Setting Timing with Lock Bar After Camshaft Install

[ShelbyM3]

First time pulling cams out on a 2.7. Bank 1 jumped on me while setting the cams, normal. So, I planned on using the lock bar to rotate bank 1 clockwise to align it to bank 2 before setting the timing.
My question is, do you need to rotate the crank to prevent any valve contact? I recently saw a video where the guy did this. Rotate counter clockwise 45 degrees, advance bank 1 with lock bar, rotate crank clockwise back to TDC and inset lock pin, set timing. Is the crank rotation necessary? I thought rotating counter clockwise was no bueno, or is that just with the timing belt on?
Bank 1 is at a state or rest, and the block is ready for it to be advanced. In my head I can’t see why valves would contact in the less than 90 degrees I’ll be rotating it.

Thanks in advance!


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[2.ohhh]

Don't worry about it...keep your crank at TDC with pin and set your cams with the lock bar. Once set, you can then rotate the entire assembly from the crank a few times to confirm your setting. Most likely you'll need to "fine tune" the cam/s just a touch on the tapered cam nose and pulleys. I had to pop the cam pulley once or twice to really dial it in. Set it, do some rotations from the crank, double check and maybe re-set just a hair, and lock it in. Once the car runs again, you can check your cam phase settings in VCDS to confirm, but most likely a little extra time here will keep you in the few degree float for acceptable settings between the 2 banks.

[ShelbyM3]

Thank you! I’ve done a handful of timing jobs over the years, just never as in depth as my own project. I research the shit out of most everything, so when I recently saw someone do a different procedure I had to stop and ask some questions.


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[mrg_B8TFSi]

I’d like to confirm a few things about the 2.8L 30V for cam lock bar.. when do you install it with cam belt still on or after removing the belt? Does the crank lock need to be in before taking off the belt and does the crank lock need to be in before locking cams with the bar? Can you loosen the cam bolts and pop the cam pulleys with the bar in place? I’d like to do a TB job on this motor but not sure of the sequence of events.. I would think first you’d want the motor at TDC before doing anything and I don’t know how you can move the cams to ensure that you have clearance once the belt is off and if the crank is locked.. any suggestions?


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[ShelbyM3]

I’d like to confirm a few things about the 2.8L 30V for cam lock bar.. when do you install it with cam belt still on or after removing the belt? Does the crank lock need to be in before taking off the belt and does the crank lock need to be in before locking cams with the bar? Can you loosen the cam bolts and pop the cam pulleys with the bar in place? I’d like to do a TB job on this motor but not sure of the sequence of events.. I would think first you’d want the motor at TDC before doing anything and I don’t know how you can move the cams to ensure that you have clearance once the belt is off and if the crank is locked.. any suggestions?


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See my response in the other thread, but yes. Yes to all. You need to keep everything in place at TDC before removing the belt.


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[Paperclips43]

Interesting timing that I also came upon directions that stated
to turn the crank counter clockwise 45 degrees
so that no piston was at TDC so I could remove my cams to replace the tensioner.


I see now thats not what most people do but its what I did! So I figured I should clarify as best I can
and double check the following steps are correct.
I used crank lock pin to TDC then Cam lock bar to take of sprockets. Then I took out pin and rotated
crank back 45 degrees.
Then I took out cams and cam adjuster all together as one piece. When I took them out they were with
notches lined up.

So now my plan is to tension the new adjuster take it and the chain it came with put in my car
with my original cams and line them up to notches matching.
With new seals, gaskets, and cam sesnor.
Install bearing caps and tightening properly
Count the 16 links between cams as I release the cam tension tool slowly lining them in up at TDC
Install cam lock bar and bolt down sprockets
and then rotate crank pulley forward 45 degrees to TDC and lock in with the crank lock pin
Re-attach timing belt and pull the timing pin and torque it to proper tension.
And thats the important part done right right? Should be in time?