As not to clog up the high mile thread, a few people expressed interest in my conversion so I'll post up some info here for you all to laugh at haha.
I did this in late 2019 and have around 80k on the conversion since it's completion.
I'll try and figure out how to post some pictures to go along with this wall of text soon.
Anyway here goes....
This car was intended to serve one purpose. A reliable , AWD commuter, that maintains excellent fuel economy.
Living at a higher elevation with snow and leaving early for work before the plows come means our 2000 Jetta TDI is not the right tool for the job. (Abandoning it at the bottom of the hill sucks)
So, we bought a cheap cheap 2003 jetta parts car a few years back with the intention to convert our Allroad to a tdi. That didnt happen.
Fast forward to now. We found a 2011 A4 AWD with a blown motor for a smokin deal. Without a conversion anywhere on the internet to be found to copy, we went ahead and winged it. haha
This project is a budget project, and we re-used most of the 2.0L bits and pieces (mainly hoses, sensors, etc.)
I cannot break everything down step by step, but will give an outline of some of the challenges we faced, European parts we needed, and general modifications.
Disclaimer. You do require some fabrication skills , mainly engine mounts/downpipe/intercooler pipe etc.
Here goes with some highlights/issues we had to overcome:
-Flywheel bolt pattern. We re-used the 2.0t flywheel/flexplate. (YOU HAVE TO ) It fits perfectly onto the alignment hub on the alh crank. But it has 8 mount holes, the ALH is 6. We welded up holes, and drilled new pattern to fit ALH crank.
-Starter . The gas 2.0t starter is not large enough. (it wont live long turning the diesel engine over . Had to import a 2.0 diesel starter from a b8 tdi from europe. (pic below for size comparison)
-Turbo. The ALH turbo interferes with starter. Therefore you need to source a longitudinal turbo from passat / audi diesel.. Bought a 1749VA from europe to make it work.The turbo also puts an almost perfect placement for a straight downpipe to existing 2.5" exhaust system ;)
-Intake. ALH Intake inlet facing the wrong , not enough clearance for intercooler piping on the front of the motor. Bought a longitudinal PD130 intake from Europe. Works great, and much larger/better flow.
-Custom Fabricated engine mounts to utilize the OEM rubber mounts on the subframe. Used steel solid stock, drilled and tapped to maintain stock rubber mounts/hardware. Also required for starter/turbo clearance.
-Power steering line welded to alh bango to utilize alh PS pump. Works fine.
-90% of the coolant lines were plumbed using 2.0t and ALH donor lines. (very little $ spent in this area. Made a hose reducer and integrated the 2.0T coolant temp sensor to maintain control of the dash. Coolant temp on dash works.
Retained factory radiator, and reservoir.
-Tach signal: 2.0t reluctor wheel which was on the crank internally, removed, and welded to the front crank pulley from the alh. Perfect match for the outside circumfrence of the crank pulley which allows for perfect alignment for welding. Made bracket to externally mount the 2.0t factory crank position sensor.. Tach signal works..
-Speedo still relies on Left front ABS , still works never touched it .
-Oil pressure sensor works, 2.0T plugs right in. (same sensor) this makes the oem low oil pressure warning work like factory
-Oil pan. ALH will not clear the PS rack. Had to replace with 1.8T oil pan & pu tube. Factory 2.0T oil level sending unit bolts to the bottom to keep oil level monitoring
-Factory airbox retained. Modified oem MAF housing to accept ALH MAF. ALH MAP sensor bolted right into the place of the 2.0t location/existing intercooler piping.
-Turbo outlet to the intercooler piping was retained by using the ALH boost
hose quick connect that went to the pancake pipe. Used a hose joiner to connect to 2.0t intercooler.
-Factory front mount Intercooler stayed OEM. The piping up top made with 2 1/4" exhaust tubing and rubber factory elbows from the 2.0t. The theme in this swap, re-using alot of 2.0t stuff.
-Fuel system plumbed into the existing lines with some small modifications at the sending unit where the pump was bypassed. Made quick charcoal cannister bypass with piece of 3/4" hose
-Throttle pedal from ALH was bolted to the Audi, but had to change the angle of the pedal -cut and weld
-Factory ECU left in place. Removed all non-used engine sensors and dead headed the wires.
-Utilized TDI Alternator, only 1 wire from Audi side, plugs in for the dash light. (works)
-TDI Harness stripped to just whats required to make engine run (stand alone) Immobilizer , EGR and ASV deleted from ecu. Malone tuning.
-Engine runs on its own harness, engine vitals monitored by original Audi sensors & work in dash.
-ABS and Quattro system function normally
-Made custom a/c lines to use the alh a/c compressor, so it has working a/c as intended .
Everything in the rest of the car functions (Interior functions/ Radio/ Heater/ dynamic steering, etc. is happy)
Car is not disappointing to drive at all. Very impressed with overall road manners, Gearing etc.
Clutch and 6spd manual Trans feel great.
Worth the effort. Alot of head scratching, and thinking outside of the box .
This swap is function over finish, but the end result was we made the swap work with $1500 (including $400 parts car) Utilizing existing parts was huge, shopping ebay etc...
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