3D Printed Intake

[context.eax]

Hi
I am designing my own intake part to mate with the APR inlet pipe. I have the filter itself but the price for the filter and this part is way to expensive so I will make this myself. (I don't need it in carbon fiber)

This is the part I am referring to:


Here is an early POC and is missing some small parts.


Does anyone have a picture of this part taken from above that they can share. All images I have is from an angle and it would really help to look at an image taken from above looking down on this part.
I will be posting the final part (when I know it fits) on Thingiverse for everyone else to print.

The price for printing this in Aluminum with a wall thickness of 1.3mm is ~$160 + shipping.
If printed in Carbon fiber FDM Nylon (20% infill) with wall thickness of 2.5mm is ~$80 + shipping.
Temp for Carbon fiber FDM Nylon is rated at:
HDT (0.45 MPa) 120 - 215°C
HDT (1.8 MPa) 143 - 196°C
So should also withstand engine bay temps I hope.

(Prices are taken from Craftcloud)

Anyone have experience with 3D printing car parts and have some comments on this?

[myrder]

Hi
I am designing my own intake part to mate with the APR inlet pipe. I have the filter itself but the price for the filter and this part is way to expensive so I will make this myself. (I don't need it in carbon fiber)

This is the part I am referring to:


Here is an early POC and is missing some small parts.


Does anyone have a picture of this part taken from above that they can share. All images I have is from an angle and it would really help to look at an image taken from above looking down on this part.
I will be posting the final part (when I know it fits) on Thingiverse for everyone else to print.

The price for printing this in Aluminum with a wall thickness of 1.3mm is ~$160 + shipping.
If printed in Carbon fiber FDM Nylon (20% infill) with wall thickness of 2.5mm is ~$80 + shipping.
Temp for Carbon fiber FDM Nylon is rated at:
HDT (0.45 MPa) 120 - 215°C
HDT (1.8 MPa) 143 - 196°C
So should also withstand engine bay temps I hope.

(Prices are taken from Craftcloud)

Anyone have experience with 3D printing car parts and have some comments on this?

nice work, the aluminum will work fine, the carbon fiber FDM Nylon I bet will have a hard time surviving. It's too close to the turbo and there is a lot of heat back there.

[context.eax]

nice work, the aluminum will work fine, the carbon fiber FDM Nylon I bet will have a hard time surviving. It's too close to the turbo and there is a lot of heat back there.

Yes Alu is probably the best option here but I found this video where he is testing Carbon Fiber Nylon:



So it should withstand like 175 degree C (~340F). I could also print it with even thicker walls like 5-6mm.

But the question is. How hot will it get around this part.
The stock part is some kind of plastic and works fine but I have no clue what max temp it is design for.

[JRYtheS4]

Yes Alu is probably the best option here but I found this video where he is testing Carbon Fiber Nylon:



So it should withstand like 175 degree C (~340F). I could also print it with even thicker walls like 5-6mm.

But the question is. How hot will it get around this part.
The stock part is some kind of plastic and works fine but I have no clue what max temp it is design for.

More than likely if you take off your original intake part it will have a marking somewhere on it, usually stamped near the part number in a hidden location. It will tell you what material it is and then you can look it up on matweb.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[TToysRuS]

Yes Alu is probably the best option here but I found this video where he is testing Carbon Fiber Nylon:



So it should withstand like 175 degree C (~340F). I could also print it with even thicker walls like 5-6mm.

But the question is. How hot will it get around this part.
The stock part is some kind of plastic and works fine but I have no clue what max temp it is design for.

It isnt just instantaneous heat that you need to worry about. Its heat cycling coupled with vibration and torsion added in that kills plastic and CF. No chance I'd ever run carbon on an intake pipe over a turbo. Just do aluminum and be done with it IMO

[context.eax]

It isnt just instantaneous heat that you need to worry about. Its heat cycling coupled with vibration and torsion added in that kills plastic and CF. No chance I'd ever run carbon on an intake pipe over a turbo. Just do aluminum and be done with it IMO

You are referring to 3d printed carbon or carbon in general coz the APR inlet pipe is carbon fiber?

[context.eax]

Its taking shape:

[sleepy_rs3]

You are referring to 3d printed carbon or carbon in general coz the APR inlet pipe is carbon fiber?

I had the carbon fiber APR intake pipe and it cracked/melted near the turbo inlet. I now run an aluminum 4" intake pipe and dont have to worry about any of that.

[context.eax]

I had the carbon fiber APR intake pipe and it cracked/melted near the turbo inlet. I now run an aluminum 4" intake pipe and dont have to worry about any of that.

How much did you have to pay for that alu inlet pipe? Stock pipe is also in some kind of metal and I always wondered why all upgraded part is in carbon fiber.
Perhaps I also should design the pip and see how much it will cost to 3D print it in alu.
The elbow + pipe is pretty expensive so perhaps it will be cheaper to 3D print it and only buy the elbow. I also see some is using a silicon elbow (or it looks like some sort of silicon) and perhaps a silicon elbow + 3D printed parts could be a low cost / lower cost solution?

[sleepy_rs3]

How much did you have to pay for that alu inlet pipe? Stock pipe is also in some kind of metal and I always wondered why all upgraded part is in carbon fiber.
Perhaps I also should design the pip and see how much it will cost to 3D print it in alu.
The elbow + pipe is pretty expensive so perhaps it will be cheaper to 3D print it and only buy the elbow. I also see some is using a silicon elbow (or it looks like some sort of silicon) and perhaps a silicon elbow + 3D printed parts could be a low cost / lower cost solution?

It's just the Unitronic 4" turbo inlet paired with he CTS Turbo 4" aluminum pipe to stock airbox (I also added the 034 heat shield FWIW). No custom parts, although I bet you could get a custom part to connect to the aluminum pipe for the actual air filter portion...which is far enough away from the turbo that there is less risk of damage from heat.

[context.eax]

It's just the Unitronic 4" turbo inlet paired with he CTS Turbo 4" aluminum pipe to stock airbox (I also added the 034 heat shield FWIW). No custom parts, although I bet you could get a custom part to connect to the aluminum pipe for the actual air filter portion...which is far enough away from the turbo that there is less risk of damage from heat.

If you have the stock air box then check out this chart:


Both cars are stage 1 running on 98 RON but my friend got a cold air intake and I am using the stock air box with the APR elbow + pipe. I have a K&N filter in the stock box.
This is WOT from low RPM and you can see that my car stops at 390g/s while his car sucks all the way up to ~420g/s :)
This could of course be related to something else but I want to test my car with a open filter solution to see if I can suck in more air on top and since I already have the APR parts I went with the APR filter.
I know the APR intake will suck in hot air from the engine bay but the temp here in my country is pretty low so hopefully it will work better compared to the stock box.

[JRYtheS4]

I'd be worried about 3D printed parts holding up in general but if someone else is willing to try it, I'll subscribe! Even aluminum is iffy to me unless it were cast as one part. I'd have to do a study on it but thinking about it I'd at least want to increase the wall thickness over a stock or cast aluminum part.

Making your own stuff is cool but sometimes it's better to pay someone else who's already done the engineering. Sure the parts cost might be cheaper but you're not accounting for your time invested, especially if your first revision is a failure.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[TToysRuS]

You are referring to 3d printed carbon or carbon in general coz the APR inlet pipe is carbon fiber?

Plenty of issues with name brand carbon intakes too. Delaminated carbon from Eventuri going into a turbo inlet, APR carbon cracking due to heat/stress, etc. Search around, I did and convinced myself readily not to buy a carbon intake.

[Alex D]

I had the carbon fiber APR intake pipe and it cracked/melted near the turbo inlet. I now run an aluminum 4" intake pipe and dont have to worry about any of that.

I also replaced mine with a aluminum 4” intake pipe.

[ZTTRS]

If you have the stock air box then check out this chart:


Both cars are stage 1 running on 98 RON but my friend got a cold air intake and I am using the stock air box with the APR elbow + pipe. I have a K&N filter in the stock box.
This is WOT from low RPM and you can see that my car stops at 390g/s while his car sucks all the way up to ~420g/s :)
This could of course be related to something else but I want to test my car with a open filter solution to see if I can suck in more air on top and since I already have the APR parts I went with the APR filter.
I know the APR intake will suck in hot air from the engine bay but the temp here in my country is pretty low so hopefully it will work better compared to the stock box.

so you have an inlet and intake pipe and all he has is the CAI? I always kept hearing the inlet was the most restrictive part of the induction system>>?

[ZTTRS]

which one did you go with? thanks

[tegxsi]

I'm curious how a stock modified air box performs. I know some remove the flapper inside or add cutout for better breathing.

[sleepy_rs3]

I'm also interested to know - what size inlet with the stock airbox? 3" or 4"? Also is your friend running the CAI with stock inlet?

[context.eax]

which one did you go with? thanks

I am still in the designing phase and I have only printed a cross section of the piece.



When I am satisfied whit this I will print the whole part in PLA and test fit it. When everything looks good I will order the carbon part or the alu part. I have not decided yet which filament I will go for.
I need to do more research before I decide.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[context.eax]

I'm also interested to know - what size inlet with the stock airbox? 3" or 4"? Also is your friend running the CAI with stock inlet?

I have the 4” APR elbow and pipe connected to the stock air box using a K&N panel filter.

My friend got the whole thing from Eventuri. That is a 4” elbow + pipe and the rest of this intake.
Or at least I believe it is a 4” elbow. I did not measure it so cant know for sure.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[context.eax]

I'm curious how a stock modified air box performs. I know some remove the flapper inside or add cutout for better breathing.

I have not modified my stock air box. I only removed the stock filter and inserted the K&N panel filter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TToysRuS]

I have the 4” APR elbow and pipe connected to the stock air box using a K&N panel filter.

My friend got the whole thing from Eventuri. That is a 4” elbow + pipe and the rest of this intake.
Or at least I believe it is a 4” elbow. I did not measure it so cant know for sure.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do these cars have a MAF or other airflow sensor in the airbox or tubing?

[ZTTRS]

No MAF---


the full evanturi intake + inlet makes more sense

I plan on adding an intake pipe. Currently running a drop in filter, and gutted intake snorkel air guide...whatever its called

[context.eax]

Here is a prototype I printed. I split it in two to avoid printing support.
It is way to cold here to go out and test fit so will have to wait until temp goes above zero.

Part was printed on two delta printers at 150mm/s with a layer height of 0.3mm. Print time was about 3hrs.
The two holes I need to measure once I have the parts removed from car so they are there only for testing angle etc.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TToysRuS]

Its taking shape:

Do you mind sharing where you are getting quotes to "print" the parts in aluminum from? I am messing around with Fusion 360 now as well for fun. Thanks in advance.

[context.eax]

Do you mind sharing where you are getting quotes to "print" the parts in aluminum from? I am messing around with Fusion 360 now as well for fun. Thanks in advance.

https://craftcloud3d.com/upload

[TToysRuS]

https://craftcloud3d.com/upload

Cheers thanks. I am having some fun messing around in Fusion 360 myself. You inspired me :)

[context.eax]

Ambient temp climbed above 10C so I could do a test mount without freezing to death.







So it kind of looks ok but there is a design flaw I did not noticed before I test mounted it.

The center of the 6" hole is not centered with the 4" hole shown in this picture so the filter will now hit the hood when closed.
I cant believe I missed this :)



Printing this whole piece including the mount point for the two small hoses will increase the complexity so perhaps I will try to keep these part shown in the picture and re design it from there.
And printing costs will also drop a bit.
But I will need a small 3.6" silicon hose to mate the 3D printed part and the stock air box part

[S3DUDE]

I have been saying it for decades..literally. When it comes to intakes and piping whether is for air intakes or exhaust you will make the same power with a basic cheap ABS injection molded plastic as you would on a $2000 carbon fiber piping like Venturi or others. on the exhaust is pretty much the same thing, flow is flow but some materials are nicer and lighter but you can still get mandrel bent raw metal to do the job for a very reasonable price. If I have the money to blow I would go with titanium no questions asked but you can also save thousands and go with a lesser tier metal piping and still do the job and still save money.

The 3D printing is awesome, it combines functionality and affordability. My only concern would be finding a material that can withstand the heat cycles inside the engine bay as well as enduring the potencial risk of pitting, chipping, etc. I love ABS molding plastic, it is tough as nails and cheap to make, hence every manufacturer in the planet uses it for mass production. Carbon fiber is nice to stare but zero benefits over ABS molding. plastic.

[context.eax]

I was first planning on using Aluminum but that is a bit expensive solution.

Glass-Filled Nylon also seems to handle engine bay temps:
Tensile strength : 30 - 48 MPa
Tensile modulus : 2997 - 4068 MPa
Tensile elongation : 2 - 8%
Flexural strength : 37 - 73 MPa
Flexural modulus : 2600 - 3106 MPa
HDT (0.45 MPa) : 157 - 179°C

But I have not decided yet.
Glass-Filled Nylon price is ~$85 (2mm wall thickness)
Aluminum is ~$300 (2mm wall thickness))

Glass-Filled nylon will be SLS printed.
I will of course increase wall thickness if I go for nylon. Perhaps 4-6mm ish.

[JRYtheS4]

Look at some of the mold markings on underhood plastic parts. It tells you what type of plastic and if they gf reinforcement etc. That will tell you for certain what is safe and what isn't.
If you still have your stock airbox that would be the ticket because you could just use a 3d print material that meets or exceeds what Audi engineers chose.
Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[TToysRuS]

Would be nice to be able to replicate the OEM inlet with full dimpling etc for max flow.

[context.eax]

Now it fit's under the hood :)

To be able to make it like this I used "projection" and "intersection curve" in Fusion 360.
Look that up on YT if you want to try it out yourself.

There is actually plenty of room there so no need to be that accurate.

[TToysRuS]

I would love to replicate the OEM turbo inlet but in metal so I could have it printed in aluminum, ceramic coated and get some more whoosh going. Not changing the stock airbox though, stock tune.

[context.eax]

I redesigned it to mate with the 3.6" APR "converter hose" that goes from 4" to 3.6" and used for the stock air box.
I added some duck tape to it and did a quick test logging MAF.
The curve (green APR filter) looks exactly like when using K&N + stock air box except this time I went higher in the RPM range so not a fair comparison.
So I gained nothing except for this stupid extra air suck sound which I am no big fan of.

I also noticed that using the lower part of the stock air box as a mount point worked just fine. I am now thinking of using it and slightly modify it so I can use it permanently.
Printing a lid to it might also solve the sound issue.
(Dump valve hose is not yet connected)







After the test I parked the car and opened the hood so it should cool down faster. The PLA 3D printed part was holding just fine and I could not se any kind of distortion etc.
(I will however not use this PLA part. This was only for a quick test run)

[Rod Paine]

Interesting project and very good photo work. Any idea as to what it is
doing for HP via some dyno runs? Our 2019 RS 3 now at 46,420 miles
total of which 33,416 miles have been fast country back road runs
made 10am-2pm Tues, Weds, and Thurs only, as weather permits.
These times are ideal as few other vehicles are on these roads then.

Switched to 18 inch Neuspeed RSe10 18x8.5 and 245/40/18 tires
to deal with our back road runs, which killed the factory 235/35/19
within 3 days use! Truly a great vehicle after these changes.
-Rod

[JRYtheS4]

I redesigned it to mate with the 3.6" APR "converter hose" that goes from 4" to 3.6" and used for the stock air box.
I added some duck tape to it and did a quick test logging MAF.
The curve (green APR filter) looks exactly like when using K&N + stock air box except this time I went higher in the RPM range so not a fair comparison.
So I gained nothing except for this stupid extra air suck sound which I am no big fan of.

I also noticed that using the lower part of the stock air box as a mount point worked just fine. I am now thinking of using it and slightly modify it so I can use it permanently.
Printing a lid to it might also solve the sound issue.
(Dump valve hose is not yet connected)







After the test I parked the car and opened the hood so it should cool down faster. The PLA 3D printed part was holding just fine and I could not se any kind of distortion etc.
(I will however not use this PLA part. This was only for a quick test run)

Good on you for doing some science! At the very least, a custom intake will become a cool conversation piece at the meet

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[context.eax]

Did another test and more or less same result.
This time I switched to S after some time so car could upshift when hitting redline.
I cant remember seen values above 400 when using the stock air box so perhaps ... hmm...

IAT (not shown) stayed around 22C over the whole run. (Yes, I have an upgraded IC)

But this is the first time I see this tune over boost like this (Unitronic Stage 1+). When using stock air box it usually hit target boost pretty accurate.
Is this the ECU that needs to adapt?
(I am not to high above sea level so subtract ~1000mbar from the shown values)

[context.eax]

I think I have something ready for printing now :)
Both the 4" and the 3.6" version is test printed in PLA and fits ok.
Wall thickness as shown on pictures are 1.6mm and designed for printing in Aluminum.
I will share both 1.6mm and 3mm on Thingy when I have received and tested the alu version.
For the mounting bracket I will print that in glass-filled nylon coz no need to have that in alu.

But I have not decided yet if I should go for the 4" or the 3.6". I really like that the 4 to 3.6" hose converter got this flex part and will probably give more room for the engine to move?
What do you think? Will the 3.6" do the job or be too restrictive? :)
I will probably sleep better at night if I go for the 4" version..
I find it a bit strange that the APR 4" hose has no flex but I guess that it will hold even when engine start moving. Anyone have had any problems with this solution?

4" Version:







3.6" version:





Mounting bracket for the stock lower part of the air box:



If everything works out I might also make a lid for it to prevent some of the heat from the turbo to be sucked in and to perhaps lower the sound a bit. It is pretty loud now and for anyone that want this sound you should really consider this solution (The solution from APR if you are happy to pay the price of course)

[context.eax]

I printed the part in PETG and did some testing. After driving some time to get the engine up to temp I parked it in the garage with the hood closed and let the part cook under there for some time. When I did this same test with the PLA printed part it deformed coz of the heat. But to my surprise the PETG part did not deform at all and I could barely hold my hand on it before it felt uncomfortable coz of the heat.
PLA should withstand up to 60C and PETG should withstand 80C so I think printing it in ABS (should hold ~100C) would be more that sufficient.
I have already sent it to Craftcloud to be printed in aluminum but I think aluminum is a bit overkill when I saw the result of PETG.

With this open filter I did a 1/4 mile test and I have never gone this fast before. I once did a 11.0 but that was with an empty fuel tank. Today it was over 1/2 a tank.
So perhaps using the stock air box combined with a K&N filter is not the best solution at all?

screen capture

0-60mph was 3.08 sec and 0-60mph with 1 foot was 2.77 sec.

Oh and car is Stage 1+ 98Ron Unitronic