Bad Motor Mounts - A7 Vibrations inside cab

[MikeB12D]

My A7 prestige vibrates inside, checked for bad mounts by putting the car in drive, parking brakes on, and brakes pressed, gave it some gas, and
passenger side of the engine lifts up a lot.

Now, should both motor mounts be replaced at the same time? the driver side of the engine didnt seem to move much when I tested.
How difficulty is it to remove and replace them. possible to do the driver side without disconnecting the lines etc?

[Mazen1209]

Yes, I also have an A7 and I changed both. I went with the 034 Motor sports street ones. ECS tuning usually has sales on them. They're great and haven't given me any problems. Also I believe someone one this forum has a set for sale at around $350

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[Mazen1209]

Here you go.... Member name roylok Screenshot_20230112-153041.jpg

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[MikeB12D]

Here you go.... Member name roylok Screenshot_20230112-153041.jpg

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Whats good about those mounts? Was planning on getting thm from the dealer at $240 a piece.



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[Mazen1209]

They're much stronger than the dealer ones. I had got mine replaced by the dealer when I had my warranty, then 2 years later they went bad. So these were recommended to me by a few Audi enthusiasts...

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[MikeB12D]

They're much stronger than the dealer ones. I had got mine replaced by the dealer when I had my warranty, then 2 years later they went bad. So these were recommended to me by a few Audi enthusiasts...

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Only 2 years?? Damn something else must be wrong somewhere else.

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[Mazen1209]

Nope, because since I switched them to the 034 Motor sports I haven't had a problem...4 years and still going. Listen I'm just giving you my knowledge on my experience, I'm not getting anything out of this...just trying to help like everyone else on this forum.. your call brother, good luck

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[Valpo A7]

My stock mounts lasted about 200,000 miles. They were not shot but dry rotting so I swapped them when I put the engine back in from timing chain repairs.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

My stock mounts lasted about 200,000 miles. They were not shot but dry rotting so I swapped them when I put the engine back in from timing chain repairs.

Any chance this is a DIY repair? Never really check into labor involve..


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[sepheroth86]

Mounts can be done in a few hours on a garage floor.

[Valpo A7]

Passenger side is not too bad, it will drop right out and in with the motor picked up slightly. Driver side will drop right out and back in AFTER the oil cooler is removed. Get a new gasket for the oil cooler, maybe new bolts as well. I think the book calls to replace the oil cooler bolts but I did not. You need smaller hands and 1/4 inch tools because of shitty access to the bolts.

For the mounts there are 3 bolts that hold them in, outside 2 go to the frame. Inside goes into the engine. Book calls to replace the center bolt.

[MikeB12D]

Nope, because since I switched them to the 034 Motor sports I haven't had a problem...4 years and still going. Listen I'm just giving you my knowledge on my experience, I'm not getting anything out of this...just trying to help like everyone else on this forum.. your call brother, good luck

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Thanks man, I appreciate it. Am good with oem mounts as i usually have to replace them once. Am here for the labor involve in doing the job. Trying to get some tips.

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[MikeB12D]

Passenger side is not too bad, it will drop right out and in with the motor picked up slightly. Driver side will drop right out and back in AFTER the oil cooler is removed. Get a new gasket for the oil cooler, maybe new bolts as well. I think the book calls to replace the oil cooler bolts but I did not. You need smaller hands and 1/4 inch tools because of shitty access to the bolts.

For the mounts there are 3 bolts that hold them in, outside 2 go to the frame. Inside goes into the engine. Book calls to replace the center bolt.

Do you have to drain the oil when removing oil cooler?

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[Valpo A7]

Probably need to drain the oil but honestly not sure. My engine was already empty when I did the job. Here is an overview pic with torques of the mount. I found it easier to remove part 3 to get them in and out.

The only bolt I replaced was the center bolt (#9). Be careful with the triple squares as they will slip and strip easy if you are not squared up on them with this. I slipped on 1 and buggered it up. I had to tap the socket in after that because of buggering things up.

Driver side.JPG

[MikeB12D]

Probably need to drain the oil but honestly not sure. My engine was already empty when I did the job. Here is an overview pic with torques of the mount. I found it easier to remove part 3 to get them in and out.

The only bolt I replaced was the center bolt (#9). Be careful with the triple squares as they will slip and strip easy if you are not squared up on them with this. I slipped on 1 and buggered it up. I had to tap the socket in after that because of buggering things up.

Driver side.JPG

Good info. Thanks. Do all those bolts need to come out? Or just those of part 3? On the left side, Are there any coolant hoses going through the oil cooler needing to be disconnected?

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[Valpo A7]

There are 2 coolant lines that connect to the oil cooler but I cannot remember if I took them off or not.

[MikeB12D]

I may start with replacing just the passenger side. Reading that the driver side usually isnt too worn out compare to the other side.
If it is i will do it at a later time.

Dont want to deal with draining cooland and having to bleed the system again. If its just oil drainage, i dont mind that.

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[Valpo A7]

There is no reason to drain the coolant. Just clamp the lines with these or some needle nose vice grips.

HOSE CLAMPS
https://www.amazon.com/DURATECH-Clam...NsaWNrPXRydWU=


VICE GRIPS
https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-5-Pie...%2C115&sr=8-10


If you have to drain and fill the coolant then step to a vacuum fill system. This kit works great for filling any car.

https://www.amazon.com/WIN-MAX-Engin...%2C238&sr=8-17

[MikeB12D]

@Valpo A7 thanks. I got both mounts from deal at $440 out the door for the pair.

Subframe drop or oil cooler seem to be the two ways to get the driver side out base on whay am reading. Some people managed to get it out by just raising the motor high enough but i think those were the A6. Will see how things play out as I get to it.

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[MikeB12D]

Manage to get the right side in and out, was fairly easy 30 minutes in and out. Mount is dead dead.

Driver side started good until i stripped the last bolt on the oil cooler, second on top, hard to get to.
Need some miracle to get it out. Any tips?

Screenshot_20230114_213710_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20230114_213029_Gallery.jpg

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[MikeB12D]

Update:

I managed to install both left and right mounts. I end up going the subframe route, leave the oil cooler alone. Takes too long.

If i have to do it again, both sides would take about 2 hours max. Not a bad job at all.

Summory:

You will def need at lest 2 good jacks and stands.
Once you're jacked up:

1- Remove the middle bolts from the mount to the enge on both sides.
2- Jack up and support the engine.
3- Remove the 2 bolts holding the motor mount bracket.
4- Support the subframe, then Remove the 2 sides subframe bolt on each side. Losen the 2 in the back on each side. DO NOT remove thek, just drive them out but leave them on.
5- Start lowing the subframe all the way until you can remove the motor mount out on the side above the brake rotors.

6- install new mounts in position
7- install the 2 sides motor mounts bolts
8- install the 2 motor mount bracket bottom bolts.
9- Jack up the subframe all the way. install the 2 sides bolts. Then lower then engine all the way down.
10- Installed the middle motor mount bolts.

DONE!!






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[MikeB12D]

Here are the broken mounts. Very bad.

Attachment 293319Attachment 293320Attachment 293321Attachment 29332220230115_160012.jpg

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[sepheroth86]

The oil cooler screws are aluminum.

I would have used an easy out to get that stripped one.

Either way, glad you got it done. It isn't an awful job. Keep a lookout for leaks around the oil cooler.

[MikeB12D]

The oil cooler screws are aluminum.

I would have used an easy out to get that stripped one.

Either way, glad you got it done. It isn't an awful job. Keep a lookout for leaks around the oil cooler.

Thanks. Yea def wll have a leak as i noticed a very very small oil build up after awhile.

Would the easy out work though, in that tight space?

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[sepheroth86]

They are not in too tight as I recall.

There are short easy outs available that may work a little better.

https://www.amazon.com/XEWEA-Extract...34&sr=8-8&th=1

I ended up breaking one of the aluminum fasteners upon reinstall. So I took the mount back out, lifted the engine and was able to get a right angle drill with left handed drill bit in there to remove the broken fastener.

I replaced them with steel fasteners.

[MikeB12D]

They are not in too tight as I recall.

There are short easy outs available that may work a little better.

https://www.amazon.com/XEWEA-Extract...34&sr=8-8&th=1

I ended up breaking one of the aluminum fasteners upon reinstall. So I took the mount back out, lifted the engine and was able to get a right angle drill with left handed drill bit in there to remove the broken fastener.

I replaced them with steel fasteners.

I see. Will try that if i there is a leak.
How did you remove the mount if the oil cooler wad in place? By lowering the subframe?

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[sepheroth86]

I had the oil cooler out due to it leaking.

[MikeB12D]

They are not in too tight as I recall.

There are short easy outs available that may work a little better.

https://www.amazon.com/XEWEA-Extract...34&sr=8-8&th=1

I ended up breaking one of the aluminum fasteners upon reinstall. So I took the mount back out, lifted the engine and was able to get a right angle drill with left handed drill bit in there to remove the broken fastener.

I replaced them with steel fasteners.

Do you know what type of fastener you replaced them with?

[sepheroth86]

M6x1.0

[Spitfire007]

Does the car feel better?


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[MikeB12D]

Does the car feel better?


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Hell yesss. It feels like riding in a new S-Class, so so smooth. and make it feel like it got faster.

[MikeB12D]

M6x1.0

Cool, M6x1.0x18mm it is. did you use hex head?

[sepheroth86]

Cool, M6x1.0x18mm it is. did you use hex head?

I used "allen" aka socket head cap screws.

Ideally a new set of torx would be used, but I wanted my car back together and didn't want to order some and wait.

[Valpo A7]

Allen vs Torx vs Triple Square heads really doesn't matter, The M6X1.0X18mm is what matters. They will all hold the oil cooler on.

Quite some time ago I messed up the bolts that hold the springs onto the front caliper and had to drill the heads out to get them off the car. I was able to extract the bolts but the threads in the caliper were messed up. Overdrilled the holes and tapped them for helicoils but I did not have the right thread pitch on hand for the "factory" bolts. Bought bolts from the hardware store to match my helicoils and never looked back.

[sepheroth86]

I like the torx head simply because they are less likely to strip out.

[MikeB12D]

Drove about 250 miles over 3 days , and no sign of leaks, all looks dry. I guess I got lucky. Will continue to monitor it.



20230119_151532.jpg

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[Jayskywalkers7]

My A7 prestige vibrates inside, checked for bad mounts by putting the car in drive, parking brakes on, and brakes pressed, gave it some gas, and
passenger side of the engine lifts up a lot.

Now, should both motor mounts be replaced at the same time? the driver side of the engine didnt seem to move much when I tested.
How difficulty is it to remove and replace them. possible to do the driver side without disconnecting the lines etc?

My Rs7 Vibrates a bit while idle should I change mine or is that just normal?

[MikeB12D]

My Rs7 Vibrates a bit while idle should I change mine or is that just normal?

I would inspect the mounts.. mine is mad quiet after replacing the mounts, no vibrations

Put it in drive, park brake on, give it some gas and see how the engine moves.

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