Sunday RANT

[LJS]

I was about to take the Silver Slug out for the last time---get the thing warm, oil change, then putting it to sleep for the Winter.
NO START---crank once-nothing, crank twice-nothing....while cranking the third time I notice no movement of the TACH.
Verified no RPM signal while cranking (Block-1 VCDS)
The damn CPS is only 2-years old an is an OE BOSCH unit.....Had a similar issue with a 2-year old BOSCH O2 sensor this past summer....
ANNOYING---don't know who to "trust" anymore....
Easy fix but pissed off about poor vendor quality.DAMN
PS- It's now snowing like crazy here...NO zoom zoom 'til SPRING!!!!!!!

[q20v]

That sounds frustrating for sure. Especially when you pony up for the OE stuff 😔

[CELison]

My tach doesn't move while cranking. Never has lol.

[RMode]

See my thread you may have other issues, like I did. Same symptoms


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[LJS]

My tach doesn't move while cranking. Never has lol.

Mine barely moves if all is well---have to look real closely.....
RMode---I purchased a new CPS and will pretend I didn't read your message.....

[RMode]

Mine barely moves if all is well---have to look real closely.....
RMode---I purchased a new CPS and will pretend I didn't read your message.....

Good luck!

I ordered one late Friday night too - advance locally had the Bosch in stock. By last night, I cancelled it :) I’ve got a bunch more pictures of what I found on my IG stories.


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[Silverex]

FWIW: The factory wiring in that area takes on a lot of heat and gets damaged often…I’d push the boot back and take a look, issue could be that and not sensors.

[LJS]

Thanks for the input Guys!
The sensor is dead----there's a open between pin-2 and pin-3 on the sensor-The Hall-effect switch isn't hall-effecting....
I also checked the wiring from the sensor plug to the ECU --Pin 108, 82 and 90...all good.
FWIW- I use this heat sleeving on the entire length of the sensor wiring and boot, at the tranny-
https://www.thermotec.com/product/ex...eve-thermo-tec
I'll post an update when I receive the new sensor.

[RMode]

Thanks for the input Guys!
The sensor is dead----there's a open between pin-2 and pin-3 on the sensor-The Hall-effect switch isn't hall-effecting....
I also checked the wiring from the sensor plug to the ECU --Pin 108, 82 and 90...all good.
FWIW- I use this heat sleeving on the entire length of the sensor wiring and boot, at the tranny-
https://www.thermotec.com/product/ex...eve-thermo-tec
I'll post an update when I receive the new sensor.

Awesome

Yes I plan to do a thermo barrier and fire sleeve. I’m not going through this bs again lol. Multiple wires were well done.


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[LJS]

Awesome

Yes I plan to do a thermo barrier and fire sleeve. I’m not going through this bs again lol. Multiple wires were well done.


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I was looking through your build thread and my heart sank when I saw the condition of those wires---DAMN!!!!!!
QUESTION- where are you getting the open barrel pins for the CPS---I want to relocate that connector as it sits so close to the turbo exhaust...
Trying to be proactive here.
PS- I used some 9FT of the heat sleeve during my build and unless you put your nose down at the firewall, by the air-box, behind the Y-pipe and under the coolant reservoir, you can't see any of it.
The only downside to the stuff is the cost....considering what it saves in future headaches it's well worth it.

[LJS]

This pin

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[RMode]

I was looking through your build thread and my heart sank when I saw the condition of those wires---DAMN!!!!!!
QUESTION- where are you getting the open barrel pins for the CPS---I want to relocate that connector as it sits so close to the turbo exhaust...
Trying to be proactive here.
PS- I used some 9FT of the heat sleeve during my build and unless you put your nose down at the firewall, by the air-box, behind the Y-pipe and under the coolant reservoir, you can't see any of it.
The only downside to the stuff is the cost....considering what it saves in future headaches it's well worth it.

1J0-973-723-G

Yep it is expensive, but the way I figure - cheaper than the tow truck was


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[Silverex]

QUESTION- where are you getting the open barrel pins for the CPS---.

The terminals are the common Junior power terminal type. Mouser or similar will have them the cheapest if buying a decent amount or if you need a few https://www.bmotorsports.com/
Is a good spot to purchase from.

FWIW: I finally caved and bought a professional Rennsteig crimper with appropriate dies for JPT, Micro TimerII, and the Ecu terminals. So if you need any crimps done I can make some pigtails. Just LMK I usually always have the terminals in stock along with most connectors.

[LJS]

THANKS for the connector and terminal info----
I made a note for the https://www.bmotorsports.com/ location so I'm not asking stupid questions AGAIN

[MacDaddy]

Thats because Bosch stuff is now made in Chi-nah, gotta specify you want made in germany if its even available.

[cactus_cars]

I would advise to check a lot of other things. Timing errors can often be totally ambiguous when reported by the ecu. I had an 'open or short to plus' error. Ended up being the shitty Chinese made behr coolant reservoir leaking through the level sensor connector and wicking up to the ecu. I know, right? Resulting in corroded pins on the ecu.

Although if you measured open on the sensor then that's likely actually bad.

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[RMode]

Thats because Bosch stuff is now made in Chi-nah, gotta specify you want made in germany if its even available.

It really doesn’t matter ultimately. I replaced the crank sensor (under warranty) on my first S4 when the car had 12k miles on it.


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[LJS]

Thats because Bosch stuff is now made in Chi-nah, gotta specify you want made in germany if its even available.

Replaced the CPS this morning....all good.
Here's the 2 year old defective sensor....
Interesting.....
The replacement Bosch sensor was labeled made in Germany


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[cactus_cars]

Replaced the CPS this morning....all good.
Here's the 2 year old defective senor....
Interesting.....
The replacement Bosch senor was labeled made in Germany


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Interesting. There are also different versions of the sensor. Pre '00 cars (at least for 1.8ts) have a taller and more angled sensor, later cars have a short, straight (connector bit?) and the connector at the firewall is different. I'm still running my original because I couldn't find an OE sensor. Only aftermarket.

Glad you got this resolved.

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[LJS]

PS- decided NOT to relocate the connector as the wiring from the engine harness is shielded and I don't wish to introduce a "noise" issue with the signal

[LJS]

Interesting. There are also different versions of the sensor. Pre '00 cars (at least for 1.8ts) have a taller and more angled sensor, later cars have a short, straight (connector bit?) and the connector at the firewall is different. I'm still running my original because I couldn't find an OE sensor. Only aftermarket.

Glad you got this resolved.

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THANKS-
simple fixes on this platform are rare....

[cactus_cars]

THANKS-
simple fixes on this platform are rare....

Lol. I had a corroded ecu pin causing a crank position sensor error... That took a few weeks to figure out... Not always so lucky.


All thanks to the poorly made-in-china behr coolant tank
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