No start

[Fiction1990]

Parked the car last night, came out this morning and crank no start. My fans come on as soon a i turn the key on and i cannot connect to the ecm. It's acting like my son's car when his ecm went bad, so i swapped with another working one and it's same thing. I checked fuses and they are all good. Where do i go next?

[EuroxS4]

Is there any water in the floor or the ebox??

[Fiction1990]

No and no signs of any

[Mike Tries]

Perhaps this is a dumb question, because I know you swapped ECMs around, but did you unplug the battery at all? Is it possible that some other module is doing something weird that is causing the car to fail to start, and a reset might straighten it out?

[Fiction1990]

I had not tried that, but i just did and did not make a difference.

[Cybersombosis]

When you have the key in the on position, is the check engine light on?

[Fiction1990]

No

[Fiction1990]

I know the relay labeled 219 is ignition, does it have anything to do with dlc?

[Cybersombosis]

That means your ECU is not getting power and will not allow your car to start. I’d change the fuse in slot 29 and try again. At the very least check for continuity on the fuse. If that fails then turn the ignition on and check for power on the battery side of slot 29 to make sure you are getting power to that circuit. If not then it is something to do with the ignition relay.

[EuroxS4]

Check all your fuses including ones marked engine management. check Ebox and ecm relays in the ebox.

[Fiction1990]

OK i will try that. I swapped i think it's j271 (relay labeled 219) and that didn't change anything.

[Fiction1990]

Are any of the relays under the dash related to any of this?

[Cybersombosis]

Have you checked power at the fuse box yet?

[Fiction1990]

I just visually checked fuses, i didn't have my dmm until today. I know dlc is working cause i can connect to all the other modules.

[Fiction1990]

OK i checked for power. I have power at #29 & 43, but no power at 32 & 34. Also after the key has been off for a couple minutes i get a cel for about 7 sec, if i turn the key off and wait about 20sec turn the key back on i don't get the cel at all. And sometimes the fans stay on after the ignition is off, until i cycle the ignition.

[Cybersombosis]

I suspect a bad ECU if you are getting power to fuse 29.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post14873656

[Fiction1990]

I swapped with a spare i had that was working when i took it out. Still same result... I'm sure it's something stupid I'm missing, but all the symptoms in my mind point to ecm, but 2 of them bad and just all of a sudden?

[Fiction1990]

Are there any other relays to check, I've already swapped 219.

[Cybersombosis]

When you swapped the spare, does the CEL illuminate in the on position? Does it start for a second then die? Or just crank and no start?

[Fiction1990]

Still crank no start. With the original is when the cel comes on real quick, but then it goes out and the fans come on.

[Cybersombosis]

Help us walky_talky, you’re our only hope.

[Fiction1990]

Ok not sure if I made progress or not. I followed some electrical troubleshooting on Alldata. Everything checked out except one step. Check on connector 3 terminal 8 to terminal 1 and should be 0 volts, I had 12v. reading further into the instructions it said coil harness. So, I disconnected the coil harness (which I have been having problems with) and checked to see if I had a CEL on the dash, I did not. For sh*^ & giggles I tried the other ECM and guess what, I had a CEL and was able to read the ECM. I pulled codes and had codes for coils (obviously, they were still disconnected) and a P0601 internal checksum memory. I had to run an errand and when I came back, I decided to try the other ECM again with the coils unplugged and dice, so I swapped ECMs again and no dice on the one I connected to 30 min before. So now I'm not sure if I have 2 bad ECMs that my coilpack wires burned up or what. Any new thoughts and is it even possible for the coilpack or wiring to fry the ECM?

[old guy]

It sounds to me like you have an intermittent short somewhere in your ignition harness. My suggestion would be to replace the complete harness Clicky click . Here is a thread with a lot of info. Clicky click Replace the harness along with the engine management fuses 29, 32, 34 and 43 and go from there.

And yes, it is possible that you fried both ECM's.

[APC123]

Crank position sensor

[EuroxS4]

Why don't we do the smart thing and change the blown engine management fuse you have and fix the coil pack harness thats shorted. Also please ditch sumdata for something more reliable and trust worthy just my opinion. Sumdata blows.

[Fiction1990]

I don't have any blown fuses. I agree it sucks, but that is what I had access to. I haven't had a chance to fix there harness or pick up another ECM yet

[EuroxS4]

How were the fuses checked?

[Fiction1990]

Test light power on both sides.

[walky_talky20]

In for pics of coil harness carnage.

[zaroug02]

1- Check relay 219 in ECU Box
2- Check or clean Fuse 29
3- Check or clean fuse 32
4- Check or clean fuse 34

[zaroug02]

Clean the ECU Pin , i think the wiring connection from ECU disconnected temperature sensor and ignition coils ,, .

[Fiction1990]

Been a while since I posted about this, been busy at work. Finally changed out the cool harness and swapped ECM, starts and did due to immo.
Need opinions, would it be easier to swap eeprom from one of my burner up ECM with immo off, or try and vag commander it out?PXL_20230304_001731665.jpgPXL_20230304_001430721.jpg

[Cybersombosis]

If you have Vag K Commander and the proper cable, that is way easier than desoldering. There is zero chance of you screwing up as their is no writing involved with getting the SKC. Follow the directions on the below link to get the SKC. Of note, you will need the SKC for both the old and new ECU so don’t forget to get it before taking the old ECU out.

https://sites.google.com/site/imnuts/

Then follow the directions at 3:25 of the below video to adapt your old SKC to the new ECU. I believe you don’t need to adapt your keys with an ECU swap. Only when the cluster is swapped.

[Fiction1990]

Old ECU is dead, can not read anything from it. It was also immo off.

[Gin+]

Disabling the immobilizer on these ecus is pretty well documented on nefmoto. All you really need is a cheap k-line cable and a windows computer.

[walky_talky20]

If old ECU is dead, use K Commander to rip the SKC out of the cluster directly, then. Then rip the SKC from the new ECU. Program. Done.

Doesn't IMMO OFF still leave you with the cluster freaking out? I didn't think that was an actual solution to anything other than emergency driving the car home, or engine swapping into something else (abandoning the cluster), etc.

[grayjay]

If old ECU is dead, use K Commander to rip the SKC out of the cluster directly, then. Then rip the SKC from the new ECU. Program. Done.

Doesn't IMMO OFF still leave you with the cluster freaking out? I didn't think that was an actual solution to anything other than emergency driving the car home, or engine swapping into something else (abandoning the cluster), etc.

So long as the key transponder chip is already paired to the cluster, the cluster immobilizer function will continue to work fine with the ECUs immobilizer turned off. The ECU immobilizer just functions to shut off the engine to keep it from running. Triggering just the cluster immobilizer with an unpaired key causes hazard warning lights to flash, throws shows immobilizer error on the cluster screen and locks out the HVAC control but the car will still run and drive. The one limitation of having the ECU immobilizer off (besides having car stolen) is that you will not be able to pair any new key transponders to the cluster. Both the ECU and Cluster immobilizers need to be on and have matching SKC in order to adapt a new key.

[Gin+]

The one limitation of having the ECU immobilizer off (besides having car stolen) is that you will not be able to pair any new key transponders to the cluster. Both the ECU and Cluster immobilizers need to be on and have matching SKC in order to adapt a new key.

True, I found this out the hard way.

[grayjay]

Disabling the immobilizer on these ecus is pretty well documented on nefmoto. All you really need is a cheap k-line cable and a windows computer.

Clarification; In addition to k-line cable, in order to set immobilizer off the ECU need to be triggered to boot mode (inner case opened up) and connected to k-line cable and PC via a bench harness and power supply.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-your-me7-ecu?
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/foru...ic=417.0title=

Unlike the tuning file, Nefmoto tools do not allow for re-flashing via the OBDII port while ECU is installed in car for the separate ECU EEPROM .bin file where the immobilizer off is set and where the SKC is stored. (functionality disabled intentionally to prevent easy defeat of anti-theft security from the OBDII port). With bench harness connection and boot mode triggered, the ECU immo can be turned off using the tools and documentation from nefmoto.

[grayjay]

True, I found this out the hard way.

Same here, I had a new spare key cut that fits the locks but I cannot get it adapted to the cluster until I go back and re-enable the ECU immobilizer that I had turned off for a replacement ECU. Still nice to have the spare physical key available, I'de once managed to lock my only key inside the car and had to fish it via the window seal using a long piece of wire. I was just very lucky that the key was in-view and had a ring attached that I could grab with wire hook to retrieve.