just bought, ATW. low oil press, low temp, oil intercooler.. been reading, couple ?s

[aklife]

Needed a car for wife with awd for wife in Alaska. Took a test drive, works, no lights, no noises, acquired. Story, car suffered a broke oil pan, sat for years, purchased, audi mechanic replaced pan, title change 2 mo before my purchase, was his daily car.

Wife driving on the way home hit traffic, low oil press light came on, she called and pulled over when she could. I Checked oil, fine. Texted seller, said it happened once, he checked press, was at 60.
I kept driving, ..bad oil press.. sender.. Heater was only warm, noticed, temps never left cold. Hit traffic, engine and oil temps rose a little, oil press light came on. Repeat... Parked.
Assuming, warmer oil lowers pressure and brings up warning.

Have been reading on this site quite a bit. Hearing the cam bearings as last. Compared to the pics online, under the valve cover looks better than others that were potentially ok on this site. (only clues)
Checked all cam bearings.. Visually, good. no scoring.. Plasti gauge coming? What is a Safe spec?
Developed, plan to pull the pan. title says 84k, odo shows 50k. seller said he didn't know why.

Plan to change, water pump, thermostat, temp sensor, timing belt, tensioner, oil pressure sensor, also adding electric oil pressure gauge for inside actual oil pressure.
Will check oil pickup when I get in there.

Pulled hose off intercooler, out comes around 1/2 cup (115ml) of oil or so.

Now I'm wondering is the turbo bypassing oil and lowering pressure? Is there a way to test this for leaks without running the car? Rebuild? Replace?

While I'm going in there, anything else?

Happy New Year and Thanks for Reading!! Double Thanks for answering!!

[walky_talky20]

Some oil in the intercooler is very normal. I would be worried if some oil did NOT come out. PCV breather dumps directly into Turbo Inlet Pipe. Breather system brings oil mist which collects in intercooler pipes over a long period of time.

You would only need to worry about the turbo if:
- oil is leaking through turbo bearing and your exhaust is a huge black cloud
- turbo sounds like a dentist drill
- turbo has excessive "shaft play" (axial or radial)
- you get additional 1/2 cup of oil in the intercooler pipe every week
- If turbo is leaking enough oil to cause oil pressure to drop, you will certainly be seeing clouds of smoke.

I would have hoped that the Audi mechanic fully cleaned the oil pickup screen when the pan was removed. If he was at all familiar with the 1.8T, he should definitely have done this. They can become partially clogged even with decent maintenance within 100k miles.

You plans look to be good.
- I don't think plastigauge of the cams is necessary. If they are not scored, you are good.
- It is difficult to drop the pan due to subframe being in the way.
- I would change oil pressure sender, install your dashboard oil pressure gauge, then decide about dropping the pan.

NOTE:
Oil pressure warning system is dependent on Coolant Temperature! This could be your issue!
- Oil pressure switch is very high-threshold (17-23 psi or so). This is meant to give "early warnings" before the engine is actually junk.
- Oil pressure warning system is fully active when engine is cold (below 60C coolant temp).
- When engine is warm (60C+ coolant temp), oil pressure is expected to be below switch threshold at low RPMs.
- Therefore Oil Pressure Warning System is entirely disabled below 1500 RPM when coolant temp is above 60C.
- If your coolant temp sensor is faulty and engine is reading "cold" but engine is *actually* warm, then you may get a pressure warning in error when below 1500 rpm.
- Warning system should be off, but it remains on due to incorrect coolant temp information.

[aklife]

@walky_talky20 Organized, Detailed, Comprehensive, Answers!! where can I smash a thank you button?

Read about it off below 1500rpm, but didn't pick up on it needing to be above 60C. I'd guess it doesn't get above 60C, maybe, possibly not.

Proceeding onward. I'll update later, with useful info or minimally useful info, just so there's and outcome.

[RallyeBourne]

Your coolant should absolutely be getting above 60°C. That’s only 140°F. The thermostat doesn’t even open until 187°F.

I think I’d second walky’s thoughts on the Coolant Temp Sensor. They can cause a lot of odd behavior when they go wonky. And it’s an easy, cheap fix, albeit a little tough to reach if you have sausage fingers like me.

As for the odometer being off, a previous owner probably swapped the cluster. The center screen is known for going bad, so they probably swapped the cluster out for one with a working screen. My reg says like 134k miles as of 2011, and it was parked in a field from 2012-2022. Dash says 236k. Lol.


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[aklife]

Update. removed front, looking underneath found missing bolts and a couple loose ones..
Pulled the pan to have a look, just in case. Found thin and thicker metal and plastic parts from the splash tray in the pan and numerous slivers of metal in the oil pickup.
The plastic parts could have reduced oil intake flow before metal arrived, i'm suspecting.

Pulled connecting rod caps and measured bearings. They are looking warn, but crank looks fine.
top and bottom thickness of bearing halve at mid point.
1 0.052" 0.052"
2 0.051" 0.051"
3 0.051" 0.052"
4 0.052" 0.052"

I don't know where the metal came from? Any Ideas?
I have a few questions I couldn't find.
Thickness of a standard bearing? Specs page link also works.
It seems unlikely the main bearing are shedding, as the connecting rods bearing are not terrible, I can't think of anywhere else the metal came from..
so.. it seems necessary to pull the main caps while in the car. If I do, can I replace the bearings in the car, it's an auto trans.? (don't have a lift)

I read that Audi has different spec thickness bearings, where can I find these?
Read about TTY bolts on later models. Are these TTY conrod bolts and TTY main bolts?

Would like to upload pics, but it's asking for link. please advise if helpful. Thanks!

[cactus_cars]

Following this thread. Going to be rebuilding soon. Definitely recommend running thick Rotella T6 5W-40 once you get it back together. Might need to be different for alaskan climate.

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[Blazius]

You can run 10W oil even unless you literally live in a freezer, but you know being in Alaska.
Rod and main bolts are TTY yes technically but I dont think many replace the conrod bolts/nuts. Being an ATW 058 block you actually have the stronger rods with the studs with nuts not bolts holding the conrod cap on.

[aklife]

I must express my gratitude for all of the efforts of everyone here in posting their processes and details. I found everything here, didn't use a manual.

Here is the outcome..

Used one then two 4x4s over the top of the engine, supported on each end with a 2x4 on the fender flange. Used 3 cheap straps, to lift and rotate side to side.

Jacked up car, pulled bumper away, lowered suspension, pulled oil pan. Found rubbed and rolled metal in the bottom. Pulled rod bearings, ok, checked main bearings, front, second and middle, all rubbed and left marks on the crank. 4th ok. Couldn't get the 5th cap off, rear seal in the way. So I added the second 4x4. Lifted the front of the engine, braced the trans, Separated, pulled rear main, it was ok. Should anyone end up in the same situation. Since the oil pump is at the back, and the 4th bearing was ok, the 5th will probably be ok. Since the crank was out, polished the bearing material off, checked for roundness, good. After finding all the parts. Installed. Used plasti-gauge verified oem spec on bearings. Replaced rear main seal, Oil pump, main and rod bearings, main bolts new, rod bolts reused, yeah I know, risk on me ordered wrong ones. Used the three straps to rotate and align it into place, reconnected to trans. replaced front main seal, used, drill to preprime the oil, then installed the timing belt, belt tensioner, and rear cam chain tensioner also, replaced, water pump, and thermostat and water temp sensor, also rebuilt the turbo due to possible seepage and concern over low oil pressure. Ordered couple m10x1 adapter to 1/4npt for oil pressure, but chinese parts were tapered, so purchase a m10 metric bolt cut off shank, tapped threaded and drilled, installed an oil pressure sender to know the pressure below 2000 rpm. Seems unfortunate you can have an oil starved car and not know until you revved above 2k. Used mobil 1 euro oil and filter.

Results are in.
Oil pressure cold 35. Engine warmed up to full temp 17 or so psi at idle. At 2k, warm around 30-35 psi. peak around 50psi at 5k.
Turbo seems sluggish, at this point not caring a lot. Hope it breaks in and spools quicker. It only took a month to get all the parts and kinda figure out a new engine.

If anyone is still watching. I'm slightly interested in a tuner primarily to tune the transmission shifts if available. Mostly want to lock up the torque converter quicker to make it feel more like a stick especially in 5th gear.
It's more economical than my duramax and easier to park.

[cactus_cars]

I must express my gratitude for all of the efforts of everyone here in posting their processes and details. I found everything here, didn't use a manual.

Here is the outcome..

Used one then two 4x4s over the top of the engine, supported on each end with a 2x4 on the fender flange. Used 3 cheap straps, to lift and rotate side to side.

Jacked up car, pulled bumper away, lowered suspension, pulled oil pan. Found rubbed and rolled metal in the bottom. Pulled rod bearings, ok, checked main bearings, front, second and middle, all rubbed and left marks on the crank. 4th ok. Couldn't get the 5th cap off, rear seal in the way. So I added the second 4x4. Lifted the front of the engine, braced the trans, Separated, pulled rear main, it was ok. Should anyone end up in the same situation. Since the oil pump is at the back, and the 4th bearing was ok, the 5th will probably be ok. Since the crank was out, polished the bearing material off, checked for roundness, good. After finding all the parts. Installed. Used plasti-gauge verified oem spec on bearings. Replaced rear main seal, Oil pump, main and rod bearings, main bolts new, rod bolts reused, yeah I know, risk on me ordered wrong ones. Used the three straps to rotate and align it into place, reconnected to trans. replaced front main seal, used, drill to preprime the oil, then installed the timing belt, belt tensioner, and rear cam chain tensioner also, replaced, water pump, and thermostat and water temp sensor, also rebuilt the turbo due to possible seepage and concern over low oil pressure. Ordered couple m10x1 adapter to 1/4npt for oil pressure, but chinese parts were tapered, so purchase a m10 metric bolt cut off shank, tapped threaded and drilled, installed an oil pressure sender to know the pressure below 2000 rpm. Seems unfortunate you can have an oil starved car and not know until you revved above 2k. Used mobil 1 euro oil and filter.

Results are in.
Oil pressure cold 35. Engine warmed up to full temp 17 or so psi at idle. At 2k, warm around 30-35 psi. peak around 50psi at 5k.
Turbo seems sluggish, at this point not caring a lot. Hope it breaks in and spools quicker. It only took a month to get all the parts and kinda figure out a new engine.

If anyone is still watching. I'm slightly interested in a tuner primarily to tune the transmission shifts if available. Mostly want to lock up the torque converter quicker to make it feel more like a stick especially in 5th gear.
It's more economical than my duramax and easier to park.

Thanks soo much for this post. I still need to rebuid my AEB badly, a rod knock appeared one day randomly.

Just need the motivation and finding a good shop to clean up the crank most likely. Figured out that the P/O starved my car of oil a few times after investigating the situation a bit further. Sucks, really. I had just got the car running perfectly for the first time in over two years.

Thanks for the update!

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