Volcano Red allroad + Intro

[jbrentd]

Hey everyone! Just wanted to introduce myself and this new-to-me 2013 A4 allroad. My name is Brent and I live in northeast Oklahoma with my wife of 24 years. We have two boys...one in college and one living in KC. I've been on the forum for a bit over the years with a few different Audis sprinkled in. A couple B5s, a B3, a C6 and an A3 sportback that my youngest son drives. I've never been able to convince my wife to join in on the fun, though. Here's a brief history...

1996 A4 12-valve V6


2001 A4 Avant


2007 A6


2011 A3


And my long-term project Coupe Quattro that I have owned twice now. I am currently trying to wrap up a 3B engine swap, complete suspension/brake overhaul and a whole bunch of scope creep.




When I sold the C6 A6 back in 2016, I was Audi-less for the first time in 12 years. I was able to buy back my CQ and daily drove a few SUVs up until now. When I decided to sell my 4Runner, I started looking for an Audi replacement. My search was focused on Q5s, A3s and A4 avants/allroads. I knew I wanted sport seats and something that had some color to it...like red or blue. This one popped up on a saved search for a decent price and the dealership in California was willing to handle the arrangements for shipping. I think they had it on their lot for a few months, based on a recent price drop of $4k on their site, the AutoCheck info and it was a new hit to my search on Autotrader. Those things were good for me, but made me a little nervous on a 120k mile car that you can't see in person. But I took the chance and it showed up last Thursday on the transport.



We headed out of town for the weekend the next day...so all I could do was pull it out in the daylight to snap a few pictures.









First order of business is to fire up the old laptop to check for timing chain stretch via VCDS and then inspect the tensioner. I also have a real dipstick, plugs and air/oil/cabin filters on order for both the allroad and my son's A3. Our cars are of similar mileage, so we will most likely be doing the same jobs. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions in the future. Thanks for following along.

[StuckAntichris]

Welcome back and awesome find! Love the color!

A word of advice, keep an eye on your oil level over the next few weeks. Hopefully you didn't get an oil burner but its more of a when, and not if, it burns oil. A piston job isn't the end of the world. Just something to keep in mind.

[jbrentd]

Welcome back and awesome find! Love the color!

A word of advice, keep an eye on your oil level over the next few weeks. Hopefully you didn't get an oil burner but its more of a when, and not if, it burns oil. A piston job isn't the end of the world. Just something to keep in mind.

Thanks! I hate not having a dipstick and the couple times I looked at it via the MMI I must have been doing something wrong. Need to read the owner's manual I guess. Never knew that was a thing until we bought an '06 325xi for my son. Had to wait like 5 minutes for the car to warm up before it would register. I don't get it.

I usually use high mileage full synthetic 5w30 in my cars. Anything you or others would recommend instead of that?

[StuckAntichris]

Honestly anything that meets the VW 502.00 Spec. Its on the back of the containers. I like Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, Liqui Moly ect. I don't have a preference really. I would say to change the oil every 5000 miles. It would appear that the oil change interval has the most effect on the chain stretch.

For the MMI to register the oil level the engine has to be at operating temp, on a level surface, turned off but ignition on, and about 2 minutes later the level will show up. Not my favorite way of doing it but it's something I guess. I normally check it about once a week after I get home from my drive home from work.

What engine is in it? CPMB or CAED? Essentially you are looking for a metal intake manifold or not. The sticker on the upper timing cover will either have a CPM or CAE code.

[jbrentd]

Honestly anything that meets the VW 502.00 Spec. Its on the back of the containers. I like Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, Liqui Moly ect. I don't have a preference really. I would say to change the oil every 5000 miles. It would appear that the oil change interval has the most effect on the chain stretch.

For the MMI to register the oil level the engine has to be at operating temp, on a level surface, turned off but ignition on, and about 2 minutes later the level will show up. Not my favorite way of doing it but it's something I guess. I normally check it about once a week after I get home from my drive home from work.

What engine is in it? CPMB or CAED? Essentially you are looking for a metal intake manifold or not. The sticker on the upper timing cover will either have a CPM or CAE code.

Couldn’t see a sticker on top or front of the timing over, but definitely a metal intake manifold. Lots left to learn about on these engines.



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[StuckAntichris]

Looks like a CPMB to me, You can run E85 fuel if you want/ a combination of 91 and E85. At 120k I would be thinking about a carbon cleaning job and maybe even taking the camshaft cover off for a reseal. It may sound like a lot of work at first but if you are due for a timing chain, a lot of these things can be taken care of at the same time for not much more cost. Also take a peek under the intake manifold at the water pump. they are known to fail with some regularity. Another item to add to the "while I'm in there" list lol.

Good luck and ask any questions you may have. Most of us dont bite lol

[DrGER]

Couldn’t see a sticker on top or front of the timing over, but definitely a metal intake manifold. ...

I would expect to find the engine and transmission codes printed on the vehicle information sticker (along with a handful of other PR codes), affixed generally to the body under the rear cargo area floor:

[jbrentd]

I would expect to find the engine and transmission codes printed on the vehicle information sticker (along with a handful of other PR codes), affixed generally to the body under the rear cargo area floor:

Thanks, haven't had time to look there yet.

[Theiceman]

id clean up that cam cover so you can tell is youhave leaks down the road, looks like it might be seeping a little already. You can also remove the plug and put an after market dip stick it it if you like ..

[jbrentd]

id clean up that cam cover so you can tell is youhave leaks down the road, looks like it might be seeping a little already. You can also remove the plug and put an after market dip stick it it if you like ..

Yeah, I saw that too. No puddles of oil, but enough on there to collect the dirt and dust. Is the PCV the usual suspect in that area? BTW, I like the location of the PCV compared to other engines I've worked on.

[jbrentd]

Couple small things done this week.

Dipstick from Amazon


I’ve read this one should be accurate. MMI is at max and the dipstick reads above the marks. Will keep an eye on things to see if I have any consumption issues. Also have an oil change planned for this weekend or while I’m off from work the next two weeks.




Phone cradle. I’ve been using this one from pro clip for years. Just have to get a new base when I change vehicles.




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[mc_hotmail]

What engine is in it? CPMB or CAED? Essentially you are looking for a metal intake manifold or not.

I looked up the ElsaWin manual, which shows 2013 allroad 2.0T models having one of these three engine codes: CAEB (8KH56A), CPMA (8KH52A) or CDNC (8KH069 or 8KH06Y).

All these are still the original 155kw/210hp EA888 engine for B8, not yet B8.5 starting from 2014 with 162kw/220hp CPMB (8KH52A -- same platform code).

[StuckAntichris]

Yes those are all the earlier engines for the B8. From my rough understanding it is a tune and a different PCV valve but those more knowledgeable than me will chime in shortly on any other differences.

[jbrentd]

I'm starting to plan for the timing chain job. What's everyone's preferred kit to do the job? Phase angle at -5.5.



Snapped a pic this morning while filling up.

[JLAllroad]

What is your mileage?

BTW I would recommend 5-40 vs 5-30, the turbo adds a ton of heat to the equation.


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[jbrentd]

What is your mileage?

BTW I would recommend 5-40 vs 5-30, the turbo adds a ton of heat to the equation.


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I'm a little over 120k. Thanks for the tip.

[19birel]

Congrats on the Allroad! The Volcano red is a gorgeous, underrated color in my book.

For oil, I feel like it's one of those things that everyone has a favorite they swear by for one reason or another. I like Liqui Moly Synthoil 0W-40, it gets cold where I am so the 0W flows better at cold temps and the thicker 40 oil seems to hold up to the temps better, I've been running it since I got the car at 57k miles (currently at 117k) and it typically doesn't burn any oil between 5k intervals.

As far as the timing chain kit goes, I used ECS's Ultimate Kit (with OEM parts). In addition to that you'll need a new lower timing cover (it gets pretty bent up on removal so good luck getting it to reseal correctly), upper timing cover gasket (the upper cover itself is reusable), and cam magnet gasket. While you're in there be sure to locate your cam bridge screen, it always breaks away from the cam bridge and ends up in an oil passage so you'll want to get that out if you can.

[jbrentd]

Congrats on the Allroad! The Volcano red is a gorgeous, underrated color in my book.

For oil, I feel like it's one of those things that everyone has a favorite they swear by for one reason or another. I like Liqui Moly Synthoil 0W-40, it gets cold where I am so the 0W flows better at cold temps and the thicker 40 oil seems to hold up to the temps better, I've been running it since I got the car at 57k miles (currently at 117k) and it typically doesn't burn any oil between 5k intervals.

As far as the timing chain kit goes, I used ECS's Ultimate Kit (with OEM parts). In addition to that you'll need a new lower timing cover (it gets pretty bent up on removal so good luck getting it to reseal correctly), upper timing cover gasket (the upper cover itself is reusable), and cam magnet gasket. While you're in there be sure to locate your cam bridge screen, it always breaks away from the cam bridge and ends up in an oil passage so you'll want to get that out if you can.

Thanks! Is the cam bridge screen something that's not in most kits?

I need to check the phase angle on my son's A3 too, but would not be surprised if it needs a new timing chain as well. His is at 120k miles also. Does anyone know if the tools needed are the same between the transverse and longitudinal TFSI's?

[19birel]

Thanks! Is the cam bridge screen something that's not in most kits?

I need to check the phase angle on my son's A3 too, but would not be surprised if it needs a new timing chain as well. His is at 120k miles also. Does anyone know if the tools needed are the same between the transverse and longitudinal TFSI's?

The screen isn't in any of the kits, I you were so inclined you'd have to buy a new cam bridge (has the screen already in it) to replace it. That said, many, myself included, do not replace it. The thinking is that the new screen would eventually blow out and get lodged somewhere in the engine like the original. My advice would just be to locate the missing screen and remove it.

For context, here are pics of what I'm referring to

Below is a pic of the cam bridge with the screen missing


Here is where I found the screen in an oil passage


I removed the broken screen from the oil passage then reinstalled the original cam bridge without any screen.