Engine Rebuild

[dansaleen_04]

OK guys need some advice before I get into it. I will be replacing all the gaskets and timing belt on a 1.8T. I will also be doing a turbo gasket repair kit, and changing out the connecting rods for IE forged rods. I need to know if there is anything else I need to be concerned about or replace so I can take care of it now. Please understand, I AM NOT trying to do a massive engine build here so please dont tell me to replace things just BECAUSE lolol. Yes I will try to get some gains which is why Im getting the forged rods, but Im only looking to go about 350hp and according to IE's website and breakdown the engine is capable of doing that with stock internals and forged rods. If it has history of failure then let me know of those issues. Anything missing Im all ears. Thanks guys and hope to get this done soon!!

[Mike Tries]

Hi. Glad you're here. First let me say that I think rebuilding an engine is a nutty idea.

There. Now that I've got that out of the way, let me introduce you to the thread that I am putting together right now as I go through exactly the same process.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ilt-a-race-car

Granted, there is probably some other stuff in there, but I did my best to cover it all. I am aiming for way less power than you, probably, but my engine will be rung out at full power and high RPMs for sustained periods of time, so I went and replaced a lot of while-you're-in-there things. I don't even know if it will work yet--my rod bearings just showed up today.

I replaced:

The clutch
Main bearings
Rod bearings
Piston rings
Oil pump chain tensioner
Head gasket
Thermostat and housing
Oil cooler
All the torque to yield fasteners
All the gaskets
Probably a valve guide seal

Probably some other stuff. Check it out and see if it is helpful. There are lots of pictures. If you are going to replace rods, you are already doing a massive build. Unless you think you want to skip out on replacing $30 worth of bearings or something. You probably dont need to align hone the block, but a good hot tanking might be worth it. You don't want to do this twice. Might as well do it thoroughly.

May I ask why you are rebuilding? Did the engine fail, or are you just looking for more power?

[dansaleen_04]

Hi. Glad you're here. First let me say that I think rebuilding an engine is a nutty idea.

There. Now that I've got that out of the way, let me introduce you to the thread that I am putting together right now as I go through exactly the same process.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ilt-a-race-car

Granted, there is probably some other stuff in there, but I did my best to cover it all. I am aiming for way less power than you, probably, but my engine will be rung out at full power and high RPMs for sustained periods of time, so I went and replaced a lot of while-you're-in-there things. I don't even know if it will work yet--my rod bearings just showed up today.

I replaced:

The clutch
Main bearings
Rod bearings
Piston rings
Oil pump chain tensioner
Head gasket
Thermostat and housing
Oil cooler
All the torque to yield fasteners
All the gaskets
Probably a valve guide seal

Probably some other stuff. Check it out and see if it is helpful. There are lots of pictures. If you are going to replace rods, you are already doing a massive build. Unless you think you want to skip out on replacing $30 worth of bearings or something. You probably dont need to align hone the block, but a good hot tanking might be worth it. You don't want to do this twice. Might as well do it thoroughly.

May I ask why you are rebuilding? Did the engine fail, or are you just looking for more power?

The main reason is because I have an oil leak so I want to go ahead and replace the gaskets. But I figured whie I have it open might as well replace the rods to give it a bit more flexibility for increasing horsepower. I already did the full exhaust and was about to do a tune until I found out that I cant do an APR stage 1+ tune because of the new EPA regulations with a test pipe so Ill be doing a Motoza tune instead. But as it sits right now the engine runs great and I want it to be rebuilt to run like new again.

[BumblebVR6]

The main reason is because I have an oil leak so I want to go ahead and replace the gaskets. But I figured whie I have it open might as well replace the rods to give it a bit more flexibility for increasing horsepower. I already did the full exhaust and was about to do a tune until I found out that I cant do an APR stage 1+ tune because of the new EPA regulations with a test pipe so Ill be doing a Motoza tune instead. But as it sits right now the engine runs great and I want it to be rebuilt to run like new again.

Great choice on tune thru Motoza. the APR tunes are garbage from my experience. The only good thing they ever made for our cars was the Stage3 and up turbo kits. The manifold was a nice design.

[dansaleen_04]

so I guess no one has ever done this then lolol.

[kwilson]

so I guess no one has ever done this then lolol.

You do know that there is a search function, right?

[dansaleen_04]

You do know that there is a search function, right?

No sorry I didnt know the search existed lolol. Of course I know but everything I find is either for a full build or only partial things that dont really answer what I need. But tank you for the response

[EuroxS4]

350chp is doable on stock rods, It all comes down to how the engine is setup and tuned, high torque spikes usually grenade a stock engine pretty quickly. In order to change the rods majority of the engine has to come apart or engine has to come out. Anything you take apart if its got a gaskets or a seal needs to be changed.

[SideMirror]

If a high mileage engine and you have not planned on refreshing the cylinder head, consider...

Inexpensive is valve lap and valve seals maybe $40 plus 5 or 6 hours time.

Recommended is the head tanked & deck shaved at your local machine shop, around $125.

More $$$ is high performance valve springs, a complete cylinder head rebuild, clutch, and brakes.

Have fun with your project.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[dansaleen_04]

350chp is doable on stock rods, It all comes down to how the engine is setup and tuned, high torque spikes usually grenade a stock engine pretty quickly. In order to change the rods majority of the engine has to come apart or engine has to come out. Anything you take apart if its got a gaskets or a seal needs to be changed.

yeah I know, the full engine is being removed and torn apart so all gaskets and seals will be replaced.

[dansaleen_04]

If a high mileage engine and you have not planned on refreshing the cylinder head, consider...

Inexpensive is valve lap and valve seals maybe $40 plus 5 or 6 hours time.

Recommended is the head tanked & deck shaved at your local machine shop, around $125.

More $$$ is high performance valve springs, a complete cylinder head rebuild, clutch, and brakes.

Have fun with your project.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Audizine Forum mobile app

Yeah that would be sweet but as stated, Im not doing a full engine build so no need to do head work really. And as stated IE has spec'd forged rods to be sufficient for that amount of horsepower on stock internals. But the lapping sounds good. Thanks

[BumblebVR6]

Yeah that would be sweet but as stated, Im not doing a full engine build so no need to do head work really. And as stated IE has spec'd forged rods to be sufficient for that amount of horsepower on stock internals. But the lapping sounds good. Thanks

The head is the area I would spend the most money on. Depending how many miles are on the motor, the exhaust guides are probably shot. Also need to see which head you have. If it is stamped AMB, you could have a COSCAST head. Really, if its either, I'd replace it with an AWM or any other small port head. The original heads have history of cracking due to bad castings used. Hard to do a job like this correctly and cheap at the same time. Good luck.

[Mike Tries]

The head is the area I would spend the most money on. Depending how many miles are on the motor, the exhaust guides are probably shot. Also need to see which head you have. If it is stamped AMB, you could have a COSCAST head. Really, if its either, I'd replace it with an AWM or any other small port head. The original heads have history of cracking due to bad castings used. Hard to do a job like this correctly and cheap at the same time. Good luck.

I had a COSCAST AMB head. It had cracks between every. single. valve. and leaked coolant profusely. Absolute junk, and it was a well-cared-for-car as far as I can tell. My new head is stamped GERMANY, though I don't know what code it is--just that it's exactly like the AMB, except not broken.