but the crank seal installation depth can be varied to provide a replacement seal an unworn surface to ride on. Maybe something to consider if you have a 200k plus engine and you can feel a ridge on the crank snub with your fingernail.

[ShelbyM3]

IMG_7333.jpg
Elring PTFE seal. I originally used rubber and it rolled on me. Much like others, read up and switched to Teflon.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[KansasQuattro]

Yes, I believe the official instructions are to seat the new seal a little deeper or shallower (don't remember which) than the original due to the prior wear spot.