2.0 stroker build

[wafi ahmed]

Finally after a long wait I ordered the rods and exhaust manifold (on sale) today!
IMG_0483.jpg

This is my 2003 Audi A4 Quattro 6 speed swapped

It was originally tiptronic I swapped it with 02x almost two years ago it’s been good in terms of reliability. I was planning to build the motor this summer but due to family emergency I couldn’t but now everything is done and I’m slowly saving up again.

I ordered scat 144x20 and 034 coated bearings
SPC t3 manifold

That’s all so far I ordered them yesterday but I’ll be ordering lot more in next few months.

I have a extra 06A block that I scored from a junk car for free (the car I got my 02x from) I’m planning to build that block and drop it in

My plan is 2.0 stroker g30-660.
Pulsar g30-660 is what I’m planning to get I’m still very short on budget but I have another car so I’m in no rush. I have all the parts I want in my mind except the pistons only issue I have with pistons is I’m not sure what compression ratio piston I should get other than that I have every other part ready to order.


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[BumblebVR6]

If you want to build a stroker, you'll need a FSI crank with the oil pump gear pressed on and the correct pistons for it.

[1.8TFan]

Looking forward to seeing this build, great looking B6 wafi. I have a similar plan for my '04, manual swap first followed by engine. I have a lead on a ~60k mile 2.0T long block locally for cheap.

I'm unsure of the block code on the local one? Is the 06A a good block to build a stroker on? Just beginning research phase right now and I'm curious what 2.0T blocks to look for?

[wafi ahmed]

If you want to build a stroker, you'll need a FSI crank with the oil pump gear pressed on and the correct pistons for it.

I’m planning to order the IE crank that’s ready to use with the gear already pressed in


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[wafi ahmed]

Looking forward to seeing this build, great looking B6 wafi. I have a similar plan for my '04, manual swap first followed by engine. I have a lead on a ~60k mile 2.0T long block locally for cheap.

I'm unsure of the block code on the local one? Is the 06A a good block to build a stroker on? Just beginning research phase right now and I'm curious what 2.0T blocks to look for?

Far as I know 06A is the best 1.8t block to build people pair it with AEB head


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[Gunnarrrrr]

I’m planning to order the IE crank that’s ready to use with the gear already pressed in


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You can get a crank for nothing, just press the gear on yourself. it isn’t hard.


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[wafi ahmed]

You can get a crank for nothing, just press the gear on yourself. it isn’t hard.


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Idk how well used crank would work that’s the main reason I wanna spend the money and skip the headache


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[Kevin C]

The price of a new 2.0TFSI crank has gone up a lot. Best OEM new price is about $1400 or so. That makes some of the ones with the gear prepressed on look like a deal. Used, it all depends on who you know to score a good one at a reasonable price. When I built my stroker 2 years ago the same part (06a105021bp) cost me $822, new from the dealer on a Black Friday sale. Keep in mind that TFSI motors have a hard life and many end up with cam follower shards in the oil and bearings. Measure and verify clearances.

[Gunnarrrrr]

The price of a new 2.0TFSI crank has gone up a lot. Best OEM new price is about $1400 or so. That makes some of the ones with the gear prepressed on look like a deal. Used, it all depends on who you know to score a good one at a reasonable price. When I built my stroker 2 years ago the same part (06a105021bp) cost me $822, new from the dealer on a Black Friday sale. Keep in mind that TFSI motors have a hard life and many end up with cam follower shards in the oil and bearings. Measure and verify clearances.

apikol sells em for $1k still


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[Kevin C]

apikol sells em for $1k still


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They say they are on backorder. I would be surprised if they can honor that price, but if they can its a good deal.

[Gunnarrrrr]

They say they are on backorder. I would be surprised if they can honor that price, but if they can its a good deal.

Yeah I was doubting that price. Some shops are still claiming the $1500 IE option for $1200 on back order, but you know what they’re going to say when you try to order it.


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[wafi ahmed]

I just checked the IE cranks are out of stock, so say I get used crank which I can get pretty easily here in NYC you guys think it would be a good idea? If I do get used crank what should I be looking for other than obvious damage to the journals is there something els I should be looking for? And should I get it balanced and machined?


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[Gunnarrrrr]

I just checked the IE cranks are out of stock, so say I get used crank which I can get pretty easily here in NYC you guys think it would be a good idea? If I do get used crank what should I be looking for other than obvious damage to the journals is there something els I should be looking for? And should I get it balanced and machined?


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interested in this too since i’m about to go pull my first FSI crank from a yard. there’s two yards by me and each one has at least a dozen 2.0t’s. Can I get by with a TIP with the 2.8 pilot bearing solution? or do I need a manual/CVT? is it B7’s only, or can I get one from a transverse A3 or VW?

Im just going to grab the lowest mileage one that doesn’t have metal shavings in the oil pan and cross my fingers.

Pro tip, since they don’t let you bring in a battery or something to check electronics, you can pop out the battery in your 18V impact driver and just run a + & - wire to the back of the dash cluster in the donor car to see the mileage.


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[wafi ahmed]

interested in this too since i’m about to go pull my first FSI crank from a yard. there’s two yards by me and each one has at least a dozen 2.0t’s. Can I get by with a TIP with the 2.8 pilot bearing solution? or do I need a manual/CVT? is it B7’s only, or can I get one from a transverse A3 or VW?

Im just going to grab the lowest mileage one that doesn’t have metal shavings in the oil pan and cross my fingers.

Pro tip, since they don’t let you bring in a battery or something to check electronics, you can pop out the battery in your 18V impact driver and just run a + & - wire to the back of the dash cluster in the donor car to see the mileage.


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When I did a manual swap on my b6 tip I used the crank adapter a guy sells in audizine that worked really great so even if I get used auto crank I’m just gonna use the same adapter


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[Gunnarrrrr]

When I did a manual swap on my b6 tip I used the crank adapter a guy sells in audizine that worked really great so even if I get used auto crank I’m just gonna use the same adapter


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i was just going to do this http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post6362409

I read somewhere that all the transverse cars have manual crankshafts


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[Mike Tries]

interested in this too since i’m about to go pull my first FSI crank from a yard. there’s two yards by me and each one has at least a dozen 2.0t’s. Can I get by with a TIP with the 2.8 pilot bearing solution? or do I need a manual/CVT? is it B7’s only, or can I get one from a transverse A3 or VW?

Im just going to grab the lowest mileage one that doesn’t have metal shavings in the oil pan and cross my fingers.

Pro tip, since they don’t let you bring in a battery or something to check electronics, you can pop out the battery in your 18V impact driver and just run a + & - wire to the back of the dash cluster in the donor car to see the mileage.


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Are the engines already out of the cars? It kind of sounds like you'll be finding a car and yanking the engine out of it to get to the crank. Can you do that in a day in a salvage yard? (I'm always impressed by the work that people can do at yards.)

[Gunnarrrrr]

Are the engines already out of the cars? It kind of sounds like you'll be finding a car and yanking the engine out of it to get to the crank. Can you do that in a day in a salvage yard? (I'm always impressed by the work that people can do at yards.)

no. Also there’s often plenty of them where people already pulled the transmission. So if I find one missing the transmission, it’s an easy job done in a couple hours. Just gotta take the oil pump off, unbolt the rods, and get those main caps off. Then slide the crank out the bottom with the engine still in the car.


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[Mike Tries]

no. Also there’s often plenty of them where people already pulled the transmission. So if I find one missing the transmission, it’s an easy job done in a couple hours. Just gotta take the oil pump off, unbolt the rods, and get those main caps off. Then slide the crank out the bottom with the engine still in the car.


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Still impressive. I've been at it for days now with my engine upside-down on a stand, and I can't get the oil pump off!

[Gunnarrrrr]

Still impressive. I've been at it for days now with my engine upside-down on a stand, and I can't get the oil pump off!

How it practically falls off once the 3 bolts come out

If it’s the chain holding you up, take the gear off the pump. makes it easier


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[EuroxS4]

Make sure you get the correct pistons for this setup. Also note amb pistons have 19mm pins vs the 20mm pins in the aeb engines. So that being said you either have to bush the rods or modify the pistons if possible or get different pistons all together especially when going stroker.

[Mike Tries]

How it practically falls off once the 3 bolts come out

If it’s the chain holding you up, take the gear off the pump. makes it easier


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Yeah, I probably just need to take the sprocket off, but I need to get the timing belt sprocket off anyway, and yank that front cover. That might make it easier.

[Kevin C]

Stroker pistons are of course mandatory on a stroker motor and I cant imagine anyone reusing the stock rods. I went with the IE spec Mahle and the IE rifle drilled rods.



Hard to beat the construction on the Mahle pistons. https://performancebyie.com/products...ns-vw-audi-18t
https://performancebyie.com/collecti...20200648802415

[Gunnarrrrr]

Stroker pistons are of course mandatory on a stroker motor and I cant imagine anyone reusing the stock rods. I went with the IE spec Mahle and the IE rifle drilled rods.

I’m going the same route as you with the IE spec mahle’s and IE rods. I have the 19mm version of those same rifle drilled rods on my other car, no complaints, might as well grab the 20mm version for this one too.

I’m sure op is aware he needs pistons, increased stroke will send stock height pistons right through the head. Unless he plans on running 5psi of boost i’m sure he’s not going to drop in stock AEB rods. He said he already got new rods.


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[EuroxS4]

In my opinion the amount of money needed to go stroker is not worth the reward. That's just my opinion.

[Mike Tries]

It sounds like a fun project to say the least, but what are the actual rewards in doing this? I'm sure there's a thread showing specifics, but broad-strokes (heh), are there big gains in torque or horsepower, driveability, etc.? Obviously there's no replacement for displacement, right? Except there can be other options--like bigger turbochargers, altered compression, ECU adjustments, etc.--but it looks like you guys may already have those modifications.

[Gunnarrrrr]

It sounds like a fun project to say the least, but what are the actual rewards in doing this? I'm sure there's a thread showing specifics, but broad-strokes (heh), are there big gains in torque or horsepower, driveability, etc.? Obviously there's no replacement for displacement, right? Except there can be other options--like bigger turbochargers, altered compression, ECU adjustments, etc.--but it looks like you guys may already have those modifications.

peak horsepower increases, no not really. More just the benefit from a leftward shift in the power band, which is the main complaint of big turbo’d stock 1.8’s. compare the dyno graphs of a 650whp 1.8 and a 650whp stroker and you’ll see what I mean. A GT30 or larger is a nightmare to drive on stock displacement, yet it becomes much more pleasant to drive stroked to 2.0L


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[Mike Tries]

That makes a lot of sense. That's also a colossal amount of horsepower from such a tiny engine. I was surprised at just how little these things are when I got mine down to just the block. I think the head weighs almost as much as the block does.

[Kevin C]

peak horsepower increases, no not really. More just the benefit from a leftward shift in the power band, which is the main complaint of big turbo’d stock 1.8’s. compare the dyno graphs of a 650whp 1.8 and a 650whp stroker and you’ll see what I mean. A GT30 or larger is a nightmare to drive on stock displacement, yet it becomes much more pleasant to drive stroked to 2.0L


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Interesting test on a NA V8. Just the crank and pistons were changed. Same cam, heads and intake. The CR did get bumped 1/2 point. The should give it about 5 to 7 more HP. Power band does shift to the left but not by a lot. Check out the 8 min mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbY7...el=POWERNATION

[Gunnarrrrr]

Interesting test on a NA V8. Just the crank and pistons were changed. Same cam, heads and intake. The CR did get bumped 1/2 point. The should give it about 5 to 7 more HP. Power band does shift to the left but not by a lot. Check out the 8 min mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbY7...el=POWERNATION

That’s pretty much what I would’ve expected. But that’s NA. With a turbo spooling up faster I would expect the difference to be a lot more drastic


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[Kevin C]

That’s pretty much what I would’ve expected. But that’s NA. With a turbo spooling up faster I would expect the difference to be a lot more drastic


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Agreed. The interesting part if for the NA setup they always have way more average power (area under the curve between shift points).

I don't know of comparison test like this on a turbo, if you find one let me know.

This one is even better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7R_...ichardHoldener

[gmudan]

I had a fully built 1.8t with 9.25 CR, EFR 7163, IE cams on E85/WM. Turbo started to spool around 3800 rpm. Had a opportunity to swap the crank so i did a stroker setup with the same parts, just a FSI crank and Mahle 9.25 pistons. The difference is really worth it. Now its not such a slouch in city traffic and spools at 3k rpm. Full boost (35psi) around 4.5k-5k. This is how i wish it was from the beginning. Whats your HP goal?

[Gunnarrrrr]

I had a fully built 1.8t with 9.25 CR, EFR 7163, IE cams on E85/WM. Turbo started to spool around 3800 rpm. Had a opportunity to swap the crank so i did a stroker setup with the same parts, just a FSI crank and Mahle 9.25 pistons. The difference is really worth it. Now its not such a slouch in city traffic and spools at 3k rpm. Full boost (35psi) around 4.5k-5k. This is how i wish it was from the beginning. Whats your HP goal?

This is exactly why I’ll never build another 1.8 without going stroker. on my tiny 2871r I barely start spoiling at 4k. Full boost (26psi) doesn’t hit til nearly 6k. picking up a B9 3.0T has only made me hate the slow spool of the 1.8 even more


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[wafi ahmed]

I was going to order the Weisco 9.1CR stroker piston because I heard for street driving 9.1 is better than 9.25 but if that’s not true I’ll get mahale since more people seem to have good experience with it.

I want at least 500whp and the reason I decided to do stroker is simply cuz it doesn’t really cost that much all you need is the crank and pistons and rest of the stuff you need it anyway for stock displacement build if you plan to run aftermarket piston you gotta pay for piston anyway so might as well get a stroker piston and add a crank.


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[Mike Tries]

What does bumping the compression ratio do to these motors? I don't know much about turbocharged engines and high compression other than "as one goes up, the other should come down, or be prepared to buy 100+ octane fuel".

[gmudan]

This is exactly why I’ll never build another 1.8 without going stroker. on my tiny 2871r I barely start spoiling at 4k. Full boost (26psi) doesn’t hit til nearly 6k. picking up a B9 3.0T has only made me hate the slow spool of the 1.8 even more


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Yea i agree. The ease of tuning and power of newer engines make it worthless to modify these ones. Putting hours and 5 figures into a build will still net you a loss to someone with a stage 2 s3/s4. Its still fun though . Still hoping for 500+ on my build, we will see very soon.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Yea i agree. The ease of tuning and power of newer engines make it worthless to modify these ones. Putting hours and 5 figures into a build will still net you a loss to someone with a stage 2 s3/s4. Its still fun though . Still hoping for 500+ on my build, we will see very soon.

I got about 650 torque and a fully upgraded chassis (sway bars, braces, mounts, coilovers, etc) for about $10k on my SQ5.

But 1.8’s are still worth it. With how cheap they are and how readily available junkyard parts are, you can have a pretty driveable 500hp, manual transmission, stroker setup for about $10k these days including the car. If you take your time and pick up everything used or from junkyards etc.


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[wafi ahmed]

IMG_3512_jpg.jpg
So I have a question, The IE stroker crank is out of stock and IE is not sure when it’ll be back, so my question is if I use used crank from say b7 a4 2.0 do I gotta get any machining work done? Like balancing or polishing? If the crank is good low mileage I can drop it in with the oil pump gear swapped out right?


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[dougyfresh]

If you want to build a stroker, you'll need a FSI crank with the oil pump gear pressed on and the correct pistons for it.

Not necessarily the only option. I had two 2.0L strokers with AEG cranks. Then again, 12 years ago AEG cranks were pennies on the dollar.

[wafi ahmed]

IMG_3899.jpg
I forgot to post it here, I got the carillo CP stroker piston!! Now I need to figure out the crank situation because IE is out of stock not only the frank but also the oil pump sprocket is out of stock


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