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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 07 2022
    AZ Member #
    778954
    Location
    Eagle, Co

    Engine assembly/ head install question

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    Hi guys-
    Merry Christmas! I’m starting on the reassembly of my motor with rebuilt heads. I’d like to make sure I’m on the right path:
    When I align the round indentation in the crankshaft with the crank lock bolt, my #3 cylinder is at TDC (passenger side rear cylinder). I have not installed the crank serpentine pulley not the plastic cover with timing marks to verify they align.
    When I go to install the heads, how should I time the cams to align with motor- do I check the cam sprocket keys that engage the cam locking tool? If so, how do I make sure the cams aren’t 180 off?
    I wish I had a good manual for this car!
    Thanks
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings PwrWgn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2013
    AZ Member #
    123136
    Location
    Seattle

    The cam locking bar will only go on with the cams at the correct 'TDC' position. This is because the cam sprocket washers themselves are keyed to the cams (flat part of the circle) as well as the cam bar (pins that are two different diameters.)

    I like to get the cams adjusted while the crank is actually turned about 60deg before TDC mark. There is a slot in the crank you can see thru the lock pin hole that corresponds to this position. At this crank position, the pistons are all low enough in the bores that there is no chance of valve contact even if you have to spin the cams all the way around. Your cam lock bar should go on to the cams very easily if the cam phase is just right. If it doesn't, then make very small cam adjustments until it does


    Once I get cams set and bar installed, i then bring the crank forward (clockwise from front) slowly and install the crank pin.

    Only then should you proceed with tensioning the belt and seating the cam sprockets. Note the requirement to apply torque at belt pivot roller in order to "pretension" the belt.

    Bentley manual is pretty well circulated as a series of foldered pdfs on here for zero cost. The Bentley material is pretty much the same as ELSA (dealer service tool) except some sections a bit less thorough.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings ShelbyM3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 05 2007
    AZ Member #
    15417
    My Garage
    Alpaca 2002 Allroad 2.7T Auto 3rd Row, Avus Silver Oxblood 2003 S8, Silver Metallic 2004 Allroad V8
    Location
    Portland, OR

    Engine assembly/ head install question

    https://youtu.be/tdVAVB7114w

    https://youtu.be/ZiZvO1UOOu8

    Here is a link to help give a visual. Perfect timing for me, I just asked this question in the C4/C5 forum. My one response said don’t worry about retarding the crank. PwrWgn, do you consider that a must? Bank 1 jumped a little on me during camshaft install so my plan was to grab the lock bar and advance Bank 1 the 30 degrees, maybe, and then lock them in. Bank 2 is good. Yeah!?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Silverex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 13 2018
    AZ Member #
    431034
    Location
    Ocean city NJ

    Quote Originally Posted by ShelbyM3 View Post
    https://youtu.be/tdVAVB7114w

    https://youtu.be/ZiZvO1UOOu8

    Here is a link to help give a visual. Perfect timing for me, I just asked this question in the C4/C5 forum. My one response said don’t worry about retarding the crank. PwrWgn, do you consider that a must? Bank 1 jumped a little on me during camshaft install so my plan was to grab the lock bar and advance Bank 1 the 30 degrees, maybe, and then lock them in. Bank 2 is good. Yeah!?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    It’s normal for the cams to spring back sometimes. As long as it’s close I don’t worry about it and leave the crank at TDC and line cams back up.


    OP: what I did was get the cams timed best I could on the bench using the lock bar as reference. Then put them on the block with crank pin
    installed, put lock bar back on and turn the cams as needed. When done spin engine slowly and make sure it spins over freely.

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 07 2022
    AZ Member #
    778954
    Location
    Eagle, Co

    Thanks guys I appreciate it!

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 07 2022
    AZ Member #
    778954
    Location
    Eagle, Co

    A follow-up question: is the crank lock pin stout enough to hold the crank while removing the front crankshaft bolt? Seems sketchy…

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings PwrWgn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2013
    AZ Member #
    123136
    Location
    Seattle

    Quote Originally Posted by Hmh800 View Post
    A follow-up question: is the crank lock pin stout enough to hold the crank while removing the front crankshaft bolt? Seems sketchy…
    Yes, it is supposed to be. I don't know which lock pin you have but I've used the same one for many installs & removals and it is holding up well. Long as it is steel and fits well you should be fine.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings PwrWgn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2013
    AZ Member #
    123136
    Location
    Seattle

    ...and regarding the crank retard 60 degress thing: I agree it can be done without this step but it does provide more peace of mind and really isn't much extra effort. I find the cams to be pretty snappy/jumpy.

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