Stock 2016 S6 - CPO has ended...THE TIME HAS COME!

[The Riddler]

Hello All,

New member of the forum, but a frequent guest over the years for information.

My 2016 S6 CPO has ended and it is time to make some performance upgrades. I am the Second owner and got her with 18,700 miles in October 2017. Today she has 94,400 miles and has been daily driven like a bat out of hell, as she was born to run! Never had any issues, and all maintenance has been done on time, within recommended.

Just had the turbo screen recall done a few months ago, so that is no longer an issue.

My question is, if I gave you a virgin 2016 S6, taking everything you all know now, what would you do first?? What would you avoid?

Looking to start off with a budget of $4k to $5k for initial upgrades. As I progress, the end goal is to put RS turbos and Stage 2.5 for a total power output of 650+....something like this - https://www.augustgarage.ca/670-hp-m...-stage-2-tune/

I live 30 minutes from FCP Euro and have been getting most of my replacement parts from them (lifetime replacement warranty kicks ass!), but want to do this performance upgrade with the best and most reliable. I have a friend who owns a pro shop that will do the work (not DIYing this).

As of right now, I have to replace the Motor Mounts, going with the 034Motorsport, as well as probably going to replace the sway bars as well. Checking control arms, suspension parts, etc., and replacing them as needed. (anything I should look for?)

My initial take from what I've read here is to start with the following:

SRM Inlets
Downpipes
New Exhaust
ECU Tune - Leaning towards APR Stage 1, to start

I figure all of that plus other maintenance items I need to get done (transmission work, motor mounts, fluids, etc.) should put me around $4k ish.

Looking forward to what your thoughts are.

[OhioS6]

If initially going stage 1 downpipes are not needed, pretty sure most stage 2 dont require downpipes from what ive read, DS1 and APR(no longer sold) do not require them, however changing out downpipes will through a CEL even if you go catted. SRM intakes are known to sometimes even reduce power, also from what ive read, on factory s6 turbos once again stipulation from what ive read. Current owner of a 15’ S6 stage 3 about to go E85. Downpipes, SRM full intake(been through 2 others), AWE track, Unitronic ECU/TCU combo, JHM intercooler, and JHM silicone hoses

[THCarpenter]

you can go down the rabbit hole
my build thread: (still undone)
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ainment-thread
there are many others in the subsection you can look through to see where you want to end up at....

if you are doing the motor mounts, unless DIY, you may be at an engine out job, so it might be time to check some of the more hard to reach areas

Tyler Kirst at TGK motorsports has some solid sway bars and some of the more show Low Low Life. Take a look at: https://tgkmotorsport.com/
you can also hit up Corey Harper at GPO for some power adders and the upgraded transmission parts (if you go that far) https://gpotuning.com/
then you have Jon Gronewald at Pinnacle Performance for turbos and support mods https://pinnacleperformanceauto.com/
tuning and other big power parts are with Kyle Leblanc at KYLETUNEDIT https://kyletunedit.com/
you already have listed SRM with Sean and Will for some of the power adder parts https://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/
dont forget your ECS (YMMV with shipping), but they have a mass assortment of parts https://www.ecstuning.com/
and more suspension goodies from our friends over at 034, you can chat with Sean https://www.034motorsport.com/

Im very sure I am missing quite a few links, but we are here to answer your questions.

Dont forget that we have a full Telgram chat https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...7-5-Group-Chat

and then there are plenty of Facebook Groups
https://m.facebook.com/groups/202164...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/112464...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/144813...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/499462...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/359987...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/104831...eferrer=search

hope this helps

[Botbasher]

The CPO wouldn't cover the mounts?

Cheers,

KS

[OhioS6]

Hows he getting 4k with those maintenance items with those mods? O.o

[MattyMarkey]

Hows he getting 4k with those maintenance items with those mods? O.o

Was saying the same to myself… but didn’t want to burst his bubble.


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[OhioS6]

He will see hes got enough for maintenance and then an intake for 4k lol

[The Riddler]

Hows he getting 4k with those maintenance items with those mods? O.o

Haha, I could understand this thought. I worded it incorrectly, my fault.

Already have the motor mounts in hand, and my friend doesn't charge me labor for maintenance items.

The $4k is only for performance upgrades, in addition to whatever maintenance items I need to do!

[The Riddler]

you can go down the rabbit hole
my build thread: (still undone)
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ainment-thread
there are many others in the subsection you can look through to see where you want to end up at....

if you are doing the motor mounts, unless DIY, you may be at an engine out job, so it might be time to check some of the more hard to reach areas

Tyler Kirst at TGK motorsports has some solid sway bars and some of the more show Low Low Life. Take a look at: https://tgkmotorsport.com/
you can also hit up Corey Harper at GPO for some power adders and the upgraded transmission parts (if you go that far) https://gpotuning.com/
then you have Jon Gronewald at Pinnacle Performance for turbos and support mods https://pinnacleperformanceauto.com/
tuning and other big power parts are with Kyle Leblanc at KYLETUNEDIT https://kyletunedit.com/
you already have listed SRM with Sean and Will for some of the power adder parts https://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/
dont forget your ECS (YMMV with shipping), but they have a mass assortment of parts https://www.ecstuning.com/
and more suspension goodies from our friends over at 034, you can chat with Sean https://www.034motorsport.com/

Im very sure I am missing quite a few links, but we are here to answer your questions.

Dont forget that we have a full Telgram chat https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...7-5-Group-Chat

and then there are plenty of Facebook Groups
https://m.facebook.com/groups/202164...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/112464...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/144813...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/499462...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/359987...eferrer=search
https://m.facebook.com/groups/104831...eferrer=search

hope this helps

This is awesome. Down the rabbit hole I shall go!

[The Riddler]

If initially going stage 1 downpipes are not needed, pretty sure most stage 2 dont require downpipes from what ive read, DS1 and APR(no longer sold) do not require them, however changing out downpipes will through a CEL even if you go catted. SRM intakes are known to sometimes even reduce power, also from what ive read, on factory s6 turbos once again stipulation from what ive read. Current owner of a 15’ S6 stage 3 about to go E85. Downpipes, SRM full intake(been through 2 others), AWE track, Unitronic ECU/TCU combo, JHM intercooler, and JHM silicone hoses

Appreciate the insight and suggestions. This along with THCarpenter, seems like I have a lot of options to ponder.

[THCarpenter]

its allot to ponder.

Im building to Stage 4+ to include WMI and some added parts to really make a stage 4.5.....I think....lol

I want options to run E% when I can and want to be stupid, but my end goal is to break hearts on the highway. Im not chasing the land record for full weight C7/7.5 S6, nor am I looking at HP figures to make an end goal. I want as easy pathway to consistent low 10's, A2W IC, Stock Look in the engine bay

I know I will not be the fastest, but I want to fuck with Hellcats....Kitty Tamer....lol

plus, this car, like my old Honda and Subaru are a pathway into some amazing friendships and contacts. You would be surprised at the groups of people that are willing to bend over and help in the VAG Community. My local group is almost all VW (MQB) guys, but they are all willing to assist

[ANMS4]

DS1 STg2, SMR intakes, BTers, E85 sensor and lines, DSG tune, and a nice catback. Thats all :) No need for DP's especially that you will need to pass inspections.

[Audibellybutton]

If you got $4k budget I would go

- Chinese Turbos from aliexpress or ebay (don't knock them several companies resell these for a premium)
they have the +4 and other options as well.
- Merc racing HX
- ECS inlets (cheaper than rs7 and srm though a lil smaller than SRM)
- HPFP piston upgrade
-Ethanol sensor
-LPFP fuel line upgrade


this setup will get you an insane boost in power along with e85. Even on pump gas it'll still be a huge gain and all in all will cost you about 2kish total. If you want to spend a lil more, spend it on some better turbos. like TS1 or Ts2. Stay away from the resold chinese turbos you're just going to overpay for the same thing.

[THCarpenter]

I honestly think that sticking with a Eth Stage 2 build would be best bang for the buck to get into it, and that makes it easier to decide to swan dive with your wallet, or be content.

ECS Inlets or RS7 Inlets, Intake of Choice, DS1 ECU Stage 2 OTS (with ability to upgrade OTS maps or go full custom), Exhaust of choice or full custom setup.
TCU Tune

You can do the LPFP/Eth lines, but its not needed with the stock turbos as you can blend in 3 gal on a full 93 fill up and be sitting around e25 for knock control

You'll probably need to bundle things with Corey or Jon, or if you can get multiple items from Kyle, but I dont think you will have a one stop shop

once you are stage 2, then you will make your full decision to go all in with turbos

[The Riddler]

its allot to ponder.

Im building to Stage 4+ to include WMI and some added parts to really make a stage 4.5.....I think....lol

I want options to run E% when I can and want to be stupid, but my end goal is to break hearts on the highway. Im not chasing the land record for full weight C7/7.5 S6, nor am I looking at HP figures to make an end goal. I want as easy pathway to consistent low 10's, A2W IC, Stock Look in the engine bay

I know I will not be the fastest, but I want to fuck with Hellcats....Kitty Tamer....lol

plus, this car, like my old Honda and Subaru are a pathway into some amazing friendships and contacts. You would be surprised at the groups of people that are willing to bend over and help in the VAG Community. My local group is almost all VW (MQB) guys, but they are all willing to assist

Love all the input!

Perhaps I should have put what I am looking to get out of these tunes.

Like you, focused on breaking hearts on the highway as well as tracking it at road courses. Nothing grinds my gears more than when I am cruising at 90/95 and some schmuck with a stock BMW or some shitkicker comes out of nowhere to pass me...my brain is wired to say "OK, GAME THE FUCK ON!" and blow by at 135, slow down, pull away until they get off or realize they won't win.

So with that in mind, and the input given here, I am going to focus on ECU, TCU, intake, Exhaust, Drivetrain carrier, and look at the current state of my suspension and stability for upgrades needed for lateral loads and shaving weight.

E85 I am not sure I'll even bother with it. Here in Communist Connecticut anything of fun is restricted or forbidden by some bullshit law. We have something like 5 E85 stations and I only have 1 within 100 miles. Since this is my daily driver, not sure it's worth even bothering to tackle that project.

I'll post updates when I start and the choices I go with.

[MattyMarkey]

Love all the input!

Perhaps I should have put what I am looking to get out of these tunes.

Like you, focused on breaking hearts on the highway as well as tracking it at road courses. Nothing grinds my gears more than when I am cruising at 90/95 and some schmuck with a stock BMW or some shitkicker comes out of nowhere to pass me...my brain is wired to say "OK, GAME THE FUCK ON!" and blow by at 135, slow down, pull away until they get off or realize they won't win.

So with that in mind, and the input given here, I am going to focus on ECU, TCU, intake, Exhaust, Drivetrain carrier, and look at the current state of my suspension and stability for upgrades needed for lateral loads and shaving weight.

E85 I am not sure I'll even bother with it. Here in Communist Connecticut anything of fun is restricted or forbidden by some bullshit law. We have something like 5 E85 stations and I only have 1 within 100 miles. Since this is my daily driver, not sure it's worth even bothering to tackle that project.

I'll post updates when I start and the choices I go with.

I’m in the same boat as you in regards to the availability of E85 anywhere near me. I’ve even considered getting barrels of it, because of the performance and especially cooling benefits are truly worth it.

Hinting where I am going next… cooling.

Have certainly focused on the same areas you’re talking about already. Where I would suggest you focus while and shortly after, is cooling upgrades; HX, coolant pump(s), or WMI and/or A2A if you have deep pockets. I am anxiously - patiently too cause Travis takes forever to install parts ;) - to see how Travis’s WMI set-up from Kyle works out in terms of ease of use and DD reliability.

To get the goals you want of tracking the car, or even consistently getting the same performance on the streets time after time, pull after pull, you’ll need to keep IATs and knock in check.

E85 is the easiest and least expensive option to keep knock in check, while adding more power. Other options vary depending on how you use the car, and budget lol


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[The Riddler]

Ok, so after some research the last few nights, I looked up to find it was 5 am and the sun was starting to come up, lol.
Note to self, if you have ADHD and take Adderall quick release, do not combine it with late-night research of car parts. (or do it, I was laser focused and did a lot of reading!)

In any event, back to decisions, decisions! FULL DISCLOSURE - I AM A FNG LEARNING FROM NOTHING - So bare with me if I ask/say stupid questions.

Priority Performance suspension/maintenance upgrades:
1. Engine Mounts - 034 Motorsport - Cost FREE (got credits on tap at FCP Euro that covers cost)
2. EuroCode Drivetrain Stabilizer - Everything I've read this is an absolute game changer!
EuroCode Drivetrain Stabilizer
3. Driveshaft Carrier - SRM or TGK???? Cost is the same, each one has its benefits, but not one post has been able to sway me either way
SRM
JXB
4. Sway Bar upgrade - EuroCode or TGK. The cost is relatively the same, but I noticed the TGK is 2mm smaller in the front and .1mm in the rear.
TGK
EuroCode
Questions, Does the size difference make a noticeable difference? Which option is better for hard lateral forces? Again the goal for this car is to eventually play on Road Courses like Lime Rock.
side note - As the Tri-State area is the ABSOLUTE BEST at road maintenance and fixing potholes (I've replaced 12 tires and 4 rims over 5 years - at no cost, thank you tire package) I will not be lowering at all, if that factors into suspension parts needed, not needed.
5. Drivetrain, Diff, and Transmission Billets - going with Eurocode. The price point is what is appealing. Seems like they all do the same with very little variance between brands. Thoughts?

TUNE -
ECU - TCU...Stage 1 to start off until I get all the suspension, intake, turbos, downpipes, etc. ready for stage 2.
I'm settled on going with SRM or IE. Price points are about the same $1999 (SRM) vs $1747 (IE).

From what I've read there are some really great things coming out of IE and SRM. General consensus though is that IE has some faster shifts and tunes, plus very user friendly (great for me).
Curious about thoughts here?

Exhaust -
Going simple here until I go balls out for the downpipes - 3 choices for the Res Delete X-pipe. Might just go IE if I pick the IE ECU/TCU tune.
034
IE
ECS

All of that puts me a little under $4k while I decide on the intake, but should in my estimation improve performance and handling significantly over stock. Now put me in my place

[MattyMarkey]

SRM has a TCU. SRM “ECU tune” utilizes/sells the DS1. IE vs DS1, there is ZERO questions which one to go with; DS1 & SRM TCU Combo (ps DS1 is also very user friendly)

You keep referencing “intakes”, but it’s really larger “turbo inlets” that are required for stage 2. Sorry, nit-picky terminology here, just to help ya out.

Eurocode has had quality issues in the past with their sway bars snapping. Not sure if they changed anything or it’s been resolved, but feel free to read up on that too lol. Might help sway you - yes, pun intended ;)

034 engine mounts at no charge is key! When they first came out, which was very recently, people were having problems getting errors from the sensors and coding them. Might want to search out the thread on them and/or give them a call to discuss.

Happy spending!


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[The Riddler]

SRM has a TCU. SRM “ECU tune” utilizes/sells the DS1. IE vs DS1, there is ZERO questions which one to go with; DS1 & SRM TCU Combo (ps DS1 is also very user friendly)

You keep referencing “intakes”, but it’s really larger “turbo inlets” that are required for stage 2. Sorry, nit-picky terminology here, just to help ya out.

Eurocode has had quality issues in the past with their sway bars snapping. Not sure if they changed anything or it’s been resolved, but feel free to read up on that too lol. Might help sway you - yes, pun intended ;)

034 engine mounts at no charge is key! When they first came out, which was very recently, people were having problems getting errors from the sensors and coding them. Might want to search out the thread on them and/or give them a call to discuss.

Happy spending!


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I was actually referring to an upgraded intake system such as these SRM or IE, but was unaware of the inlets aspect of the system so thank you! With the description though, the SRM intake mentions a full intake runner to the Turbos. Would that fully replace the inlets you are referring to? Forgive my ignorance, learning all of this on the go!

I'll for sure look at those for when I am doing stage 2 upgrades but for now, contemplating the worth of doing the intake upgrade. If I do, is it worth doing the inlets or waiting until I get the RS7 Turbos bolted on?

Sorry if I am missing something but seems to me intake/inlet are two separate things.

[OhioS6]

If you wanted you could get IE rs7 intake box and pair it with rs7 inlets, or quite possibly SRM inlets. The inlet is specifically the elbow that goes into the turbos. SRM has the biggest ones currently. And the SRM intakes are debatable on the factory S turbos even though they claim to make good horsepower. I only had mind after i got RS turbos so id wait til i got those.

[OhioS6]

Just fyi spending money in the exhaust when you plan on going catback is pointless these cars dont get super loud, i had 034 xpipe, downpipes midpipes mated to the factory sport exhaust, and still ended up with AWE track. Theres no drone, now is it obnoxious even at WOT . I also have the IE carbon intake and SRM full length, the IE(actually for sale) makes 0 noise but its really nice to look at. The SRM intakes a bunch of noise, and will allow a car thats dropping boost off up top to continue pushing boost, which i think is more of a factory airbox/inlet thing. The factory S inlet will literally fit inside of the SRM inlets.

[MattyMarkey]

I was actually referring to an upgraded intake system such as these SRM or IE, but was unaware of the inlets aspect of the system so thank you! With the description though, the SRM intake mentions a full intake runner to the Turbos. Would that fully replace the inlets you are referring to? Forgive my ignorance, learning all of this on the go!

I'll for sure look at those for when I am doing stage 2 upgrades but for now, contemplating the worth of doing the intake upgrade. If I do, is it worth doing the inlets or waiting until I get the RS7 Turbos bolted on?

Sorry if I am missing something but seems to me intake/inlet are two separate things.

If it’s unclear what Ohio is saying. The IE set-up is just an upgraded intake box - this will do nothing for performance until you also replace the turbo inlets (cannot go DS1 stage 2 until this is done)

The SRM set-up is actual larger turbo inlets, that also remove the stock airbox - you can get SRM short intakes and mate them to most stock or aftermarket air boxes, to make what some think is a cleaner/OEM look (rather than open air filters).

SRM + IE airbox = stock looking set-up
OEM RS7 inlets + IE airbox = stock look setup
SRM set-up = open air filter elements

*any would be stage 2 if utilizing DS1. If you go IE ECU, stage 2 to them is using their upgraded airbox, which still leaves the most restrictive part; the inlets. Essentially the ECU is requesting the turbos to increase the boost, without increasing the volume of airflow (dumb). You WOULD NOT be stage 2 on DS1 if using just the IE airbox.

If planning to stay at stage 1 for a while, then jump to stage 3 when you upgrade to RS7 turbos, you certainly wouldn’t need the inlets right now. Don’t see anything wrong with that decision.


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[THCarpenter]

I am anxiously - patiently too cause Travis takes forever to install parts ;) - to see how Travis’s WMI set-up from Kyle works out in terms of ease of use and DD reliability.

one I havent even received the kit yet.....

two

[THCarpenter]

Ok, so after some research the last few nights, I looked up to find it was 5 am and the sun was starting to come up, lol.
Note to self, if you have ADHD and take Adderall quick release, do not combine it with late-night research of car parts. (or do it, I was laser focused and did a lot of reading!)

In any event, back to decisions, decisions! FULL DISCLOSURE - I AM A FNG LEARNING FROM NOTHING - So bare with me if I ask/say stupid questions.

Priority Performance suspension/maintenance upgrades:
1. Engine Mounts - 034 Motorsport - Cost FREE (got credits on tap at FCP Euro that covers cost)
2. EuroCode Drivetrain Stabilizer - Everything I've read this is an absolute game changer!
EuroCode Drivetrain Stabilizer
3. Driveshaft Carrier - SRM or TGK???? Cost is the same, each one has its benefits, but not one post has been able to sway me either way
SRM
JXB
4. Sway Bar upgrade - EuroCode or TGK. The cost is relatively the same, but I noticed the TGK is 2mm smaller in the front and .1mm in the rear.
TGK
EuroCode
Questions, Does the size difference make a noticeable difference? Which option is better for hard lateral forces? Again the goal for this car is to eventually play on Road Courses like Lime Rock.
side note - As the Tri-State area is the ABSOLUTE BEST at road maintenance and fixing potholes (I've replaced 12 tires and 4 rims over 5 years - at no cost, thank you tire package) I will not be lowering at all, if that factors into suspension parts needed, not needed.
5. Drivetrain, Diff, and Transmission Billets - going with Eurocode. The price point is what is appealing. Seems like they all do the same with very little variance between brands. Thoughts?

TUNE -
ECU - TCU...Stage 1 to start off until I get all the suspension, intake, turbos, downpipes, etc. ready for stage 2.
I'm settled on going with SRM or IE. Price points are about the same $1999 (SRM) vs $1747 (IE).

From what I've read there are some really great things coming out of IE and SRM. General consensus though is that IE has some faster shifts and tunes, plus very user friendly (great for me).
Curious about thoughts here?

Exhaust -
Going simple here until I go balls out for the downpipes - 3 choices for the Res Delete X-pipe. Might just go IE if I pick the IE ECU/TCU tune.
034
IE
ECS

All of that puts me a little under $4k while I decide on the intake, but should in my estimation improve performance and handling significantly over stock. Now put me in my place

I sent this to you in PM from what you requested...but here it is for everyone

-----------------------------
-As for suspension.

Rear Sway bar is essential to control the cattywonkus ass of the C7/7.5
Tyler at TGK has a set on the market now for a decent grab, they are both solid bars front and rear
If you are a glutton for punishment, get the 034 Adjustable Rear Endlinks...if not the fixed position dogbone heavy duty are just as good. Few options there for you to choose from.

Front bars.....some people differ. Im partial to the fact you do NOT need a front bar, unless you are trying to adjust your full suspension setup....if so SOFT is your friend on the front bar.....otherwise you'll be fighting a flat front plane no matter what you do, and it will be difficult to control steer in. Your rebound response will be significantly higher, but it changes the characteristics of the front soooooo much. I also went with the ECS Adjustable front endlinks to completely remove any preload to the sway bars.

The biggest bang for the buck after sways in my honest opinion, is replacing the bushings in the LCA and Thrust Arm. You have a couple of options from anywhere of going full tilt and getting JXB Spherical Bushing inserts for the entire LCA, or going with Powerflex on the straight arm....you can also get a little wild here, and add some adjustment with offset bushings. I have Powerflex Race (Black) in the straight LCA, and notice significant rebound control and steering input.

as for the Thrust arm, I went with the BMW M-Spherical from ECS....this correlates to direct throttle response....when I am on the gas, it no longer lurches as the thrust arm compresses. As well as significant rebound from Lock to Lock steering. The added bonus to spherical, is you do NOT have to preload the suspension when you raise/lower it from the lift after maintenance. (setting the center bore of the suspension to the normal ride height) This is ONLY done if you break the bolts on the LCA and the Thrust Arms....not when you take on or off the tires (etc)

If you do NOT preload the suspension before tightening the bushings down in the LCA and Thrust Arm, you will spiral load the bushing, and cause premature wear, as well as bound suspension characteristics as the rubber has load applied to it, and wants to release it as much as possible.

The Alu-Kruez is an awesome piece, as it gives major steering response, and Lock to Lock aggressive rebound.....it really ties up the front. I scored mine used for 500....the NIB price deters me a bit, as it should be closer to I think 550-600, but it is what it is as its a one of piece and no one else is making one anymore.

The Transmission billet insert is nice for initial upgrades, and combined with the Rear Diff Upper and lower/rear inserts are crucial for the slop in the drive train. I have yet to install the JXB drive shaft carrier, but its without a doubt the best on the market.

I think thats about everything......prioritize the mods by initial reaction.....so the Billet Inserts are a driveway job and gives the best feedback feel, then swaybar(s) and endlinks, bushing replacements, then Alukruez

[MattyMarkey]

one I havent even received the kit yet.....

two

Hahaha. You owe a lot of people, a lot of money if that's the case!

[THCarpenter]

I dont owe people shit!

lol