Just finished installing a Silly Rabbit Motorsport (SRM) flex fuel sensor kit on my 21 TT RS. Here a a few tips and tricks to make future installs for TT RS and RS3 owners a bit easier:
First, the kit is very high quality and well designed. For my car, I found the hoses to be a bit long -- probably so the kit can also fit RS3’s which likely have a slightly larger engine bay.
The hose length was a problem when I tried to use Earls AN quick connect fuel rail adapter fittings in lieu of the connectors which came with the kit. The reason for using the Earls AN connectors instead what came with the kit was based on the recommendation of some forum members who didn’t like the SRM connectors and felt the Earls were of superior quality and less prone to leak.
Anyway, I was able to use the one 5/8” Earls connector ( Earl's Performance 751156ERL 5/16" ) at the firewall. However the two 3/8” Earls connectors ( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-751166erl ) that attach to either side of the actual sensor would not work because they were too long - each one was a good 1/2” longer than the SRM connectors - and this extra length made the fuel line too long to fit well in the engine bay. So, I just used the two 3/8” fittings that came with the SRM kit, and this allowed for the fuel line to squeeze in the space available. And good news - no leaks!
-Disconnecting the oem quick release by the manifold:
I struggled at first, like a dumb ass, with this because I was squeezing in the two clips, pushing the connection together and then trying to pull it apart - all with no success. Thanks to a forum member, the secret is to first push the connector together, then squeeze in the clips, then it will gently and easy pull apart.
-Disconnecting the oem quick release by the firewall:
Piece of cake, Simply push in the clip and pull up to disconnect.
-Connecting the wiring:
I connected the ground wire to the main ground located near the brake reservoir in the engine bay.
I cut a slit in the oval shaped grommet on the drivers side firewall to run the power and OBD2 wires into the cabin.
Pop off the triangular shaped panel on the side of the dash, and also the little panel to the right of the headlight switch - this will give you more room to access the OBD2 port and the fusebox. Note - the little panel to the right of the headlight switch says “Airbag” on it, but there was no airbag behind my panel.
For power, the directions said to tap into unused fuse slot 48, but on my 21 TT RS, but my multimeter detected no voltage there, nor in slot 47. So, I tapped the piggy back into fuse 40 (the cigarette lighter socket which only comes on with accessory and ignition) and it worked fine. Remember, when you tap into where an existing fuse is, on a piggy back connector the original fuse goes in the bottom slot, and the fuse for the accessory goes in the top fuse slot.
The OBD2 lead goes to slot 15 on the OBD2 port. The existing Molex connector in slot 15 comes out easily - just lift up on the tiny black clip on top of the plug in the front as you are gently pulling on the wire from the rear.
A molex connector is provided with the kit, which you crimp on to the OBD2 lead. However, after doing this I was unable to get the molex connector to go all the way into slot 15 on the OCD2 port....it seemed like it was a too big.
My solution - I used the existing crimped molex connector that I had originally removed from port 15....I cut the wire, soldered it to the white OBD2 lead and it plugged into slot 15 perfectly (as it should have because that is where it came from!)
Next step. get DS1 Stg 2 E85!
Anyway, I hope this helpful to those installing SRM flex fuel kits.
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