Cerwin Vega Spare Tire Subwoofer

[B_Boy]

Just curious, why Cerwin Vega vs similar system such as JBL BassPro Hub? JBL version is 200 watts RMS vs 150 for CV...

[Local]

I went with the diamond audio. I think it's more about the type than the individual unit.

[jcoleman_11]

Just curious, why Cerwin Vega vs similar system such as JBL BassPro Hub? JBL version is 200 watts RMS vs 150 for CV...

Fitment. The JBL is too tall.

Cerwin Vega and Diamond audio are the only ones, as far as I’m aware, that make a shallow version that fits.


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[troystg]

I'm visiting in L.A. and for the fun of it yesterday I wrote Diamond Audio and asked if I could pickup the shallow spar tire sub. To my surprise they said sure and put me in contact with Gary to arrange payment and pickup. This afternoon I rode to downtown L.A. ( the gritty area) and picked it up. I can't wait to install it!

Not saying he can do the same for shipped units, but he did give me a cut on the list price.

If you need one write him and inquire before you go to Amazon...

[email protected]

[Local]

while youre there hitup praneal for the connector wire. It really makes everything so much easier.


Just wanted to edit to add:

To anyone thinking of doing this mod to your B&O sound system - this has been my second favorite mod (behind the tune) that I have done. It really makes the whole sound system SO MUCH better.

Plus, its so easy that someone like me (who has zero electrical knowledge) can do on their own.

The only issues I had was running the bass control knob (and eventually that was accomplished) - and - if you run the sub at a "loud" volume on a SUPER hot day and have a bunch of stuff in your trunk - eventually it will over heat.

All I had to do was remove the large amount of stuff from my trunk to my back seat to get some air flow and then it didn't happen again - and to the subs credit it was like 100+ out there that day.

So if you are on the fence, the whole set of parts costs under 1,000 bucks (including the dyno mat i purchased that I kinda went crazy with, behind the license plates, under the trunk, under the rear seat, etc).

I've been thinking about doing the door speakers and tweeters but honestly the system sounds so good there doesn't seem to be a point.

regards,

[iampraneel]

Updated links.

[FFM]

Has anyone opted for the passive sub? It has a much higher RMS handling, which should yield even more thump, while staying pretty clean. Also have to assume whatever amplifier you choose is going to be much higher quality than diamonds.

[cmil527]

are these subs powered or do you need a separate amp?

[A4Maine-iac]

They are powered. They replace the spare tire Sub.

[FFM]

are these subs powered or do you need a separate amp?

You have either option, which is why I asked about the passive. The sub is rated for much higher RMS compared to the powered unit. Im not an expert but I’d have to imagine the passive with a quality amp will produce more punch and cleaner quality.

[jc.gonzalezcolo]

Has anyone opted for the passive sub? It has a much higher RMS handling, which should yield even more thump, while staying pretty clean. Also have to assume whatever amplifier you choose is going to be much higher quality than diamonds.

I did. I went with Kicker Key 500. Sounds awesome!

[FFM]

And the wild thing is you could have gone with the CXA800 since the passive DMD is 4ohm DVC which would double your RMS lol. I’m super tempted to push that passive to see how much that little fella can pound.

[CloseEncounters]

I went with the Diamond Audio DASTX12 spare tire sub and the Audio Control LC2i Pro Line Output Controller (required if you've got the B&O system). This was after upgrading all four doors and the rear deck speakers along with the dash midrange speakers and still not being very pleased with the sound. The Bass is now amazing and exactly what I've always wanted it...the ability to adjust Bass while driving was also a real bonus. The speakers, Subs and LCU all ran about $1k. I installed everything myself, so I had no concerns on the material cost after hearing how the system sounded afterwards.

[Gunnarrrrr]

I went with the Diamond Audio DASTX12 spare tire sub and the Audio Control LC2i Pro Line Output Controller (required if you've got the B&O system). This was after upgrading all four doors and the rear deck speakers along with the dash midrange speakers and still not being very pleased with the sound. The Bass is now amazing and exactly what I've always wanted it...the ability to adjust Bass while driving was also a real bonus. The speakers, Subs and LCU all ran about $1k. I installed everything myself, so I had no concerns on the material cost after hearing how the system sounded afterwards.

same. except kicker dvc 12” and a key500 amp. I replaced all 19 speakers in my car. also ran about $1k (the sub and amp being most of the cost). Sounds amazing. stock b&o is unlistenable once you’ve heard this.


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[Pedal_power]

Found a great deal on the Diamond Audio DASTX12 courtesy of Facebook Marketplace and now I am just waiting on Praneel's wiring harness. Can't wait to add some thump to the family wagon! Thanks to everyone who contributed to this helpful thread.

[Local]

Found a great deal on the Diamond Audio DASTX12 courtesy of Facebook Marketplace and now I am just waiting on Praneel's wiring harness. Can't wait to add some thump to the family wagon! Thanks to everyone who contributed to this helpful thread.

Like everyone else said, you are gonna love it!

Nothing sounds better.

[Pedal_power]

Completed the preliminary installation last night - despite the -2C temperatures - and the system bumps pretty good.

It’s amazing how much better the front end sounds when unburdened by being asked the produce significant bass. In MMI, I was able to turn the bass and sub settings to neutral, set the sub low pass to ~80Hz, and tweaked the gains on the LC2i as per the manual.

The result is a more open and cohesive sound stage (even with the stock speakers) and the bass now sounds low, controlled, and loud when you want it. The mushiness and boominess of the stock B&O sub is just a memory.

I still have to apply sound deadening and clean up my ugly wiring, but I’ll wait for warm weather before digging in again.

Thanks Praneel for the wiring harness and to those who contributed to the thread. Awesome stuff!

[Local]

Glad you are loving it!

Did you use the bass knob from the l2ci or from the subwoofer? I ended up using the knob from the L2ci and I ran it to the steering column.

I keep thinking about upgrading the door speakers - but after doing all the dynomat (under the rear seat, around the subwoofer unit, and most importantly on the back of my rear license plate) my system actually sounds pretty excellent.

Maybe when I have some extra time and money - but for now the extra rewards just don't seem worth it.

This is coming from a guy that spent close to 10k on his audio system in his WRX. JL, pheonix gold, boston acoustics, everywhere.

I personally think this style subwoofer upgrade is the best bang for you buck upgrade you can do on the SQ5 - other than a stage 1 ECU flash.

[Pedal_power]

Funny you bring up the bass knob - I had the same debate. I wound up using the bass controller from the subwoofer.

I can’t imagine it would matter which one was used, but perhaps someone more knowledgeable will chime in if I’m wrong.

Regardless, it works great. With the adjuster all the way left, the sub is almost off. When it is cranked up to 11, there is a TON of bass. Too much to blend cleanly…but it’s fun.

The sub doesn’t go super deep, but sounds pretty darned punchy for what it is. Huge value for the dollar.

Agreed that the stock speakers sound decent enough that there is no more money that needs to be spent.

Did you wind up tweaking the Accubass settings on the LC2i? I haven’t played with that yet.

The tailgate and licence plate are vibrating significantly at this point, but I’ll wait for warmer weather to button down the wiring and add Dynamat.

[jc.gonzalezcolo]

Glad you are loving it!

Did you use the bass knob from the l2ci or from the subwoofer? I ended up using the knob from the L2ci and I ran it to the steering column.

I keep thinking about upgrading the door speakers - but after doing all the dynomat (under the rear seat, around the subwoofer unit, and most importantly on the back of my rear license plate) my system actually sounds pretty excellent.

Maybe when I have some extra time and money - but for now the extra rewards just don't seem worth it.

This is coming from a guy that spent close to 10k on his audio system in his WRX. JL, pheonix gold, boston acoustics, everywhere.

I personally think this style subwoofer upgrade is the best bang for you buck upgrade you can do on the SQ5 - other than a stage 1 ECU flash.

Try these..you will not regret it. It truly brings the highs to a whome new level

https://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-4fe32-4-neodymium-professional-full-range-woofer-8-ohm--294-1121

[Gunnarrrrr]

Try these..you will not regret it. It truly brings the highs to a whome new level

https://www.parts-express.com/faital...-ohm--294-1121

for me, the biggest improvement to the highs was more efficient tweeters. absolute game changer. although I did have to make a ton of adapters to make them plug&play. nothing a little 3D printing and aliexpress connectors couldn’t fix



those faitalpros are nice, I ended up doing peerless gbs’s for my doors and center and d pillars, required some printed spacers so they wouldn’t contact the grille. make sure you do the center to match the doors, it’ll sound all weird if you don’t. but yeah, doing the midranges is def the most noticeable upgrade you could do. the upper mids sound amazing and clear now and im sure yours are even better.




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[jc.gonzalezcolo]

for me, the biggest improvement to the highs was more efficient tweeters. absolute game changer. although I did have to make a ton of adapters to make them plug&play. nothing a little 3D printing and aliexpress connectors couldn’t fix



those faitalpros are nice, I ended up doing peerless gbs’s for my doors and center and d pillars, required some printed spacers so they wouldn’t contact the grille. make sure you do the center to match the doors, it’ll sound all weird if you don’t. but yeah, doing the midranges is def the most noticeable upgrade you could do. the upper mids sound amazing and clear now and im sure yours are even better.




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Those are the same tweeters I got, but have not gotten the time to mess with mounting them. Any chance you got the file for those 3D printed mounts? Willing to buy if need be. It'll save me plenty of time! Those peerless are awesome. Had them on my S5.

[Local]

are you guys using an aftermarket amp for your speakers? or just running them off the factory amp?

I would probably do a crossover and 500 amp with as many channels as speakers if I was going to do the speakers.... unless it really wasn't needed?

[Gunnarrrrr]

are you guys using an aftermarket amp for your speakers? or just running them off the factory amp?

I would probably do a crossover and 500 amp with as many channels as speakers if I was going to do the speakers.... unless it really wasn't needed?

aftermarket amp isn't possible. Well, technically there's one solution out there to bypass the B&O, not really sure it works, I'm gonna just say its not possible. Tuning it with your own crossovers and by picking the right speakers for the sound you want is a lot easier. Also the B&O is plenty loud. I used a kicker key500 for the sub, that's it.

Those are the same tweeters I got, but have not gotten the time to mess with mounting them. Any chance you got the file for those 3D printed mounts? Willing to buy if need be. It'll save me plenty of time! Those peerless are awesome. Had them on my S5.

I'll send them over, just need to dig them up. I did this over a year ago. Just don't go selling them or anything lol

might need a tweak or two, the rear door tweeter adapters ended up fitting a little loose if I remember correctly, I think I just siliconed it though. Those little tabs I left on some of them also were meant to be folded over to secure the driver, I used my soldering iron on low temp and they're locked in.

[jc.gonzalezcolo]

I'll send them over, just need to dig them up. I did this over a year ago. Just don't go selling them or anything lol

might need a tweak or two, the rear door tweeter adapters ended up fitting a little loose if I remember correctly, I think I just siliconed it though. Those little tabs I left on some of them also were meant to be folded over to secure the driver, I used my soldering iron on low temp and they're locked in.[/QUOTE]

Awesome! Don't worry...I am not selling, but if sharing os OK...id definitely pay it forward. Thank you!!!

[jc.gonzalezcolo]

[/QUOTE]I'll send them over, just need to dig them up. I did this over a year ago. Just don't go selling them or anything lol

might need a tweak or two, the rear door tweeter adapters ended up fitting a little loose if I remember correctly, I think I just siliconed it though. Those little tabs I left on some of them also were meant to be folded over to secure the driver, I used my soldering iron on low temp and they're locked in.[/QUOTE]

Awesome! Don't worry...I am not selling, but if sharing os OK...id definitely pay it forward. Thank you!!!

[siren0001]

Hi, anyone care to show their B&O and Lc2i Pro settings? I tuned mine but could never get the maximize light nor the accbase to ight up....

[Spiff69]

All these subs are ported, right? I have the Cerwin Vega and it's a great improvement, but doesn't sound as tight as a sub in a sealed enclosure. There is no such thing for the spare tire well, right? Any comments on the Cerwin Vega vs. Diamond Audio?

[jcoleman_11]

Hi, anyone care to show their B&O and Lc2i Pro settings? I tuned mine but could never get the maximize light nor the accbase to ight up....

Here’s what I have them set to.


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[A4Maine-iac]

Here’s what I have them set to.


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Any chance you have a wider shot. Just want to see the wiring as well.

[jcoleman_11]

Any chance you have a wider shot. Just want to see the wiring as well.

I don't, sorry, but wiring is straight forward, the connectors are labeled.

[czechm8]

Great info!

[siren0001]

So I am using the 12v outlet as my remote but when my car start stops I hear a pop on the sub. Any idea?

[Gunnarrrrr]

that sir is the sound of your amp turning on and off


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[siren0001]

So it’s a bit strange, I hear base when the car auto Start stop is off, ie The engine is On standby. Then when it comes out of the auto start stop, and I push the gas I hear a pop.
So I’m not sure if the 12 V line I’m using stay on when the car is on. Any idea of another location for 12 V that is not affected by the Automatic start stop

[Gunnarrrrr]

So it’s a bit strange, I hear base when the car auto Start stop is off, ie The engine is On standby. Then when it comes out of the auto start stop, and I push the gas I hear a pop.
So I’m not sure if the 12 V line I’m using stay on when the car is on. Any idea of another location for 12 V that is not affected by the Automatic start stop

there’s a big fuse panel behind the removable left panel in the trunk, you’ll need to do some poking around with a multimeter. I use a kicker key500 amp that has DC offset detection to turn it on, so I don’t have this problem. When I previously used ignition power to turn on my amp, I had the same issue with auto start stop cutting my amp.


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[siren0001]

[QUOTE=jcoleman_11;15073709
Here’s what I have them set to.


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Are you running a B&O or without B&O?

[siren0001]

there’s a big fuse panel behind the removable left panel in the trunk, you’ll need to do some poking around with a multimeter. I use a kicker key500 amp that has DC offset detection to turn it on, so I don’t have this problem. When I previously used ignition power to turn on my amp, I had the same issue with auto start stop cutting my amp.


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Let me take some look at the fuze panel, unless anyone know of one and can save me the time.

right now I turned it to sound GTO sound detect even though I got the B&O until I can find a better 12v some time this week.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Let me take some look at the fuze panel, unless anyone know of one and can save me the time.

right now I turned it to sound GTO sound detect even though I got the B&O until I can find a better 12v some time this week.

I have B&O

try C6. it should be empty, you’ll need a crimp terminal or to grab a repair wire with the correct terminal and pop it in, and add a fuse there. Then you’ll have a dedicated +12 switched. At least I think it’s switched, might need to confirm it with a multimeter. It’s what I used for my TPMS module. I could be totally wrong and you might need to poke around if that one turns out to not be switched, there’s plenty of empty fuse locations in that panel.


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[Local]

I've used the 12v connector in the trunk on the right side for years. never had a problem with start stop - though to be fair mine is always off by tune.

Its never made a popping noise or anything else though.