Audi A4 B6 1.8T cam chain jumped 1 tooth? Or good?

[Tommy5150]

Hi guys,

Car is 2002 Audi A4 B6 1.8T 110kW Petrol engine code AVJ.

Am new to this forum this being my first post. I've read many posts here that have helped me allot so just want to give a big thank you to everyone contributing to this forum :) Have normally work on VW's Golf's but this is my first Audi.

my issues are car starting on 3rd attempt sometimes 2nd sometimes 5th. Once started engine runs pretty smooth, bit of a wobble on idle with the revs going up and down only very very slightly. Under power car is a bit sluggish on low RPM, once higher turbo kicks in fine. Fuel consumption a bit off. Trying to solve a P0431 cam sensor fault. Driving me absolutely crazy. No other faults with VCDS.

License Plate: AUDIA4S406.12

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Address 01: Engine Labels: 06B-906-018-AVJ.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 909 518 M HW: 8E0 909 018
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002
Software Coding: 0011501
Work Shop Code: WSC 63351 000 00000
VCID: 3A2D32F5104C670B817-5160
1 Fault Found

16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P0341 - 004 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON

Readiness: 0000 1001

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Camshaft adjustment status "Cam Ctr off" on MB 91 & 92. So no communication. Cables fine measured ok on all cables to cam / crank sensor.

Changed cam sensor / crank sensor with no avail. Check oil level looks just under half on dip stick. No alert for low oil. Last service was done about 3k km ago changed oil, spark plugs, filter etc.. (not by me i just bought the car)

Check cam sensor plate which is good not bent or anything.

All timing marks line up on Cam crank pulley.

Took rocker cover off to check to see if timing chain on cam jumped a tooth to deactivate cam sensor, by everything I read including workshop manuals I think its fine. Looks as though it has the 16 pins in between. Thats to say if I counted it right. Can someone have a look at the attached photo and confirm this please?

Seeing as though I've changed and check everything I'm thinking of changing the chain tensioner to see if it resolves this issue (have read they can be worn out sometimes), looking at the pic of it does it look like its pushed in too much? Should I also replace the chain? And if that does not fix it I don't know what else to do.

Really sorry for the long post I've tried to describe everything as best as I could to show a clear picture to what is happening.

Hope someone can help :) I appreciate it.

Cheers
Tommy

UPDATE: Would like to give a big shout-out to walky_talky20, old_guy and everyone that contributed to this post and helped me resolve this problem! Can't thank you enough!

[EuroxS4]

I only counted 15 links. I have yet to see that chain jump. Normally such timing issues occur if the cams have been removed as that tensioner adjusts timing by tensioning or slipping the chain.

[Turbavanttro]

Looks like 16 to me since the pin to the left of the mark on the exhaust cam gets counted. What brand cam sensor and crank sensor did you use?

[Nirvana09]

I just dealt with this, no, you are in time. That looks perfect.

[Tommy5150]

Looks like 16 to me since the pin to the left of the mark on the exhaust cam gets counted. What brand cam sensor and crank sensor did you use?

Hi Turbavanttro,

Thanks heaps for your reply. Thanks for confirmation of the 16 links, I thought so just wanted to confirm as its the first time I'm looking at this sort for thing. I've also attached a photo that I've highlighted what I think are the 16 links.

Cam and crank sensors that I put in are "AKUSAN" not sure where there made or by who but all I could find on the net is they are a auto parts distributor.
Crankshaft sensor was brand "ENGITECH".
I also read that the original sensors are highly reliable and that it is highly unlikely to fail. Thats why I put the original ones back.

When I measured them with multimeter the new and old was the same so I left the old ones in there. After driving around with the new ones for a week and resetting the P0341 code numerous times and the code kept coming back I was led to believe the problem is not in the sensors but somewhere else.

So as I said above I am not sure what else to check and am led to believe the only thing left to change is the timing chain tentioner. That a bad TCT could throw this error code. What do you thing?

Thanks again for your input.

Cheers

- - - Updated - - -

I only counted 15 links. I have yet to see that chain jump. Normally such timing issues occur if the cams have been removed as that tensioner adjusts timing by tensioning or slipping the chain.

Hi EuroxS4,

Thanks for your reply and input. I have re counted and highlighted the links as per workshop manual. I also highlighted the timing mark at 12 o'clock on cams. Correct me if I'm wrong but I counted 16? I've attached new photo please see.

As I've just bought the car I'm not sure what they previously done to the car but when I opened it up it all looked pretty stock. I saw nothing out of place or anything that looks like it was tampered with previously. Just read that a bad tentioner can also throw the P0341 code and cause the cam sensor to be deactivated cause hard start. The car never started on first attempt, at best 2nd but that's only about 50% of the time.

So really no sure what steps to take next but I have to do something. And it seems the timing tentioner is the only thing left for me to do. A new timing chain tentioner will set me back about about $100 US.

Thanks again for your help

[Tommy5150]

I just dealt with this, no, you are in time. That looks perfect.

Hey Nirvana09,

Thanks for confirmation.

Where else do you think I should look seeing as thou I've got the 16 links and timing is good? Like I said apart from changing the timing chain tentioner not sure what else to do? What was the problem in your situation and how did you deal with it? Did you also have the P0341 code?

Thanks for your time

[Larhal]

I also had this issue (P0341) this year. I found that the wiring/ plug for the CCT was faulty. I purchased a pigtail, spliced it in to repair the CCT connection. Resolved the problem.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-harnes-repair

[walky_talky20]

my issues are car starting on 3rd attempt sometimes 2nd sometimes 5th. Once started engine runs pretty smooth... Fuel consumption a bit off.

The car is acting the same way that any 1.8T will act when the cam sensor is unplugged. Without cam sensor signal, it does not (and cannot) know which stroke the engine is on. When it sees crankshaft TDC, it cannot determine if that is TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke. So the ECU takes a "guess". My assumption is that it actually "guesses" the same every time, and the only variable is where the engine happens to be on key-up. If it happens to begin its rotation from a good position, the guess will be "correct" and it will fire. If it guesses incorrectly, the engine will not fire and you can even get a backfire sometimes. Fuel consumption is expected to be worse because the engine will run the injectors in batch injection mode (all 4 injectors at once) instead of sequential injection (individually firing the injectors at the optimum time).

I believe an actual unplug of the cam sensor will yield an "open circuit / short to plus" or similar type of code. Perhaps you should test that your trouble code actually changes when unplugged vs plugged in. Assuming the trouble code chagnes, the signal is actually present and the issue is merely with the timing or quality of the cam signal.

It is at this point, I would probably proceed as follows:
- Very Close inspection of the camshaft trigger wheel
- Triple check of your BELT timing
- Triple check of your CHAIN timing
- Very close inspection that the exhaust camshaft markings match front-to-back (both front and rear markings on the exhaust camshaft show TDC exactly together)
- Swap cam sensor with known good from a working car (if possible)
- Inspection of camshaft sensor waveform with an oscilloscope and compare to known good waveform (bonus points if captured along with crankshaft waveform)

[Tommy5150]

Just a quick update:

I did some further digging into the functionality of the Cam Chain tensioner.

Looking at VCDS measuring bank #91 I can see that cam adjst. intake status shows "OFF" and Cam adjust intake B1 (act) shows "0.0°KW" this is after engine is hot and at idle. When I accelerate revs go up with engine load but the KW does not change at all. It stays at 0.00. With the cam adjst. intake status shows "OFF" and the KW not changing at all does this confirm that the tentioner is stuck or not working at all? Am I safe to say that?

[walky_talky20]

No. If there is an active fault code for camshaft position, this data will almost certainly not be updated. It literally does not have the cam position/advance data, which is also why the VVT feature is entirely disabled.

If you want to test that the solenoid and electronic control portion of the VVT feature is working, dump it into Output Test mode and listen for the CCT to clicky clack. (Key on, Engine Off).

[Tommy5150]

- - - Updated - - -

I also had this issue (P0341) this year. I found that the wiring/ plug for the CCT was faulty. I purchased a pigtail, spliced it in to repair the CCT connection. Resolved the problem.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-harnes-repair

Hi Larhal,

Thank you for your response. I actually read your original post when I spent about 2 days reading through anything I could find on the P0341 code.

Can I confirm the CCT is the camshaft chain tensioner? Is that what you mean? The only way to check this wiring is to remove the tensioner unplug it so I can get to the plug and wires correct?

I will also check the pins and wiring in the camshaft position sensor connector plug tip again in the morning to confirm I have the correct readings V on each and also check continuity between ECU and connector end. The first time I checked the camshaft position sensor plug it looked fine it was not broken nor did it look like any of the cables where damaged or loose. I believe from memory it had 3 wires being positive which was battery voltage or about 11v, signal wire about 5v and negative 0.02v from memory. (Now thinking about it I might have it confused with the crank sensor having 3 wire and the cam having 2) So like I said I will reconfirm all that tomorrow morning. Do you know what readings Volts I'm supposed to get on the 2 camshaft sensor wires? assuming one being battery voltage plus and a signal wire? Is that correct to say?

I remember the first time I looked at it I was hoping to find a damaged connector or a broken wire hanging out but was not my luck. Would of been am easy fix ;)

Will see what I find tomorrow and let you know.

Thank again for replying

[Tommy5150]

The car is acting the same way that any 1.8T will act when the cam sensor is unplugged. Without cam sensor signal, it does not (and cannot) know which stroke the engine is on. When it sees crankshaft TDC, it cannot determine if that is TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke. So the ECU takes a "guess". My assumption is that it actually "guesses" the same every time, and the only variable is where the engine happens to be on key-up. If it happens to begin its rotation from a good position, the guess will be "correct" and it will fire. If it guesses incorrectly, the engine will not fire and you can even get a backfire sometimes. Fuel consumption is expected to be worse because the engine will run the injectors in batch injection mode (all 4 injectors at once) instead of sequential injection (individually firing the injectors at the optimum time).

I believe an actual unplug of the cam sensor will yield an "open circuit / short to plus" or similar type of code. Perhaps you should test that your trouble code actually changes when unplugged vs plugged in. Assuming the trouble code chagnes, the signal is actually present and the issue is merely with the timing or quality of the cam signal.

It is at this point, I would probably proceed as follows:
- Very Close inspection of the camshaft trigger wheel
- Triple check of your BELT timing
- Triple check of your CHAIN timing
- Very close inspection that the exhaust camshaft markings match front-to-back (both front and rear markings on the exhaust camshaft show TDC exactly together)
- Swap cam sensor with known good from a working car (if possible)
- Inspection of camshaft sensor waveform with an oscilloscope and compare to known good waveform (bonus points if captured along with crankshaft waveform)

Hi walky_talky20,

Thanks for your reply and input much appreciated.

I will re check everything again tomorrow morning and let you know if I found anything else. Including checking the VVT in the output test as stated in the later message that you wrote.

Thank you again for all the information much appreciated.

[Tommy5150]

No. If there is an active fault code for camshaft position, this data will almost certainly not be updated. It literally does not have the cam position/advance data, which is also why the VVT feature is entirely disabled.

If you want to test that the solenoid and electronic control portion of the VVT feature is working, dump it into Output Test mode and listen for the CCT to clicky clack. (Key on, Engine Off).

I just read that apparently the A4 B6 1.8T does not have a VVT? Is that correct?

Found a post here on AudiWorld about VVT on this model.

[EuroxS4]

It looks like you are in time, however I want to point out a new tensioner will set you back more than $100 if you want a original one. Aftermarket ones are shit 99% of the time. Ask others here that have learned that lesson the hard way.

[Tommy5150]

It looks like you are in time, however I want to point out a new tensioner will set you back more than $100 if you want a original one. Aftermarket ones are shit 99% of the time. Ask others here that have learned that lesson the hard way.

Yeah your right I already ordered it and was exactly $100 US (93euros), should arrive tomorrow. I also learned that the hard way with Lambda (O2) sensors. Bought cheap ones and didn't work straight off the bat hahaha. Don't know what else to change as that is the last thing (tensioner). Unless it is a damaged connector or wiring going into it as stated by Larhal above. So will see tomorrow. It will be allot cheaper to change a connector or wire than replacing the whole thing so will see when I pull it out.

Thanks for your time in replying

[walky_talky20]

I just read that apparently the A4 B6 1.8T does not have a VVT? Is that correct?

Found a post here on AudiWorld about VVT on this model.

All A4 1.8T from 2001 and up has VVT, yes.

You can operate the engine with the VVT solenoid unplugged and it will stay in the home position (zero camshaft advance). This will of course set an open-circuit code for the VVT solenoid, but the engine will run perfectly fine this way. You would not expect any weird cam position sensor codes (P0341, etc) at all if you run it unplugged. Just codes for the VVT function itself.

[Tommy5150]

All A4 1.8T from 2001 and up has VVT, yes.

You can operate the engine with the VVT solenoid unplugged and it will stay in the home position (zero camshaft advance). This will of course set an open-circuit code for the VVT solenoid, but the engine will run perfectly fine this way. You would not expect any weird cam position sensor codes (P0341, etc) at all if you run it unplugged. Just codes for the VVT function itself.

Ok cool. Will test it tomorrow through output tests and see what it does.

[Tommy5150]

All A4 1.8T from 2001 and up has VVT, yes.

You can operate the engine with the VVT solenoid unplugged and it will stay in the home position (zero camshaft advance). This will of course set an open-circuit code for the VVT solenoid, but the engine will run perfectly fine this way. You would not expect any weird cam position sensor codes (P0341, etc) at all if you run it unplugged. Just codes for the VVT function itself.

UPDATE

ok so I ran the output test on VCDS and everything seemed to work and click when I hit activate including Cam timing adjuster. It made a sort of creaking noise and there was a click (the creaking noise was there through all the output tests so I'm assuming that's not a problem) Please see short video of the output test and sound that I've added testing the cam timing adjuster (0.35sec).



I also unplugged the CCT as advised, cleared the codes started the engine and got the fault 17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment P1531 - 004 - Open Circuit - along with the original 16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) P0341 - 004 - Implausible Signal (did not unplug the CMP, thats probebly why I still got the P0341 code). Once I plugged the CCT back in and reset the codes the Cam timing adjustment code disappeared while the P0341 cam code came back. What I did find was when the CCT was unplugged and the engine was running I opened measuring bank #91 and the KW was not zero but moving for the first time. It moved when under acceleration and showed about -135° at idle went to 0°. Once I plugged the CCT back in KW was at zero and did not move under idle or acceleration.

So main question is what does this tell me?? Does it mean that the wiring and connector to the CCT is good and that its working? is the CCT itself good? I inspected the connector and it is not broken neither are the wires damaged or coming out of it nor loose. Could not find any damage whatsoever to the connector.

Also measured the CCT connector and got juice on both wires: Battery voltage 12.8v

(measurements taken with multi-meter probe black to battery negative and red probe to pins)
Pin 1 - 11.8v
Pin 2 - 4.9v
Between pin 1 & 2 - 6.9v (probes between 1 & 2 contacts on connector)

CMP Connector - (measurements taken with multi-meter probe black to battery negative and red probe to pins)
Pin 1 - 5.01v
Pin 2 - 10.57v
Pin 3 - 0.00v (I'm assuming this pin goes to ground?)

(probes between pins on CMP connector)
Pin 1 & 3 - 5.0v
Pin 1 & 2 - 5.54v
Pin 2 & 3 - 10.54v

Are these readings good? does anyone know?
I think from what I found online the CMP 1 pin is about right (5.01v), pin 2 (10.57v) seems too high? (I read it should be about 0 to 5v or so. Is this true? Don't have a known good car to compare readings to.)

Can someone confirm the CCT voltage that I'm getting is right?

Looked at cam trigger wheel and it's perfect not bent or warped at all.
Very close inspection Timing on belt and chain is spot on

Doing my head in but learning allot at the same time. Am really interested in getting to the bottom of this and finding out why this is happening (P0341)
Really appreciate your help in this walky_talky20

[Tommy5150]

I also had this issue (P0341) this year. I found that the wiring/ plug for the CCT was faulty. I purchased a pigtail, spliced it in to repair the CCT connection. Resolved the problem.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-harnes-repair

Hi Larhal,

Do you happen to have known good multi-meter readings from the CCT and CMP in Volts that I can compare to? I checked the CCT connector today and could not find any damage whatsoever to the connector or wires.

Would love to know if my readings are right where it should be.
Thanks heaps

[walky_talky20]

The creaky noise is the fuel pump running. Likely the noise is actually from the fuel filter, which regulates the fuel pressure. They are known to get noisy when the filter is starting to clog up/reach end-of-life. I would change the filter ASAP before it kills your fuel pump. This is not related to your Cam sensor issue, but just something to put on your list.

The CCT solenoid clicked nicely during the test, so I would not be suspect of the wiring to that. Also, with it unplugged (deactivated), you still got your cam sensor code. So your trouble code is not likely to be related to the CCT wiring.

Voltages:

Pin 1 = 5v, that's good
Pin 2 = This is the cam position signal to the ECU. If it's unplugged (no Cam sensor attached) the voltage sensing circuit within the ECU will "float" this pin up to 11-12 volts. Normal.
Pin 3 = ground, that's good

With your sensor plugged in you got ~5v on the signal output wire, so that's in range. If the engine is running you should see this vary a bit, probably lower than 5v. But engine stationary, 5v might be ok.

So I think you've identified the signal is present. So your problem is most likely with the timing or quality of the cam sensor signal. It's either pulsing at times that don't make sense to the ECU, or the signal (waveform) is garbage.
- I think next step is to triple check the mechanical timing (belt and chain)
- There is a few situations where factory timing marks can be inaccurate

To test for inaccurate factory TDC mark on a 1.8T:
- Find TDC using a dowel or screwdriver put down the #1 spark plug hole, as precisely as possible. Obviously rotate engine until dowel reaches it highest point. This is true TDC. Then compare to Factory Crankshaft TDC markings.
**If not matching, crank keyway is damaged or crank damper pulley rubber has distorted/twisted.
- Align front camshaft belt sprocket factory TDC mark with valve cover mark, as precisely as possible. Then compare to rear camshaft "notch/arrow" markers at rear of exhaust camshaft.
**If not matching, camshaft belt sprocket keyway has sheared.

If all of that checks out, it may be time to look at the actual waveform, or (if that is not practical to do) perhaps try some more parts swapping.

[Tommy5150]

The creaky noise is the fuel pump running. Likely the noise is actually from the fuel filter, which regulates the fuel pressure. They are known to get noisy when the filter is starting to clog up/reach end-of-life. I would change the filter ASAP before it kills your fuel pump. This is not related to your Cam sensor issue, but just something to put on your list.

The CCT solenoid clicked nicely during the test, so I would not be suspect of the wiring to that. Also, with it unplugged (deactivated), you still got your cam sensor code. So your trouble code is not likely to be related to the CCT wiring.

Voltages:

Pin 1 = 5v, that's good
Pin 2 = This is the cam position signal to the ECU. If it's unplugged (no Cam sensor attached) the voltage sensing circuit within the ECU will "float" this pin up to 11-12 volts. Normal.
Pin 3 = ground, that's good

With your sensor plugged in you got ~5v on the signal output wire, so that's in range. If the engine is running you should see this vary a bit, probably lower than 5v. But engine stationary, 5v might be ok.

So I think you've identified the signal is present. So your problem is most likely with the timing or quality of the cam sensor signal. It's either pulsing at times that don't make sense to the ECU, or the signal (waveform) is garbage.
- I think next step is to triple check the mechanical timing (belt and chain)
- There is a few situations where factory timing marks can be inaccurate

To test for inaccurate factory TDC mark on a 1.8T:
- Find TDC using a dowel or screwdriver put down the #1 spark plug hole, as precisely as possible. Obviously rotate engine until dowel reaches it highest point. This is true TDC. Then compare to Factory Crankshaft TDC markings.
**If not matching, crank keyway is damaged or crank damper pulley rubber has distorted/twisted.
- Align front camshaft belt sprocket factory TDC mark with valve cover mark, as precisely as possible. Then compare to rear camshaft "notch/arrow" markers at rear of exhaust camshaft.
**If not matching, camshaft belt sprocket keyway has sheared.

If all of that checks out, it may be time to look at the actual waveform, or (if that is not practical to do) perhaps try some more parts swapping.

Thanks heaps for getting back to me.

I already ordered a new fuel filter will be here in two days, thanks for the heads up i know fuel pump is allot more expensive to change than the fuel filter.

What is interesting is that when I unplugged the CCT I got a KW reading for the first time and it changed as I accelerated. So thinking i'll still change the tensioner seeing as thou I've already paid for it and see what happens if the P0341 code disappears. Is it still possible that the mechanical component of the CCT itself could be F***ed? even after all those output tests?

Now thinking about it I didn't actually test the CMP plunged in. Those readings I had where just in the connector end that plugs into the CMP with the key on but car off. So I'm thinking I should actually start the car with it plugged in and jack in the back of the connector with paperclips leading out the back of the connector and see what I get mainly from the signal wire when the CMP sensor is live and working with car idling.

Will this tell me something new you think? Or the other thing I'm thinking is should I try it with a Delphi Technologies CMP sensor? Maybe the AKUSAN one that I first tried was shit and didn't work from the get go? Thinking this might eliminate or test the theory of the signal being weak or garbage...? Not sure

I will quad-ripple check the timing TDC again like you said with a screwdriver in cylinder 1 making sure all the timing marks line up with the rocker cover off so I can also confirm the TDC marks on top of camshafts both back and front. See where I go from there. And like I said if I already have the cover off maybe change the CCT too. I read somewhere that wornn pads on CCT can also cause this P0341 error.

Dont have an oscilloscope, thought to myself I'll buy one it'll come in handy...... Looked a few up on google, when I saw the price I fell of my chair and nearly chocked hahahaha plan B, I'll stop off at a local garage and see if I can get the boys to hook theirs up to the CMP and see what it shows, might cost me about 10eur but it'll be worth it knowing how the signal looks and if it's good but I read that a P0341 code means signal is there for less that 2 seconds and then its gone.

At this point willing to try anything hahaha

thanks heaps again!

[walky_talky20]

Easiest thing to do at this point is try another sensor. But that is up to you, if you'd rather do more testing or more "parts cannon".

Faulty CCT that allows way too much chain slack (missing foot) could be the cause, but it would also be very noisy in that case. More likely is incorrect timing or faulty sensor.

[Tommy5150]

Easiest thing to do at this point is try another sensor. But that is up to you, if you'd rather do more testing or more "parts cannon".

Faulty CCT that allows way too much chain slack (missing foot) could be the cause, but it would also be very noisy in that case. More likely is incorrect timing or faulty sensor.

You know that's exactly what I was thinking. I've already ordered a new CMP Delphi Technologies one which I will try first I think it's gonna be here in two days, maybe tomorrow if I'm lucky. So I'll try that being a known good brand. And tomorrow I will triple check all the timing again. And if that doesn't work then I will change the CCT as a last resort. I'll also get the CMP scanned with an oscilloscope to be sure the signal wire is good either tomorrow or the following day. Thats if the garages are open as I think they might all be on holidays still till the 9/01

Also tomorrow I'm gonna test original CMP plugged in with engine on with multi-meter and large metal object to see if voltage changes when I touch the sensor.

Will keep you posted thanks heaps again.

[Larhal]

- - - Updated - - -



Hi Larhal,

Thank you for your response. I actually read your original post when I spent about 2 days reading through anything I could find on the P0341 code.

Can I confirm the CCT is the camshaft chain tensioner? Is that what you mean? The only way to check this wiring is to remove the tensioner unplug it so I can get to the plug and wires correct?

I will also check the pins and wiring in the camshaft position sensor connector plug tip again in the morning to confirm I have the correct readings V on each and also check continuity between ECU and connector end. The first time I checked the camshaft position sensor plug it looked fine it was not broken nor did it look like any of the cables where damaged or loose. I believe from memory it had 3 wires being positive which was battery voltage or about 11v, signal wire about 5v and negative 0.02v from memory. (Now thinking about it I might have it confused with the crank sensor having 3 wire and the cam having 2) So like I said I will reconfirm all that tomorrow morning. Do you know what readings Volts I'm supposed to get on the 2 camshaft sensor wires? assuming one being battery voltage plus and a signal wire? Is that correct to say?

I remember the first time I looked at it I was hoping to find a damaged connector or a broken wire hanging out but was not my luck. Would of been am easy fix ;)

Will see what I find tomorrow and let you know.

Thank again for replying

Yes the CCT is the cam chain tensioner. You do not have to remove it to unplug it. I found that the pins / connector had distorted and would not make good contact. Replaced the plug and have not had any problems since. Also noted that there was very little slack in the wiring harness putting a strain on the connector. With the pigtail I was able to make it a little longer and relieve the strain.

[sgudino]

Tommy, so I wiggled the line inspected the connectors contacts and they were okay, nothing out of the ordinary. Larhal mentioned that as a possible issue.
I checked the ohms on both my old and new CCT solenoid both at 14 ohms. The line coming into the CCT from the connector was 7.2V

[Tommy5150]

Doing a bit more research. Does anyone know if the a4 b6 1.8t have a Cambridge? Was reading there is a small screen in the Cambridge that could be blocked and throw the P0341 CMP code. But am having trouble finding if this car actually has it as all the videos I found where on different cars with different engines.

Another thing I was looking at is in the Cambridge on the right hand cam there is a solenoid valve which is meant to oil the top of the engine. They said that solenoid sometimes can be faulty. But again I can't confirm if this is in the 1.8t model. Or am is this oil solenoid in the CCT unit on the 1.8T?

Does anyone know? Just done a parts search and nothing came up under engine number AVJ. So i'm assuring it doesn't have a camshaft bridge.

I'll be testing out a new CMP tomorrow so fingers crossed will see how it goes.

[Tommy5150]

Tommy, so I wiggled the line inspected the connectors contacts and they were okay, nothing out of the ordinary. Larhal mentioned that as a possible issue.
I checked the ohms on both my old and new CCT solenoid both at 14 ohms. The line coming into the CCT from the connector was 7.2V

Hey Sergio,

I got 6.9v between pins 1&2 so pretty much exactly same as you. Did not check the ohms.

But will be testing a new CMP tomorrow. Re re confirming timing again on crank mark cam marks and both marks on top of both cams both front and back. If that does not work I will also change the CCT and see what happens. Go through a process of elimination and hopefully come up with something. One other thing I want to do when the Garages open (there closed now over the holidays) is get the CMP tested with a oscilloscope to confirm the wave should be as it should along with the Crank sensor. Thought about buying an oscilloscope but when I saw the price I quickly changed my mind hahaha so for about $10 i'll get it checked to confirm. Actually would love to do that first but like I said their not open now

[kwilson]

The cam bridge screen and solenoid issues are with the later 2.0 engines. We don't have those.

[Tommy5150]

The cam bridge screen and solenoid issues are with the later 2.0 engines. We don't have those.

Hi Kwilson,

ok thanks for clarifying, thought it was strange that I could find it on this car.

Just trying to cover all my bases getting this P0341 issue sorted. Really doing my head in I've gone through pretty much everything. Must of missed something. Praying I find the problem

[sgudino]

Tommy, I swapped back to the original CMP and there is no change. The screen is on the CCT once your new one comes in you will see it. The original CCT screen was clean.
I never asked you how or when did it happen that the CEL light came on. As for me it happened when I entered the highway, the onramp had a significant bump and the impact caused the light to come on.
I immediately thought :shyte: and the P0016 came on so I immediately thought "skipped tooth and timing". In addition, a rattling sound could be heard after the bump.
I then started swapping out CCT and CMP. Went from P0016 to P0341 and that is where I am. I am so close to just going one step further and opening up one more time to swap out the chain. but since I can't get a reading from 093 and i am not sure if that chain is overstretched (5 degrees)

[Cybersombosis]

What brand of cam chain tensioner are you using? Brand in this case does matter. Some end up reverting back to the original CCT and swapping on new pads. I’ve also swapped just the solenoid with success.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Have you tried another cam position sensor? The symptoms you’re describing sound like a bad sensor, I’ve had mine fail with the same symptoms. Hit your local wrecking yard or a friend with a 1.8 and swap it. it’s just the 2 10mm bolts. Easiest thing to try, and should be the first thing with these symptoms. I’ve found that leaky cam seals can cause these to fill up with oil and get damaged pretty easily


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[Tommy5150]

Tommy, I swapped back to the original CMP and there is no change. The screen is on the CCT once your new one comes in you will see it. The original CCT screen was clean.
I never asked you how or when did it happen that the CEL light came on. As for me it happened when I entered the highway, the onramp had a significant bump and the impact caused the light to come on.
I immediately thought :shyte: and the P0016 came on so I immediately thought "skipped tooth and timing". In addition, a rattling sound could be heard after the bump.
I then started swapping out CCT and CMP. Went from P0016 to P0341 and that is where I am. I am so close to just going one step further and opening up one more time to swap out the chain. but since I can't get a reading from 093 and i am not sure if that chain is overstretched (5 degrees)

Hey Sergio,

I ordered a new CMP about 2 weeks ago that I put in and the same thing happened as you, there was no change. So I put the original one back. The only thing was the brand was AKUSAN, after looking up on google not even sure who the manufacturer is or where its from, I'm assuming china. So ordered a Delphi Technologies one that was supposed to come in yesterday along with a new CCT but they never arrived so being new years I wont get it now till Monday the 2nd. Worth a try I'll put it in and see what happens. I'm really interested in getting the osiliscopoe done too on the CMP to see what wave I get allong with the Crank sensor. But can't get that done till 9/01 as garages are closed till then.

Ok cool yeah I thought that was the case. I'm interested to see what it looks like when I pull it off, if the screen is blocked or not, including the condition of the pads on the CCT.

I just purchased the car, there was a 1m piece of exhaust missing just after the CAT under the car, and there was a coolant leak at the back of the engine in the coolant flange so I replaced it with the seal, and also a few coolant clamps were on wrong so I adjusted them too, so that fixed the coolant leak. The oil and filter where changed along with the spark plugs about 2000 miles ago, the first thing I checked to see if the head gasket was blown and if there was water in the oil but thankfully was good, nice and clean, same when I pulled the rocker cover off and changed the gasket everything was nice and clean no sludge at all. I feel like lately all I've been doing is head gaskets hahaha recently done 2 VW golfs mk5's. Other than the P0341 code the car is sweet no other issues. Car is a 2002 model with 80,000 original miles, full Audi service history and first owner all original books, got a great deal on it picked it up for $1000 USD which I thought was a great deal, car was never in an accident and in great condition very well looked after.

Hate that feeling of "Oh man..... what now " when it happens while your on the freeway or somewhere not near home. Recently happened the me in the VW golf mk5 1.4 16v Petrol BCA..... was on the freeway and suddenly there was a thud, quickly turned the engine off and just rolled onto an off ramp and pulled over on the side of the road. $80 latter for towing was home. Timing chain tensioner bolt happened to snap clean off, shredded about 7 teeth on the timing belt, which in turn bent all 16 valves...... and thats on an engine that 2 months ago I had the head done and valves changed. Was gutted. So I know the feeling well hahaha.

Was thinking that myself too that if all else fails, might change the chain too after. We'll see. First thing on Monday i'll change the CMP and do some tests and take some reading to see if anything changed, not holding my breath, if not I'll put the original CMP back, and then I'll change the CCT, and see if it changes anything.

What was interesting is when I have the CCT plugged in I also get 0°KW on #91, 92 and 93. Its does not move at all stuck on 0. But when I unplug the CCT and turn the engine on I start getting readings in #91, 92 and 93. That is with the CMP plugged in. So not sure what that's telling me. Unless there is something faulty inside the CCT with the electrics or the solenoid. But then again did some tests on the VVT in output tests and apparently that all works fine. But because the cam adjustment is permanently off I can't do the Basic settings on the cam adjustment it just days off all the time and when I click on nothing happens. It doesn't start the basic settings, so something is blocking it. So really interested if that will change when I replace the CCT.

Are you able to perform the camshaft adjustment in Basic settings? with the engine running?

How many miles on your car?

[Tommy5150]

What brand of cam chain tensioner are you using? Brand in this case does matter. Some end up reverting back to the original CCT and swapping on new pads. I’ve also swapped just the solenoid with success.

Hey Cybersombosis,

The first CMP I tried was prob some shit brand china I never heard off AKUSAN, so ordered a Delphi Technologies one to try on Monday see if there is any change, but am really interested in getting it on a oscilloscope to see the correlation with the Crank sensor. Cant do that till the 9/01 when the garages open again. Put that AKUSAN in and when there was no change put the original one back in.

CCT I'm getting is brand AUTOLOG, its a Germany brand made in Germany. I order from a major European company that supplies all the Garages here. Company is Inter Cars, there great they have a 2 year warranty on all their products no questions asked.

Yeah I've read that, but for some reason I got a feeling that some of the electronics or the solenoid is gone in the CCT. interesting is when I have the CCT plugged in I also get 0°KW on #91, 92 and 93. It does not move at all, stuck on 0. But when I unplug the CCT and turn the engine on I start getting KW readings in #91, 92 and 93. The KW starts to move. That is with the CMP plugged in.

[Tommy5150]

Have you tried another cam position sensor? The symptoms you’re describing sound like a bad sensor, I’ve had mine fail with the same symptoms. Hit your local wrecking yard or a friend with a 1.8 and swap it. it’s just the 2 10mm bolts. Easiest thing to try, and should be the first thing with these symptoms. I’ve found that leaky cam seals can cause these to fill up with oil and get damaged pretty easily


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Hey Gunnarrrrr,

Yeah I tried that, like you said was the first thing I did, changed the cam position sensor, and also the crank position sensor, didn't do anything. Am gonna try with a German brand again on Monday for the cam position sensor, Delphi Technologies. The car only has 80,000miles on it so there are no oil leaks anywhere. Checked everything including the oil seals on the Cam when I had the rocker cover off and was checking Timing on cam chain.

[Tommy5150]

Happy new Year and all the best to everybody!!

[sgudino]

Tommy, I am not able to do any adjustments on the cam using the VCDS, everything that you described is exactly what I am experiencing to a tee. I haven't tried unplugging the connector to the solenoid but from what you said that will not make a bit of difference to the issue since we can't do any adjustments.
It's been raining here in Los Angeles so not the best condition to be getting under the hood. But my next move is the solenoid swap with the original CCT.

[Tommy5150]

Tommy, I am not able to do any adjustments on the cam using the VCDS, everything that you described is exactly what I am experiencing to a tee. I haven't tried unplugging the connector to the solenoid but from what you said that will not make a bit of difference to the issue since we can't do any adjustments.
It's been raining here in Los Angeles so not the best condition to be getting under the hood. But my next move is the solenoid swap with the original CCT.

Hey Sergio, Yeah same here something is blocking the cam adjustment from being done. But it's strange that when I perform the out put tests I can hear the cam adjuster turning on. Would love to know why it's moving in the Output tests but not when I got to do the Calibration in basic settings. Yeah it's been cloudy and raining here to so not the best weather to be digging around the engine with the hood open.

Let me know what happens when you replace the solenoid in the CCT and the outcome. I should be doing the CCT too tomorrow so will let you know what happens on my end.

[Tommy5150]

What brand of cam chain tensioner are you using? Brand in this case does matter. Some end up reverting back to the original CCT and swapping on new pads. I’ve also swapped just the solenoid with success.

Hey Cybersombosis, was swapping the pads a pretty straight forward job?? Did they just un clip? And the solenoid is attached to the body of the tensioner with just two screws? simple unscrew and replace?

[Cybersombosis]

Yes the pads just unclip with a little upward pressure and install the same way. You may have to flex the new pads outward a bit to get them on. The solenoid swap is a 5 min job and is a very easy check if you have a good know solenoid.